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Discussion starter · #162 ·
Day 26

Day 26

Not got much done, although did go for another shake down run. Only about ten miles. I'd forgotten just how nice the Daytona motor is. So torquey and such a great noise. I was partly indulging myself in just having a ride because it's been so long since I've ridden, but also as part of my investigation into the battery problem.

I put the new battery on charge again at midday on Tuesday, then turned off the charger midday Thursday. Checked the voltage on my cheap dial meter and it said about 14 volts. It's really difficult to read it accurately so I borrowed HyperDrives digital one. That gave me 13.09 volts. I think that's healthy. Kept checking it every few hours and it stayed pretty constant.

On Friday I just started the motor at a standstill and ran it for about three minutes. The voltage straight after dropped to about 12.96 volts. Subsequent checks see it at 13.04 volts, so it seems to be behaving itself now. I'll check again on Sunday and if all seems well I'll wrap up the loom again.

I wanted to do that today, but I best find out if I have a problem or not. I spent the afternoon polishing the old bodywork in preparation for putting on eBay. I think I'm past the point of no return (actually I could put her back), but I happy with how things have come together so she is going to be a keeper.

So if anybody needs stuff from a Daytona (2006 model) then get in touch. Bear in mind I am in the UK, as some of our colonial cousins don't seem to know where the original Jersey is!
 
Discussion starter · #163 · (Edited)
Day 27

Day 27

Well the battery problem seems to be sorted. She has been sitting in the garage for a week now and she started up twice today no problem. I just ran her for a minute each time then shut her down. Looks like Hyperdrive was right, I just needed to charge the new battery for 48 hours on the Optimate. So worth remembering that even if the green light on the Optimate comes on it might be worth leaving a battery on charge for longer.

I was working last week, at the weekend and this week so I just managed to get three hours in tonight. I shortened the wires for the front indicators and fitted connectors. Removed what bodywork was on in readiness to go to the painters. Just waiting for my stickers to arrive as I'm getting them lacquered in on the tank. They should be here in a couple of days as I ordered them last week. I was going to remove the tank and take off the fuel pump and filler, but I started getting hungry!

My new expansion bottle (see pics) came down last week. I got it from Moore Speed Racing. They do them in black or silver, I got black so it would disappear better. It is a little bigger than I anticipated, but it feels quality and I hope to attach it to the radiator pretty much where the Bud Light bottle is at present. Then when I get the rad cowls on it should be hidden.
 
Discussion starter · #164 · (Edited)
Day 28 & 29

Day 28 & 29

Well I wrapped it up today. The loom that is, not the project. Takes some time I can tell you, but got the loom completely recovered now (see pics) and things looking a lot more normal under the tank. I was annoyed to find a loose wire in one of my connector blocks from the handlebars, so fixed that. I had used the proper crimping tool for the spade connectors so disappointed that that had happened. Hopefully that wont occur again.

I relocated the flapper valve. I was going to fit a resistor in its place, but I have been told that these can run way too hot, so I decided to keep it and find it a new home. It's only a small part and weight is not an issue as it isn't a race bike. Plus it means one less thing that I haven't changed from standard. I was looking at mounting it where the expansion bottle used to sit, but in the end I found a small gap in front of the battery and it jams in nicely there (see photo). I had to solder some extra wires so I could run the connector to it.

Finally managed to get the left frame infill fitted. Bit of a squeeze with all the wires and throttle cable. The SAI is once again proving to be a nuisance. With the bracket for the rad cowl fitted there isn't enough space for the SAI and airbox, so I may have to cut down the rad cowl bracket to fit it all in. I have a bracket on order so I'll know when it arrives.

I got the fuel pump relay recall parts from my dealer and fitted those. So now all the relay posts on top of my airbox are full. Glad about that as I wondered why I had one extra!

I'm getting near to the end of the build, so starting to get a bit excited now. The stickers I ordered have held things up by a week. The first ones they sent me there was a bigger gap between two of the letters compared to the others and it looked well biff. So I got them to redo it. Once I have these I can get the bodywork off to the painters.

Some small jobs to be done now, just tidying things up. The bigger jobs still to do are change the sump, change the exhaust system, fit the Street Triple radiator, get the engine cases powder coated. I'll do all those together as I have to drop all the oil and water out and remove the radiator to get at the exhaust.
 

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Discussion starter · #166 ·
Can hardly wait to see finished pics.

I canned the SAI, and have had no problems...
I can't wait either!

Did you do anything else apart from removing the SAI and fitting blanking plates?
 
Discussion starter · #168 ·
Removed EXUP, O2 sensor and flapper as well.
Didn't fit blank plates, just unscrewed the springs on the reed valves and flipped them, screwed them back together and the valves will never open.
Was that the Lambda sensor near the EXUP valve? Did you block the hoses that lead into the reed valves?

Did you have to do anything to the ECU?
 
yes, Lambda/O2 sensor.

I took all the hoses off, but didn't block the holes where the hoses attach...since the reed valves are permanently closed. Eventually I will make some block off plates.

Used the TuneECU program to disable Lambda/O2 sensor, EXUP, and SAI.
 
