Either there is still air in the system or there's a leak? Just my two penneth..

 

no fluid leaks that i can find and i'm getting fluid through on the left side but no air bubbles and the same with the right side so i can't figure out where i am going wrong. But thanks for the input

 

have you tried a vacuum bleed? You might need to start like that to get big quantities of air out

 

have you tried a vacuum bleed? You might need to start like that to get big quantities of air out

I would if i knew how to do it

 

Air collects in pockets. Get rid of potential high spots for air to collect in the lines. Move the lines around. make sure your M/C is the high spot.

Try removing the caliper off the offending side if they still won't bleed. Then push the pistons all the way back into the caliper. Basically your forcing the trapped air/fluid back up and through the m/c.

Clean the pistons w/ a toothbrush & brake cleaner before you push them back in. Get all the brake dust off. Don't want to push old brake dust into the seals.

Beware, when you push the pistons back, you may squirt/spew brake fluid out of the MC. Take preventive measures. Brake fluid will eat paint.

Dry brake lines can bleed up in a pinch, or take lots of time. Sometimes you got to monkey with them for awhile. It will seem like you're going nowhere, and all of a sudden they'll bleed right up.

A vacuum system can help, but not 100% necessary.

 

I believe you have air in your master cylinder. Pull the lever all the way in and hold it. While it's held, slightly crack open the banjo bolt that holds the lines to the master cylinder and then tighten. Release the lever. Then repeat. Make sure you have plenty of rags draped around that area and over any painted surfaces.

If there's air in the master cylinder, no matter how much pumping of the lever you do, you'll never get the system bled. The pump chamber itself has air in it; there's no fluid in it to pump. Bleeding at the banjo bolt helps relieve the workload on the pump since you're not pushing fluid and air through the lines.

A vacuum system like a MityVac would be real helpful at this point because it'll just draw everything down to the bleeders. They're relatively cheap at most parts stores. You need the pump kit and reservoir kit.

 

I take it there's not a bleed fitting at the master cylinder? If not, ducnut's approach is the only way to clear the system.

 

there is a bleeder fitting a couple of inches to the right of the master cylinder. its between the front brake lever and the throttle bar grip. this is the one you should bleed first.

 

thanks for that but i think you a refering to the daytona radial master cylinder and not the stripple which is the standard type master cylinder.....

 

I think you should get a vacuum bleeder. It's just a little tool with a rubber hose that you put on the nipple. Squeeze the handle to build up a vacuum, then open the bleeder.

As mentioned before, MightyVac makes a decent one.

I wouldn't reccomend using this by itself though. You should always perform a pressure bleed after a vacuum bleed

 

oh, yea i was. im sorry!

 

cheers guys for your help with this problem, i've managed to get the brakes to a state where i will be able to stop at least but they are still spongy. the bikes booked in for some work at the dealers next week so they can sort the last bit of the bleed when they reroute the throttle cables from left to right due to new fat bars