Interesting ideas there thanks. I don't worry about fuel gauges as I tend to reset the trip meter when I fill up, so I know how far I can go on a tank.

I haven't got clip ons fitted, so no issues there. The bikini fairing seems to be OK mounted to the headstock so I shall be sticking with that. Got it as close as possible and it's looking good.

Did 8 hours solid today in the garage. Only stopped for two bananas and a chocolate bar! Report coming very soon.

 

Just checking in with you to see how it's going. I STILL haven't started with mine yet! Have you mounted the fuses and relays yet and if so where did you put them? How different is the Street airbox cover to the Daytona one?

 

Just checking in with you to see how it's going. I STILL haven't started with mine yet! GOING VERY WELL THANKS

Have you mounted the fuses and relays yet and if so where did you put them? SEE DAY 4 ON PAGE 5

How different is the Street airbox cover to the Daytona one? SEE DAY 1 ON PAGE 2

On holiday in England at the moment. Latest reports will be posted when I get back after 13 June. Be patient boys and girls. we're getting close............

 

Great read! Learned a few things that will save me time in the future!

 

man, this thing should be on the road by now!! hurry up and get it ready for some pics!!

 

How good are you at wielding spanners with a broken collar bone? :blech2:

 

Day 21

Day 21

Sorry for the delay. I got some work done before I went on holiday, but had no time to post an update. Well here it is.

I made a small loom to connect up the headlights. Tested that and it works. Then I taped up the whole of the loom loosely with the protective covering that goes underneath the loom tape (see photo). This is to enable me to go for a shakedown ride. Once I'd done that I fitted the air box and fuel tank. I'm using Street Triple frame infills for the triangular areas behind the headstock. This is where the handlebar cables, ignition, clutch and throttle cables enter the engine side of the frame.

It's now I notice a small problem. With the frame infills fitted there isn't quite enough space for all the block connectors on the wiring as the Secondary Air Induction servo is in the way (see photo). No drama I thought, I'll just bin the whole SAI and fit blanking plates to the cam cover. However! I chatted with Street Tango about this as he has loads of experience with Triumphs. Seems that if you remove the SAI the motor will not run correctly. I can't remember the details, suffice to say I'm not going down that route.

I looked at my problem again and with careful placement of the block connectors I may just fit it all in. I'll come back to this problem later. Right now I just want to get her ready for that shakedown run. The battery is on its last legs and even after charging hasn't got enough power to start the motor, just that annoying "click". So I jump started her off my wifes car and she fired up. WooHoo, Trixie roars once more. Only I have some more problems. The engine light remains lit and the rev counter works sometimes, but not all the time. Hmmmmmmmm. Having thought about it I hope it's just a case of the poor battery power limiting things and the engine light glowing because I disconnected stuff with the battery attached. Either way I have ordered a new battery and once fitted will take the bike to my dealer to get the fault codes read and, fingers crossed, deleted and the light to go off.

I had a little ride around the lane. Just in first gear, but a little ride nonetheless. I'm getting close!

 

OOh lovely. I just noticed you only have three relays. Did your bike ever have the recall where they fitted an extra relay next to the indicator relay? If not it might be worth looking into.

 

There are only the four relays that I moved. The only bit that was next to the indicator relay when it was down on the left side of the engine was the bit for the flapper valve. That is currently blowing in the breeze until I decide to either fit a resistor or just keep it as is.

No other relays. What was this extra relay for?

 

I've sort of figured out that all of the extra cabling they use is pretty pointless but just a quick way of mounting the extra relay on a recall. It'd be easy enough for you I think to chop it into the existing wiring.

 

Thought I'd update my job list:

1. Fit different headlights/bikini fairing. Requires a custom made bracket. DONE

2. Re-direct the wiring loom. DONE

3. Fit Street Triple yokes and handlebars. DONE

4. Fit Street Triple throttle & clutch cables. DONE CLUTCH

5. Lengthen wiring from handlebars. NOT NEEDED

6. Relocate the relays and fuse box that live inside left fairing panel. DONE

7. Remove all bits associated with flapper valve. DONE

8. Relocate indicator relay from behind radiator. DONE

9. Relocate flip switch from in front of speedo. DONE

10. Get rid of horrible brown (A) engine covers
(B) cam cover DONE

11. Repaint (A) bike
(B) wheels DONE

12. Fit mirrors.

13. Loads of other stuff I hadn't anticipated!!!!

13a. Make brackets to fit bellypan.

13b. Make bracket to mount speedo on bikini fairing. DONE

13c. Fit new indicators.

13d. Tape up loom once road tested.

