Yes. correct.

 

That bike is sexy

 

Day 26

Day 26

Not got much done, although did go for another shake down run. Only about ten miles. I'd forgotten just how nice the Daytona motor is. So torquey and such a great noise. I was partly indulging myself in just having a ride because it's been so long since I've ridden, but also as part of my investigation into the battery problem.

I put the new battery on charge again at midday on Tuesday, then turned off the charger midday Thursday. Checked the voltage on my cheap dial meter and it said about 14 volts. It's really difficult to read it accurately so I borrowed HyperDrives digital one. That gave me 13.09 volts. I think that's healthy. Kept checking it every few hours and it stayed pretty constant.

On Friday I just started the motor at a standstill and ran it for about three minutes. The voltage straight after dropped to about 12.96 volts. Subsequent checks see it at 13.04 volts, so it seems to be behaving itself now. I'll check again on Sunday and if all seems well I'll wrap up the loom again.

I wanted to do that today, but I best find out if I have a problem or not. I spent the afternoon polishing the old bodywork in preparation for putting on eBay. I think I'm past the point of no return (actually I could put her back), but I happy with how things have come together so she is going to be a keeper.

So if anybody needs stuff from a Daytona (2006 model) then get in touch. Bear in mind I am in the UK, as some of our colonial cousins don't seem to know where the original Jersey is!

 

Day 27

Day 27

Well the battery problem seems to be sorted. She has been sitting in the garage for a week now and she started up twice today no problem. I just ran her for a minute each time then shut her down. Looks like Hyperdrive was right, I just needed to charge the new battery for 48 hours on the Optimate. So worth remembering that even if the green light on the Optimate comes on it might be worth leaving a battery on charge for longer.

I was working last week, at the weekend and this week so I just managed to get three hours in tonight. I shortened the wires for the front indicators and fitted connectors. Removed what bodywork was on in readiness to go to the painters. Just waiting for my stickers to arrive as I'm getting them lacquered in on the tank. They should be here in a couple of days as I ordered them last week. I was going to remove the tank and take off the fuel pump and filler, but I started getting hungry!

My new expansion bottle (see pics) came down last week. I got it from Moore Speed Racing. They do them in black or silver, I got black so it would disappear better. It is a little bigger than I anticipated, but it feels quality and I hope to attach it to the radiator pretty much where the Bud Light bottle is at present. Then when I get the rad cowls on it should be hidden.

 

Day 28 & 29

Day 28 & 29

Well I wrapped it up today. The loom that is, not the project. Takes some time I can tell you, but got the loom completely recovered now (see pics) and things looking a lot more normal under the tank. I was annoyed to find a loose wire in one of my connector blocks from the handlebars, so fixed that. I had used the proper crimping tool for the spade connectors so disappointed that that had happened. Hopefully that wont occur again.

I relocated the flapper valve. I was going to fit a resistor in its place, but I have been told that these can run way too hot, so I decided to keep it and find it a new home. It's only a small part and weight is not an issue as it isn't a race bike. Plus it means one less thing that I haven't changed from standard. I was looking at mounting it where the expansion bottle used to sit, but in the end I found a small gap in front of the battery and it jams in nicely there (see photo). I had to solder some extra wires so I could run the connector to it.

Finally managed to get the left frame infill fitted. Bit of a squeeze with all the wires and throttle cable. The SAI is once again proving to be a nuisance. With the bracket for the rad cowl fitted there isn't enough space for the SAI and airbox, so I may have to cut down the rad cowl bracket to fit it all in. I have a bracket on order so I'll know when it arrives.

I got the fuel pump relay recall parts from my dealer and fitted those. So now all the relay posts on top of my airbox are full. Glad about that as I wondered why I had one extra!

I'm getting near to the end of the build, so starting to get a bit excited now. The stickers I ordered have held things up by a week. The first ones they sent me there was a bigger gap between two of the letters compared to the others and it looked well biff. So I got them to redo it. Once I have these I can get the bodywork off to the painters.

Some small jobs to be done now, just tidying things up. The bigger jobs still to do are change the sump, change the exhaust system, fit the Street Triple radiator, get the engine cases powder coated. I'll do all those together as I have to drop all the oil and water out and remove the radiator to get at the exhaust.

