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The Street Triple Shock Swap Thread

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#61 ·
Honda Shock Settings..

titanium said:
Anyone have a link to advice regarding settings? I have an 09 shock and I'm 200lbs with gear on.
Click to expand...
Start with five clicks added on the pre-load and set the rebound and compression as per the Honda manual for the shock.

Compression : Turn clockwise to stop = full hard. Now turn counter clockwise 20 turns to align dots = Standard setting.

Rebound : Turn clockwise to stop = full hard. Now turn counter clockwise 2 turns to align dots = Standard.

This is the standard setting.

You can tune the shock and settings to suit your weight and road conditions as you want.

Don't force the rebound and compression damping screws .... just a light hand on bottoming them out to start your adjustments.

HTH,

S.
 
#63 ·
pretzel said:
Spooky, what are you getting for rider sag with zero preload? I'm the same weight and will have the same setup - have the plates and shock, just need to get around to installing.
Click to expand...
I've changed my settings since I posted that.

I'm now running on preload position 4 with everything else set at standard Honda specs. However, I still get around 30mm of rear sag [when hot] on the rear shock.

Using the Flux plates [Mk. 2] changes the way the shock behaves on the road, so I changed my settings to suit the way I ride.

My bike is set up for fast back road riding, it is lower than a normal triple and has been stripped of anything I didn't actually need. I followed Stewart's [Flux] lead and set up my bike like he did, lightened it as much as possible and lowered it for better handling.

My black street triple actually looks like a British cafe racer now, with upside down Apex clip-ons and rearsets, stripped down to the bare essentials and she handles very well at high speeds in the corners.

The ride is quite firm, the front end has a set of heavier springs and lighter oil than stock, the rear end a Honda shock set at the positions above.

I am running Dunlop Sportmax Q2's which stick like glue to the road.

Overall, my bike can take or at least stay with anything else out there on the twisty back roads, no problem.

She is a lot of fun to ride fast... :thumbup:

S.
 
#64 · (Edited)
Has anyone taken this set up to the track? I was thinking about getting a aftermarket shock this winter or early seasons but I'm alittle weary of spending 800 plus bucks on a shock. I mostly commute but I would like some decent performance at the track too. I know the stock shock is pretty weak sauce. My friend has an 06 CBR600RR and its great!!! I'm sure with that bike stock I would kick alot more ass. Hopefully I could get the Streety close to that... I'm aware the front needs some work as well which would be another reason to go CBR on the cheap to get the front re-done to match.
 
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#66 ·
Fendy said:
Has anyone had this swap approved by a suspension shop/guru. I have talked to two different techs about doing the swap, and they both laughed at me for even suggesting it.
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Did you laugh back at them? If they can only laugh, without giving objective reason they are probably either ill informed or they want to sell you something.

I took one of these CBR shocks apart and compared it to my old Daytona shock. Internally, it is much better by design, with the exception of the small port piston and preload adjuster. The rebound needle has a better taper, and the comp adjuster has a taper/ orifice as opposed to the goofy non-functional springy valve hootus in the Daytona shock.
 
#67 ·
It went something like " just because a shock from a different bike may fit, it doesn't mean that it's a good match for the bike" along with I can take a look at your suspension and do a custom job for about 1700 bucks.

Dave73, your avatar looks like you ride the track a bit. Do you have the cbr shock on your track bike?
 
#68 ·
Fendy said:
It went something like " just because a shock from a different bike may fit, it doesn't mean that it's a good match for the bike" along with I can take a look at your suspension and do a custom job for about 1700 bucks.
Click to expand...
While that statement is very true, it does not mean it wont work. Its all about the valving.
Fendy said:
Dave73, your avatar looks like you ride the track a bit. Do you have the cbr shock on your track bike?
Click to expand...
No, it has an Elka triple clicker. I have a Daytona shock (with CBR spring) on the Street Triple. I got this CBR shock to try out but never got around to it. Curiosity got the best of me so I took it apart to do some comparing with my old Daytona shock.
 
#73 ·
HaVoK said:
I can't help but notice that some people are running CBR600RR rear shock on a bog standard Street Triple with non adjustable forks.

Doesn't that upset the balance of the bike?

RedRep... PM me about your shock please.

Sent from Motorcycle.com App
Click to expand...
Your question is based on the assumption that the bike was balanced in the first place.

All bikes are built as a compromise, and swapping in a shock with a stiffer spring is a step in the right direction for most riders
 
#74 ·
Dave73 said:
Your question is based on the assumption that the bike was balanced in the first place.

All bikes are built as a compromise, and swapping in a shock with a stiffer spring is a step in the right direction for most riders
Click to expand...
This, except for the fact that the CBR shock has roughly the same spring rate as the bog standard ST shock, not a stiffer one. So it isn't necessarily any less balanced than stock if you set up the damping correctly.

How do you figure that a stiffer spring is a step in the right direction for most riders? It seems that most people here who go aftermarket end up running something softer than 11.3 kg/mm.
 
#75 ·
I didn't measure but the stock rear spring from my standard feels softer than the 11Nm one i have on it now.

I say most riders need something stiffer than the stock standard shock spring because most riders (in the united States) are on the hefty side, like the rest of America
 
#76 ·
Tex2k2013 said:
This, except for the fact(assumption) that the CBR shock has roughly the same spring rate as the bog standard ST shock, not a stiffer one. So it isn't necessarily any less balanced than stock if you set up the damping correctly.

How do you figure that a stiffer spring is a step in the right direction for most riders? It seems that most people here who go aftermarket end up running something softer than 11.3 kg/mm.
Click to expand...
The facts are that the stock ST spring is 8.6 kg/mm and the STR spring is 11.3 kg/mm.
 
#78 · (Edited)
Another CBR shock swap

I just swapped in an 09 CBR600RR shock into my 2010 standard Street Triple. I know there is already a good amount of info out there on this, but more pictures never hurt.

I picked the shock up on ebay for $40 shipped with the plates, dog bone, spacers, and bolts. I recommend this to save some hassle with getting new spacers and bolts (I still needed 2 x 2mm washers for the top of the shock though).
Image


This is what I needed for the swap:
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Here are a couple measurements just for reference. My calipers are cheap so its not the most accurate, but you get the idea. It all matches up with the OP's post.
Image

Image

Image

Image

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For the swap itself, I used this "HOW TO" as a reference. I didn't pull off the wheel though.

I blame the previous owner for the chicken strips cuz I be draggin' knee pulling into parking lots and shiz...
Image


The old and the relatively new:
Image


New bolts and spacers on the left and old on the right. I flipped that last bolt around to mess with people with OCD.
Image


Lastly, thanks to sp00ky's post, I knew to remove the right rear set in order to get to the preload collar. But even then, there wasn't much room with this wrench: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GZP270/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Image


Results:
I weigh 177lbs without gear and at 4/10 preload, 2-1/2 turns from full hard rebound, and 20 clicks from full hard compression, I got 25.5mm of sag (ride height increased by 14mm) and it was harsh as hell. Cornering felt better than the stock anyways because it wasn't a pogo stick, but I felt everything on the ground and my ass even became airborne a couple times from high speed bumps. ANYWHO, I'm going to have to readjust and play around with it for sure.

After reading a bunch of threads, I saw that there was a pretty big discrepancy between shock settings. I, for one, was definitely confused. Here are the shock standard setting differences between the years. I felt that this was particular important for those of us (me) who aren't experienced suspension tuner or even know how properly adjusted suspension feels like. Having a good base to work from is imperative.
Note: Most of these are from Honda Australia because I couldn't find the other versions. Can anyone confirm that these apply to other models too? For the most part, reference dots just have to line up.

2006:
PDF pg 44-47
From OP
Preload: 4/10
Rebound: 2-1/2 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 12 clicks (or 2-1/2?) CCW from full hard

2007:
PDF pg 44-46
Preload: 4/10
Rebound: 2 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 20 clicks CCW from full hard

2008:
PDF pg 45-47
Preload: 2/10
Rebound: 2-1/4 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 24 clicks CCW from full hard

2009:
PDF pg 49-51
US version?
Preload: 2/10
Rebound: 2-1/4 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 24 clicks CCW from full hard

Figures for reference:
Weight: 177lbs w/o gear

Changing:
Shock from STOCK to CBR (Preload at 4 clicks) => +14mm ride height (measured from axle up to a point), Static sag= 5.5mm, Rider sag = 25.5mm
CBR preload at 4 to 3 => -2mm ride height, Static sag = 7.5mm, Rider sag = 27.5mm
CBR preload 3 to 2 => -3.5mm ride height, Static sag = 11mm, Rider sag = 31mm

So currently at Preload 2 on the CBR shock, I am +8.5mm in ride height from stock.

Being a bit heavier than the honda "standard", I thought that it was kind of strange that my sag is near perfect for road just with 2 clicks of preload. I'm pretty sure this can be attributed to a difference in leverage ratios between our bikes and the CBR. This is a good thing to keep in mind, especially if anyone has plans to use FLUXII plates because the ratio and possibly these other settings will change again.
 
#79 · (Edited)
I finally got around to installing my shock and linkage last weekend. Everything went fine, but for the life of me I can't get the preload adjusted. I've tried with the shock on the bike, off the bike, with the rearset removed, with two different preload tools (spanners), including one that I ground narrower to fit the collar, hammer and screwdriver, and sprayed PB Blaster on the thing, but it won't budge. WTH am I doing wrong? :angry:

This is the 07-08 cbr shock with the black collar...are the 09+ shocks with the aluminum collar easier to adjust?
 
#80 ·
Wondering about the angle on a standard Street now that I have the 08 CBR shock installed. Seems to steer a bit more aggressively, as would be expected by the more extreme geometry. Has anyone lowered the forks in the triple tree to compensate a bit?
 
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