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Discussion starter · #41 ·
Well because Im such a NICE guy, the post has been added!

Let me know if its helpfull and if you have any further questions I can help with. Maybe we should have a Blacktriple section like Catweazles...lol :lol:

Take care and happy wrenching 8)
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Sponge Bob its not much maybe half a pound or so,

"WERE TALKING GRAMS I HAVE TO MEASURE" as quoted by the late Notorius B.I.G. :D
 
Blacktriple said:
Well because Im such a NICE guy, the post has been added!

Let me know if its helpfull and if you have any further questions I can help with. Maybe we should have a Blacktriple section like Catweazles...lol :lol:

Take care and happy wrenching 8)
Thanks bud! 8)

Next time, please...just PM me and ask. I am more than accommodating (most of the time). ;) :lol:
 
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???
 
Thanks for replacing this content for the Third? time..
Great job by the way....
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
ofcounsel said:
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???
The biggest difference in a reg. and slipper is the ramp design wich allows the clutch to slip. Look at your yoyo clutch and you will notice that the ramp lifts, therefore the judder springs would fall behind the ramp and be destroyed!

The best option would be to buy another plate($12) and throw out the judder springs. Me being impatient bought another plate but its sitting in my track day spares along with a new gasket.

I really see no need to replace the judder springs, seeing that I have three track days on the clutch and NO issues what so ever!

So its up to you, I personaly think its fine to keep the springs as I have proven them to work under the hardest of down shifts from 5th to 2nd and it works perfectly.

Sorry for the long answer but now you will be able to decide what route you should take with the judder springs/plate.
 
ofcounsel said:
Thanks! What function are the springs normally supposed to have??
They help ease the connection of the plates and steels so that they dont slap together..... allowwing for smoother clutch engagement "feel",and less wear and tear on the friction plates....not really a concern when "beating" on the bike on the track...
 
ofcounsel said:
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???
If you have the installation CD, although they don't show the 675. It tells you to switch the judder springs/plate to the 3rd position on the other bikes they do show.

Just make sure you don't over-torque the yoyo pressure plate bolts and collars like I did... they'll snap pretty easily.
 
why was this unstickyied yet again?
 
Blacktriple said:
ofcounsel said:
Thanks Blacktriple!

How come the judder springs have to be moved to the third position? How did you know to do that???? I guess I never would have figured that out. Thanks..

Also, have you had any problems with it... now that you've had a chance to use it for a while???
The biggest difference in a reg. and slipper is the ramp design wich allows the clutch to slip. Look at your yoyo clutch and you will notice that the ramp lifts, therefore the judder springs would fall behind the ramp and be destroyed!

The best option would be to buy another plate($12) and throw out the judder springs. Me being impatient bought another plate but its sitting in my track day spares along with a new gasket.

I really see no need to replace the judder springs, seeing that I have three track days on the clutch and NO issues what so ever!

So its up to you, I personaly think its fine to keep the springs as I have proven them to work under the hardest of down shifts from 5th to 2nd and it works perfectly.

Sorry for the long answer but now you will be able to decide what route you should take with the judder springs/plate.
First, I would like to thank BlackTriple for such an awesome "How-to" on the slipper clutch. I have recently purchased one, 8), and am now trying to figure out something. What part do I replace the judder spring(s) with? Is it a plate or a friction disk? And it just so happens that there are no two alike in the entire assembly. Each plate / disk has it's own part number. :? Do I even NEED to put anything else in there? Or can I just take the judder springs out and leave it at that? Any help in this would be greatly appreciated. :)
 
is this mod something worth doing for an aggressive street and occaisonal track day rider
 
I installed the Yoyodyne in July on my track 675, and in order to make the stock clutch pack fit, I removed the base plate of the judder spring and one of the steels. This is contrary to what the directions indicate; you should just drop the stock clutch pack in (in the revised order) and it should work fine. Well, I finally got to Miller Motorsports Park over Labor Day, and the clutch worked great! It was awesome to come off the front straight, downshift from 5th to 3rd, and hear the engine come up to speed slowly as the slipper did its thing. The rear wheel stayed planted and it felt great hauling into corners. So I highly recommend this mod to anyone who is going to the track. Just be aware of the importance of stack height (should be around 7.60 mm) as seen in BlackTripple's install instructions.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
brancart1 said:
that was an awesome write-up!

did you have to add some oil when you did this? Or should I say did any oil come out when removing the clutch cover?
I droped the oil before I did the change(as it was time) but I dont think any oil will seep threw the clutch.
 
Not sure if the oil level (when not running) would be up to the clutch cover or not. The engine has a pretty deep sump, and there are only 3 quarts or so in the motor. Of course, the manual says to drain the oil though.
 
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