what better way to spend winter then to watch someone build a bike:cool2:

 

If you don't like the ugly lights, which are you going with?

 

Don't wish to appear difficult, but I'd rather not say at the moment. I want to make sure I can get them to fit and anyway, it would spoil the surprise! What I will say is that they are from another bike and are fitted in a bikini fairing. So strictly speaking this will not be a Streetfighter.

 

If I was starting a project like this, these are the headlights that I would go with http://www.spieglerusa.com/UrbanHeadlight/. Good luck with the bike and can't wait to see the progress.

 

If I was starting a project like this, these are the headlights that I would with http://www.spieglerusa.com/UrbanHeadlight/. Good luck with the bike and can't wait to see the progress.

That is a cool headlight. I like the doubles ala the Speed Triple but I certainly agree with Ruby Racing that the Daytona's got a nicer rear end than the Streety.

Good luck!

 

Good luck and have fun! Sounds like a great winter project.
Kind of 50/50 about the dual headlights. But it would be great to see a triple with a different headlight arrangement.:thumbup:

 

I'm definitely in to see the outcome and progress of this project, but I could never bring myself to do that to a D675.

Good luck to you

 

I'm in...

 

that Spiegler light reminds me of the Ducati Street Fighter... which kind of fits with your title

 

Sounds like a pretty fun project.

I sincerely hope that you don't go with the spiegler headlight. That thing is ugly, imho.

I don't know why people knock the twin headlights on the streety...
I suppose you could just go with 1, like the guy who turned his 2010 SE into a Street Triple...

Excited to see the progress!

 

Thanks for all the good luck vibes. I'm definitely gonna need them. Hope you all like the end product, but as it's my vision I'm sure some will not like it. That's cool though.

 

So here is my job list:

1. Fit different headlights/bikini fairing.

2. Re-direct the wiring loom.

3. Fit Street Triple yokes and handlebars.

4. Fit Street Triple throttle & clutch cables.

5. Lengthen wiring from handlebars.

6. Relocate the relays and fuse box that live inside left fairing panel.

7. Remove all bits associated with flapper valve.

8. Relocate indicator relay from behind radiator.

9. Relocate flip switch from in front of speedo.

10. Get rid of horrible brown engine covers and cam cover.

11. Repaint bike and wheels.

12. Fit mirrors.

13. Loads of other stuff I hadn't anticipated!!!!

My ultimate aim is for the bike to look "Factory". I realise this is a pretty high expectation of myself as I have never done this kind of thing before. But if people look at it and don't realise it's converted, I will be well happy. Time will tell.

Coming shortly: Part 1.

 

Project Trixie Transformation - DAY 1

Day 1

I got myself a Street Triple top yoke, so it was time to see if it would mate to the Daytona bottom yoke. Not a chance! Close, but no cigar. It's about 2mm out.

Here are the factory figures for the rake and trail of all three 675's:

Daytona 675
rake 23.9 degrees
trail 89.1mm

Street Triple
rake 24.3 degrees
trail 95.3mm

Street Triple R
rake 23.9 degrees
trail 92.4mm

I would suggest that the rake is set within the headstock and is different between the Daytona frame and the Street Triple frame. As the Street Triple R has the same rake as the Daytona then it seems reasonable to assume the Street Triple R uses the same headstock angle/internals as the Daytona.

However the trail figures differ between all three bikes. But the Street Triple and the Street Triple R use exactly the same top and bottom yoke (the part numbers are the same on the dealers computer), so this might explain the different trail figures. I have ignored any change in ride height that might effect the trail figure.

Enough assumptions on my part. If I get a Street Triple lower yoke will it just slide straight in? The answer is yes. So first big problem solved. So if you are considering this conversion then (unless you modify the Daytona top yoke) you MUST fit the bottom yoke from the Street Triple also. You can use top and bottom yokes from either a Street Triple or Street Triple R as they are exactly the same part numbers.

I have attached a picture of the Street Triple top yoke placed over the top of the Daytona top yoke fitted to the bike so you can see how close it is to fitting. Also is a picture of the Street Triple bottom yoke (on the left) next to the Daytona bottom yoke. It's hard to see, but there is a slight difference in angle.

Next picture shows the relays and fuse box that need to be relocated from the left side of the bike. Then a picture of the vaccum canister next to the radiator which needs to go. From what others who have done this conversion have said it can be junked without any worries as it does nothing. It's connected to the flapper valve and that is just there to help the bike pass noise tests. What a complex, weighty addition and huge waste of time!

The next picture shows the existing air box cover. The last picture shows an air box cover from a Street Triple. On the lower edge are brackets for fitting the relays, fuse box and flip switch. It goes straight on, although the underside is slightly different in one area, but I don't think it will be and issue.

That's all for now.

 

Day 1

I got myself a Street Triple top yoke, so it was time to see if it would mate to the Daytona bottom yoke. Not a chance! Close, but no cigar. It's about 2mm out.

