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Discussion starter · #22 ·
based on this thread: stock rearshock instalation - Triumph675.Net Forums, the freeplay in the bottom of the rearshock is mandatory.

so, do you guys are sure about removing 100% of the freeplay?

maybe using 12 washers (2mm thick), 6 in each bolt on linkage plate in order to create a freeplay of 3mm would be better...
What you are seeing there is the shock mount bushing. The triangle plates mount/butt up against the shock bushing (which the mounting bolt goes through), and the bushing is part of the lower mount.

There are no spacers used here though with the CBR600RR rear shock conversion because this lower mount on the new shock is what requires bushings elsewhere in the other triangle plate mounts. The CBR600RR rear shock mount bushing is wider at 39mm vs the 30mm width of the stock Street Triple bushing. So spacers are added to the other two triangle plate mounting points to compensate.

Good question though and it is better to be cautious/safe than sorry when it comes to this stuff!
 
What you are seeing there is the shock mount bushing. The triangle plates mount/butt up against the shock bushing (which the mounting bolt goes through), and the bushing is part of the lower mount.

There are no spacers used here though with the CBR600RR rear shock conversion because this lower mount on the new shock is what requires bushings elsewhere in the other triangle plate mounts. The CBR600RR rear shock mount bushing is wider at 39mm vs the 30mm width of the stock Street Triple bushing. So spacers are added to the other two triangle plate mounting points to compensate.

Good question though and it is better to be cautious/safe than sorry when it comes to this stuff!
I thought the bushing in the CBR600rr is exactly the size of the lower mount, because I don't see any space between the lower month and the plates, as you can see in this pic:

Image


so, looks like there is no freeplay in the lower mount.
 
well, I don't know...

I look those pics @ eBay and seems there is no freeplay in the bottom mount, different from our triples:

Image


Image


maybe a longer bushing should be used.

anyone owns a CBR? perhaps you can check if there's any freeplay in the top mount.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
It may look like there isn't a width difference between the bushing and the lower section of the mount (the pictures are at angles that make it hard to discern) but there is; I would say around 1mm difference on each side.

Before I put the CBR600RR shock on I measured the bushing widths with a digital caliper and remember the bushing mounting surface definately being above the rest of the mount section. I didn't measure the mount section at the time though. As long as there is no binding or contact outside of the bushing then less or more free play (to a point) won't matter.

I'll see if I can get a good picture tomorrow showing the clearance that the CBR600RR shock has with the triangle plates' surface. :cool:
 
All the clamping force should be on the sleve inside the bushings. As long as the shock body is not being squished in the plates you are good to go.

Im still curious how these compare performance wise to the stock Daytona or R shock.
 
what do I need for mounting the CBR's rearshock in my 2007 Daytona?
same as Street Triple?
If your cbr shock comes with the linkage plate and dogbone, you may not need any spacers for the lower mount points if it comes with the 39 mm bearings. My ebay shock included the bolts as well. You'll still need the 2mm (2) spacers for the top mount.

If I install my shock this way, I'll have an extra set of four 4.5mm washers for sale at cost if anybody wants them. I also have a bunch of 2mm washers, as they came in a package of 100...or you can get them at mcmaster.com as previously mentioned. They have a great website and ship very quickly.
 
I'm sure a 230lbs. guy like me this won't help with it at all. I know I need slightly stiffer front springs in the forks, and a different spring in the rear for mine because of my build. Still a great thread to read and learn up on. Might be able to get a spring much cheaper for that CBR shock then ours. I might look into this a little deeper.
 
Settings... 2009 Shock.

To save some of you the hassle of having to remove the shock a couple of times to get the *stock* pre-load correct on the 2009 Honda CB600RR shock, here are the factory settings straight from the workshop manual.

Pre-load: Position 4. [*not 7*].

Compression damping: 20 clicks out.

Rebound: 2 turns out.

For lighter riders ...[under 160lb] pre-load position 2 or 3. For heavier riders, pre-load position 4 or 5.

I found it impossible to change the pre-load once the shock is on the bike.

There wasn't enough room to get the "C" spanner in there.

The shock with the above stock settings raises the rear end about 1/2" ...

My shock is a 2009 edition. I used the bolts and bushings from the Honda dog bone and plates which came with my eBay shock, no spacers needed except for the 2x2mm stainless washers on the top shock bolt position.

A fairly easy conversion to do, it took me about an hour the first time and half that when I had to remove it again to adjust the pre-load.

I want to dump the longer stock Honda bushings and go with the stock Triumph ones when I obtain some correct size spacers. The Honda bushings work fine except that they are too exposed to dirt and crud from the rear wheel.

Overall, a very worthy conversion and 100% better than the stock Triumph rear shock. No more kicking your arse out of the seat over high speed bumps now.:thumbup:

Handling is a little different because of the slightly raised rear end, so tip-in is easier and quicker. The best thing about this shock conversion is the damping! It's a huge improvement over the standard un-adjustable street triple and you can tune it in to suit your style of riding perfectly.

For a lousy $50 or thereabouts, you can't go wrong! :nod:

The *only* downsides are : You can't adjust the pre-load easily, and it makes the stock front end feel like crap.

S.
 
How did you change the preload with the shock out of the bike? I tried on mine, but the shaft just rotated in the shock body.
Place the bottom of the shock in a vice, use soft jaws in the vice, then turn the adjuster with a C spanner.

The top half will rotate with the C spanner as you turn the adjuster, but once you have the correct pre-load set...simply grab the top canister and turn the
shock until the top bolt hole lines up to the bottom....then you can re-fit it to the bike.

To make things a bit easier, give the adjuster a short squirt of chain lube first...

S.
 
I found out today how to adjust the pre-load with the Honda shock *on* the bike....

I just needed to remove the footrests... :thumbup:

This gives me enough room to get the C spanner in and connected to the adjuster.

Tried positions 1 to five, settled on 3.

Everything is working just fine, the handling is much improved over the stock Triumph shock.

I rate this shock mod right up there with the 1050 throttle tube one.

Cheap, easy and effective.... :nod:


S.
 
Awesome catch on just removing the rear sets to get access to the preload. I took out the bottom 2 screws and used a wench to support the bike and ratchet it up a bit to gain access. But your way is a lot easier. And isnt the cbr shock spring sprung less then the daytona's?
 
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