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Understanding the difference between a regular 675 and a 675R model

62K views 58 replies 28 participants last post by  !!675R!!  
#1 · (Edited)
Sorry, gotta put this out there with all the threads and chatter about the 675R model.

First and foremost, when making the decision of whether or not to buy the R model you should consider what makes you happy. If you're the type of person that likes special edition color schemes and R badges, there's nothing wrong with that and you should buy what makes you happy. End of story, don't listen to what anybody else has to say.

However, if you're actually pondering the benefit, then I have the following to share with you.

Price difference: 1,500 dollars

What you get:
A special edition color scheme
Ohlins forks
Brembo Mono Blocks up front.

Let's break it down clearly and precisely what this actually means. The color scheme is self explanatory. It's a nice white scheme only available on that model with red and black accents. it looks tits and will certainly get you attention at ride meetups and parking lots.

Ohlins Forks. This sounds cool. Hell, the look cool. Even better, 99% of people don't know what they are or what they're good for---but they sure are pretty and have a name that sounds exotic.

Truth be told, the ohlins forks that come on the Daytona (or even ducati for that matter) are the bottom of the barrel. Real Ohlins catridges, in terms of what racers would buy if they had the money, go for about 10 grand. True story. The components/catridges in the model that come on the R are really no better than showa, etc. A little better, but barely measurable.

Adding to the issue is that they're all made for 175lbs riders (or something like that). The suspension (from a performance perspective) is probably worthless (as are stock forks) considering it's not setup for you. even the 10,000 dollar ohlins are no good if they're not set up properly for you.

Where am I going with this you're probably wondering. Simple. if you're actually concerned about performance, the ohlins suspension will cause more problems than it will solve. it'll cost more to have it set up for you (the internals are more expensive, I know, I have ohlins internals in my showa forks), and there's a bigger chance of an error in setup with all the extra clicks/settings.

If you're really concerned about performance, get the regular model and send the forks to a company like GMD, Traxxion Dynamics or GP suspension and have the springs and valves redone for your weight, skill level and intended application.

Next we have the brembo monoblocs. OK, yes, these are far superior to the regular brakes that come on the regular daytona. but again, you gotta look past the bling and understand why they're "better."

*edit for accuracy*
First of all, most people don't even realize what mono block means. probably because they've never changed their own brake pads. Mono block means the caliper is made out of one piece as opposed to two pieces bolted together. some models are two piston, some are four piston. the R has four piston monoblocs.

The benefit of a monobloc is more even distribution of the friction (less float then bi-block calipers). more even distribution provides a more progressive brake feel and ultimately more stopping power and the pressure is increased. this is why people rave about them. (on a personal note, i much prefer ravenous initial bite from my brakes...let's me know they're working lol).

monoblocs are also less susceptable to brake fade due to extreme tempratures. However, this is erroneous without having some time of Race grade/HH/Sintered Brake Pad and braided lines. Why? because rubber lines will expand when the brake fluid gets hot (yes, it gets hot and expands, like burn your finger hot) and regular OEM pads will melt under the stress. so Brake fade will be inevitable without upgrading these components (ergo, wasted money).

so again, if you're actually concerned about performance you should save teh 1,500 dollars and get yourself a set of braided lines and HH/race grade/sintered brake pads. if you want to splurge, add wave rotors (galfer or the like) which will help with heat dissapation. in concert, these items will blow away the brembo monoblocs that come on the R.

*edit for accuracy*
i learned after posting all daytonas come with braided lines


Again, i'm not trying to piss on the R model or the people that buy them. Just trying to help people understand what it is that make up the differences. I've seen countless posts asking how it handles, etc etc. truth be told, 99% of us will never put the bike anywhere near its limits, which is where you need to be (on the edge of traction) to know if something is helping or hindering.

Cheers,

PB
 
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#3 ·
Don't forget Carbon Fiber goodies, a QuickShifter
OK, lump the CF goodies in with the paint scheme. it's aesthetics.

the quickshifter I forgot about. this is definitely a nice track upgrade...though really not necessary unless you're pushing it all the way all the time.

that doesn't mean you shouldn't have it though! LOL.
 
#4 ·
Isn't there also a TTX shock? Or some type of Ohlins Rear Shock

Palm - do you know how the R Ohlins Forks compare to the Ohlins Cartridges (25mm, 30mm) members use in the stock forks? Assuming both are set up properly to your weight.

Thanks for the post - I didn't know what monoblocs were :)
 
#5 ·
An the TTX36 Ohlins rear shock.

