Been on night shifts lately and havent had a lot of time off so I haven't got around to actually mounting up the lines yet. I'll report back as soon as I get the information out to you guys.

Also..I'll list the correct length bolts for the caliper to bracket.
Right now I just grabbed 2 out of my random bolt drawer and they're contacting the Galfer Caliper.. so I need to get shorter ones by about 3-5 threads and I'll get nice looking allen head ones and locktite the shit out of them haha.

I'll have more updates from today's ventures if I can keep my eyes open long enough to drive down to the shop.

Appreciate all the interest, feedback and support everyone!

 

Alright guys... I've been awake since 8:00PM Tuesday night...went to work, stayed up basically all day and all night..

Got off, went to the shop after a quick shower and bite to eat... Ran to the Dealer, picked up my exhaust o-ring gaskets for the header, which looked completely different..

And I got to work..

Didn't take a lot of pics, and I'll try and find a way to upload the video off my phone to somewhere..but..here we go.

Modified header from TRMN8TR against an OE.

Finally got it on ground and the lines ran and bled.. I definitely have more slack than I need in the front, but I measured the new lengths on a steering stem stand and accommodated for 1/2"of slack..so, no way will I ever pull the lines out even if the front wheel is in the air.

And!!.......its all done... holy crap the power of this brake...Cant wait to test it on an actual ride. I'll get specs for the line up soon.

Fresh pan, brakes and coated and wrapped header.

Almost together....but dat valve cover doe!!

 

MMmmmmm, sexy bike pictures.....ippip:

 

Oh crap…now I want to do my valve cover… This all looks fantastic! Awesome work man. Can't wait to see it all together.

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Got some stuff done before work yesterday..

Got a master link for the chain, got that put back and riveted on, then had some semi-backwards progress... Had to tear it apart a little to do this..

For the most part they all ended up balancing out to 590.

in other news...I had a blast at work last night.......as I blasted a Deer in the driver side at 55mph...

FML

 

Did the deer survive?

 

Believe it or not I think it did...When I came back through that way I didn't see it's ruined carcass on the road...however I did get some blood splatter on my windscreen.

I'm assuming I spun it and ejected it off the road, I was doing about 55mph...even empty I'm over 30klbs

That'll buff right out.

yea...

Headlight Ruined, Bumper Ruined, Brush guard ruined...

Then I got pulled over my state patrol later for it..and they conducted a full Level II Inspection of my truck and trailer..

 

That'll buff right out.

 

It's been raining like crazy here in Colorado...I was hoping to take her out today, but the state has gone full Washington and it thinks that it is Seattle or something..

So...she's just been sitting, waiting for her first ride.

So boredom sunk in and I removed the lower half plastidip..

Still one of my favorite parts..

 

So what are the rear brake line specs?

 

This set of lines is as follows. But note that I have a LOT of slack in the front end, could probably shorten as much as 1.5" and be okay..but I did it that way on purpose for full fork extension.

Regardless..

Front Left:
OAL: 26.5"
Forward 45* to MC
Forward 45 to Caliper

Front right:
OAL: 25.5
Forward 45* To Mc
forward 45* Caliper(could maybe maybe this a side 90 if you wanted..or cut the lug off the caliper like Ill probably do)

Rear line:
OAL: 31"
Forward 20* to MC
Side 90* to Caliper.

 

You make me want to do that rear brake and front brake setup soooo bad :/

Ugh!

Do you have an instagram? If so follow me. @julianoPhoto

 

It looks awesome for sure.

I'm having issues with mine, but I think its just a matter of bedding a new pad on a new rotor. It gets some noise where it catches the rotor a little..I'm sure its just break in.

But thanks man! It's definitely a sweet little mod!

I'll just leave this here..

 

...Right now I'm a little upset.. I'm contacting the correct people to resolve the problem but right now.. I'm pretty mad.

Rear brake line - Destroyed
Rear wheel - Damaged
Rear Brake caliper - Damaged
Rear brake bracket - Destroyed.
rear brake rotor - potentially defective.

Having your entire rear brake fly off - Priceless. For everything else you can shit your pants..

 

...Right now I'm a little upset.. I'm contacting the correct people to resolve the problem but right now.. I'm pretty mad.

Rear brake line - Destroyed

Rear wheel - Damaged

Rear Brake caliper - Damaged

Rear brake bracket - Destroyed.

rear brake rotor - potentially defective.

Having your entire rear brake fly off - Priceless. For everything else you can shit your pants..

Ummmm......wtf!!

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Per Galfer's application list..

2006 Triumph Daytona 675 Rear Disc - Part No: DF013W.

Behold........the issue.

