Standard disclaimer applies. Don't blame me for messing your bike up, take it to a shop if you don't trust yourself. I took some of the pictures out of order, so ignore the fact that the gas tank is attached after I removed it and removed after I attached it. If you adjust the screw on the middle cylinder you will mess your bike up bad. Read the Triumph service manual to see which screws to adjust.
Tools needed:
1. Tuneboy Cable (can be borrowed, you don't need to edit the tune)
2. Way to prop up gas tank
3. Metric Hex Keys
4. Metric Socket Set
5. Laptop
6. Rear Stand (optional, but helps keep bike level so the laptop can balance on the passenger seat... be careful with the laptop balancing like this)
7. Stubby #2 Phillips Screwdriver
The instructions in the Triumph repair manual call for more tools than required and don't explain properly how to hook up lines and hose after the airbox is removed to get a proper reading from the tool. I don't think it would even work right with the Triumph Diagnostic Tool. They say to get extension wires and hoses (~$300) to completely remove the tank and have adequate room to adjust the screws. You don't need these hoses and wires if you do it my way.
Step 1: Follow the manual to remove the gas tank and airbox.
A properly placed ball-joint-remover-tool may help prop the gas tank while you unplug the wires and pull the hoses.
Drape the top of the airbox over the side of the bike, as having the ECU plugged in aids in running the motorcycle during the balance.
Like so...
This plug needs to be plugged in again before you balance the throttle bodies or the Tuneboy will read all zeros for MAP. Unplug it for the time being to remove the rest of the airbox.
Remove those plastic thingies.
These hoses (one on each side) should be the only things left unhooked while you run the bike to adjust the throttle bodies.
Remove this plug from the airbox (I used a standard screwdriver since I didn't have a torx handy) and fit it back to the bike where it was plugged in.
Like so...
Refit the gas tank and find a way to prop it up out of the way, without putting too much stress on the fuel line and wires. Plug everything back in.
I used a ratchet type strap to the ceiling of the garage, you could also have a friend hold it, but it might be uncomfortable. Be creative. Plug the Tuneboy in and follow the instructions to get it running properly. Go though a few tests to make sure everything is hooked up and the PC is communicating properly to the bike. Start the bike up and see that on the "Test" page you are getting readings for each cylinder. If you are seeing zero for the cylinders, you messed something up. Check all the hoses and plugs and try again. If it looks good, you're ready to tweak the screws now.
Screws.
Adjust them slowly and check the screen. Blip the throttle to make sure everything is settled.
I was able to get them exactly the same using this page of the Tuneboy. The other page has too much data being processed and is kind of laggy. The values vary by 7.5 rounding down. While I was adjusting I saw 592, 600, 607, and 615. When I was happy the values would still jump up to 607 for a fraction of a second, but usually with two cylinders at a time. I think if you can get them all within 7 you should be happy, but it wasn't too hard to get them all equal. When you are happy, put the bike back together and clear the CEL's that may have occured from running the bike without the airbox.
Tools needed:
1. Tuneboy Cable (can be borrowed, you don't need to edit the tune)
2. Way to prop up gas tank
3. Metric Hex Keys
4. Metric Socket Set
5. Laptop
6. Rear Stand (optional, but helps keep bike level so the laptop can balance on the passenger seat... be careful with the laptop balancing like this)
7. Stubby #2 Phillips Screwdriver
The instructions in the Triumph repair manual call for more tools than required and don't explain properly how to hook up lines and hose after the airbox is removed to get a proper reading from the tool. I don't think it would even work right with the Triumph Diagnostic Tool. They say to get extension wires and hoses (~$300) to completely remove the tank and have adequate room to adjust the screws. You don't need these hoses and wires if you do it my way.
Step 1: Follow the manual to remove the gas tank and airbox.
A properly placed ball-joint-remover-tool may help prop the gas tank while you unplug the wires and pull the hoses.
Drape the top of the airbox over the side of the bike, as having the ECU plugged in aids in running the motorcycle during the balance.
Like so...
This plug needs to be plugged in again before you balance the throttle bodies or the Tuneboy will read all zeros for MAP. Unplug it for the time being to remove the rest of the airbox.
Remove those plastic thingies.
These hoses (one on each side) should be the only things left unhooked while you run the bike to adjust the throttle bodies.
Remove this plug from the airbox (I used a standard screwdriver since I didn't have a torx handy) and fit it back to the bike where it was plugged in.
Like so...
Refit the gas tank and find a way to prop it up out of the way, without putting too much stress on the fuel line and wires. Plug everything back in.
I used a ratchet type strap to the ceiling of the garage, you could also have a friend hold it, but it might be uncomfortable. Be creative. Plug the Tuneboy in and follow the instructions to get it running properly. Go though a few tests to make sure everything is hooked up and the PC is communicating properly to the bike. Start the bike up and see that on the "Test" page you are getting readings for each cylinder. If you are seeing zero for the cylinders, you messed something up. Check all the hoses and plugs and try again. If it looks good, you're ready to tweak the screws now.
Screws.
Adjust them slowly and check the screen. Blip the throttle to make sure everything is settled.

I was able to get them exactly the same using this page of the Tuneboy. The other page has too much data being processed and is kind of laggy. The values vary by 7.5 rounding down. While I was adjusting I saw 592, 600, 607, and 615. When I was happy the values would still jump up to 607 for a fraction of a second, but usually with two cylinders at a time. I think if you can get them all within 7 you should be happy, but it wasn't too hard to get them all equal. When you are happy, put the bike back together and clear the CEL's that may have occured from running the bike without the airbox.