Here are the factory figures for the rake and trail of all three 675's:

Daytona 675
rake 23.9 degrees
trail 89.1mm

Street Triple
rake 24.3 degrees
trail 95.3mm

Street Triple R
rake 23.9 degrees
trail 92.4mm

I would suggest that the rake is set within the headstock and is different between the Daytona frame and the Street Triple frame. As the Street Triple R has the same rake as the Daytona then it seems reasonable to assume the Street Triple R uses the same headstock angle/internals as the Daytona.

However the trail figures differ between all three bikes. But the Street Triple and the Street Triple R use exactly the same top and bottom yoke (the part numbers are the same on the dealers computer), so this might explain the different trail figures. I have ignored any change in ride height that might effect the trail figure.

Enough assumptions on my part. If I get a Street Triple lower yoke will it just slide straight in? The answer is yes. So first big problem solved. So if you are considering this conversion then (unless you modify the Daytona top yoke) you MUST fit the bottom yoke from the Street Triple also. You can use top and bottom yokes from either a Street Triple or Street Triple R as they are exactly the same part numbers.

I have attached a picture of the Street Triple top yoke placed over the top of the Daytona top yoke fitted to the bike so you can see how close it is to fitting. Also is a picture of the Street Triple bottom yoke (on the left) next to the Daytona bottom yoke. It's hard to see, but there is a slight difference in angle.

Next picture shows the relays and fuse box that need to be relocated from the left side of the bike. Then a picture of the vaccum canister next to the radiator which needs to go. From what others who have done this conversion have said it can be junked without any worries as it does nothing. It's connected to the flapper valve and that is just there to help the bike pass noise tests. What a complex, weighty addition and huge waste of time!

The next picture shows the existing air box cover. The last picture shows an air box cover from a Street Triple. On the lower edge are brackets for fitting the relays, fuse box and flip switch. It goes straight on, although the underside is slightly different in one area, but I don't think it will be and issue.

That's all for now.

Hey thanks for this awesome thread. Could you recomend a place to purchase the triple clamps? Having trouble for some reason and not sure trustworthy sites. I'm converting the handle bars and I know you said the street triple R triple clamps can be used to swap out the daytona ones.

 

It's pretty interesting how many "minor" little differences there are. I wonder if anyone has done just the opposite, and added fairings/clip-ons to their Street Triple, while keeping the tail section?

 

If you want to swap the forks and brakes/master cylinder with my Street Triple so you can get the rake and trail exactly right, please let me know!

 

I know that that D675 has the forced intake, and that the air intake is in the front. I'm wondering how different the Street Triple would be in this respect. I'm wondering where and how the air inlet is located on the Street Triple. Does anyone know?

 

Where the Daytona's is, just hidden under the headlight bracket.

 

Ooo, I like where this is going. Thanks for the pictures and details. Looks like an exciting project.

 

Looks like an expensive build. LOL

 

Hopefully not. Already got some eBay bargains and I plan to sell off the stuff I don't need anymore like yokes, bodywork, headlights, clip-ons, etc. Plus I'm doing it all myself, so saving there. The only job I wont do is the re-spray once the conversion is complete. My painting is rubbish.

 

Project Trixie Transformation - DAY 2

Day 2

Few jobs I got done today. First off was to ditch the air intake, the pesky flapper valve and associated vacuum canister and wiring and tubing connected to it. It all came off pretty easy. Going off what I have learnt from others on this forum I can ditch the electric box which is connected to the vacuum canister, but I have to put a 47 ohm resister in its place. That's a bit further down the road at this time, so we'll come back to that.

The tube that connects up to the throttle bodies/injector assembly needs to come off and I have again followed the advice of others on this forum and plugged the inlet to the throttle bodies. I can barely see where it connects, so no photos. But what I did was to cut a short section of the rubber tubing, about 3cm long, plugged one end with a screw, then fitted this small bit of tubing back onto the throttle body. Hopefully that will do the job. The screw is too big to get sucked into the metal hose attachment, so I figure the worst that can happen is the hose falls off. Photo of the tubing and screw below.

I have removed the radiator overflow bottle as it looks a bit nasty on show to the world. I plan to get a Street Triple overflow bottle as this sits under the seat, behind the battery. Only seen one on eBay so far and it was silly money. I could get a new one for the same amount.

An eBay bargain arrived today. I bought a brand new cam cover in black for..............get this................ £3.21! Can you believe that? I'll put that on when I change the throttle cables over.

Right. Time to start what I think will be the biggest job: re-directing the loom. Not been looking forward to this bit, but deep breath and get stuck in. I didn't realise undoing sticky tape could take so long. More fiddly than you would think. I was also being careful so I didn't damage any wires.

I got to the relays and fuse box and unwrapped them. Then my heart sunk. A few choice swear words and the shocking realisation that I may have taken on more than I can cope with. I thought, having no understanding of these things, that once I had the loom tape off I could just move the fuse box and relays to their new home under the fuel tank, on top of the air box. WRONG! They connect with other parts at the front of the bike, like the handlebar controls and speedo. This means I have to cut wires, a lot of wires!

