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you were right vaccum was unplugged. Got it goin again, but wouldnt ya know it? AS soon as it was idliong right tank took a drop... i caught it before it tore EVERYthing out and tore the fuel pump pickip out of it. Sad sad day for me today... I bought a fuel pump from some guy in buckley wa on ebay for 100 bucks, and i bout color rite paint along with clear coat off of color rite. So well be back and runnin again in no time.
 
checked all my hoses didnt see any loose vaccum hoses, but why would it idle high if the ism was stripped? wouldnt it idle low?
it will idle high if you have the vacuum unplugged, if you lose the ISM ,YOU will be able to adjust the idle to your liking and prevent future stalling problems when that ISM decides to take a shit.

also my tune ecu read off all the numbers on the throttle bodies wouldnt they be inconsistant and jump around or not even show up if i had a vaccum leak of some sort?
not necessarily, you may get a CEL but then again you may not.

you were right vaccum was unplugged. Got it goin again, but wouldnt ya know it? AS soon as it was idliong right tank took a drop... i caught it before it tore EVERYthing out and tore the fuel pump pickip out of it. Sad sad day for me today... I bought a fuel pump from some guy in buckley wa on ebay for 100 bucks, and i bout color rite paint along with clear coat off of color rite. So well be back and runnin again in no time.
cool glad you got it fixed, which hose/hoses was it? In the T split under the injector connectors? Sucks about your fuel pump.

L8r bro:thumbup:
 
Damn dude I'm guessing this is one service you wish you hadn't started.

Sorry to hear about the drop though, just a heads up for you not sure which color your bike is but if it's graphite and you are getting the rattle can it is really tough to get a good color match and keep the decals. Not sure where the mess up is but if you have to blend in to the logos it's best to order a new one and remove the other one to get the best result.

I recently fixed both my fairings and it came out ok but around the decal where I tried to tape it off you can definitely tell a difference. If I wasn't so damn cheap and I didn't have intentions to replace the whole fairing for street and keep the messed up ones for track days in the future, I would have taken the decals off and feathered the paint in. Everywhere else it is hard to tell the blend.

Also Colorite paint says there standard clear isn't recommended for areas highly likely to come into contact with gas as it will strip it. They have a clear that can be used in gas areas but you have to buy the aerosol adapter for it.

All in all though the results were pretty good.
 
ok turned out, vaccum hose on splitters, then it turned out that wasnt the problem! The problem was, where the throttle body linkage meets the idle stepper motor was NOT touching, even after properly adjusting the ism, so after err, carefull twisting the throttle i realized i could make it twist back and make it idle wherever the hell i wanted to (not below 1300 though because i dont want to kill the damn ism) so i took apart the twist throttle and there was a burr on the plastic that the cable wraps around, witch was catching somewhere and would not let it reset itself right as well as having the cable out of adjustment. I deburred that plastic piece as best as i can but now i am going to buy a new throttle assembly (grumble, bitch and moan) as well as take off the tank and airbox again to get to throttle cable (fuckin yippy) and repaint the tank (got colorite graphite with clear coat in the little tiny bottles) sigh winter is coming and ill have nothing better to do.Throttles synced out to 730 across the board. :thumbup:
 
took it on a quick 170 miles cruise the other day, opened her up real good and when i wentto let it idle it was idling around... 500-800 rpm. Im guessing the ism took a shit on me and now i have to fix that. Also my lights were flickering and giving me hell, i pulled over and looked to see if the r/r was toast and my battery connector bolts were loose, so i tightened those up and on my merry way i went. Next i want to upgrade the r/r and lights but i fear problems if i dont do a good wire up job. Also i bought a manual idler to replace the stupid ass ism. Also i have to check the valves next and i believe i got a slight oil leak from the stator/engine case cover.. This motorcycle is starting to give me nothing but problems, partially due to my inexperience and partially due to the douschebag that didnt do ANY maintence on it before i got it. Fucking loser.
 
Adjustment done with Tune ECU

I just used Tune ECU & this "how to" to adjust my throttle bodies. A great resource the "How To's" are and an awesome program Tune ECU is!
 
Well I took some money that I had made selling a few items that having been sitting around for a while and bought a Tune Boy kit. With my 6k check needing to be done this spring I figured doing it myself would be a good idea. I downloaded the Tune Boy software just to take a look at it and was blown away by the amount of diagnostic information it can provide. I look forward to giving it a shot. Thanks for the right up.
 
