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Discussion starter · #183 ·
It looks great so far. I cant wait to see it completed.

And thankyou DecepticonDon for posting about TuneECU, I didnt even know it existed. :thumbsup:
Cheers Civicdrivr.
 
Discussion starter · #184 · (Edited)
Went along to the paint shop today to put on my tank stickers. I did it myself so that if I made a mess of it I only had myself to blame. That went well. All the other bits had been lacquered so they just have the tank to do now. They hoped to do it today so that they could leave them all to harden/dry over the weekend. See pic below. Oh, the bikini fairing is in one shot. :1thumbsup2:
 
Discussion starter · #187 · (Edited)
Day 32

Day 32

I prepared the engine cases for painting by sanding them lightly and cleaning them. Then I masked the areas not to be painted, which was mainly the gasket sealing surfaces. I decided to go with the gloss black paint as the satin looked a little too matt for my liking. Anyway after I had applied four coats the cases looked nice, but not really gloss, more like satin! Not a good match for the cam cover, so I'll need to but some more gloss and maybe stand a bit closer when spraying!

Next up was to get the sump off. It was an awkward job as I have no bike lift and so had to lie on my back and undo all the bolts. That was OK, although getting the sump to drop took some gentle persuasion. Once off I set about cleaning the old gasket off the lower side of the engine case. This was a tough job lying on my back, but I got there in the end. You think a job like changing a casing will take 5 minutes, but you forget about the time it takes to remove the old gasket. Oh well at least I was lying down on the job! I also had to clean the old gasket off my replacement sump and give it a good clean out to remove any crap that was in there. Just to recap, I'm changing the sump for a later sump which has the extra mountings to hang the bellypan from (see pics). Later Daytonas seem to come with the same sump as the Street Triple. No point in Triumph making two different ones I guess.

I fitted a couple of loom brackets to the inside of the frame (I had to buy one as I lost one!), tidied up my wiring for the flapper valve controller, which is now living next to the battery and tidied up some more of the loom.

Next step was to offer up the Street Triple radiator to see what I would need to fit it. I need to buy the lower bracket which attaches to the front of the engine and just very slightly shorten the top hose that runs into the filler neck. You can see from the pictures the difference between the Daytona (on left) and Street Triple (on right) radiator. The Daytona one is about 50mm longer and has the really high filler neck. As I want to use the Street Triple rad cowls I got the Street Triple radiator so they would be easy to attach, although my main reason was so the tall filler neck of the Daytona rad would not be sticking out the top of the rad cowls. Only riding it will tell me if the Street Triple rad is too small to keep the motor at the right temperature. If it doesn't then the original will have to go back on. I really hope it doesn't come to that.

Almost forgot, should be picking up my bodywork from the painters this week. Can't wait to see that and must remember NOT to fit any of it until I'm finished spannering. Now where can I store it out of harms way?
 

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Discussion starter · #193 · (Edited)
Patience Boys and Girls, patience. We're in the home straight.

Picked up my bodywork from the paint shop today. Beautiful job.

Wont be doing any work on her this weekend as I'm off on my ZRX1200R with five buddies on a two day raid in Northern France. No 40mph all island limits there! WooHoo! Apart from an hour and a half riding last Sunday, this will be my first time back in the saddle since I did my collar bone in March. In at the deep end or what?

Working the evening shift next week, so plenty of daylight hours to get closer to completion.
 
Discussion starter · #195 · (Edited)
Looks amazing!!!!!!!!!!! have fun on your trip on the Z-rex....is it blue also?
Cheers matey. I nearly got a blue one, but it's a Kawasaki so it had to be green, it's the law!
 
Discussion starter · #197 · (Edited)
Day 33

Benroe: Nothing for you to see here, move along.

Day 33

Well I put some more gloss black paint on the four engine cases. This time I managed to get some paint runs on two of them dammit! Cleaned that off reasonably well, but not perfect. The cases have had about six coats at least now and I put more on because the gloss I was using wasn't really coming up as gloss, more of a satin. Well after finishing the second can they still look satin! So that's the look we're having then. I was hoping to match them with the cam cover, but my painting skills obviously leave a lot to be desired. Anyone who has seen the effort on my race bike will testify to that. Best not give up my day job then. Once dry I put the cases back on and they look well. Hopefully they will stand up to use and won't have loads of paint chips within a few miles of riding.