You can clearly see the Galfer part number..DF013W. That bolt hole in the caliper that allows the bolt to mate it to the wheel has a relief in it.
The measurement seen on the dial caliper is said measurement.

Here is the same measurement taken on the OEM Rotor.

You instantly notice a substantial difference.
Here is a somewhat blurry side by side.

You can VERY Clearly see that the OEM Rotor retains the bolt Counter sunk to the deck of the rotor while the Galfer Protrudes from it and does not even sit flush with the surface.
Galfer:

OEM:

With the Galfer installed using the OEM Equipment, caliper, carrier, everything. The bolts that retain the rotor to the wheel very so slightly impact the Caliper Carrier Bracket.

I am going to assume that this is a design flaw or a fault rotor on behalf of Galfer.

Regardless, the end result was as mentioned above...total destruction of my rear brake assembly and the shit getting scared out of me at about 40mph.

 

That sucks big time, glad to hear it wasn't any worse, sounds like it could have been very serious.

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Could've been worse yea.. I'm still out a chunk of change.. Wheel needs to be replaced or fixed.

Caliper flew down the road at 40mph.

Line is destroyed.

Bracket is in 2 pieces..

Brake fluid erupted all over the back end

 

The worse would have been a terrible crash with bodily injury.....parts can be replaced on the bike.....ask me how I know lol anyhow glad you are ok.

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I am just trying to figure out where and what exactly went wrong with your set-up.
Being you have the same rotor, bracket and caliper set-up as me there has to be something different.
I have 3.5mm of clearance between the caliper bolt heads and the bracket. So there should not be any clearance issues, but you mentioned you had some from the start.
pics of the wheel and the bolts?

Based on what you said, I am guessing after the install the rotor bolts backed out and snapped the bracket off?

Are you using stock spacers in your wheels?

 

I am just trying to figure out where and what exactly went wrong with your set-up.
Being you have the same rotor, bracket and caliper set-up as me there has to be something different.
I have 3.5mm of clearance between the caliper bolt heads and the bracket. So there should not be any clearance issues, but you mentioned you had some from the start.
pics of the wheel and the bolts?

Based on what you said, I am guessing after the install the rotor bolts backed out and snapped the bracket off?

Are you using stock spacers in your wheels?

Just sent you a PM JD..

Not going to speak a whole lot more to the matter until I figure out a cause and solution..

 

Sorry to hear about the setback :/ The bike was coming along gorgeously.

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Thanks man! It's been one hell of a process for sure..

Did you figure it out?

Was thinking about your combination of parts, and where there could have been an issue. There is several things that could have contributed to the damage.

At least you were out riding the bike based on your one post.

Still dont have any idea... Sent pics and measurements of my wheel spacers to TJ and they're in spec..

Wheel is straight, wheel bearings and shaft are all up tight against each other.. so really.. I have not a clue.

Thinking the bracket sat sideways somehow, or the rotor just nailed it.. not really sure.

The Galfer only really hit the OE brake bracket and not the custom one..

Well, even with a shitty stock rear brake, did some canyon carving with my other half.. I know how y'all love pics..

Bishops Castle. Rye, CO.

 

Little update Kinda...Been enjoying the bike despite the stock rear brake being disgustingly weak..

Been getting a little too stupid on the street and doing this to the new dunlops
Pre-Stupidity:

Full Retard:

Anyone else notice that the Daytona has absolutely NO ability to MPH...I'm coming around some of these corners in 5th bouncing off my limiter thinking " well this sucks...."

Thinking of going to a 45 tooth sprocket in the rear... For anyone wondering, stock gears, tire size on 16/47 sprockets (OEM) you max out at 145mph..

That's sitting damn near on the limiter in 6th..

Daytona is too damn slow to be competitive with other 600's. Third generation R6 will do 115 in 2nd... I can only get 115 in 4th on the limiter.

So one of two things are going to happen.

1) Sprocket it for Taller gears

2) Goodbye Daytona, Hello S1000RR

 

You topped out at 145 in 6th? There's something wrong cause I hit 151 and I was nearing the limiter and still slowly going. This was a while so I could be completely wrong.

 

Just about yea, almost bouncing it, probably had 1 more shift light left before It was there..

Regardless, Im having to go into 5th mid-corner.. cause I cant throttle out of the corners, Im out of MPH in 4th at 115..

 

Not going to preach to you about doing 115-130mph around corners/sweepers on the street. But true the 1 & 2nd gen Daytona does not have the same top end power of an I4 600cc especially the narrow focus band of a unrestricted R6.
On the streets is where your bike will typically excel over those top end breathers, as your NOT doing 135mph, which is close to where a 675 tops out in 5th gear (real speed)..

Be safe man, in whatever you do.

 

eeehh...it's kind a public road..

