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She's not due on the dyno for a while yet.
We are developing an new low exhaust system in January and we still have the engine to run in as she has only been started twice and thats it!
We are just in the process of developing a new nose cone which will hold te clocks and have a air scope at the front similar to the Daytona.

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She's not due on the dyno for a while yet.
We are developing an new low exhaust system in January and we still have the engine to run in as she has only been started twice and thats it!
We are just in the process of developing a new nose cone which will hold te clocks and have a air scope at the front similar to the Daytona.
Looks great, can't wait to see how she runs but I think you are going to love the Zard full system after you get her on the dyno :thumbup:

I took a little different approach to protecting the radiator hose and clutch cable from the header. I originally did what you have but after a while still found the heat to be a bit much and wanted the clutch cable to find it's natural curve as well as keep everything tucked in so added a small CF heat shield that Leo Vince and a few others use on the Ducati's. It's this small one here: http://www.monsterparts.com/p/LEOVINCESHIELD/LeoVince+Universal+Carbon+Fiber+Heat+Shield.html

It still gets pretty warm but is foil backed and has enough of an air gap that it can be touched by hand even after a hard run.

Love your work :bowdown:

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I cut and mounted my own custom plate bracket / fender eliminator. It's similar to other designs I've seen people post here (Citrus Bobiels'design was the inspiration)

Attached is a schematic for anyone interested in replicating it. All you need is a 12"12" piece of sheet steel from Home Depot, some metal snips, a ruler, a drill and some bolts to hold it on. I also recommend some flat black Rustoleum spray paint if you want to match the colors.

Hole locations and sizes are approximate. Otherwise the measurements are good, and meant to attach onto the stock tail piece, just under the tail light. The two middle holes already exist on the tail where the rear reflector comes out. You also will need to drill holes in the side of the tail to mount your turn signals.

The two triangular tabs on the left and right at the bottom should be forward bent about 90 degrees, and the top area for the plate bent backward at about 45 degrees to the plane. A pair of pliers was all I used to bend the metal.

Adding this did result in the loss of the plate light. The tail light does a good job of keeping it illuminated.

If you don't want to cut an entire plate-sized bracket, you can chop it at the dotted line. I wanted all four screws for my plate slider to remain stable.

Will post some pics of the results when I can. I must say it looks great.

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Rode about 75 miles today. Got home, took the sprocket cover off and went to thoroughly clean the chain. Brand new can of degreaser went off and exploded all over the place, including my face. Gotta love it.

Finally got the chain and sprocket cover clean, plenty of buildup in there, and put it all back together. Next season I'm going to just take the chain off and boil it.
 
Did you have any problems fitting the Zard?
The supplier sent me one to fit after a customer sent it back to him. Luckily I had another set of headers as the ones that came where bent wrong and the O2 sensor mount was in the wrong place all together. I had several holes to drill out and one of the springs holding the headers into the cylinder head had to be shortened or it would have just rattled around. I'm thinking of pulling selling all Zards now!
 
Finally did the last repair after going down in August. The backordered rad cowl came in, so I threw it on (thanking forum members yet again for telling me to pull the leads out of the blinkers to get to the rad cowls, instead of taking the tank off!). Gassed her up, checked tire pressure, and took my 'better than new' baby out for a spin. Here she is, better than ever.

tnr
 

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Did you have any problems fitting the Zard?
The supplier sent me one to fit after a customer sent it back to him. Luckily I had another set of headers as the ones that came where bent wrong and the O2 sensor mount was in the wrong place all together. I had several holes to drill out and one of the springs holding the headers into the cylinder head had to be shortened or it would have just rattled around. I'm thinking of pulling selling all Zards now!
The only concern I had was that the mid pipe needed to be trimmed about 15mm on the header end so that everything fit and lined up correctly with the frame mount. Other than that no problems at all.

Mine is however now over a year old. Things may have changed since then. I know a few other models have had some concerns as of late. Zard has always been kind of hit or miss with fit quality but the performance is proven. I find it no more frustrating than most other Italian custom parts manufacturers I have used in the past. I was a long time Ducatisti and built a slew of Ducati project bikes. Most times the Italian manufactured parts where more a starting point than a bolt on finished product and almost always required some tweaking, modification, and cussing to make right. I guess I just got used to it :laugh:

Love mine though:
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Now my Matris R spec suspension.....that is just sheer Italian perfection right out of the box :bowdown:

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^^Looking good man. Glad you got her back to proper running order. I remember the pics from after your crash.