You have to admit that all the upgrades:
Carbon
Quickshifter
Ohlins cartidges
TTX rear shock

For 'only' 1500 more , is a pretty good deal. Consider what people pay for stupid anodized bling shit that fades in the sun. whether you 'need' it or can use it is a different story, but also consider the 'psychological' aspect of have the upgraded parts from 2 points of view.

1. Not agonozied post purchase 'I should have got the R'
2. Track riding - pushing harder and fast and least eliminating the 'well I if I had the better suspension, brakes, etc, I would be a better rider.

Remember people not always act in a rational manner.

It's kind of why we bought Triumph's instead of GXR's or R6's, or whatever.

Are they cheaper? No.
Parts easier to find? No. (Don't you need a new motor?) .
Have more HP? No.
More reliable? (Don't you need a new motor?).

TS
 
#8 ·
An the TTX36 Ohlins rear shock.

You have to admit that all the upgrades:
Carbon
Quickshifter
Ohlins cartidges
TTX rear shock

For 'only' 1500 more , is a pretty good deal. Consider what people pay for stupid anodized bling shit that fades in the sun. whether you 'need' it or can use it is a different story, but also consider the 'psychological' aspect of have the upgraded parts from 2 points of view.

1. Not agonozied post purchase 'I should have got the R'
2. Track riding - pushing harder and fast and least eliminating the 'well I if I had the better suspension, brakes, etc, I would be a better rider.

Remember people not always act in a rational manner.

It's kind of why we bought Triumph's instead of GXR's or R6's, or whatever.

Are they cheaper? No.
Parts easier to find? No. (Don't you need a new motor?) .
Have more HP? No.
More reliable? (Don't you need a new motor?).

TS
yes, I am replacing my motor cause it blew...sucks.

the TTX36 shock is definitely better than your average stock shock. however, it's designed to be Ohlins mid range cost and mid range performance shock. it's really only put on ducatis, triumphs and other bikes like that which come with ohlins suspension from the factory.

there are much higher end and expensive ohlins for racing applications.
 
#6 · (Edited)
just to clarify, this was not intended as a: is the 1,500 worth it. I think we can all agree it is.

this is strictly a performance discussion.

edit for Umi's question: I'll find out.

second edit for Umi: the response i got was: "No." guess that settle that LOL.
 
#10 ·
First off I respect your opinions as an avid track rider and racer, however I have a couple points of contention

1) Ă–lins forks/ TTX rear shock/spring - What I've been hearing lately is "Well they're worthless if you don't get them set up by a tuner and...etc". OK, yes. Obviously. But, at 170-175 pounds I luckily fit right into the mold for the "standard" setup. Does this mean I think I've got the end all be all of sports bike suspension straight from the factory? No. But it is a great starting point. It allos me to go to something like SoCal TrackDays (an open session format) and get a suspension diary going to see what settings feel best for me and dial it in all day. "Yeah but you could do that on the stock suspension you idiot!" Yeah I could. I happened to be in the market for a bike, the R happened to be available and I happened to fall in love with it. Motorcycling is a love affair first, in my opinion.

2) Your point about brake lines - Yes you are right, brake fluid heats up and rubber brake lines will not hold the pressure like a steel braided line. Fortunately the bike comes with steel braided brake lines as I believe all Daytonas do. Please correct me if I'm wrong on that point.

What I really wonder is why people are so eager to write a post like this. Why tear down a fellow rider's choice because of their penchant for leaping at available affordable upgrades? I understand the whole "squid buying a bike to look cool at starbucks" thing. I tend to scoff at that sort as well since I actually enjoy riding and try to learn how to better my riding every single day (weather permitting, which thankfully in California it often is), but if someone wants to look good at Starbucks, that's their prerogative. I'm not big into pissing contests, but hey if that's your thing, enjoy.

Is your point to bash Triumph for offering a bike that does not meet your expectations? If so, I say this: it's 1500 dollars extra. Even if these components are as you say "bottom of the barrel" (which I do not entirely believe is the case) these were Upgrades I was planning on purchasing anyways and much greater expense than an initial 1500 dollar surcharge. TTX Rear Shock - Sportbiketrackgear.com has it for $1248.45. Well I'd say the quick shifter, gearbox update, brembo calipers/master cylinder, and carbon fiber AND "bottom of the barrel" NIX 30 forks are well worth $251.55. Tell me if you think differently.

The reason I come to this site is for well researched information from smart people and good riders. All of your points come from a point of knowledge and experience which I can appreciate since many people would not know what the benefit of a monoblock caliper or Ă–hlins suspension. I'm just wondering why come from the standpoint of "This bike is rubbish what a waste of time", or at least that was the feeling it elicited from me.
 