 

Can hardly wait to see finished pics.

I canned the SAI, and have had no problems...

 

Can hardly wait to see finished pics.

I canned the SAI, and have had no problems...

I can't wait either!

Did you do anything else apart from removing the SAI and fitting blanking plates?

 

Removed EXUP, O2 sensor and flapper as well.
Didn't fit blank plates, just unscrewed the springs on the reed valves and flipped them, screwed them back together and the valves will never open.

 

Was that the Lambda sensor near the EXUP valve? Did you block the hoses that lead into the reed valves?

Did you have to do anything to the ECU?

 

yes, Lambda/O2 sensor.

I took all the hoses off, but didn't block the holes where the hoses attach...since the reed valves are permanently closed. Eventually I will make some block off plates.

Used the TuneECU program to disable Lambda/O2 sensor, EXUP, and SAI.

 

yes, Lambda/O2 sensor.

I took all the hoses off, but didn't block the holes where the hoses attach...since the reed valves are permanently closed. Eventually I will make some block off plates.

Used the TuneECU program to disable Lambda/O2 sensor, EXUP, and SAI.

Aha! The TuneBoy thing again. Don't know if that is available over here. Thanks for the info.

 

You guys may be interested in some of the riser clip-ons listed here for your projects.

Bar Riser Options for Daytona 675 - Triumph675.Net Forums

 

Day 30

Day 30

Managed to get in the garage for a few hours after work today. I made a protective grille for the air intake on the new bikini fairing mount. There is a large grille in front of this moulded into the bodywork, but I thought I would add to it. I had some old chicken wire in the garage, originally purchased in 1996 (!) when I made a radiator guard for my ZX-7R. As on that bike it's hidden away, so it doesn't need to look pretty. That said, I still sprayed it black anyway. I also made another one for where the bikini fairing mount attaches to the frame intake area. Don't want any large wildlife finding its way into the airbox!

Whilst I had the spray can out I also sprayed the instrument adapter mount so it blends in a bit better and the heavy steel mount brackets that attach the whole plot to the front of the bike, again so they blend in and also to try and stop them rusting. I had to get the grinder on them to finish them off prior to painting.

You can see from the photo where I had to cut away material from the brackets, otherwise there may not have been enough air able to pass into the airbox. In fact there may still be a slight hinderance to the air coming in, but I figure it will make the bike run rich so I shouldn't need to worry. In any case I plan to install a Power Commander and get the bike set up on a Dyno, so that should be able to adjust the fueling to suit.

Did a bit more taping on the mini loom for the headlights and added a plastic cover to the loom that runs to the speedo for waterproofing.

 

Don't waste your money on a power commander!!!!!! The Tune ECU program can adjust fuel as well as ignition, check error codes, plus a whole host of other functions. For free!!!

TuneECU is the best thing since sliced bread.

 

Don't waste your money on a power commander!!!!!! The Tune ECU program can adjust fuel as well as ignition, check error codes, plus a whole host of other functions. For free!!!

TuneECU is the best thing since sliced bread.

I obviously need to look into this option. Thanks again. :thumbup:

 

Day 31

Day 31

More small tidy up type jobs today and a couple of more involved ones.

I trimmed down the bolts that attach the bikini fairing mount to the adapter brackets. The last one took a while as my hacksaw blade went blunt! I had a go at making a tail tidy from the original massive air brake type trellis thing. But it looked well nasty and so I'm going to order an Evo Tech one as they are the nicest I have seen.

I got my bodywork ready for taking to the painters including taking the fuel pump, fuel filler and brackets off the fuel tank. That's all now at the painters, so hopefully I will have some lovely Ford Aquarius Blue bodywork by the weekend. It's the same colour as the blue on my race bike, which you can see below on my signature image. Unlike my race bike (which I painted) it will be nice shinny paintwork. Can't wait to get that back. I'll have to resist the temptation to put it all on before I finish the other bits. It'll be hard though!