13e. Fit resistor to flapper valve wiring.

13f. Fit longer brake line on front brake. DONE

13g. More stuff I hadn't anticipated!

 

You can look up & see whether your bike's VIN is on Triumph's recall list for that relay.

 

have you got any full bike shots?

Sam

 

Bike is a little tucked away at the moment. However I shan't be doing any full bike shots until she is finished, which includes being painted. I want her to be seen as I intended, in her full glory. Be patient, that time is coming soon. :coolgleamA:

 

Day 22

Day 22

When fitting my bikini fairing I noticed that the metal adapter plates I have made severely limit the air coming through the headstock intake. As such I have had to cut parts of the brackets away to allow the air to flow as freely as possible. It shouldn't weaken the brackets as they are made from 6mm steel.

I fitted the new front brake hose which is the OE hose from a Street Triple R as it uses the same set up as the Daytona. Although the handlebars I've fitted are very similar to the Street Triple OE bars, the brake hose does seem to be only just long enough. I have checked the length by raising the front wheel off the ground to get the suspension at full extension and it isn't pulling on the connections, so it should be OK. While the hoses were disconnected I cleaned the calipers thoroughly. I was surprised to see a little pitting in the brake pistons. The bike has only done about 4,000 miles (admittedly in any weather) so this seems a bit premature. I made a very temporary bracket to hold the front brake fluid reservoir. After that I bled the brakes.

I mounted the forks flush with the yoke. I know that the Street Triple has them about 5mm above the yoke, but as I have no steering damper fitted now I thought I go for the laziest steering to start with to avoid any possible tank slappers. Fine tweaking of the handling is further down the road.

As I was off to the UK with the van I thought I would deliver my wheels personally to the powder coaters. As such I had to remove the bearings and give the wheels a good clean. The bearings came out quite easily. I'm sure putting the new ones in wont be as simple!

 

bikini fairing?? hmmm...you need to post up some pics (or send me some) so I may copy your work. I love bikini fairings!!

 

:laugh::laugh::laugh: That's why there have been no pictures of the bikini fairing I'm using. I want mine finished before anybody else copies it. But you don't really want to copy it do you? Be original.

 

not a straight up copy. but if I like it I might do something similar.

 

Day 23

Day 23

I have my wheels back and they are now perfect Essex Girl style: white. Yeah I know, they will be a pig to keep clean, but I like them. I fitted the new bearings and discs to the front wheel and it wasn't as bad as I thought. Then I went to do the rear wheel, only to realise I didn't have a suitable tool to knock the new bearings in. I'd used an old imperial socket to do the front ones, but I have nothing big enough for the rear. I basically need a socket with an outside diameter of 45mm, so I had to go off to the tool shop to buy a cheap socket.

Properly tooled up now, so got the bearings in for the rear wheel. Fitted the discs back on and then took them down to the garage to get some new rubber put on. I went for the new Metzeler Sportec M5 as they had good reviews and I have used Metzeler race tyres (Racetecs) for a number of years and really like them. I didn't realise until I got them that they are the tyres with the lean meter moulded into the rubber. Well funny. Once back home I refitted the wheels.

After that I just did some small jobs. Fitted some new indicators to the front fairing. Gone for some Motrax short stem arrow with normal bulbs. Did think about LED bulbs, but most seem to come with clear lenses, which I don't like and also I didn't want the hassle of having to wire in a relay to make sure they flash at the correct speed.

I once again pondered that gap above the speedo. I still haven't got a solution, but I'm sure something will occur to me eventually. Fitted the Street Triple brackets that hold on the brake and clutch levers. Just the rear section that clamps to the handlebar as it has the thread to fit mirrors. Had thought about bar end mirrors, but decided I don't like them. I actually don't like mirrors on a bike full stop. Spoils the looks in my opinion. I don't use them on the Island, but fit them when I pop over to France, where the make life easier at the higher speeds over there, plus you have to have them.

That's it for a week as me and Mrs Ruby Racing are going to France to chill out. Bit of a shame as I have the new battery now and I'm ready for the first shakedown run. Just got to get those fault codes cleared first. That reminds me, must book the bike into the dealer to have that done when I get back. It might be a weeks holiday, but it's going to be a long week thinking about that first ride!

 

hey, those look familiar!! don't forget to do the drive hub. that really finishes it off. nobody on here seems to do that part of the wheel.

 

Ruby you're a star. This thread is helping me no end. I'm really stuck into the wiring part of mine now and am looking forward to getting it at least road worthy so I can finish the nuts and bolts later. I'm not rushing to do the handlebars so will see if I like it with the helibars.