#13 ·
I really tried to clarify I wasn't knocking anybody for their choice to get an R. The first thing I wrote was in agreement with your statement that motorcycling is a love affair.

I'm just trying to point out actual benefits to help people realize that if you're going to buy an R model, it's because you want to, not because the performance gains are stellar.

I think it's a dead sexy bike, personally!

as for the suspension and you fitting the mold...that's awesome and you're right it's a good starting point. there is also things to consider like spring rates, suspension valves and on an on and on.

again, i wasn't knocking, bro. my hope for the post is so people can really understand what all this TTX36, ohlins forks, brembo mono bloc stuff means.

in the end of the day, do what makes you happy, which is what i said in the first place! :)
 
#15 ·
thanks for pointing that out. I was actually unaware of that as I mentioned.
 
#14 ·
and let's at least give credit to the obvious...9 out of 10 people who buy an R are so scared of binning it that the bike will never see a track or aggressive street riding lol.
 
#21 ·
I just wanted to thank you for posting this, I see a lot of threads talking about Rs but none are really that specific. It is nice to have threads out like these that break it down for us people who would like to know. Thanks for putting in the time man.

cheers
 
#23 ·
The R comes with a more powerful brembo MC too. Also, the brake lines are actually run intelligently on the R.

Another thing is "monoblock" brakes are monoblock because each caliper is made from a single block of material, opposed to most calipers where each half is milled then bolted to the other to form the caliper. That moving part you're referring to is the piston and you compared a 2 piston caliper to a 4 piston caliper.
 
#25 ·
you're actually more correct as some mono blocs are four piston. forgive me!

the monobloc is in fact referring to the fact that it's one piece. :bowdown:

*edit* for what it's worth i wrote the original post while pretending to listen to my boss in a meeting...shsshhh...don't tell anyone
 
#24 ·
I really like the R. I just wish there was an upgrade to the engine. That is not to say that the D675 is anything less than my favorite bike in the world! I am just saying, to me, R=race. The D675 is already great for the track. Why not come with factory Arrow full or a slightly tweaked engine.

Either way, I am just jealous that I don't have it LOL
 
#34 ·
good read :thumbup:

as much as id love a 675R, ill stick with my 07, and just upgrade her, i actually live like 20 mins from traxxion dynamics, and have wanted to bring my forks over there for a while.

i knew someone had to post something like this, seeing all the threads about how it handles and benefits etc, i thought the same thing that was going through Palms head. most of the people who buy the R, will never actually know the difference and benefits.

i dont care though, im happy for everyone who joins the triumph family. the more money triumph makes, the better off we are when they put that money back into the development of their bikes :nod:
 
#40 ·
I will sell you some black ones... :whistle:
 
#45 ·
I agree with Palm Bomb and for the same reasons. I've riden factory Ohlins equiped Ducs vs. their regular counterparts without being impressed much by the difference at all.
For me the biggest thing is set up and the one size fits all approach a factory bike is set for generally means it fits no one well.
I know a lot of people claim that these are the "right" parts but they are set up for the street with street valving and spring rates and a generic street rider - they are certainly not proper Ohlins race bits (and honestly you would not want such on a street bike to start with).
Almost anyone who has ridden a bike that was built and set up for them by a good shop (Cogent Dynamics in my case for both Penske forks and shock) knows that it's really hard to appreciate how much of a difference it makes. The R just gives a marginally improved platform to work from (and it is pretty).

I'm guessing the OE quick shifter cannot be converted to "pull" (for GP)?

Which Brembo master does the 675R have? Is it the typical OE 16mm Brembo or a proper 19mm? The regular brakes with a proper pad are pretty good, with a proper master (RCS in my case) they are really good. I believe it has dual lines to the master which I like a lot better than the OE set up.

I think the people that assume others are just bashing the R read too much both into its spec sheet and into the critiques. Its a pretty machine with some nice touches which on the street that amount to little more than bling and on the track give you a bit of a head start to having a properly handling machine.
 
#46 ·
I think the people that assume others are just bashing the R read too much both into its spec sheet and into the critiques. Its a pretty machine with some nice touches which on the street that amount to little more than bling and on the track give you a bit of a head start to having a properly handling machine.
Could not agree more with this above statement. 675R lovers: Its an awesome bike!! Just buy it for whatever purpose you want it for and enjoy it. I paid extra for my 08 SE 675, and that was just for cosmetic stuff. If the 675R came out the same time I was considering a 675 , I would have bought it.
 
