Dont spend the money on valves and springs or anything yet. Go get the bike setup for you by a suspension tech and get it to the track. At 170 the front springs should be fine for you, Im 160 and they were just ever so slightly too stiff so we swapped one of the legs to .5 less. Stock should be 9.5 in each fork, I run a 9.0 and a 9.5. If you are new to track days you might need to back the preload off for a few sessions but youll grow into it quickly as you get better on the brakes.

The stock forks are not actually made by Ohlins, its a company that is licensed to make them for Ohlins out of Japan(the name is escaping me right now), its a shitty cartridge with a true Ohlins valve. The valve itself is tailored more to the street for sure, the ttx shock is setup similar but is truly an Ohlins part just with a Triumph specified valving. I got the front forks revalved and although it was a noticeable change it wasnt massive, it gave me the confidence to trail on the brakes harder. Re valving the rear shock made the biggest change, im on the gas harder and earlier with less spin, Im running the stock spring on the shock still.

 

I'll be running the 675 standard forks, not the 675R Ohlins. I'll be doing 99% street riding too. I'll put them on and see how it goes.

I agree with tottenham12712 above. I think ST springs are too soft in general and that's why I dished out the money for harder ones.

If you decide however that you need softer springs than the Daytona ones, I've got a pair of OEM ST-R springs lying around, send me a PM if you are interested.

Thanks for the info! I'll keep that in mind once I test it out.

 

I agree with tottenham12712 above. I think ST springs are too soft in general and that's why I dished out the money for harder ones.

If you decide however that you need softer springs than the Daytona ones, I've got a pair of OEM ST-R springs lying around, send me a PM if you are interested.

 

Then definitely dont even bother touching them. Just straight upgrade when you feel you need it. Still go get the bike setup for you however.

Is there a reason you want to change it? Are you having issues at the track or trying to solve a specific issue?

 

I do some spirited riding on the weekends up in Wisconsin occasionally, but I've not yet been to the track. The Non-R non-adjustable front suspension on the Street Triple is quite soft and not very confidence inspiring when pushing limits. I'm hoping to have more adjustability to tune the suspension for my riding, at least make it a bit more firm to help with brake dive. I think it will really help when I hit the track.

When I replaced my RSU with the R, it opened up a world of adjustment I previously never had and allowed me to better understand the effects of adjusting my suspension. I'm hoping the same will come from upgrading the forks. I bought my bike used a year ago and have learned a lot since then. With my successful valve/cam timing adjustment, I'm ready for more

 

Honestly if you have not been to the track you will not even notice a difference. Personally I would spend more money on track days as thats going to get you faster, not springs or valves. Throw the forks in if you have them, get the bike setup for your weight and go to the track.

 

The goal never was to go faster, the goal is to gain refinement and capability - street or track. I believe going from non-adjustable to adjustable suspension will help. It was night a day between the preload only -> STR RSU.

 

OK, so I have installed the forks... however I've run into an issue.

When tightening the spindle nut, I noticed that it bottomed out fairly far in and there was still about a 1mm gap between the wheel spacer and the fork. After some research, I found that the Daytona and the Street Triple R both have a different internal wheel spacer in the front wheel! I don't know the size, but I'm thinking this must be my problem, so the front wheels between the non-R and the R/Daytona are not compatible. I'm thinking even if I try to swap the internal wheel spacer, the groves for the bearings must be different to accommodate the internal spacer...

Does anyone have any input or recommendations? Could I compensate with slightly larger external wheel spacers (I'm not even sure where to get the ones I'd need)?

 

You took the ST's lower triple to a CNC shop and get it modified for the larger diameter Ohlins fork right? Guess not!
The Ohlins fork tube is conical in the middle and is very close to 1mm larger in half diameter at the lower triple section (Overall ~2mm larger than standard fork's diameter)

I also replied to your PM.

 

Mine looks the same ... The gurus over here please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but honestly I don't see it as an issue that will cause you any trouble. But don't take my word for it of course.
Could anyone with a 13+ STR upload photos of the same parts for comparison ?

 

There is another thread ongoing here:

http://www.triumphrat.net/street-tr...897-13-street-triple-vs-street-triple-r-daytona-front-wheels-2.html#post8700905

My daytona looks identical to that. There was always a gap but its not really a gap it just looks like one. Take the calipers off and spin the wheel, youll know pretty quickly if something is wrong.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40599

Interesting! So maybe I have over-reacted. I did re-attach my standard ST forks back onto the wheel and spindle and there was no gap.

I'm still somewhat interested in this. I don't think there should be much of a gap. When the spindle is tightened down, the spindle head pushes against the spacer closest to the head. That does secure the wheel and prevent it from moving side to side, however I think that has to mean that the wheel is not centered between the forks. That gap would have to exist equally between both sides for the front wheel to be centered between the forks.

I think the most important factor is that the front wheel is in-line with the rear wheel, but I'm not an engineer and don't know important it is for the wheel to be centered between the two forks. From what I'm reading here, I'm starting to think it's not as important as I originally though. Maybe the front wheel being out of alignment to the rear by .85mm (1.7mm gap / 2) isn't a big deal. The more I think about it the more crazy I sound!!

 

My daytona looks identical to that. There was always a gap but its not really a gap it just looks like one. Take the calipers off and spin the wheel, youll know pretty quickly if something is wrong.

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=40599

 

My Daytona has a gap but not nearly that big, and the axle isn't as recessed in the fork. Are the axles different lengths between an ST and STR?

 

I don't think so. The only difference I can find is the part # for the internal spacer inside the Daytona wheel. Everything else is the same, including the external spacers.

 

nayr14 I highly recommend the video below:

If you follow the steps in that video and all looks good then I wouldn't loose sleep over that gap

If the forks are binding then I'd be worried though...

 

Another great video!

At this point I'm having the wheel spacers done anyhow. That will help close the gap and make the wheel centered between the forks and ultimately centered with the rear wheel. Although the offset probably isn't a big deal and it would ride fine, I've come far enough that I've decided having the wheel more evenly between the forks can't hurt.