[ggillies]

Just a quick question. The tunes on the 1st page, will they run on all yrs or just specific yrs? I have an O7 Daytona with Full Arrow stage 1 and BMC filter. Think I'm running the the 20137 or the 1 before it. But would like to try Fluxs or AZ675 or anybody elses to see the difference. Also using Tuneboy.

My Bike was the same yare as yours... The [FLUX] tune should be compatible with the ECU on your bike.. I'm not sure if the Full Leo tune will be useful for a full Arrows system, but it's worth a try.

See my sig for results from [FLUX] tune.. :sifone:

 

[roffe_s]

...I have an O7 Daytona with Full Arrow stage 1 and BMC filter. Think I'm running the the 20137 or the 1 before it. But would like to try Fluxs or AZ675 or anybody elses to see the difference. Also using Tuneboy.

Well, I would then open the 20137 tune, download the PCIII - addition from AZ675´s dyno work and apply it to the 20137 tune following f i this description.

Also - tle Leo tune might be tested, but please remember that there seem to exist some major differences in the fuelling needs between Arrow and Leo, where the Leo tune is much leaner. So pay attention to the behaviour in this area, running lean aint a wise thing to do...

 

[roffe_s]

Thanks to Midtkil, we now have the possibility to use his PCIII tune for a Remus full system exhaust. Both the tune and the Dyno sheet may be found in the first post. Thank You Midtkil:bowdown:.

We compared his tune with AZ675's Arrow tune and they are actually quite similar to eachother.

 

[bengdog3851]

Hi Everyone
my tuneboy is on its way so im getting ready now

first question:
im in the VIN 323545 to 381274 range is there a 20109_1 equivelant for my 08'?

second question:
if the above dosnt exsist how safe would i be opening up the intake flapper and the exup just before idle speed?

Cheers

 

[roffe_s]

first question:
im in the VIN 323545 to 381274 range is there a 20109_1 equivelant for my 08'?

second question:
if the above dosnt exsist how safe would i be opening up the intake flapper and the exup just before idle speed?

Unfortunately no - no easy download avaliable yet.

I'll guess You either have to:

1 - Manually change the values in the fuel tables to the values in the tune above

2 - Write to Wayne and ask him if he could transform the tune for You.

The flapper RPM:s could be regulated by setting a RPM-value to f i 900 RPM in the box in menu "Edit - Tune Constant". Its the same value as in the TOR and Arrow tune and will keep the flap open as soon as Your engine is started.

EXBV opening is regulated in the EXUP table and 100 means fully open. It might need some dyno work as the fuelling might needs some richening in the RPM area (0 - 6 000RPM) where the EXBV is partly closed in the standard tune.

I hope this helps - good luck:thumbup:

 

[jpeepers]

I have a question for the tuning gurus out there. I am currently running the 20110Tune+ArrowPCIII tune. I found this one to be the best performing tune on my bike here in Florida. I am moving to Colorado in a few weeks and I'm wondering what I might expect from the bike.
Basically going form sea level and 90%+ humidity to 5-6K ft. and 40% humidity.
Can someone recommend a tune that might work better or should I be ok with what I have? I know it would be best to have it tuned out there but until I get settled in and find someone capable of doing it out there I'm stuck with what is already available for download.

Thanks,
JP

 

[roffe_s]

...the best performing tune on my bike here in Florida. I am moving to Colorado in a few weeks and I'm wondering what I might expect from the bike.
Basically going form sea level and 90%+ humidity to 5-6K ft. and 40% humidity.
Can someone recommend a tune that might work better or should I be ok with what I have? ...

While waiting for the Gurus to chime in, I might perhaps contribute with some humble experience?

As You know, I'm monitoring the A/F during most of my riding and I actually believe our ECU is doing a very good job, compensating the fuelling for most circumstances. What I noticed is that in temperatures below +10 degrees celsius, the bike runs slightly richer, which is how I would like it.

Now, with the highest mountain in Sweden being 2 111 m (about 6 900 ft), I cannot guarantee the effect for the kind of levels You are moving to, but during my riding from sea levels up to perhaps 1 500 - 2 000 ft, the ECU does a good job compensating.