While I was "on the case" I thought I'd put the sump back on. I had got four new "O" rings for the water pump drain tube (see pic) so I fitted those in readiness for the sump. Then I got the new sump gasket out the packet. Hang on a minute! That's not the same as the one fitted by the factory, have I got the correct one? I offered it up and everything lines up. But there is one huge difference. The original is just a gasket that runs along the edges of the casing that join together. The new one does that, but also has a huge flat area going from one side to the sump to the other (see pic) covering half the sump at the front end. I can only guess that this somehow controls oil movement in the sump under acceleration or when pulling wheelies. I have no idea.

Well whatever the reason I can't just fit it straight on because the oil transfer pipe prevents this as it goes through one of the holes. The oil transfer pipe is the silver tube that looks like a door handle hanging from the bottom of the engine (see pic). In order to fit the gasket you have to remove this oil transfer pipe, put it through one of the holes in the gasket and reattach it. No biggie, it's just two 8mm bolts holding it in place. However, where they attach there are "O" rings, which the manual says to replace. Brilliant! Yes I could probably use the old ones, but I don't rally want to be pulling the sump off in the future because they have failed so for the sake of £3 for two new "O" rings I'll replace them. Obviously my dealer has to order these so I have to wait about a week before the sump goes back on. Blast! The workshop manual helpfully says: "If necessary, release the oil transfer pipe fixings and remove the oil transfer pipe". IF NECESSARY? The new gasket ain't going on without taking it off. Who writes this stuff?

OK, on to the next job then. Even though I used the Street Triple throttle cable it is quite tight at full lock. So I have moved the throttle as far down the handlebar as I can. Maybe if I'd used the OE handlebar rather than a Renthal I might not have had this problem. Still, again it's not a biggie, although it means I have some handlebar sticking out the end of the throttle tube, which looks a bit unsightly. Time to get the hacksaw out then. I take about 10mm off each side and once I get some bar end weights fitted that will look fine.
 

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Discussion starter · #199 · (Edited)
Day 34

Benroe: STILL Nothing for you to see here, move along.

Day 34

The "O" rings came in for the oil transfer pipe so back on went the sump. Bit of a hard job lying on your back, but got there in the end.

Whilst I had the exhaust off I decided to whip the shock out, give it a good clean and re-grease the bearings in the linkages. Not a great deal of grease in the bearings, so the guy who does it at the factory obviously doesn't stand too close! LOL. Shoved that back in and torqued up the bolts.

Next up was the replacement exhaust to go on. It's absolutely standard (I like a stealth approach on the road and I really like the three outlets), just in much better condition (it actually shines) than the original, which will be finding it's way onto eBay in due course. Luckily it came with all the EXUP gubbins as the original wires that attached to the actual valve in the exhaust had corroded into the disc where they attach. Set that up as per the workshop manual, although it does say to plug in the diagnostic equipment to do some checks. Don't have one of those. That was all a pretty quick job.

Now it was time to fit the Street Triple radiator. A second hand buy off eBay so hopefully it works fine with no leaks. I had to fit new hoses to the two lower outlets as the Daytona ones are just about an inch too short. Once fitted I put in a litre of coolant. I hadn't checked how much was needed, but it came to the top of the rad.

I have removed the Daytona expansion bottle for the radiator as it is an ugly white object that is on show with the fairings removed and really spoils the party. I had bought a beautifully made purpose built expansion bottle for project bikes, but it was too big to fit where I wanted it. I went on a hunt for an alternative and came up with one of those aluminium bottles they use in hairdressers to spray water (see pic). It is only a 250ml capacity so I hope that is going to be big enough. I got a black one so it will blend in behind the rad cowls. It's mounted on the left side, just behind the radiator. It attaches to the frame and the lower fluid outlet with a combination of cable ties and jubilee clips. The jubilee clips will get the black paint treatment in due course, once I know the bottle is up to the job (see pic).