#47 ·
Here is a little curve ball to this discussion as it relates to price.

Go to the official Triumph site and there is an offer going on now were you get $1330 of free accessories with the purchase of new 'normal' Daytona.

Daytona 675 - Now with over $1,330 worth of free accessories, featuring Arrow slip on muffler, CNC short levers and quick shifter.

What you could do is make your own but better 'R' using this base it would cost you about $500 less then R if you went with Ohlins TTX36/30mm cartridges built to your weight and aded a Brembo RCS MC.

Actually with this savings you could throw in a slipper and you would be basically at same price at R, sans carbon fender (who really cares?)

TS
 
#55 ·
First I must say, this is an "interesting" thread. Speaking from a Ducati stand point, I have ridden most of the ducati models. I have owned 5 of them, still own two.

As for Ohlin's being "bottom shelf" I have to disagree. Now I am not a road racer, but I do run in the "A" group on my local track. Three of my recent ducs, and two current models, have the ohlin's installed. The ohlin's are SO MUCH BETTER than the stock Showa's I have had. Yes, you have to tune them to work and a couple of clicks makes for a world of difference. I have had my showa's revalved and Resprung (Race Tech) they were good, but maybe just my luck, I haven't had to send my Ohlin's to Dan Kyle for "heavy" tuning.

Just my humble opinion. I haven't picked up and ridden and tuned my new bike yet, perhaps these new Ohlin's are going to be complete shite, but I have to believe they will do what I ask of them...... PLUS THEY LOOK GREAT! Also, I am glad that someone chimed in about mono blocks meaning one piece, Brembo doesn't even use that nomenclature. They just say "machined from one piece" I think that was the journalist or Ducati that coined that term.

I will let you know if I think the new swedish suspenders are up to the task after riding the bike on the track. Although, having ridden the stock 675 in the past I always the stock components work quite well and were about as balanced as they could have been--good kit for sure.

Let the flaming begin I guess.

Mark
 
#56 ·
First I must say, this is an "interesting" thread. Speaking from a Ducati stand point, I have ridden most of the ducati models. I have owned 5 of them, still own two.

As for Ohlin's being "bottom shelf" I have to disagree. Now I am not a road racer, but I do run in the "A" group on my local track. Three of my recent ducs, and two current models, have the ohlin's installed. The ohlin's are SO MUCH BETTER than the stock Showa's I have had. Yes, you have to tune them to work and a couple of clicks makes for a world of difference. I have had my showa's revalved and Resprung (Race Tech) they were good, but maybe just my luck, I haven't had to send my Ohlin's to Dan Kyle for "heavy" tuning.

Just my humble opinion. I haven't picked up and ridden and tuned my new bike yet, perhaps these new Ohlin's are going to be complete shite, but I have to believe they will do what I ask of them...... PLUS THEY LOOK GREAT! Also, I am glad that someone chimed in about mono blocks meaning one piece, Brembo doesn't even use that nomenclature. They just say "machined from one piece" I think that was the journalist or Ducati that coined that term.

I will let you know if I think the new swedish suspenders are up to the task after riding the bike on the track. Although, having ridden the stock 675 in the past I always the stock components work quite well and were about as balanced as they could have been--good kit for sure.

Let the flaming begin I guess.

Mark
i agree coming from a Ducati 1098 Base model i kicked myself for buying the model without the ohlins so i replaced my showas with FGRT803 front forks which are better in spec than the forks on a 1098S and ohlins rear shock all sprung correctly. Night and Day difference. you guys all need to remember too the R model exists for homologation purposes, ie so they can race it these NIX forks are better than the ohlins forks which come on most if not all other production bikes as they are race spec with separate circuits for compression and rebound dampenening, they make what comes on the 1198R look cheap by comparison, the only thing they might need is to be resprung for your weight which we all know is to achieve the magical sag values with minimal preload. respringing is not expensive. oh and the only thing missing from the TTX rear shock is the hydraulic preload adjuster, it would be nice but it can also fail and lets face it adjuster nuts are pretty easy to use. so before you all come in ranting and raving about how the ohlins are a waste etc etc maybe learn a little about the actual product as they run rings around the standard 675 equipment, i mean you all need to step back and ease of the R envy
 
#59 ·
And it does come with steel braided break lines......... If you were to purchase all the extras that cone standard on the R I would guesstimate your looking at about 5k extra to do it aftermarket on a standard 675. And considering its only 1500 more, well I think its worth it regardless of how your riding or how much you weigh.....