About the humidity, our bikes have no hygrometer and it doesnt seems to affect the A/F, I guess the effect might be more related to power output than changes in A/F.

So my guess is that Your bike should be running with quite good A/F but of course some loss of hp due to the air pressure on those levels. The tune You are running is by the way developed by AZ675 in Arizona and if my memory serves me correct, there are some similar heights also in that state? Maybe AZ may answer You about at what level his tune were developed?

Good luck with the moving by the way:thumbup:

 

[bengdog3851]

Unfortunately no - no easy download avaliable yet.

I'll guess You either have to:

1 - Manually change the values in the fuel tables to the values in the tune above

2 - Write to Wayne and ask him if he could transform the tune for You.

The flapper RPM:s could be regulated by setting a RPM-value to f i 900 RPM in the box in menu "Edit - Tune Constant". Its the same value as in the TOR and Arrow tune and will keep the flap open as soon as Your engine is started.

EXBV opening is regulated in the EXUP table and 100 means fully open. It might need some dyno work as the fuelling might needs some richening in the RPM area (0 - 6 000RPM) where the EXBV is partly closed in the standard tune.

I hope this helps - good luck:thumbup:

Cheers, yeh i figured out where to change these options just wasnt sure about side-effects but leaning out due to less back pressure i could deffinantly imagine happening.
so for option 1 i'll start with the stock tune and manually type in the values from waynes old tune and see how it goes. (still waiting for tuneboy + need to do 200 more Kms before i can red-line)

however has anybody tried loading a tune from the wrong VIN group? or is ECU frying to big of a risk.

Cheers

 

[aspenbum]

I have a question for the tuning gurus out there. I am currently running the 20110Tune+ArrowPCIII tune. I found this one to be the best performing tune on my bike here in Florida. I am moving to Colorado in a few weeks and I'm wondering what I might expect from the bike.
Basically going form sea level and 90%+ humidity to 5-6K ft. and 40% humidity.
Can someone recommend a tune that might work better or should I be ok with what I have? I know it would be best to have it tuned out there but until I get settled in and find someone capable of doing it out there I'm stuck with what is already available for download.

Thanks,
JP

i am in the same boat, as i just moved here from PA. so when you find something let me know. If i find someone or something ill do the same :thumbup:

 

[daytonabrent]

Roffe s,
I'm really new to the tuneboy scene... so new in fact that i have only just ordered a tuneboy in the group buy here on this forum my question is this: I have a TBR slip on with a K&N air filter, which tune would you recommend? I have been swinging towards using one of your tunes... the TBR_M2_DT1_mixaf_final.dat tune.... do you think this is a good choice? My understaning is that you have a similar set up to mine (same pipe, different air filter..) what is the latest tune you are using and if possible could you send me the tune file??
Thanks in advance,
Daytonabrent

 

[roffe_s]

Hi DaytonaBrent,

Yes, I would say we have a similar setup for the tunes I've worked with so far. The latest tune I used and was most satisfied with is the 13_1_final. It's actually also using a varying A/F target value, between 13.1 and 13.25. So that is the tune I'm most satisfied with.

Now, I have added Hordboys shorter velocity stacks and also removed EXBV and cat from the exhaust, so I will work with a new tune based on 20110 as soon as the snow melts away.

Good luck:thumbup:

... I have a TBR slip on with a K&N air filter, which tune would you recommend? I have been swinging towards using one of your tunes... the TBR_M2_DT1_mixaf_final.dat tune.... do you think this is a good choice? My understaning is that you have a similar set up to mine (same pipe, different air filter..) ...

 

[daytonabrent]

Thanks roffe! :bowdown: I've been sifting through sooo many posts on here about tunes but can you tell me... does you 13.1 tune leave the exhaust valve fully open while the bike is running? i think i remember something about it opening the valve just above idle, but that could have been a different tune i was looking at :biggrinjester: I currently have to replace one of the cables that is connected to the valve :verysad: having the valve open at the start of the rpm range should hopefully stop the valve from working as much and therefore make the cables last longer .... am in the process of upgrading my bike too... bit off topic haha but have just purchased this set for the daytona :coolgleamA:

*edit* is this 13.1 map aimed at giving the most power? Only asking because i really don't care about fuel consumption haha oh and what map is this tune based on? I need to make sure that my bike's VIN is compatible with this map cheers

 

[roffe_s]

... does you 13.1 tune leave the exhaust valve fully open while the bike is running?
... am in the process of upgrading my bike too
... bit off topic haha but have just purchased this set for the daytona :coolgleamA:
...is this 13.1 map aimed at giving the most power?
... oh and what map is this tune based on? I need to make sure that my bike's VIN is compatible with this map cheers

Hi DaytonaBrent,

- It opens earlier, but not fully open all the time. The opening is set 100% at 4 500 RPM in all of my tunes.

- That is a good set, but I run with LSL frame protection and CarbonAdi engine protection on my bike, mostly because of some nice prices on e-bay/STG.

- The 13.1 map is designed for both street and track. During my logging, I discovered that the part of the map effective at street crusing almost never was used on track! Therefor, the 13.1 gives an A/F of 13.1 - 13.25 on track loads and as high as 14.5 during cruising, giving me a combination of top performance and descent mileage (actually lower than the TOR tune). I simply couldnt motivate the use of two separate tunes.

- The tune is based on 20109/20136 and will fit right on the first two VIN series as stated in the VIN list at Tuneboys home page.

- I believe the EXBV flap, partly open, is concentrating the exhaust fumes in a way that might harm our cat and cause slowly decreasing output. I've seen one example on a competition bike in Sweden, the cat had collapsed and was blocking the exhaust. The power raised from about 82 hp to 110 hp when the owner removed the cat. Here is a picture of my cat/EXBV when removed after 17 000 km, showing the deformation of tha parts where the concentrated fume stream is hitting the cat at small EXBV openings:

So, I believe the situation is better with an earlier opening OR removal of the cat. However, running EXBV fully open from low RPM's will affect the fuelling, so please verify the fuelling on a dyno/ A/F-reading if You play with the EXBV opening too much.

I hope this might clear things out a little bit...

 

[daytonabrent]

Wow thankyou for answering my questions so fully! :thumbup:
When my tuneboy arrives.. hopefully either monday or tuesday (fingers crossed!) i will be trying out your tune in my bike. Will definitely let you know how it goes and i believe that the group that i am riding with are having a dyno day so will post up the results from the dyno if you like? Again, thank you so much for putting in so much effort with helping me and my questions, it is very much appreciated! :cool2: :notworthy:

 

[Red]

Hey All:
I have an '06 with the early VIN numbers. I have the 20109Madas tune on their now with the stock exhaust. I just bought an extra stock system (got a smokin' deal) and want to cut the cat out and install a shorty exhaust. I believe I can fit a 3.5" can where the cat is now, and I would like to bring the exhaust tip so it clears the fairing and exits in front of the reat wheel on the right side. Sooooo.....here are a couple of questions for the experts out there:

1) should i leave the EXUP valve in, so i can play with it in the future, or ditch it completely? I am thinking something along the lines of a modified tune like the 13_1 might work well?

2) what would be a good tune to start with that would be compatible with m ECU? How can I get the "legendary Flux tune" that was based on 20154 edited to be able to work with my ECU? Has there been a tune based on the Arrow 20110 tune?

3) any other words of wisdom from the think tank?

 

[roffe_s]

Hi Red, I'll try to give You some thoughts:

My own "gutted"-tune:
Here in northern Sweden, we are still suffering from cold weather and icy streets. However, as the temperature was creeping past +2 deg celsius last sunday, I took the bike out for a first log with the new setup. I managed 40km before I lost the feeling in my fingers, but during that time, I got a descent observation of the base tune and a log to start playing with (as well as a nice high speed slide)...

The base tune is 20110, with the fuel values from 13_1 tune. I know these will change due to different ign and A/F tables, but want to keep the individual balance between my cylinders.

