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The Street Triple Shock Swap Thread

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81K views 113 replies 33 participants last post by  phatplat  
G
#1 · (Edited)
Commentary:

I've been doing quite a bit of research on the standard Street Triple's rear shock and upgrade path options that are affordable.

The typical upgrade path seems, for cheap, to be the Daytona model shock. I know there are '06-'08 and '09+ models that are different for the Daytona, and from what I can gather, the differences SHOULD be with the shock itself (spring rate/damping changes) as I gather from Flux's/others threads that the suspension plates are identical across the different Daytona years, and are also identical to both Street Triple models.

I am looking for something different. It seems there are two other possible choices for shock swaps as far as physical fitment goes, being the 07+ CBR600RR and the '09+ YZF-R1. The CBR600RR shock is a verified fit with spacers needed. I canont verify the R1 fitment.

I have read various things about the stock rear shock, some think it is highly oversprung, others think it is highly undersprung. I weigh in at 165 lbs; with gear, maybe another 7-10 lbs or so. I think the stock shock spring rate feels about right, but it still feels harsh over bigger bumps, which makes sense after reading Flux's thread on the curve of the rising rate setup in the rear. On top of that, others have confirmed that the Daytona 675 spring is not a linear spring, but actually progressively wound, by close to a change of 2 kg/mm from beginning to end. We can assume the Street Triple also has a progressively wound spring, then.

These two factors combined are probably the cause for the confusion and mixed feedback. That and Race-Tech's statistics/formula's for these bikes just seems to be wrong (or the level of rising rate in the rear makes it hard to provide a recommendation). So, it probably is undersprung for the first bit of travel (hard to get static/rider sag set), and at the same time, is incredibly harsh after the first bit (much taken up by sag) of travel.

SO, we get to our other options for rear shocks. I don't really want a much higher spring rate, so the Daytona shock is possible, but not preferred. The R1's spring rate is much lower, maybe too low, I don't know because I haven't tried it. I am going to be doing some 2 up riding, so I am going to give the CBR600RR shock a try. They are plentiful and cheap on ebay, and are actually quite a decent unit from shock dyno results and opinions I have read. The length right on the money.

I have read some opinions that the shock is probably a terrible fit because of "totally different spring and damping setups" or whatever; being an OEM shock, the primary concern is the spring rate, and it is about right, compared to our stock shock. The damping is set from the producer according to only the spring rate. The amount of damping is of no concern to the linkage setup; the shock is "oblivious" to the linkage setup. So these comments are simply incorrect.

Thanks to the help of forum members, I was pointed in the direction of a post over on street-triple.co.uk that has some more details on the fitment of the CBR600RR shock. I have added all of the details to this post up to the time of this posting. You can read the full thread here: http://www.street-triple.co.uk/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=9381.0

Specifications:

Street Triple
  • Shock Length: 289/290 mm (two different sources)
  • Spring Rate: 11.28 kg/mm
  • Shock Stroke:
  • Top Bushing Mount Width: 30 mm
  • Bottom Bushing Mount Width: 30 mm
  • Weight: 2.81 kg
Daytona 675
  • Shock Length: 293/295 mm (two different sources)
  • Spring Rate: 12.6 kg/mm
  • Shock Stroke:
  • Top Bushing Mount Width: 30 mm
  • Bottom Bushing Mount Width: 30 mm
Street Triple R
  • Shock Length: 293/295 mm (two different sources)
  • Spring Rate: 12.1-12.2 kg/mm (two different sources)
  • Shock Stroke:
  • Top Bushing Mount Width: 30 mm
  • Bottom Bushing Mount Width: 30 mm
'07+ CBR600R
  • Shock Length: 293 mm
  • Spring Rate: 11.00 kg/mm
  • Shock Stroke: 60 mm
  • Top Bushing Mount Width: 26 mm
  • Bottom Bushing Mount Width: 39 mm
  • Weight: 2.54 kg
'09+ YZF-R1
  • Shock Length:
  • Spring Rate: 10.00 kg/mm
  • Shock Stroke:
If you have any of the missing values, or think others may be important, please let me know.
The CBR600RR shock upper and lower mounting points aren't the same width (either the top or bottom) as our Street Triple or Daytona counterparts. The top bushing section is 4 mm thinner and the bottom is 9 mm larger. Washers seem to be the easiest solution here. The stock three bolts that are used on the plates that interface the shock, linkage, and frame are 52.5mm long.

Since there looks like there is 5 or so mm or more of extra thread with the stock bolts, 60 mm to 65 mm should work fine. I am using the OEM 62mm bolts for 07+ CBR600RR's ordered from bikebandit.com. Torque these bolts to 33 lb/ft., according to the CBR600RR service manual.