Discussion starter · #171 ·
yes, Lambda/O2 sensor.

I took all the hoses off, but didn't block the holes where the hoses attach...since the reed valves are permanently closed. Eventually I will make some block off plates.

Used the TuneECU program to disable Lambda/O2 sensor, EXUP, and SAI.
Aha! The TuneBoy thing again. Don't know if that is available over here. Thanks for the info.
 
Discussion starter · #173 ·
Discussion starter · #174 ·
Day 30

Day 30

Managed to get in the garage for a few hours after work today. I made a protective grille for the air intake on the new bikini fairing mount. There is a large grille in front of this moulded into the bodywork, but I thought I would add to it. I had some old chicken wire in the garage, originally purchased in 1996 (!) when I made a radiator guard for my ZX-7R. As on that bike it's hidden away, so it doesn't need to look pretty. That said, I still sprayed it black anyway. I also made another one for where the bikini fairing mount attaches to the frame intake area. Don't want any large wildlife finding its way into the airbox!

Whilst I had the spray can out I also sprayed the instrument adapter mount so it blends in a bit better and the heavy steel mount brackets that attach the whole plot to the front of the bike, again so they blend in and also to try and stop them rusting. I had to get the grinder on them to finish them off prior to painting.

You can see from the photo where I had to cut away material from the brackets, otherwise there may not have been enough air able to pass into the airbox. In fact there may still be a slight hinderance to the air coming in, but I figure it will make the bike run rich so I shouldn't need to worry. In any case I plan to install a Power Commander and get the bike set up on a Dyno, so that should be able to adjust the fueling to suit.

Did a bit more taping on the mini loom for the headlights and added a plastic cover to the loom that runs to the speedo for waterproofing.
 

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Don't waste your money on a power commander!!!!!! The Tune ECU program can adjust fuel as well as ignition, check error codes, plus a whole host of other functions. For free!!!

TuneECU is the best thing since sliced bread.
 
Discussion starter · #176 ·
Don't waste your money on a power commander!!!!!! The Tune ECU program can adjust fuel as well as ignition, check error codes, plus a whole host of other functions. For free!!!

TuneECU is the best thing since sliced bread.
I obviously need to look into this option. Thanks again. :thumbup:
 
I obviously need to look into this option. Thanks again. :thumbup:
Your very welcome. Figure you can use that money for something else on the bike.

Edit: when are you gonna show us some nice pics of the bike? you're such a tease.
 
Discussion starter · #179 · (Edited)
Day 31

Day 31

More small tidy up type jobs today and a couple of more involved ones.

I trimmed down the bolts that attach the bikini fairing mount to the adapter brackets. The last one took a while as my hacksaw blade went blunt! I had a go at making a tail tidy from the original massive air brake type trellis thing. But it looked well nasty and so I'm going to order an Evo Tech one as they are the nicest I have seen.

I got my bodywork ready for taking to the painters including taking the fuel pump, fuel filler and brackets off the fuel tank. That's all now at the painters, so hopefully I will have some lovely Ford Aquarius Blue bodywork by the weekend. It's the same colour as the blue on my race bike, which you can see below on my signature image. Unlike my race bike (which I painted) it will be nice shinny paintwork. Can't wait to get that back. I'll have to resist the temptation to put it all on before I finish the other bits. It'll be hard though!

OK, on to the bigger jobs. Drain the oil and coolant. First remove the radiator which came off nice and easy. Then onto the exhaust system. The silencer is easy to remove, just two bolts. Then the header pipes. I was expecting these to put up a fight because they are as rusty as a very rusty thing that lives at the bottom of the sea. I know this bike is a 2006 model and has been ridden in all weathers, but it only has 5,000 miles on the clock and the condition of some of the fasteners is disgusting. Check out the shot of the EXUP valve. The cables were seized in. Luckily the replacement system had all these parts already so when I put them on I shall be applying liberal doses of copaslip to try and keep them looking nice and more importantly not seizing up.

Anyway the header pipe nuts came off with no drama and no busted threads on the studs in the head, which was a relief. A couple more nuts undone, remove the Lambda sensor in the exhaust and off the header pipes come, with no drama. Next job was to get the engine cases off for powder coating. Started on the right and all three came off no bother. However in the clutch cover there are two bearings and when powder coating you need to remove bearings, well on wheels anyway. Powder coating is looking less likely now as I'm not going to try and get those bearings out. Then onto the left casing. A bit more effort to move this one. I get it about 10cm away from the gearbox and then it feels like there is something attached. I daren't pull any harder in case I bust something. This isn't good. Time to walk away.

I go straight to my computer and read the service manual. It says the alternator is housed in the casing and when removing you have to pull against the magnets in the alternator. Hmmmm. They must be pretty strong magnets, coz I'm pulling quite hard. I sleep on it.

Next day I pop into my local dealer and ask him. As far as he can remember you just pull it off. Street Tango also said the same thing. When I get home from work it's straight to the bike and give the case a good pull. Off she comes. Relief. I look at the alternator and decide that because of that and the bearings in the other side I'm not getting the cases powder coated. Some rattle cans will do the job. Next job is to get the sump off.
 

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