[Sp00ky]

Fast idle...

Plus one tooth on the front sprocket...yes.

With the stock gearing or minus one tooth on the front, the bike tends to want to lift the front end out of slower corners when you give it a handful of throttle. This makes it a little harder to control as you have to steer off the back wheel.

To get around this I added a tooth to the front. It works for me. I can get the power on sooner in the corner and keep the front end down for more control.

As far as the throttle goes, mine works well for me, the stock Triumph set up was terrible.

I added a 1050 throttle setup which gave me a nice fast delivery of power but I needed to be able to keep the idle speed up so that the power delivery was smoother without having to think about it.

So I dumped the Triumph idle system and installed a manual idle control.

This allowed me to dial up the idle to exactly where I wanted it.

When I'm racing on the back roads I turn the idle up so the throttle is never closed. The bike idles at around 2000 revs. The power delivery is smooooth in the slower bends, especially in those long slow, knee dragging corners that seem to go on forever.

Keep in mind that I have my bike set up the way *I* like it. Not everyone would agree, but that's ok.

Pictures? Nothing to see, really. She looks pretty much like a cafe racer, all black and stealthy. Most of the mods are not really noticeable. The average rider wouldn't even notice the cheap CBR rear shock...:grin:

S.

 

[phatplat]

Your bike sounds like a beast.

 

[banyan]

Sounds cool...is there a walkthrough somewhere about swapping in the idle control?

 

[Sp00ky]

Idle control? I don't know if there is.

It's pretty straight forward work though. Not too complicated. About on the same level as the sai or CBR rear shock.


S.

 

[pretzel]

Does anybody know the dimensions of the 1000rr shock? From photos, it looks similar to the 600rr shock accept the reservoir is mounted differently...looks like it might work if the underseat exhaust has been removed.

They're even cheaper than the 600rr shocks...I wonder if they are spec'd similar or have a heavier spring?

 

[phatplat]

50$ with linkage is kind of hard to beat. I'm sure something can be cheaper but I doubt it's worth the time to spec it out.

 

[pretzel]

I'm not looking for a cheaper option, just wondering if it's a better option.

from Rider magazine:

"Out back, Showa’s new, patented Balance-Free Rear Shock uses a double-tube design with a piston cylinder inside the damper tube. Unlike a conventional single-tube design, there are no damping valves. Instead, smoother pressure changes result from a larger volume of oil passing through a single damping chamber. Honda claims damping is more responsive and consistent, especially as the shock transitions from compression to rebound, for better rear wheel traction."

"The ’12 model was even more composed. The Big Piston Fork dives less under hard braking and soaks up pavement irregularities brilliantly, while the Balance-Free shock kept the rear tire glued to the tarmac, giving me the confidence to drive harder out of the long, downhill Carousel."

 

[mcarnold]

Does anybody know the dimensions of the 1000rr shock? From photos, it looks similar to the 600rr shock accept the reservoir is mounted differently...looks like it might work if the underseat exhaust has been removed.

They're even cheaper than the 600rr shocks...I wonder if they are spec'd similar or have a heavier spring?

I have an R1 shock on my 13+ stripple. Use 09-13 R1 shock, it fits the best. The CBR shock will not fit any stripple 13+ due to the nitrogen reservoir.

There are slight differences between the R1 and standard shock, I think the R1 is like 5mm longer. Also you have to use the upper shock yoke of the R1, the stripple yoke is to small. And you have to modify the frame slightly to fit the R1 shock. But the R1 shock is SOLID, with hydraulic preload and high speed compression (although I still cant dial that in) PM me if you have questions.

 

[mcarnold]

My fault I thought you asked about the R1. Let me check some specs on the shock, it looks promising.

 

[pretzel]

If the internet is to be trusted, the 1000rr and 600rr shocks can be swapped, but the 1000rr shock is longer...314 mm eye to eye with 11.5 kg spring (at least for the 2007 MY).

Another source says 314 mm for the '06 - '07 and 300 mm for the '08 to '12 (Ohlins replacement is 302 mm).

So, the '06 - '07 may be too long, even with flux MKII plates...come to think of it, might work if all spacers were removed from the clevis. '08 - '12 closer in length to alternatives listed in the first post. :hmm:

I don't have any specs on the 2012 + MYs yet though.

 

[pretzel]

more info for suspension geeks on the 2012+ balance-free rear cushion (with a mention of the D675 at the end of the article):

http://rideapart.com/2011/09/the-cbr1000rrs-balance-free-rear-cushion-explained/

 

[phatplat]

I can't seem to find an answer to this question. Anyone have a fork spring recommendation that will match the CBR shock? I am getting too much brake dive and the front end just seems too squishy. Should I just put a heavier fork oil up there and call it a day? I am 150lbs without gear.

 

[zammer]

Why not just pick up a set of daytona or racetech equivalent springs, and a bit heavier oil?

 

[phatplat]

Thats the question. Daytona springs are longer or shorter, I forget which. The spring companies are only giving me spring information to match the stock rear shock/spring. The oil may be my only option without going full aftermarket.