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Awesome catch on just removing the rear sets to get access to the preload. I took out the bottom 2 screws and used a wench to support the bike and ratchet it up a bit to gain access. But your way is a lot easier. And isnt the cbr shock spring sprung less then the daytona's?
I believe the stock D675 has a stronger spring, yes.

I have a pit-bitch here too, but she isn't strong enough to man-handle the bike... so I had to come up with an easier way to adjust the pre-load without removing the shock like I did the first time I tried it.

Now it's very simple with the removal of one or both of the rear sets and just slip a C-spanner in there to get just enough purchase to turn the adjuster.

S.
 
So will this solution work for us Daytona riders that might come in way under the target rider weight? (I think I know the answer but just wanna make sure.)
well, Ill do this mod mostly for cosmectics... i dont like the yellow spring neither the gold reservoir.

besides, i dont know why but my spring is peeling and theres a few big white stains in the grey reservoir holder.
ugly as shit.
 
Well, I got the CBR Honda shock really sorted out today.

I'm very happy with it now. :nod:

The bike is handling beautifully and my corner speeds have improved because of it. The BT003RS tires are getting shredded nicely, there is no chattering or mis-behaving over the bumps at max lean angles under full throttle exits from the rear end, just beautiful controllable power slides and nice black lines out of the corners...:thumbup:

Lovin' it...


S.
 
post pics please!
I`m wondering how it will handle on my daytona!
It should be fine, I believe that the CBR600rr shock is a quality product.

Even if it doesn't suit you, it's so cheap that you really can't afford to pass it up, so it's definitely worth a try.

It may not be of the same outright quality of a Penske or Elka that is specifically made for the Triumph, but where can you buy one of those for around $50 ???...

As a cheap upgrade it's practically unbeatable. . . :nod:

I'll try to get some pics up but there's not much to see... If you've seen one Honda shock, you've seen them all...:laugh:

Let me say that fitting the new shock has completely cured my rebound damping woes I had with the OEM stock shock. Even with the Flux plates I couldn't get rid of the ridges on my rear tire on the edges of the sipes, which was caused by insufficient damping.

Now with the Honda shock the tire is perfect, no ridges on the sipes right across the tire...:thumbup:and a perfect wear pattern on the rubber.

Now all I need to do is fix the front end, which is going to be a *lot* more expensive, methinks.

S.
 
Anyone know the dimensions of the cbr shock spring? Approx measurments without removing the unit are 2" inside dia.and 7" overall lenght.
I need the exact sizes as I'm thimking of replacing it for a softer one(9.7kg/mm)
Also,anyone know where I can obtain one off the shelf?
cheers guys
 
Question: Will the CBR shock work with FLUX plates? Is there any benefit?
Initially I just fitted a cbr shock and a vast improvement compared to standard shock.Only downside it raises the ride height,measured at furthest point (bottom of rear numberplate to floor) by 15mm and the bike oversteers but easy to sort out.

Next,I fitted the mk 11 flux plates along with the cbr shock.This lowers the rear of the bike by 5mm compared to standard shock and standard plates.
Result,the bike runs brilliantly on high speed corners just as sp00ky has mentioned.Only downside,the bike understeers on slow speed cornering but again can easily be sorted.

You can still retain the standard ride height if only fitting the cbr shock without the flux plates by removing the spacer fitted between the clevis holding the top of the shock and the frame.
 
Initially I just fitted a cbr shock and a vast improvement compared to standard shock.Only downside it raises the ride height,measured at furthest point (bottom of rear numberplate to floor) by 15mm and the bike oversteers but easy to sort out.

Next,I fitted the mk 11 flux plates along with the cbr shock.This lowers the rear of the bike by 5mm compared to standard shock and standard plates.
Result,the bike runs brilliantly on high speed corners just as sp00ky has mentioned.Only downside,the bike understeers on slow speed cornering but again can easily be sorted.

You can still retain the standard ride height if only fitting the cbr shock without the flux plates by removing the spacer fitted between the clevis holding the top of the shock and the frame.
Is this on a Street Triple? Thing is, I'm contemplating a CBR shock swap on an '06 Daytona with FLUX MK1 plates. The shocks are an identical height, so I'd imagine ride height would be the same as FLUX MK1 plates on a stock Daytona shock, right?
 