I used the original tubing that exited the filler neck and just cut it down to size using the 90 degree bend to make life easy. This tube runs all the way to the bottom of the expansion bottle. The clear tube is the overflow and just drops into the neck of the bottle. This will be replaced for a black rubber one, again once I know the bottle can do the job.

With the radiator fitted I could now put on the radiator grill. This is an Evotech item and beautifully made. It fitted in a couple of minutes and was a dead easy job. I recommend that whatever bike you have you fit a rad guard. I bought a ZX-7R new in 1996 and within 500 miles I had dents in the fins from stones thrown up by the front wheel. I don't know why the factories don't fit them as standard.

Next job was to fill the engine with some new oil. The manual said 3 litres after a full engine strip. Well it pretty much was. That said it still didn't come to the full mark on the dip stick. I read recently that the ParkinGo race team in the World Supersport championship put more oil than recommended in their race bikes. With the oil issues I've read about on this forum and in the bike magazines this may be a good idea, although we obviously don't ride as hard, it might be a good idea.

At this point I realised that there wasn't really much left to do, so I thought it was time to put the bike back together and see if she would fire up. So on with the airbox, put all the fuses and relays in place on the back of the airbox, then fit the tank. I was trying to be as careful as possible with my newly painted tank. Guess what? I still managed to scratch it. Arse! Luckily it was just the lower edge right next to the frame, so you can't really see it. I had a touch up bottle from when I painted my race bike so I put a couple of dabs of that on. I'm still a dickhead though.

I bolted the bikini fairing mount on and attached the speedo, then the lights and bikini fairing. Oh I had also fitted an Evotech tail tidy. Again beautifully made, but not happy with the way it traps the wires against the silencer. Possibility of the wires melting. I was concerned so I've fired off an email to Evotech. No reply yet after two days. I made sure all indicators, lights, etc were connected. Now for the moment of truth. Turn the key and everything lights up and things start whirring. All sounds normal so far. Brace yourself. I thumb the starter. Nothing. My heart sinks. I've been here before, after I modified the loom. I turn it off and then on again. That's what you do with computers, might work. Nothing. Not even a click. Off and on again a couple more times, but still nothing. A few choice four letter expletives. Then it dawns on me. Don't you need to pull the clutch in with these puppies? I pull the clutch in and press the button. BINGO! Fires up straight away. Thank f@&k for that. What a numpty. I've only ridden this bike a few times and that was some months ago, so I'm not conditioned yet to her ways.

The exhaust is a bit smokey and also seems to be spitting out some water. Hmmmm. That's not good. I leave her to tick over as I want to check for any leaks from the cases, sump, oil filter, water hoses and radiator so put some newspaper under the engine to make leaks easier to see. After about 5 minutes the temperature bars are at normal of 5 bars. Then she goes up to 6. The fan kicks in. Nice to see that is working OK. Then she is on 7 bars. That's not good, so I turn her off. Is the Street Triple radiator too small for the job? Hang on, I put in 1 litre of coolant. What if that was not enough? This time I check the manual. She needs 2.4 litres. Yeah, 1 litre isn't enough, duh. Another litre goes in. No room for the final point four though, she's brimmed. I fire her up again. This time she goes as high as 6 bars and the fan cuts in and brings the temperature down to 5 bars. That's more like it.

The smokey exhaust has disappeared so hopefully that was just from the cases, sump and radiator coming off and a bit of oil and water getting in the combustion chamber, which has burnt off. One problem is back though. The rev counter initially sits at the tick over speed of about 1,000rpm, but when you rev it the needle is not smooth in its action and then drops to zero rpm at tick over, even though it clearly isn't. Last time this happened before my shake down runs it seemed to sort itself out so hopefully it will again.

Apart from the rev counter everything seems to be working OK and nothing has leaked from the motor. So far so good.

With the bike back in the garage I attempt to spin the plastic hose that comes out of the master cylinder so I can connect it to the brake fluid reservoir in its new position the same as a Street Triple R. This moves easier than expected, however the rubber hose I have is not long enough for the job. I need to order one, so that will hold things up again. Blast!
 
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