Found this pic on my phone from my ride today. Any chance to whore out pics my bike:whistle:

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Thanks! Yours too. That must be a Sargent seat, it looks like? DO WANT. And it looks like you have aftermarket headlights; what did you go with? Major improvement? With the change in weather comes freaking dark at 5PM, so I'm noticing much more how shitty the Streety's stock lights are. Wondering what to do about them.

tnr
 
Thanks! Yours too. That must be a Sargent seat, it looks like? DO WANT. And it looks like you have aftermarket headlights; what did you go with? Major improvement? With the change in weather comes freaking dark at 5PM, so I'm noticing much more how shitty the Streety's stock lights are. Wondering what to do about them.

tnr
Thanks. You are correct. That's a Sargent seat. Definitely worth the investment. The bulbs are aftermarket. They're PIAA xtreme white anti-vibration bulbs. I think they made a bit of a difference. The biggest difference I had for night riding was to loosen the headlamp mount and turn the lamps up a few degrees. From the factory they're pointed at the ground 5 feet in front of the bike..which sucks.

Bulbs here:

Amazon.com: PIAA 70856 H4 Xtreme White Antivibration 60/55 Watt = 110/100 Watt Bulb - Pair: Automotive
 
Excellent, thanks for the link. If you don't mind a couple quick questions: easy to install? And you still have high and low beams?

You are quite right about the angling. I actually just did that two nights ago, and it's a world of difference. Not enough, though. Too many freaking deer in DC, and I want to see them way before I get there!

tnr
 
Started the winter tear down.

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Chain and Sprockets
Regulator/Rectifier
New Pedals
A Serious Bath
Coolant Flush
Valve Check
Woodcraft Case Covers
Woodcraft Slider Pucks
Instal Grips
Spark Plugs
Air Filter
CRM Low Boy
Battery

What ever else I find...
 
today I installed these, should make those 25F morning commutes a lot more bearable.
Looks like dumbo ears >,> yet cool none the less they help much?
 
Started the winter tear down.

Chain and Sprockets
Regulator/Rectifier
New Pedals
A Serious Bath
Coolant Flush
Valve Check
Woodcraft Case Covers
Woodcraft Slider Pucks
Instal Grips
Spark Plugs
Air Filter
CRM Low Boy
Battery

What ever else I find...
Thats quite a list!
good luck!
 
Excellent, thanks for the link. If you don't mind a couple quick questions: easy to install? And you still have high and low beams?

You are quite right about the angling. I actually just did that two nights ago, and it's a world of difference. Not enough, though. Too many freaking deer in DC, and I want to see them way before I get there!

tnr
They're extremely easy to install. All you need is a screwdriver.

Unplug the battery. Loosen the screw at the bottom of the headlight bowl, take the casing ring off. Then the glass lens comes off. Unplug the OEM bulb, plug in the new one. Button it up and you're halfway there.

Yes the hi/low beams are retained.

I think the new bulbs made a pretty nice difference...but, the whole lighting system on our bike still sucks.
 
Nice list so far. Post some pics up of the bike.

I just switched to the 3-1 Arrow after having the Arrow slipons for about 3k miles. The 3-1 feels great in comparison, stronger in the midrange. Bike looks a lot different too without all that under the subframe. If you're doing the install yourself FYI you'll have to lift off the tank completely and then pull the top two bolts on the subframe to swing the subframe up about 2". The exhaust pipe that comes through the swingarm and splits for the underseats is just long enough where it won't come out unless you cut the exhaust or move the subframe for clearance.
Just got my Arrow Lowboy installed/mapped on Saturday while the bike was in for it's 500 mile service. Man, this pipe sounds great. The growl it emits is wonderful, pure music.

The Arrow map/injection is very good, this bike fuels beautifully, damn near perfect. The bike seemingly accelerates a lil' snappier too, can't wait to start reving this baby.

I feel the weight loss as well, bike transitions easier now (not that it was bad stock). I weighed the stock system, 26 lbs 7 ounces. I did not weigh the Arrow but the shipping box label read 17.1 lbs. So there's nothing less than about a 10 pound weigh savings. Does that sound about right?

:thumbup:
 

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