[redmosquito1]

Ok, just got done balancing these. Took about an hour start to finish and got all 3 to settle in at 760hPa @ idle. A lot higher numbers than you guys but they all match so I was happy

 

[d'ecosse]

Have you guys just tried turning the tank around to have front face backwards?

Haven't tried it myself but intuitively looks logical - you can then just perch it on the tail sub-frame ....
I do something similar with my 'big' Daytona - except on that one it sits sideways across the subframe as the fuel lines and power connector are on side of the tank.

 

[redmosquito1]

not sure you could manipulate the fuel line enough to make it work. And since I've already cracked one pump outlet not willing to try it either.

But it could work, I know on my sprint it could have worked.

 

[Dave_tona_675]

uquick question what are the 3 numbers that you use to synchronize the throttle bodies? I know they have to be in sync, but what are they an indication of (whats their meaning). Thanx.

 

[qweesy]

uquick question what are the 3 numbers that you use to synchronize the throttle bodies? I know they have to be in sync, but what are they an indication of (whats their meaning). Thanx.

the vacuum the TB's are pulling......:thumbup:

 

[Dave_tona_675]

ok i just fucked the dog on this one forgot to plug in the vaccum tube on the map sensor for a minute and now it idles at 4000. Thru up a code for a second, cleared the code tune ecu locked up now i cant get the code back but it was something to do with the map sensor. Map sensor is hooked up to the vaccum and the sensor plugin but wont rev down.

 

[Dave_tona_675]

tune ecu wont let me reset throttle posistion sensor, maybe thats the culprit? maybe i fucked it up when i was movin the tank around.

 

[redmosquito1]

Just to be sure there isn't anything tugging on the throttle cables right?

Or anything in the way of the throttle bodies at all?

I left that hose unplugged on accident once and all that happened was a cel. It ran fine

 

[Dave_tona_675]

imgonna go look at everythingtoday i think the tps is fucked, i didnt have the map sensor hooked up proper, i goosed the throttle once cause it was idlin puky now its stuck idling at 4000. No other codes have been thrown. tune ecu wont let me reset tps.

 

[Dave_tona_675]

ok so now i fire tge bike up it idles at 2100 rpm, gets hotter and the idle continues to pick up til it hits 5500 or so, if i manually put my hand on the throttle and push against it it will stay around 2100 or so but as soon as i let off it takes off again, i looked at the actuator and the little rubber boot was knocked to the bottom like the actuator freaked out or something? so i fucked with that a minute, when i run the bike i notice the actuator adjusts itself up and down is there a way i can tell that thing to reset? i rest the tps in tune ecu and it won't help, also i noticed the air intake flapper was stuck wide open and i dont have a tune telling it to do so, so i tried to just "disable it" setting it at 1350 rpm, witch is about what my bike is supposed to idle at. Any ideas guys? im still pretty new i checked all the connections everythings hooked up.

 

[redmosquito1]

There is a tes function in tuneECU that will allow you test the idle stepper motor. Run that and see if its messed up.

Double check all the electrical and vacuum connections too.

Are you able to operate the trottle fine when the bike is off?

I'm leaning towards the problem being the idle stepper motor. Not to sure how to reset that but a reset of the adaptations might help.

 

[Dave_tona_675]

it wont let me run a test/analyze on the ism, exup valve, NOTHING but it would let me reset tps. Throttle operates freely cables arentpulling excessive there doesnt seem to be excessive slop in them, the ism keeps hopping around, also why is the air flap stuck open when its not sposed to open til 4500 rpms? could the map sensor have a problem? shouldnt it throw a code in the ism, map sensor or anywhere else where it might have a problem?

 

[Dave_tona_675]

ok now i can run tests and adjust everything, ism seems to be working fine with .70 volts and the test works good but now the tps doesnt seem to be reading on the screen and its idling arond 1900 rpms.

 

[redmosquito1]

Check your tune that is loaded. It could be telling it to idle that high.

 

[Dave_tona_675]

ok heres where im at, i thought it was the tune too, so i reloaded stock tune. I reset adaptions, twice. I reset tps, 3 times. I even went as far as disconnecting battery in hopes of a reset. It idles from 1900-2400 or so after t gets going. I tested the ism and it seemed to kinda move around like it should then towards the end of the stroke it makes a errr almost like something grinding but not 100% positive yet on the ism being culprit because of #1 the air intake flap is stuck in the wide open posistion and wont even move when i test it in tune ecu, or sai w/e the hell its called. and #2 i think the sensor that tells the fan to kick over isnt kicking over either. Not sure if ive gotten it hot enough yet.

 

[Baba Zanetti]

The air intake flap being stuck open and your high idle problem points to a vacuum leak somewhere between the hose that connects underneath #1 throttle body (from memory) the vacuum canister/solenoid assy and the
actuator that moves the flap.
With the bike off the flap is open, when you start the engine the manifold vacuum closes it according to what is set in the current tune, stock tune should open it round 4500rpm, if you have the TOR or a modded tune it is usually set
to open at 900rpm.
SAI is a separate system, testing it in Tune ECU (with the engine off) should produce a click from it's solenoid (sits above the cam cover on the LHS) testing the air flapper should produce a click from the vacuum solenoid
(located next to the vacuum canister, on the lower LHS of the radiator)
Fan should kick on when you have 7+ bars on the dash.

Did you have to adjust the #1 throttle body heaps to get your numbers matching when you did the balance?

 

[Dave_tona_675]

i didnt balance the throttle bodies yet because the idles been fucked, wouldnt the numbers on the throttlebodies be fucked if i had a vaccum leak? I got clicks and ticks from all of my stuff when i tested it, i reset the tune to stock map stock setting with the fan sposed to kick over at 103 celsius, i had the fan set to kick on at 100 celcuis and i dont think it got that hot when it spewed coolant. Ill recheck my vaccum lines again when i go over there, i am going to order a new manual idler, cause i think thats a good idea anyhow and im thinking the ism is jacked up. Macbandit reccomended turning the air flapper back on in tune ecu, going to try that tomorrow. Sai is that shot of air into the exhaust to cheat on emissions, correct? JESUS theres wayyy too many sensors on this fucker, i can count 6 or 7 sensors that i can see alone underthere.

 

[qweesy]

damn seems alot of guys here are having problems with the ISM l8ly....... im glad i got rid of that crap, here is the install guide for the manual idle kit......... kinda sounds like you have a disconnected vacuum hose somewhere..... if your not using the flapper delete the vacuum aswell........ and you dont need SAI either cap that shit.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=41209&highlight=manual+idle

dont you think Triumph would have saved quite a bit of cash if the bike just frickin came with manual idle?..........but maybe some wouldn't know how to work it.....

 

[Dave_tona_675]

checked all my hoses didnt see any loose vaccum hoses, but why would it idle high if the ism was stripped? wouldnt it idle low?

 

[Dave_tona_675]

also my tune ecu read off all the numbers on the throttle bodies wouldnt they be inconsistant and jump around or not even show up if i had a vaccum leak of some sort?