Um, not to pop your bubble but you pretty much wasted your money by spending the $400 or so on Tuneboy. The TunECU program does the same thing and all you have to spend is a few bucks to get the able off Ebay. Although there is the support that you will get from the guys at Tuneboy but the support here for TunECU is great also!
 
Just a little tip for the Street Triple owners who are going to do this. The fall detection sensor is located on the top of the air box cover. It is pretty obvious what it is when you look at it, a little box with the word UP on it. Just make sure and remove it from the air box cover and place it in a some what level position before you fire up the bike.
 
Can one of you guys who have purchased the cable required for these types of services and diagnostics for use with TuneECU please provide a part number or name of the cable? I'd like to check on ebay for one and download the free Tune ECU software. I do not own a laptop but I want to get the program and cable now (before the program stops being $free.99) so that way when I finally do get a laptop I can do some ofthese things.
 
Can one of you guys who have purchased the cable required for these types of services and diagnostics for use with TuneECU please provide a part number or name of the cable? I'd like to check on ebay for one and download the free Tune ECU software. I do not own a laptop but I want to get the program and cable now (before the program stops being $free.99) so that way when I finally do get a laptop I can do some ofthese things.
Amazon.com: OBD2 OBD II Diagnostic USB Cable KKL409.1 VAG-COM 409: Electronics
 
when i tried to do this on my bike it was too jumpy. not sure if its supposed to stay still or if adjusting it will make it stay still. im guessing that tuneEcu can get the job done, correct?
 
Connected my 675 to TuneECU to sync the throttle bodies.
Then I started the bike and the three smalls dashboards where showing 810 and sometimes 820.

Is this the correct way to sync to throttle bodies?

See this picture: the three little dashboards

"In this mode, only 3 small dials of the dashboard are active, providing the value of the vacuum intake (Manifold Absolute Pressure) of the corresponding cylinder (Keihin only), thus providing reference values for syncronising butterfly valve (throttle) opening."

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Double check before I install everything back on :)
 
I read on British Customs that the Tuneboy isn't working for 2010+ models. Can anyone confirm TuneECU works?
I would check out the "All things tuning" thread and see if anyone there is having issues with TunECU. I think they are doing fine.
 
Connected my 675 to TuneECU to sync the throttle bodies.
Then I started the bike and the three smalls dashboards where showing 810 and sometimes 820.

Is this the correct way to sync to throttle bodies?

See this picture: the three little dashboards

"In this mode, only 3 small dials of the dashboard are active, providing the value of the vacuum intake (Manifold Absolute Pressure) of the corresponding cylinder (Keihin only), thus providing reference values for syncronising butterfly valve (throttle) opening."

Image


Double check before I install everything back on :)
Yes that is the correct screen to balance the TBs. The middle cylinder is not adjustable so adjust to that number.

Now my question is my numbers for the middle cylinder 770. The first and third cylinders jump around a bit. The first goes from 770-780 where the third jumps from 760-770. To save myself having to take this all apart and tinker with it, is that close enough to where I won't need to balance them or should I?
 
Balanced with TuneECU

It was time for a new airfilter so I thought I would balance the throttle bodies whilst I was in there. Found that the left cylinder was reading 750 and the other two 770. I didn't fancy having the tank hanging up with a strap so decided to go the OEM route. First I purchased the extension lead from Triumph for ÂŁ17 (pn T3880123) I then found that the fuel hose extension came as part of the Fuel Pressure Gauge set (pn T3880001) which is ÂŁ137. I knew I could make my own so after a bit of searching a matching male/female quick release connector 8mm was found on eBay for ÂŁ7 and a 1 meter length of fuel hose obtained from an auto parts shop for ÂŁ5. As for the airfilter, I had ordered a ÂŁ30 one from a well known UK based Triumph dealer and after 3 weeks it had not arrived. After an email I received a BMC Race Filter (ÂŁ65 worth). Following the instructions in this post the balancing of the throttle bodies was easy. Here are some pics.











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Intrigued and damn nice job on the fuel line extension. Might make a trip to my AutoZone and see if they have the parts to make my own fuel extension.

I can't find the extension lead anywhere. Do you have a direct link to it?
 
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