Is this on a Street Triple? Thing is, I'm contemplating a CBR shock swap on an '06 Daytona with FLUX MK1 plates. The shocks are an identical height, so I'd imagine ride height would be the same as FLUX MK1 plates on a stock Daytona shock, right?[/quote]

Yes,should have mentioned my bike is a street triple.
 
Fluxing Plates ...

Is this on a Street Triple? Thing is, I'm contemplating a CBR shock swap on an '06 Daytona with FLUX MK1 plates. The shocks are an identical height, so I'd imagine ride height would be the same as FLUX MK1 plates on a stock Daytona shock, right?
You would be better off fitting the Mk II Flux plates with the CBR shock because it lowers the rear of the bike just enough for those of us who are "vertically challenged" or who have "gnomish" legs...:laugh:

I had a few problems with the stock plates and the CBR shock simply because it raises the rear of the bike quite a bit, so moving the bike around on uneven ground on tippy-toes was not a fun thing. However, the bike had tons of ground clearance and high speed corners were/are a real treat.

Longer legged or taller riders wouldn't have this problem...:whistle:

Anyway, I decided to fit the Mk II Flux plates and they did the trick, the bike came back to close to standard height at the rear. If you use the Mk I plates I think it will be a fraction too high.

I still have the superb handling of the Honda shock with the ability to adjust the rebound and compression damping, as well as the ride height using the pre-load adjuster if needed. I'm currently using no pre-load at all, but if I desire more ground clearance or ride height it's a simple matter of adding a click or two of pre-load.

Having dropped the rear of the bike to a more reasonable level, I now find that I am scraping the belly pan in high speed corners so today I removed it and now everything works just great.
I'm also thinking of raising the fork in the triple clamp like Flux has done on his "Sleeper" back road weapon... but only to around 5mm's of gold showing above the top clamp.

Today's ride was a beauty, the bike is flying through the bends like it's on rails. The Mk II Flux plates don't take all the sting out of the bumps, but I didn't expect them to do so, especially because the Honda spring is not the same as the stock Daytona or street triple rising rate ones, and i'm not really heavy enough to make the spring work that hard.
Even so, the Honda shock and Flux plates work superbly, and is a LOT cheaper than buying a Penske or other after market shock.

For me, the Honda shock is set on zero pre-load, almost no compression damping, and four clicks of rebound damping. I weight around 165LB.

Bridgestone 003RS sticky rubber front and rear. Luverly...:nod: Nice wear patterns right to the edges of the tires.

Pick up a set of Mk II's if you can and give them a try.

S.
 
Just did this mod on my Street Triple R.
Bought the shock on ebay for $40 and honestly i think it is brand new. There are no wear marks, no dirt, even the hydraulics look brand new.

Couldnt get the old Honda C spanner from my last bike to work the pre-load, so it is stuck on setting 2 for the moment. Can easily get to the preload with the gear side rear set unbolted. I guess the old C spanner is just poor quality....will have to get another one.

Ride hight doesnt seem to have changed at all.

I put the bike on the rear stand and then used an A frame ladder and a strap to hold the bike up whilst i did the job. I used various bits of wood to move the bolt positions around so that i could remove/install either side of the exhaust. Total job took 1hr.

I got my mate to machine up 2x2mm and 2x4.5mm M10 washers with 17mm OD out of SS316. The CBR shock had all the bolts i needed, and one of the bushes from the CBR Dogbone was used to space out the dogbone on the Triumph....So basically the only cost was a $40 shock.

Will test ride tomorrow.
 
Just snagged an '07 shock with 2800 miles off ebay for $35 shipped. I'll try to remember to post up pix when i tackle the install.

question about the longer bolts that are needed- are you guys getting bolts with only the end threaded and smooth middle section like the stock ones, or getting fully threaded bolts and just going with it? I assume the latter would be easiest to find at a hardware store but probably a bad idea huh? The Honda bolts are 62mm and cost about $3.50 on bike bandit, maybe that's the cheapest option?
 
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