[redmosquito1]

Y

Now my question is my numbers for the middle cylinder 770. The first and third cylinders jump around a bit. The first goes from 770-780 where the third jumps from 760-770. To save myself having to take this all apart and tinker with it, is that close enough to where I won't need to balance them or should I?

You are close, unless there is a noticeable roughness on idle I wouldn't be worried. You can get them to settle out at the same value if you spend enough time with it, I did with mine but after a few miles they would act just like yours so I said f-it.

 

[Harb67]

Just gave this a first try and it's a lot harder than I expected. Currently the bike is back in the air conditioning to cool down - I put so much time into it that the temperature gauge maxed out (its 100F outside too, that cant be helping) and I believe I killed the battery as the starter motor gets about one or two crank out before it gives up.

Does anyone have any sage advice that may help? I'm using TuneECU and the best I can do is get cyl 1 and 2 to match up with 3 way, way off. The TuneECU readings seem to have a very loose connection to what I'm doing to the adjustment screws, at best. Am I correct in my assumption that in TuneECU, the top gauge is the left cylinder (1), the middle is the center cylinder (2), and the bottom gauge is the right cylinder (3)? Sounds stupid yes, but even when focusing only on one screw at a time it's hard to tell exactly what effects my adjustments are having.

I've tried screwing both in to the point where there is no gap between the two metal bits that the springs press against and going from there (this had the fun effect of jacking the idle up to about 4k - that was a surprise when i turned it on) but that didn't help.

*edit*

After recharging the battery and letting the bike completely cool off, and then reattacking the throttle bodies with copious amounts of patience, it's finally balanced and running well. What a PITA.

 

[Knolly]

So I'm going to do this pretty soon and wanted to make sure I understood something, so pardon my newb question. Is the goal simply to make all of the numbers be the same? Or is there a certain number you want them all to be? So is it "better" if they're all 700 vs all 750?

 

[pokeyjoe]

You want them all the same, but you don't get to pick a number. The center value is not adjustable - you just make the others match.

 

[Knolly]

OOOOH well that makes plenty of sense haha, I guess I didn't grasp that from reading through, thanks!

 

[titanium]

Hooked Tune ECU up to my bike this morning and noticed this, maybe this is what's causing some of the engine buzzing. How bad is it to be this far out of spec? 2 and 3 sync up perfectly but 1 is about 30-20 off, am I shooting for a specific number for my 09 Street triple?

 

[Bamboo671]

I don't remember what the tolerance was. It might be stated in the thread here but you'd have to go through all 9 pages...unless someone pipes up. I thought within 10-20 was a decent tolerance.

 

[pokeyjoe]

Hooked Tune ECU up to my bike this morning and noticed this, maybe this is what's causing some of the engine buzzing. How bad is it to be this far out of spec? 2 and 3 sync up perfectly but 1 is about 30-20 off, am I shooting for a specific number for my 09 Street triple?

No specific number - match 1 and 3 to number 2. As soon as you come off 710, the other numbers will change. They will probably drop as the idle drops a little. Take your time, be patient.

 

[titanium]

No specific number - match 1 and 3 to number 2. As soon as you come off 710, the other numbers will change. They will probably drop as the idle drops a little. Take your time, be patient.

Sorry to keep asking newbie questions but does the vac reading matter beyond idle? Would this effect the way the bike is getting fuel beyond low rpm/load usage?

 

[pokeyjoe]

Sorry to keep asking newbie questions but does the vac reading matter beyond idle? Would this effect the way the bike is getting fuel beyond low rpm/load usage?

I had my throttle bodies off last night and can confirm that your balance adjustments effect the whole RPM range. Everything moves when you open the throttle - the adjustment mechanism and all.

Adjusting the TPS sensor is a PITA, btw....

 

[titanium]

I had my throttle bodies off last night and can confirm that your balance adjustments effect the whole RPM range. Everything moves when you open the throttle - the adjustment mechanism and all.

Adjusting the TPS sensor is a PITA, btw....

Thanks, I had that confirmed by some others too so last night I pulled the tank and airbox off. Tonight I'm going to get the tank suspended or propped up and start adjusting, hopefully it wont take too long.

 

[NewShockerGuy]

So that I understand you are actually cranking the engine ON IE: firing the bike up and running while you are doing this as per the instructions? Or does the bike have ti simply be in the "on" position but not fired up to balance the throttle bodies?

I've read two different things where the bike doesn't have to be fired up to balance them, simply the bike is only in the on electrical position, but this how to shows that it's cranking the bike...

Thanks
-Nigel

 

[Lemonfresh]

The bike has to be running to balance the throttle bodies.

Balancing the throttle bodies is adjusting the butterfly openings on each throttle body so that each cylinder is pulling the same vacuum at idle. If you tried to balance the throttle bodies without the engine running, you would get a reading of 0 hPa on all three cylinders and nothing would be accomplished.

 

[sparxwillfli]

I don't remember what the tolerance was. It might be stated in the thread here but you'd have to go through all 9 pages...unless someone pipes up. I thought within 10-20 was a decent tolerance.

Someone earlier said difference of 20 is too much. That 7.5 is the magic number.

 

[Bamboo671]

Bit of a thread revival but not worthy of a new thread.

Has anyone actually balanced their throttle bodies on a 2013+ using the Dealer Tool software? I'm aware and know how to do it with the previous gens but the set of injectors (the ones on the top of the airbox) concern me. What were the steps you took to get to the throttle bodies and how did you do it with the first three injectors being on the top of the air box?

 

[chielmi]

Excellent how to! At the moment I've only checked the values for the three cylinders, using TuneEdit. The values vary a little, most of the time there is about 20 difference between cylinder 1 and 3.

The service manual only mentions using the Triumph diagnostics tool. This tool shows immediately if values need to be adjusted.
Am I right that the Triumph dealer would balance the throttle bodies when there is a difference of 20 (x10 hPa)? Or would the Triumph diagnostic tool see a difference of 20 as withing normal range?

Thanks for your advice!