I stared at it for a long time, hoping that it would magically fix itself. Strangely it didn't. I think I need to walk away and have a think. In fact, I'll sleep on it.

A few more choice swear words.

 

I wonder if you can fit the radiator side covers from the Street Triple?

 

Already in my plans. I haven't checked it out properly yet but I will need to find a way of screwing the the cowls into the side of the rad. Can't be too big a problem: weld on some sort of brackets to the side of the rad.

The thing that will spoil things a bit is the filler neck for the rad is quite high on the Daytona. The Street Triple R is much lower and is hidden by the rad cowls. I will have to cut a hole in the top of the rad cowl in order to make it fit. Not happy about this solution. The only way I can solve it is to buy a Street Triple R radiator, but that won't be cheap, so not going down that route.

I can't really use a rad from a standard Street Triple as it has the filler neck on the right hand side CORRECTION. I AM WRONG. I WAS LOOKING AT AN ONLINE PARTS MICROFICHE AND IT SHOWED THE FILLER ON THE RIGHT OF THE BIKE. IT ISN'T IT'S THE SAME SIDE AS THE 675. SO A SECONDHAND RADIATOR MAY BE AN OPTION ALTHOUGH THE STREET TRIPLE ONE IS SLIGHTLY SMALLER, whereas the R and Daytona have it on the left. The standard Street Triple uses different hoses as well.

Probably just have to live with the exposed filler neck.

 

Find an aluminum bottle of some sort and just use that. The resi isn't really pressurized like the rest of the system so you can use pretty much whatever you want to.

The Streetfighter guys around here are using NOS drink bottles (long story of self-ownage).

I don't think he was talking about the reserve, but rather the filler neck itself.

 

I don't think he was talking about the reserve, but rather the filler neck itself.

I was! But thanks for the suggestions Tripped1.

 

Ruby if you need to cut and extend loom wiring don't use insulated crimps they will be very bulky if you have a few of them. Either tiwst and solder the cables or use the the barrel out of the crimp and cover with heat shrink, much neater. When you re tape the loom don't use ordinary insulating tape as it will go all sticky and horrible with heat, try and source proper loom tape.

 

Hi Bean Machine. I will be soldering, don't worry. Had a quick lesson the other day, but it will probably take time to get good at it. I will be getting lots of practice I'm sure! Any suggestions where I can get the loom tape? Appreciate your input, thanks.

 

Ruby, I may have been misinformed...but I think the "standard" Street and the "R" use the same exact radiator (their motor and output are exactly the same). I believe only the Daytona has the larger radiator (and different fill location). At least that's what I've been informed.

 

Hi Ken M1

I'm not sure about the physical size of the radiators, but the "standard" Street uses a different rad to the R. The "standard" Street has the filler cap on the right side of the bike, the R on the left side, like the Daytona.CORRECTION. I AM WRONG. I WAS LOOKING AT AN ONLINE PARTS MICROFICHE AND IT SHOWED THE FILLER ON THE RIGHT OF THE BIKE. IT ISN'T IT'S THE SAME SIDE AS THE 675. SO A SECONDHAND RADIATOR MAY BE AN OPTION ALTHOUGH THE STREET TRIPLE ONE IS SLIGHTLY SMALLER

 

maybe I should have read all the way through before posting like a noob..sorry about that..

seems to be a lot more involved than first thought..so to those that may have already takled this project..kudos

 

seems to be a lot more involved than first thought..so to those that may have already takled this project..kudos

Tidying up the wiring is the biggest ball ache. Once that's done and she actually fires up again :afraid: it should be plain sailing. Fingers still crossed.

 

Day 3

Day 3

Right. Lets be positive. Had a good think and I CAN do this. All the wires are colour coded so I should be OK. I need to cut a lot of the wires to the relays and fuse box, move them to their new home and then add in some wire to connect it all back up again. As long as I label every single wire I cut, at each cut end, I should be able to wire things up again. Luckily some of the wires go from relays to fuse box, so I wont need to cut them.

OK, wire cutters in hand and I'm ready to do the first cut. I really don't want to do this. Look stupid, this is why you bought the bike, you wanted a project, so cut the damn wire! There, it's cut, no turning back now. It's a scary feeling as I'm stepping into the unknown. Electrics to me are like magic, I haven't a clue. But I systematically label each wire before cutting, so I know exactly which wire connects with which wire. This will work. The job takes a long time for something so simple, so that's all I get done today. Time to lie down.

 

:laugh: have a beer its christmas:cool2:

 

So the only reason you are having to extend the wires is because of the higher handle bar setup you're going to use, right?

I wonder if you used something like the LSL 1 1/2" risers you wouldn't have to have done it at all?

 

I don't like those bars, they are too low. As I mentioned at the start of this thread, I can't get on with a sports bike riding position on the road.

I think we covered the question about the wires when I answered your thread (see here: http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37446). But just to recap, the relays and fuse box need to be moved out of sight from the left side of the bike. To do a proper, tidy job, wires need to be cut. Trust me, if I could have avoided it, I most certainly would have.

Happy Christmas!

 

Merry Christmas to you too! :cool2: