Please forgive my ignorance, but what does this do/what is it for? Schematics have never been my strong point.

 

Hey its all good I had no idea I even had a problem till all hell broke loose. Go check out this thread http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html this will help it all make sense if you read through it

 

Nicely done!

I just bought that same rectifier and will be doing this upgrade as well. I've been debating location as well so it's great to see your pictures showing an alternate location.

 

Yeah no doubt this was a tough one i wanted a place that would get air and not a significant heat source to close, like the oem spot having the engine at the back and the exhaust in front. This was the best of both worlds had a hard time making up my mind.

 

Thank you!

 

A regulator/rectifier does just that.
from an online article:

The generator itself is located in or on the engine, and on most bikes there is a separate regulator-rectifier unit located somewhere on the frame. The reason for this is that almost all motorcycles are equipped with a three-phase AC (Alternating Current) generator, while the electrical system on the bike is a DC (Direct Current) system. The rectifier part inside the regulator-rectifier takes care of converting the AC-current to the DC-current the battery needs. The three-phase AC generator is used so often because it is much more efficient and reliable than a DC-generator. It can produce power for charging the battery even with the engine idling. The regulator part of the regulator-rectifier is used to regulate the output-voltage (to the battery) to the 14.4 Vdc that is needed.

In plain English the rectifier makes sure the electrons flow in one direction (DC current), and the regulator regulates the voltage. If you want to know how a regulator works you might need to talk to an electrical engineer or someone like that.

Some people have had their R/R fail, so an aftermarket is a good choice for eliminating the problem. Personally, I haven't had any problems...knock on wood. :thumbup:

 

Doesnt the 2009 have the R/R on the right hand side, under thw right hand trim, compared to previous years where the heat was a problem??? Just asking, as I think I saw that somewhere here before.

Also, if thats the case, would this R/R fit where it is on a 2009?

tia

 

I have not seen the R/R on the 09 models but now I'd like too... Anyone have any pics of this. I'm willing to move it if someone has a better idea.

 

Here is the best I can do for a pic. Its under the right hand trim. There is a mount/brace attached at the turn signal bolt that holds it up and in place. On the other side of the r/r, the brace is just bent over (no bolt) and gets "pinned or pinched" between the fairing and the underside of the trim.

HTH

 

Interesting.... that looks like a good idea my only dislike is that it is so far away from the battery and that means running even more wire. I know I know the lazy factor again. I guess that is a vast improvement from the old location but I think I'll stay put for now. Nice to see they noticed the problem and made a change. I guess if you don't have time to do it right the first time, how in the hell you going to find time to do it again. :coolgleamA:

 

Very nice professional-looking install. Since you switched over to a MOSFET device, location is not such an issue. They do not get near as hot as the stock shunt-type device. But its all good. Well done.

 

Good job man!
Nice photo-doc. :thumbup:

You have some voltage numbers for us, just to complete the story? :lurk5:

.

 

Look who turned up over here.

Hey D'ecosse, you have the drawings for that top clamp you put on your triple still? I'm gearing up to re do my GSXR front end without all the washers and "custom" wiring I had to do before.

 

Voltage numbers are as follows 13.33v just battery. started and light on 14.40v, w/ brights 14.35, and when cooling fan motor is on and brights I'm seeing 14.15v. It's awesome oh and revved to 6k and above it never goes over 14.54v. Thanks again D'Ecosse this is by far the most usefull mod I have ever done.

 

Looks great. Hopefully mine won't fail and I won't need to do this mod,
but its good to know you have a solution.

 

Shouldn't.

His R/R was mounted under the battery tray and over the exhaust. These are getting cooked. Our bikes mount it on the inside of the right fairing (where it is a pain to get the fairing on) but it gets a LOT more airflow.

 

When replacing the stock OEM r/r with one from a zx14 do I need anything besides the r/r itself? Will the connections work?

 

I havent done this yet, but from what I have seen and read, they are different connectors. Some have probably taken the cheap way out and just used plain terminal spades. You can find the proper connectors at easternbeaver.

Or better yet, get the R/R here, he provides the wire and connectors and is $25 cheaper than anyone else.
http://www.roadstercycle.com/Vmax%20...m%20repair.htm

 

I should stop looking at these threads, now I am wondering if I should do this to my race bike as D'Ecosse mentions that it gets even hotter with less draw, and without lights, signals, etc. it sounds like a failure waiting to happen.

It would really suck to have that thing go bad at a race and ruin the weekend, does failure damage your stator as well?

 

^^^ exactly what I was thinking... May want to hook up the neon and satellite radio for the track!

This has to be the best mod I've seen yet for the early 675's with the crap component location. Maybe now I can consider going back to an undertail exhaust!

-Tom

 

Yeah i have had this mod for a wile now and it is so worth it. I went for many rides for hours and due to the new location as well as a better r/r, It never has gotten as hot as the old style in just 10 mins. And the charging.... Wow its perfect. :thumbup:

 

I just did mine a few weeks ago. got it off an 06 R1 $80. easy mod. I saved lots of time cutting the connectors of the oem pos and leave long enough tails on em to splice new wires I ran from the R/R. I anD used heat shrink buntconnectors to weatherize the splice the next thing im gonna do is get more heat shrink for the RR side to make them look more professional connectors and to also bundle the wires then paint with some black heat resistant paint.