OK, on to the bigger jobs. Drain the oil and coolant. First remove the radiator which came off nice and easy. Then onto the exhaust system. The silencer is easy to remove, just two bolts. Then the header pipes. I was expecting these to put up a fight because they are as rusty as a very rusty thing that lives at the bottom of the sea. I know this bike is a 2006 model and has been ridden in all weathers, but it only has 5,000 miles on the clock and the condition of some of the fasteners is disgusting. Check out the shot of the EXUP valve. The cables were seized in. Luckily the replacement system had all these parts already so when I put them on I shall be applying liberal doses of copaslip to try and keep them looking nice and more importantly not seizing up.

Anyway the header pipe nuts came off with no drama and no busted threads on the studs in the head, which was a relief. A couple more nuts undone, remove the Lambda sensor in the exhaust and off the header pipes come, with no drama. Next job was to get the engine cases off for powder coating. Started on the right and all three came off no bother. However in the clutch cover there are two bearings and when powder coating you need to remove bearings, well on wheels anyway. Powder coating is looking less likely now as I'm not going to try and get those bearings out. Then onto the left casing. A bit more effort to move this one. I get it about 10cm away from the gearbox and then it feels like there is something attached. I daren't pull any harder in case I bust something. This isn't good. Time to walk away.

I go straight to my computer and read the service manual. It says the alternator is housed in the casing and when removing you have to pull against the magnets in the alternator. Hmmmm. They must be pretty strong magnets, coz I'm pulling quite hard. I sleep on it.

Next day I pop into my local dealer and ask him. As far as he can remember you just pull it off. Street Tango also said the same thing. When I get home from work it's straight to the bike and give the case a good pull. Off she comes. Relief. I look at the alternator and decide that because of that and the bearings in the other side I'm not getting the cases powder coated. Some rattle cans will do the job. Next job is to get the sump off.

 

Man I love this thread and this project! :notworthy:

 

Thanks Sentinel. Hopefully you'll love the finished article as well!

 

It looks great so far. I cant wait to see it completed.

And thankyou DecepticonDon for posting about TuneECU, I didnt even know it existed. :thumbsup:

 

Cheers Civicdrivr.

 

Went along to the paint shop today to put on my tank stickers. I did it myself so that if I made a mess of it I only had myself to blame. That went well. All the other bits had been lacquered so they just have the tank to do now. They hoped to do it today so that they could leave them all to harden/dry over the weekend. See pic below. Oh, the bikini fairing is in one shot. :1thumbsup2:

 

Rob.
Looking good. I like the colour. Just want to see her all back together.
ATB.
Paul.

 

You and me both. Thanks.

 

Day 32

Day 32

I prepared the engine cases for painting by sanding them lightly and cleaning them. Then I masked the areas not to be painted, which was mainly the gasket sealing surfaces. I decided to go with the gloss black paint as the satin looked a little too matt for my liking. Anyway after I had applied four coats the cases looked nice, but not really gloss, more like satin! Not a good match for the cam cover, so I'll need to but some more gloss and maybe stand a bit closer when spraying!

Next up was to get the sump off. It was an awkward job as I have no bike lift and so had to lie on my back and undo all the bolts. That was OK, although getting the sump to drop took some gentle persuasion. Once off I set about cleaning the old gasket off the lower side of the engine case. This was a tough job lying on my back, but I got there in the end. You think a job like changing a casing will take 5 minutes, but you forget about the time it takes to remove the old gasket. Oh well at least I was lying down on the job! I also had to clean the old gasket off my replacement sump and give it a good clean out to remove any crap that was in there. Just to recap, I'm changing the sump for a later sump which has the extra mountings to hang the bellypan from (see pics). Later Daytonas seem to come with the same sump as the Street Triple. No point in Triumph making two different ones I guess.

I fitted a couple of loom brackets to the inside of the frame (I had to buy one as I lost one!), tidied up my wiring for the flapper valve controller, which is now living next to the battery and tidied up some more of the loom.

Next step was to offer up the Street Triple radiator to see what I would need to fit it. I need to buy the lower bracket which attaches to the front of the engine and just very slightly shorten the top hose that runs into the filler neck. You can see from the pictures the difference between the Daytona (on left) and Street Triple (on right) radiator. The Daytona one is about 50mm longer and has the really high filler neck. As I want to use the Street Triple rad cowls I got the Street Triple radiator so they would be easy to attach, although my main reason was so the tall filler neck of the Daytona rad would not be sticking out the top of the rad cowls. Only riding it will tell me if the Street Triple rad is too small to keep the motor at the right temperature. If it doesn't then the original will have to go back on. I really hope it doesn't come to that.