I've come across the same problem as you with the connector blocks and aren't sure how you got them to fit. I trimmed the rubbish from the back of the plastic triangles and am using the Daytona fairing bracket to hold the servo (btw I'm doing mine so I can swap it back to Daytona in a couple of hours if I want).

I also find it astounding the way they've wired the Daytona knowing full well they were going to build a naked version. The extra groove where the other part of loom goes on the airbox gives it away as well as the captive nuts for the relay brackets. I've found just the bracket at a breakers btw for £15. Bit steep for a bit of metal but I need it. I had my first proper look at a Street today. I asked my local dealer if I could look and took lots of helpful photos.

I know it's not very useful to you now but just last night I was warned about the use of solder on bikes. My very own motorcycling oracle (has a ZX6r still going strong after 120k miles!) told me that after x amount of time problems may occur due to the fact that the solder is hard and the wire either side is soft and vibes may cause them to break. He also said that it will in time rot. I was told that you will only find solder in sealed units and since stripping my loom I've found that even where common cables meet Triumph use a brass crimp. I've been doing my own reserach since and it seems that the solder/crimp argument has been going as long as the chicken and the egg argument.

Hope you're having fun in France! Can't wait to see your finished article.

P.S. I asked in the dealershiop if they'd still honour the fuel pump relay recall and he said yes without hesitation. There used to be a recall section on their website but it's changed since. If you want to do it I'd give a dealer a ring.

 

Ruby you're a star. This thread is helping me no end. I'm really stuck into the wiring part of mine now and am looking forward to getting it at least road worthy so I can finish the nuts and bolts later. I'm not rushing to do the handlebars so will see if I like it with the helibars.

I've come across the same problem as you with the connector blocks and aren't sure how you got them to fit. I trimmed the rubbish from the back of the plastic triangles and am using the Daytona fairing bracket to hold the servo (btw I'm doing mine so I can swap it back to Daytona in a couple of hours if I want).

I also find it astounding the way they've wired the Daytona knowing full well they were going to build a naked version. The extra groove where the other part of loom goes on the airbox gives it away as well as the captive nuts for the relay brackets. I've found just the bracket at a breakers btw for £15. Bit steep for a bit of metal but I need it. I had my first proper look at a Street today. I asked my local dealer if I could look and took lots of helpful photos.

I know it's not very useful to you now but just last night I was warned about the use of solder on bikes. My very own motorcycling oracle (has a ZX6r still going strong after 120k miles!) told me that after x amount of time problems may occur due to the fact that the solder is hard and the wire either side is soft and vibes may cause them to break. He also said that it will in time rot. I was told that you will only find solder in sealed units and since stripping my loom I've found that even where common cables meet Triumph use a brass crimp. I've been doing my own reserach since and it seems that the solder/crimp argument has been going as long as the chicken and the egg argument.

Hope you're having fun in France! Can't wait to see your finished article.

P.S. I asked in the dealershiop if they'd still honour the fuel pump relay recall and he said yes without hesitation. There used to be a recall section on their website but it's changed since. If you want to do it I'd give a dealer a ring.

LOL Thanks. But you may well curse me later! Don't forget to post your progress on here for all to see. I'm very interested to follow your progress.

Haven't sorted the connector block problem yet, but think I can squeeze it all in. Hope to attack that next week after the shakedown ride.

Hmm. Not sure they did have the Street Triple in mind when they built the Daytona. I hear what you say about the air filter top, but I have a 2006 model, probably one of the very first and it doesn't have the lugs on the sump to fit the belly pan. If you look at later Daytona's they have the lugs on their sumps. But they probably did as the lead time for new models is a few years.

I thought the same about soldering. I'm hoping that when I finally tape the loom up nice and tight it may prevent the cracking. If not then I'll just have to re wire the bits I soldered with new wires. With my new found skills this isn't as scary as it was before I started.

Will have a chat with my dealer. Maybe the very first bikes weren't affected? Will check though.

Having a great time in France. But would prefer to be spannering! Nah, enjoying the sun and helping the collar bone to heal up I'm sure. A lot going on in my head, but it's for my next project!!! Won't be on this site though as it's a Kawasaki transformation. I've got the bug.

Good luck with yours.

 

Day 24

Day 24

Back from a scorchio week lazing in France. Back to work! Put my new battery on charge as soon as I got home, so it would be ready today. Fitted it and checked all the connections. Everything seems in place. Turned the key and she instantly pops into life. Now the starter button. Woohoo! She fires up first time. What is even better is the engine light is no longer on so a trip to the dealer to check the error codes is averted. I guess the old battery was what was causing the engine light to light up.

