Triumph 675 Forums banner

Toothless675's Build (Re-Build)

26K views 122 replies 21 participants last post by  Toothless675  
#1 ·
Seems to be a better place to post a build thread..

The History..
I picked up my Daytona May 14 2014 after having had an ugly wreck on my old Yamaha... April 26, 2014 I got hit by a car on my R6... Resulted in this lovely hole in my knee.
Image


Weeks later..
Image


I was getting dicked around by insurance on the R6 and medical bills, they which eventually decided to pay out...with which I said enough of the Yamaha and went to the Daytona..

No less than a month Later I was back on a bike...I had tried to sit on my buddies 13 D675...but the stitches in my knee wouldn't let me bend it enough to get up on the rear set...later that night I pulled my own stitches out with some scissors and an automotive pick.. Refused to stay down..

And here we are...May 15th When I brought her home..

Image
 
#113 ·
What ya thinkin Mac? think its my pump?

What other reason would cause it to dump DIRECTLY under the bike and not out through the blow down tube on the over flow?

You'd think if its the pump it would over heat instantly though..
 
#114 · (Edited)
Okay I'm confused. You noticed it leaking out of the weep tube and you asked about how to change the water pump so I was just providing a link with instructions on how to replace it. I'm not inferring anything else. It's not a pump failure it's a seal failure but you still have to replace the whole unit. But since you're there you might as well upgrade it.

Just went back and read some more posts. I hadn't read your posts about overheating. I had only read your post asking what the metal tune coming out of the middle of the pan is. It's unlikely your water pump is causing the bike to overheat but if it's leaking from there it still needs replaced. As for the expansion tank boiling yes a bad radiator cap is the most common issue.
 
#115 ·
Okay I'm confused. You noticed it leaking out of the weep tube and you asked about how to change the water pump so I was just providing a link with instructions on how to replace it. I'm not inferring anything else. It's not a pump failure it's a seal failure but you still have to replace the whole unit. But since you're there you might as well upgrade it.
It has been doing fine for a while, it was only the other day on the really hot ride home that I noticed it once I got into stop and go traffic getting really hot, at which point I noticed it dumping out of the weep hole because I didnt see it coming out of the over flow tube.

So I'm trying to pick your brain as to if I should try a cap and thermostat first, or do you think, because of the fact alone that it was coming from the weep hole means that its a failed water pump.

Just saw your edit/update.
And I read through your post several times on the water pump oil pump. I recall trying to offer parts when you were first discussing changing to the newer style.

I'll have to reread it to review the benefits and costs again. didnt you have a bunch of troubles sourcing the cross over pipe?
 
#116 ·
I also went back and saw your posts about top speed. Your not at the re limited yet. Ignore your shift lights. My Street Triple with a 13k rev limit and the same stock gearing tops at 142 in 5th. Your Daytona should be close to 150. It depends on what the actual re limiter is set at by Daytona. I say actual because triumph sets it at 12,500 on the Strert Triplr but p spec is 13,000. So let's say the Daytona hits the rev limiter at 13,500. That puts top speed in 5th at 149 and in 6th at 162.

Check out www.gearingcommander.com
 
#117 ·
I added more to that post you last read. Sorry I frequently post then go back and edit right away.

If it's leaking out the weep hole then you'll have to replace the pump there is not option. That doesn't mean it's the cause of your overheating however. As I mentioned in my edit the most common cause for boiling into the overflow is a bad radiator cap.

The newer pump is fairly easy to find on ebay if you know what to look for. Yes the feed pipe is nearly impossible to find there but you can get it from Triumph but it takes 2 weeks since they don't stock it here.
 
#118 ·
Siphoned some coolant out of the over flow and back into the engine Ice bottle.

Pulled the side fairings off, appears as though my cap got loose and may have started sucking air.

Checked the oil pan where the weep hole is, it's dry. So Amen I don't think it's a bad pump.

Fired it up after refilling the coolant.. Ran it with the system sealed. Ran until the fan came on. Didn't overheat or push coolant. So, gonna let it cool down then open the system and see if I can bleed air out of the system
 
#119 ·
Literally spend like ten minutes with the cap off burping the hoses. You won't believe the amount of air. Then lean the bike as much as you can side to side. You may have to refill the coolant/water. Once you do that. Start it up and give it a few revs and burp it some more and rock it side to side. Then cap it and let it warm up. My bike idled for 20mins and never went past 6 bars. Fans would kick in and back down to 5. Added coolant to my overflow on the min line cold and no problems. Of course I replaced my cap just to be safe too.
 
#120 ·
Everything appears to be fine now, Still on the Original parts. I have a new Cap and T-Stat sitting for me at the dealer.

This thing has so much more work to be done before Ill be happy with it......so many things to buy.. damn money pit. Could've had a Matte black 2015 675R if I hadn't messed with this one so much hah.
 
#122 ·
Very nice!

Without a doubt, some 675R rotors with the black center would add to the look..
Not so sure i am feeling the stickers on the windscreen though, althought a nice daytona on the lower or fill in the lower slash indent with black would add to the scheme..

is this paint or plastidip?
 
#123 ·
That moment when you're considering selling your bike and write up a parts list off of memory..

2006 Triumph Daytona

Bestem Carbon Fiber:
- Nose Fairing
- Infill Panels
- Chain Guard
- Heel Guards
OEM Triumph Carbon Fiber:
- Front Fender
- Rear Fender (Tire Hugger)
- Tail Fairing
SKUR Carbon Fiber:
- Triple Tree Cover
- Fuel Tank Cover
Custom Carbon Fiber:
- Tank Sliders

Brakes:
- Brembo M4 Monoblock Front Calipers
- Carbon Loraine SBK5 Brake Pads
- Brembo RCS19 Brake Master Cylinder
- CoreMoto Custom length Brake Lines (CF Appearance w/ polished ends)
- Custom 7075 Rear Brake Bracket
- Brembo P34 Rear Brake Caliper
- Brembo OE Brake Pads
- Galfer Wave Rear Rotor
- Sunstar Front brake rotors

Wheels / Tires:
- Powdercoated Red by Excalibur Powdercoating
- Fresh Dunlop Q3 Tires 180/55/17
- New Bearings and Seals

Suspension:
- Penske 8760-F11 Fully adjustable rear Shock
- Eibach 0500.225.0600 Spring

Body, Misc. & Protection:
- Wrinkle Red Powdercoated Subframe (By Excalibur)
- OEM Triumph Seat Cowl (Solo Seat)
- Engine Ice Performance coolant
- GB Racing Case Savers (Stator, Ignition and Clutch)
- R&G Front Axle Sliders
- R&G Rear Axle Sliders
- Woodcraft Frame Sliders
- Woodcraft bar end sliders (weighed)
- Zero Gravity Double Bubble Windscreen (Tinted)
- Jardine RT-1 Specific Fender Eliminator
- Integrated Rear Brake Light
- Flush mount LED Turn Signals
- 4300k HID Low and High Beam
- TechSpec Tank Grips
- OEM Trimph CF Appearing CF Tank Pad


Engine:
- Wrinkle Red Powdercoated Valve Cover (By Excalibur)
- Driven SAI Delete Plates
- BMC Air Filter
- Modified OEM Airbox w/ Reflectagold
- Air Intake Flapper Delete
- Custom Ceramic Coated Catless Header with EXUP Deleted (2" Pipe) wrapped with DEI Titanium
- Jardine RT-1 Exhaust (Ceramic Coated and Wrapped w/ CF Cap)
- Fresh Throttle Body Balance
- Regulator/Rectifier Recall Performed by Triumph