Almost forgot, should be picking up my bodywork from the painters this week. Can't wait to see that and must remember NOT to fit any of it until I'm finished spannering. Now where can I store it out of harms way?

 

and I keep looking at this thread expecting to see a finished bike.......

 

:wtf:

 

I love the color. Very nice choice.

 

Just visited this thread for first time in awhile. Getting close!!!!

Anxious to see the final product!

 

Patience Boys and Girls, patience. We're in the home straight.

Picked up my bodywork from the paint shop today. Beautiful job.

Wont be doing any work on her this weekend as I'm off on my ZRX1200R with five buddies on a two day raid in Northern France. No 40mph all island limits there! WooHoo! Apart from an hour and a half riding last Sunday, this will be my first time back in the saddle since I did my collar bone in March. In at the deep end or what?

Working the evening shift next week, so plenty of daylight hours to get closer to completion.

 

Looks amazing!!!!!!!!!!! have fun on your trip on the Z-rex....is it blue also?

 

Cheers matey. I nearly got a blue one, but it's a Kawasaki so it had to be green, it's the law!

 

I need to see this after sliding my bike down a winding mountain road at 60mph

 

Day 33

Benroe: Nothing for you to see here, move along.

Day 33

Well I put some more gloss black paint on the four engine cases. This time I managed to get some paint runs on two of them dammit! Cleaned that off reasonably well, but not perfect. The cases have had about six coats at least now and I put more on because the gloss I was using wasn't really coming up as gloss, more of a satin. Well after finishing the second can they still look satin! So that's the look we're having then. I was hoping to match them with the cam cover, but my painting skills obviously leave a lot to be desired. Anyone who has seen the effort on my race bike will testify to that. Best not give up my day job then. Once dry I put the cases back on and they look well. Hopefully they will stand up to use and won't have loads of paint chips within a few miles of riding.

While I was "on the case" I thought I'd put the sump back on. I had got four new "O" rings for the water pump drain tube (see pic) so I fitted those in readiness for the sump. Then I got the new sump gasket out the packet. Hang on a minute! That's not the same as the one fitted by the factory, have I got the correct one? I offered it up and everything lines up. But there is one huge difference. The original is just a gasket that runs along the edges of the casing that join together. The new one does that, but also has a huge flat area going from one side to the sump to the other (see pic) covering half the sump at the front end. I can only guess that this somehow controls oil movement in the sump under acceleration or when pulling wheelies. I have no idea.

Well whatever the reason I can't just fit it straight on because the oil transfer pipe prevents this as it goes through one of the holes. The oil transfer pipe is the silver tube that looks like a door handle hanging from the bottom of the engine (see pic). In order to fit the gasket you have to remove this oil transfer pipe, put it through one of the holes in the gasket and reattach it. No biggie, it's just two 8mm bolts holding it in place. However, where they attach there are "O" rings, which the manual says to replace. Brilliant! Yes I could probably use the old ones, but I don't rally want to be pulling the sump off in the future because they have failed so for the sake of £3 for two new "O" rings I'll replace them. Obviously my dealer has to order these so I have to wait about a week before the sump goes back on. Blast! The workshop manual helpfully says: "If necessary, release the oil transfer pipe fixings and remove the oil transfer pipe". IF NECESSARY? The new gasket ain't going on without taking it off. Who writes this stuff?

OK, on to the next job then. Even though I used the Street Triple throttle cable it is quite tight at full lock. So I have moved the throttle as far down the handlebar as I can. Maybe if I'd used the OE handlebar rather than a Renthal I might not have had this problem. Still, again it's not a biggie, although it means I have some handlebar sticking out the end of the throttle tube, which looks a bit unsightly. Time to get the hacksaw out then. I take about 10mm off each side and once I get some bar end weights fitted that will look fine.

 

Looking smart that man... Keep up the good work...