 

Thanks for the info, I hope they have fixed this issue on the 2009+ models.

 

that is a negative, my R/R went a few days ago, checked it with my meter, pulled 16v at idle and a whopping 20v on the gas... GG.

Stator went, now this... geeze louise. Taking it to the shop tomorrow.

 

I doubt they fixed this on the '09+ 675 motor as my Stator just failed on me a couple days ago. The problem is wide spread enough that there are literally no stators available in the US right now, and mine had to be ordered from England's distribution center.

As soon as I get mine back, I think I'll do this mod with the new wires and proper R/R.

Has anyone done this on the Street Triple (+/-R)?

 

no from what i have heard it was not fixed at all on the new d675s. they just changed the location. Mine failed recently and I was looking at different aftermarket options since we all know they are faulty and Triumph knows that as well... why replace with OEM. Well i did end up calling Triumph just to see if they had any info on this, turns out all the regulaltor/rectifiers are backordered with no release date. They gave no official word of anything, but I am betting there is a reason for that. they have been backordered with no ship date info for 3 weeks now. Hopefully they are going to put out an updated model and cover this under warranty or actually issue a recall.

keep your fingers crossed, but yea i allready ordered an aftermarket one.

 

Who sells aftermarket R/R's or salvage a better one for us on a budget?

 

Ebay is your friend... read this http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html this will be the best 20 mins you have used in a long time... then go to ebay and shop. I got this one http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...ors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=390085617975&view=all&tid=56266920026

Just save your stock conectors and reuse them or plan on soldering this in solid.

 

Finally got my Striple R back with a new stator, but they said my R/R was functioning fine. Does anyone know if they put the same crappy R/R in the Striple as they do in the D675? I only ask this because I asked the dealer about this and he promptly, without hesitation, told me the charging systems in the Striple and D675 are not the same and there is a better stator in the Striple because of the higher draw from the headlights. He wasn't sure about the R/R... so I'd like to replace it if it's the same piece of crap from the D675.

 

Finally got my Striple R back with a new stator, but they said my R/R was functioning fine. Does anyone know if they put the same crappy R/R in the Striple as they do in the D675? I only ask this because I asked the dealer about this and he promptly, without hesitation, told me the charging systems in the Striple and D675 are not the same and there is a better stator in the Striple because of the higher draw from the headlights. He wasn't sure about the R/R... so I'd like to replace it if it's the same piece of crap from the D675.

Im no pro but i'd imagin that they use the same reg/rec I dont see the company spending the extra $$$ to get different reg/recs for different bikes. For the quick and easy test just make sure your batter is full charged and start up your bike let it warm a bit then revv it a rew times if your r/r gets too hot to hold in 10mins or so...... Its the crap one.

 

Thanks man, I'll look into it and replace as necessary

 

For mine I used the FH012AA R/R as found on late model R1's mentioned earlier in this thread. I got it here: http://www.roadstercycle.com/Vmax%20charging%20system%20repair.htm. The price is right, it comes with all the necessary plugs, wiring and connectors to do the job, it shipped quickly and came with lots of good info and instructions.

I used the factory mounting location and modified the OEM bracket by riveting a flat plate to it and drilling two new holes to fit the new R/R unit.

By mounting it with the plugs facing to the left, the factory wiring from the stator will reach with just a little re-routing.

The new set-up works just as advertised. Voltage readings as follows:

Before the mod - bike running at idle 13.08V, at 5K RPM 12.95V. :blech2: ...no wonder I couldn't even get two years out of a battery.
After the mod - 14.18V / 14.32V. :hooray:

After a 45 minute test ride in 50 degree weather, the new R/R was barely even warm to the touch. Then, just to try to simulate a worst case scenario, I unplugged all the lights and let the bike sit idling until the fan kicked on; the new R/R was still cool enough to touch comfortably! I know by experience that in the same situation the the old one would get hot enough to burn the crap out of your finger. What an improvement!!!

Thanks DeCosse and 07d675cm2 for the valuable info, a fun and useful mod for sure :thumbup:

 

.....edited

 

Did this today and it is amazing the difference.

Three questions:

1) Looks like I got the exact same R/R as yours (says FH008EE 7.2.151 on the side of it); why did you use 10 ga instead of 12 ga on your output wires? I just purchased some 12 ga along with the 12 ga Metri-Pack 30 amp fuse holder and am now wondering if I need to get 10 ga stuff due to the type of R/R used.

2) Was there not enough wire between the wire coming from the stator and the wire coming from the R/R to connect them directly to each other such that you had to make a splice piece?

3) Did you make the relocation bracket?

 

1) I used 10 Ga. because I had it laying around but 12 will be plenty big enough.

2) I left the wires long on the ref/rec i cut the plug off so I needed to make the wire longer from the plug... just a personal preference but you can do it anyway you would like.

3) Yes I fabricated the bracket from a piece of aluminum I got from one of the home improvement center.

 

I cut off the old harness from the oem R/R and spliced in some new connectors to the new RR with some extra length to re mount it on the side of the battery box with a home made bracket. Sorry if some of the pics suck

 

Looks good SuperDave. :thumbup: