I am thinking the rear captive brake mount is in my future, hope they can use the triumph red anodized blocks..

The brake bracket makes me want to throw my bike off the stands at times!:angry:

I am windering if the front axle is a modified stocker or something lighter?

 

I love stuff like this, that's all awesome although too pricey for my blood. Does anyone know how the quick change axles work?

 

based off what i read about the zx10r front axle, they mod the STOCK axle by putting in an insert to be used with an impact gun and the pretty collar to locate the socket.. also comes with the captive spacers.

The rear locks the caliper bracket to the right side adjuster block (captive), then you have the axle modded in what looks the same way, as the front not sure on the mods to the sprocket sidee looks liek the axle adjuster block is attached to the axle assemnly. and of course comes with captive wheel spacers.

Does not change the set-up to a locked in sprocket and chain carrier like on endurance and the gp bikes.

 

The captive rear brake is an easy mod and takes about 30 mins. I'll do a write up on how to if anybody wants? How much for the captive spacers? We do a set for the price they want for 1 wheel.

Heres our new range of axles being made at the moment, lighter and stronger than Titanium.

 

The captive rear brake is an easy mod and takes about 30 mins. I'll do a write up on how to if anybody wants? How much for the captive spacers? We do a set for the price they want for 1 wheel.

Heres our new range of axles being made at the moment, lighter and stronger than Titanium.
View attachment 36562

Please do a write up!

 

Subscribing, in hopes that more info will be posted.

 

I just looked the pics over and nothing about this seems very hard. I think I even have an extra caliper mounting bracket laying around, I will probably give it a shot tonight and see how it comes out.

 

Yea, unless I'm missing something, i don't see why tapping two holes in a cheap bracket would cost over $100.

Is there something else done to the bracket?

 

Not that I can see. Tap 2 holes in the bracket, drill 2 holes in the adjuster block, bolt them together over the swingarm and you're done. I might also see about tacking the spacer on the bracket as well. Then I'm 50% of the way there to a quick change rear axle setup.

 

Oh Hell, then send me your bracket and adjuster, and i'll replicate this set up for $75! :grin:

I'll even through in some nice counter sunk allen head stainless bolts. :grin::grin:

 

I'll do it for $65, lol.

The only part I'm not sure about is how I keep the bolts from coming loose. You don't want it to be too tight or the bracket and adjuster block won't be able to slide back and forth. I'm guessing some red loc tite will do the trick, tighten to where it can still slide and let it dry there. What you think?

 

I'll do it for $65, lol.

The only part I'm not sure about is how I keep the bolts from coming loose. You don't want it to be too tight or the bracket and adjuster block won't be able to slide back and forth. I'm guessing some red loc tite will do the trick, tighten to where it can still slide and let it dry there. What you think?

I think i used a bit of blue Loctite just to be safe. Worked fine, never came loose.

I think the adjustor block and the bracket still moved front and back once it was tight, so chain adjustment wasn't an issue. You're not mounting it to the frame, just each other. Doesn't need to be super tight, just enough to hold it in place (15lbs. or so)

Remember, you're just holding the bracket for installation. once the axle nut is tight, that bracket and spacer isn't going anywhere.

 

Sorry been ill so not had chance to do a write up on the captive rear brake. It's simply to do with a pillar drill and a tap. I will get on it this weekend.
Axles are aerospace T7068 alloy. Stronger and lighter than Ti. A nightmare to machine. The axles will be tested against stock one in march to prove how much stronger they are. Then they go on sale £110 each or £190 front and rear pair.

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Sorry been ill so not had chance to do a write up on the captive rear brake. It's simply to do with a pillar drill and a tap. I will get on it this weekend.
Axles are aerospace T7068 alloy. Stronger and lighter than Ti. A nightmare to machine. The axles will be tested against stock one in march to prove how much stronger they are. Then they go on sale £110 each or £190 front and rear pair.

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Questions:

Does this come with a rear axle nut?
Can they be (or are they) drilled for safety wire?
How much lighter than stock?

The strength is nice, but I'd be happy if they were just as strong as stock. Can't remember ever seeing a racer with a broken axle.

I guess the real challenge is to make sure they'll take repeated torque settings, especially the rear. If it's too stiff, they may crack rather than stretch.

BTW: Do you think this process was more or less expensive than using titanium?

 

Kaiser Tennalum axles........

.

 

Tennalum (T7068 alloy) has been used by TPO parts for Ducati front axles since at least 2008, maybe a bit longer. The material is a bit lighter but relatively the same weight as titanium although it has much higher shear strength than Titanium and exceeds the strength of the stock steel units.


.

 

Tennalum (T7068 alloy) has been used by TPO parts for Ducati front axles since at least 2008, maybe a bit longer. The material is a bit lighter but relatively the same weight as titanium although it has much higher shear strength than Titanium and exceeds the strength of the stock steel units.

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Now we just need some weights and availability and i am IN, would be a nice upgrade with some ceramic bearings..

 

We are boring the centres of the axles out next week. Its a 4 hour job per axle! After that we should have some weights of the finished product. We've not thought about a rear axle nut as the price may be silly compared with the easy to get Ti nut which I currently use. I'll make some drawings and costs to see if a nuts viable. We may go down the route of putting nylon bungs in either end to act as crash protection and guides for fitting ease.

Also we are producing a new lock stop range for all 2006/12 Daytona's & Streets. Its a simple one piece item and should be about £15 to 20. Offered as a road or race variant. The road one will be aimed at bikes that are used on the road but have had their lock stop broken. Race one will have limited lock to lock movement.

 

We are boring the centres of the axles out next week. Its a 4 hour job per axle! After that we should have some weights of the finished product. We've not thought about a rear axle nut as the price may be silly compared with the easy to get Ti nut which I currently use. I'll make some drawings and costs to see if a nuts viable. We may go down the route of putting nylon bungs in either end to act as crash protection and guides for fitting ease.

Also we are producing a new lock stop range for all 2006/12 Daytona's & Streets. Its a simple one piece item and should be about £15 to 20. Offered as a road or race variant. The road one will be aimed at bikes that are used on the road but have had their lock stop broken. Race one will have limited lock to lock movement.

With the options out there i am sure justing buying one that is available would be a better option.. I have a Pro-bolt on the 675 right now, Mettec & Tpo can get them here stateside also.

Sign me up for a front & rear axle kit!:thumbup:

 

I have a proBolt titanium axle nut as well, but it's a smaller socket size than my Put Bull trailer restraint :-(

So it sits on the shelf at the moment.

 

Well shit man glad you mentioned this, as i am going to order the PitBull restraint system.. So your saying the probolt titanium nut is not compatibale with their system?

 

Check out the Tyre Down for something that functions similar to the pit bull trailer restraint but doesn't require the axle. A member recommended it and I got one and LOVE it. Loading my bike just became effortless.

 

I dunno, a few things have me concerned.

First, you need a wheel chock to keep the bike from moving front/back. Not a huge deal, but I like not having one.

Second, i don't like the idea of a piece of metal strapped down under pressure on the rear tire. After a hot day, that tire is going to have pretty good imprint on it, especially a soft race tire. The PitBull puts zero pressure on the tires and suspension.

One the other hand, i like the bike trailers that company makes. Very trick!