However one small problem does remain. The rev counter needle sometimes takes a fraction of a second to react when you rev the engine. Also it sometimes shows the tick over at about 1,000rpm. But rev it a few times and the needle sits at about 100rpm so not sure what is going on there. Maybe something I have done with the re-wiring perhaps? Had a search on this forum and can't find an answer. Had a little ride down the road and back, just about 400 metres in second gear. Then I made her a bit more suitable for a decent ride. Fitted an over flow bottle for the radiator. I used a Bud Light aluminium beer bottle. This is only temporary until I get a decent alternative. Have something particular in mind, just not ordered it yet. Rather fittingly I picked up this Bud Light bottle from the stands at Daytona Speedway in Florida in March. Cool huh? OK, maybe not.

Tidied up some of the dangling wiring and taped the intake flapper solenoid to the sub frame. I may retain this part rather than putting a resistor in its place as I have been advised that some resistors can't handle current or something like that. It's no biggie as, well, it's not big, so I can stash it under the tank. I'll junk the hoses though. Did another bolt check. One on the radiator was a bit loose.

By the time I had done all that it was 5pm and I didn't go out as I didn't want to get caught up in the work traffic. Ride postponed 'till Tuesday morning. I need the roads clear as I have new tyres to scrub in, a bike I have modified (so anything could happen) and I'm recovering from a broken collar bone and haven't ridden since the end of March. It's 1am, I best get some sleep!

Day 25

The eagerly anticipated test ride day. I got myself suited and booted, the first time since my crash at the end of March. Blimey those leathers feel stiff when your arm doesn't work properly. Wheeled the bike out and hit the starter button. WHAT! You're shittin' me! "CLICK" was the only sound I heard. That's a brand new battery put in yesterday. WTF? Bike back in garage and put on charge for an hour. Had a chat with Hyperdrive and he suggested something was drawing current with the ignition off. Told me how to test it. I did and there did seem to be something drawing current. As my volt meter is mucho cheapo it just has a dial so I couldn't tell how bad it was. Not that it would make any difference as I don't understand what it all means anyway, the needle moved that's all I know. Looks like I have a problem to solve.

Well with bike charged I managed to start her and gingerly set off. I took it very easy in case something important fell off, like a wheel or the handlebars! All felt together. But seems to be lots of noises that possibly shouldn't be there. I dunno as I can't remember what she sounded like when I rode her last October. Should have worn my ear plugs LOL!

Mindful of the new tyres and dodgy collarbone I took it pretty easy all the way to Gorey. Stopped and gave her a quick once over. All seems to be there. Set off back home and gave it a bit more gas. Even with the standard can she sounds nice. Upshot of the whole ride was she seems to ride just fine and I'm very happy/relieved. I need to set up the suspension as I think the preload is a bit too much at both ends and the compression and damping need increasing at both ends. That much I knew from my track day on her last year. She dives like a theatrical footballer (soccer player for our Colonial cousins) on the brakes and then boings back up again. But that fine tuning can wait until she's is properly finished and running without problems.

Dropped by at Hyperdrives place on the way back and he did his electrical test (thanks Hyperdrive) with his digital meter. The current draw from the battery with the ignition off is 1.2 milli amps and he assures me this is nothing. He even did the same test on his 2009 Daytona and the result was identical. So if nothing is drawing current from the battery when the ignition is off, what's going on? He suggested that I needed to put the new battery on charge for about 48 hours. I had done it until the green light lit up on my Optimate III charger, which was overnight. Once refitted I'll leave the bike untouched for a couple of days before starting her again to see if she starts. If she doesn't.......................

 

Show us the front, show us the front, show us the front!

 

Show us the front, show us the front, show us the front!

I don't hear the magic word!

 

Perleeeeeeeeeease?

Here's mine so far

 

Perleeeeeeeeeease?

Here's mine so far

You shouldn't need to asked, but I'll let you off this one time.

Here you go:

 

You're twisting my melons man.

 

Patience my young Padowan. Use The Force to see through the helmet.

 

Looking good!!! I just began stripping my Daytona this past week.

 

Cheers dude.

 

Hi. Got some recent shots of the tango

 

Looking good!

Any shots of the left side?

 

Ruby, that's a pretty high standard to meet....

 

Certainly is, they've done a great job. But I feel up to it, my aim was to have a "factory" finish to my project. Anyway, you lot can decide once I've finished.

 

tango, what kind of clip ons do you have??

 

If my memory serves me correctly they are the standard ones, turned upside down and put on the opposite fork. If not someone else has certainly done that.

 

it looks like he has the clipons above the top triple tree