Observation: Quite good, some more fuel needed on top, probably due to the new stacks. But, against my expectations, quite rich up to 6k RPM. Now, this is the first time I'm logging A/F after the collector so the result might differ compared to earlier logs/adjustments of each cylinder, but nevertheless surprising (to me). Also logged MAP for the first time and got some real data to fine-tune the L-tables.

But as the weather is much too cold for most of us, the tune needs to be tested/modded during more descent conditions. I'm off for my first track weekend of the year in the southern ( = warmer) parts of our looong country in April, 18-19. I'll hopefully have a descent tune to share after that.

Now, to Your questions:

1 - Your choice. The 13_1 will work fine if You keep the EXBV, and You can use the coming "gutted" tune as well, just activate the box for EXBV without changing the EXUP table and the valve will be fully open as soon as the engine starts.

2 - The original Flux tune is not for the 20154, it's AZ675 that converted it to the -08 ECU. So if You use the tune at the link above, You'll be fine. But, according to my experience, the LV system might be running with leaner fuel mixture around 6k RPM, see this post. Another option is to open the 20110 and add AZ675 PCIII-tune for an Arrow full system, this is a richer tune. I would try them both and especially pay attention in the part of the tune with the greatest differences.

3 - Let's wait for the smart guys to chime in.

I hope this might serve as some kind of help to You. Good luck:nod:

Hey All:
I have an '06 with the early VIN numbers....

 

[Red]

Ok!
That brings on a couple of follow up questions:

1) I will have more room to work with if i cut out the EXUP valve completely, so I am really trying to figure out if I really need it at all. My initial thoughts before chopping anything up is that more room to work with and install a proper muffler outweighs tiny drop in peak power. I am more of a "street rider" so i just want to get a little more bang out of the engine, drop some weight by removing that heavy stock exhaust, and clean up the looks a bit - but also have it run reliably!

2) Should i leave the EXUP valve unplugged if I use the orignial flux tune that you provided a link to? (thanks, by way) Does it default open if unplugged?

Thanks a bunch!

 

[roffe_s]

1 - My downpipe: http://www.sporthoj.com/galleri/?do=visabild&id=82658 (about 50 mm or 2 inch pipe used), the spare one is also in the picture. The valve have two functions on a bike, to keep the noice level down and to add pressure/tune the system on lower RPM's. The pipe is louder with the valve removed, but the people on here that tested different EXBV openings havent spotted any major effects what so ever on the dyno.

But not so few people have experienced issues with the valve adjustments and function. This is mainly the reason why I removed it, besides the advantages with a more straight and smooth design.

2 - If the EXBV is kept, You might as well let it stay connected and mark the box for EXBV in TuneEdit. Then it will open fully as soon as You start the engine and You can still play with other tunes that uses EXBV.

My 2p - Good luck!

Ok!
That brings on a couple of follow up questions:

1) I will have more room to work with if i cut out the EXUP valve completely, so I am really trying to figure out if I really need it at all. My initial thoughts before chopping anything up is that more room to work with and install a proper muffler outweighs tiny drop in peak power. I am more of a "street rider" so i just want to get a little more bang out of the engine, drop some weight by removing that heavy stock exhaust, and clean up the looks a bit - but also have it run reliably!

2) Should i leave the EXUP valve unplugged if I use the orignial flux tune that you provided a link to? (thanks, by way) Does it default open if unplugged?

Thanks a bunch!

 

[midnightsun]

Hey guys i just ordered, a M5 two brothers.

My local triumph dealer said they would re program my ecu for 20 bucks. and they would do it when i bring my bike in for its first year service.

any recommendations on what i should do?

 

[scorched 675]

Hey Midnightsun which dealer said they would add the tune for $20 bucks? I live in Aylmer and Inglis and Sturgis both want $100 bucks to load the TOR Tune. Kinda curious because I would like to get the TOR Tune loaded to my bike. I have a Jardine slip on. Adding the TOR tune will give you better fuel air mixture and the bike will run a little better. It won't give you any more HP just make it run a little leaner. With the stock tune the bike will run a little rich with a slip on type exhaust. Hope this helps.