It's a road that runs right near the local airport and is rarely used. 3 lanes wide either direction..minimal traffic except airport staff..

And I abuse the shit out of it...

 

Yaaaaaaaaaaay!! And the shit storm continues!

I rode the bike to work last night and home today...and its been fairly warm here now, up into the high 80's.. and comin home as I got more into the traffic I saw I was only 2 bars from the top of the coolant temp gauge..

Well, as I pull into my spot I see that I am just dribbling coolant out from the bottom of the bike..It got to about 1 to 2 bars from the maximum...but no Idiot light on the gauge cluster, the fan was running.. bike has engine ice in it.

Regardless, it let out quite a nice amount of coolant and I can hear it bubbling and boiling in the expansion tank..

So...Without having time to look at it cause I gotta get to bed, I work nights..start at 10, 1hr commute there, I get up at 8..

My Possibilities are..

1) Bad Radiator cap - Cheapest option..homing so.
2) Bad Cooling Hose somewhere (I have a suspicion as to which one)
3) Blown head gasket
4) **** if I know..

Regardless, when I get time Im gonna get a coolant pressure tester and strip the fairings off and pressurize the system to see if I can spot the issue.. But..

Gonna probably dump the oil and pull the plugs...see if they show signs of a bad headgasket.

Sooooooooooooo much for Racing this Sunday...

Daytona Strikes again...I think I just need to stop taking it to work..last time I rode it to work I lost an engine on the way home..

 

What about something as simple as just overfilling the coolant? That plus a long ride in hot conditions can cause it to overflow and leak everywhere, then making it too low and causing your issue of boiling.

I dunno, trying to be hopeful.

 

Curious....the little steel vent tube that goes through the oil pan...is that a weep hole for the water pump?

I dont think the water was coming out of the over flow vent tube...but directly under the middle of the bike which I fear is a a weep hole..

 

JD? MacBandit?

 

OK to start,... how many miles, what tune, mods, and what has changed in the last say 200 miles (mods?)

under the bike, which side specifically?
taking it you did a radiator flush and went to the engine ice?
very possible you have air trapped in the upper radiator hose (top of radiator to thermostat)
showing 2 from the top happens depending on conditions, and also what tune are you running (if any)?
your fans coming on is a good thing....
any loss of power?
have you checked your hose clamps for tightness to make sure you are not sucking air into the system somewhere?

 

OK to start,... how many miles, what tune, mods, and what has changed in the last say 200 miles (mods?)

under the bike, which side specifically?
taking it you did a radiator flush and went to the engine ice?
very possible you have air trapped in the upper radiator hose (top of radiator to thermostat)
showing 2 from the top happens depending on conditions, and also what tune are you running (if any)?
your fans coming on is a good thing....
any loss of power?
have you checked your hose clamps for tightness to make sure you are not sucking air into the system somewhere?

No additional modifications since I've had it up and running, which has been around 1k miles.

I did flush the Radiator and the block actually, and yes. Im on engine ice.

You would think that if I had an air bubble in the system I would've had issues much sooner.

I ordered a new Cap, Thermostat and seal from the Dealer yesterday. Been reading around the forums and TriumphRat, appears to be a common issue.. My only real concern is that I did not observe the coolant coming out of the overflow vent tube..

And as Mac just advised...\/ \/ \/ It's coming out of the Weep hole for the Water / Oil pump.

There is a chance one of my hoses is compromised, the lower one that goes near the sprocket.. I might also get a hold of TJ for a Samco Hose kit..Assuming that it isn't my pump that is shot..

Figured Cap and thermostat are easiest to change and the cheaper. $10 for the cap, like $50 for the thermostat... spent like $67 at the dealer.. and he had to order it all...so I'm going to miss my race on Sunday..

Yes that's the weep tube for both the oil pump and water pump.

That's Kinda what I figured..
From what I understand, the Oil and Water pump are one unit..is that correct?

It would appear as though Changing said Water pump with the engine in the bike is a pain in the ass.. is it possible?

I know there is the chain that goes around it.. assuming that the water pump is driven by the Cam chain? it's been a while since I've been in there.

I have the old one off of my other motor that shit the bed on me..I can try and clean it out incase of any debris and swap them..

Or do you think it could be something OTHER than the pump itself? From what I've read the Pump's dont actually fail on these bikes..not often at least.

Going to dump all the coolant out of the bike as best I can, flush with Water/Vinegar Solution and refill with Distilled water and Water wetter with a new cap and thermostat then do my best to bleed it out.

Where is the bleeder screw located? when I bled it last time I just burped the hoses that I could gain access to with the cap off and the engine running until it stopped drinking coolant.

 

Yes that's the weep tube for both the oil pump and water pump.