Materials:

Upper Mount:
  • 2 - 2mm thick M10 washers, mcmaster.com part number 93475A280
Lower mount:
  • 3 - M10 x 62 x 1.25 mm CBR600RR shock bolts, bikebandit.com part number 721180
  • 4 - 4.5 mm thick M10 washers, mcmaster.com part number 94768A106
The 4.5 mm thick washers very well may need to be ground/sanded, because the range is 4.5mm to 5.4mm, and we want 4.5mm. The fact is, NO washer is going to be precise, the only likely way it would work out with no fine tuning is if you went to a machine shop and had spacers made.

Well, I recieved the McMaster Carr 4.5mm and 2mm spacers. I've measured both with digital calipers that are accurate to +/- .01mm. Accurate enough for this no question.

Between the four 4.5mm washers, they ranged from 4.53 mm to 4.56 mm, this should be no problem! I can't imagine their range of up to 5.4 mm that they have listed is right, unless my four were from a batch that just happened to be very precise and other batches are way off? I doubt it.

The 2 mm washers varied from 1.88 mm to 2.13 mm. The vast majority were around 2.08 to 2.12 mm, but I picked out a couple in the pack of 50 that were about 1.99 to 2.02 mm depending on where I measured around the diameter of the washer. These should work fine too!

Cost:
  • '09 CBR600RR shock - $32.95
  • 4 x M10 4.5 mm washer - $20.60
  • 50 pack M10 2 mm washer - $4.07
  • 3 x M10 x 62 x 1.25 bolts - $9.81 + $8.95 s/h
Total: $76.38

Other:

Recommended Initial Settings (165 lb. rider, no gear):

  • Preload - Setting 4 of 7 for 07/08 shocks, 7 out of 10 for 09+ shocks
  • Compression Damping - 20 clicks out
  • Rebound Damping - 2 turns out
Installed Picture (not my bike):

Image


Image
 
#41 ·
I believe the stock D675 has a stronger spring, yes.

I have a pit-bitch here too, but she isn't strong enough to man-handle the bike... so I had to come up with an easier way to adjust the pre-load without removing the shock like I did the first time I tried it.

Now it's very simple with the removal of one or both of the rear sets and just slip a C-spanner in there to get just enough purchase to turn the adjuster.

S.
 
#45 ·
Well, I got the CBR Honda shock really sorted out today.

I'm very happy with it now. :nod:

The bike is handling beautifully and my corner speeds have improved because of it. The BT003RS tires are getting shredded nicely, there is no chattering or mis-behaving over the bumps at max lean angles under full throttle exits from the rear end, just beautiful controllable power slides and nice black lines out of the corners...:thumbup:

Lovin' it...


S.
 
#47 ·
It should be fine, I believe that the CBR600rr shock is a quality product.

Even if it doesn't suit you, it's so cheap that you really can't afford to pass it up, so it's definitely worth a try.

It may not be of the same outright quality of a Penske or Elka that is specifically made for the Triumph, but where can you buy one of those for around $50 ???...

As a cheap upgrade it's practically unbeatable. . . :nod:

I'll try to get some pics up but there's not much to see... If you've seen one Honda shock, you've seen them all...:laugh:

Let me say that fitting the new shock has completely cured my rebound damping woes I had with the OEM stock shock. Even with the Flux plates I couldn't get rid of the ridges on my rear tire on the edges of the sipes, which was caused by insufficient damping.

Now with the Honda shock the tire is perfect, no ridges on the sipes right across the tire...:thumbup:and a perfect wear pattern on the rubber.

Now all I need to do is fix the front end, which is going to be a *lot* more expensive, methinks.

S.
 
N
#50 ·
Initially I just fitted a cbr shock and a vast improvement compared to standard shock.Only downside it raises the ride height,measured at furthest point (bottom of rear numberplate to floor) by 15mm and the bike oversteers but easy to sort out.

Next,I fitted the mk 11 flux plates along with the cbr shock.This lowers the rear of the bike by 5mm compared to standard shock and standard plates.
Result,the bike runs brilliantly on high speed corners just as sp00ky has mentioned.Only downside,the bike understeers on slow speed cornering but again can easily be sorted.

You can still retain the standard ride height if only fitting the cbr shock without the flux plates by removing the spacer fitted between the clevis holding the top of the shock and the frame.
 
N
#53 ·
Is this on a Street Triple? Thing is, I'm contemplating a CBR shock swap on an '06 Daytona with FLUX MK1 plates. The shocks are an identical height, so I'd imagine ride height would be the same as FLUX MK1 plates on a stock Daytona shock, right?[/quote]

Yes,should have mentioned my bike is a street triple.
 
R
#57 ·
Just did this mod on my Street Triple R.
Bought the shock on ebay for $40 and honestly i think it is brand new. There are no wear marks, no dirt, even the hydraulics look brand new.

Couldnt get the old Honda C spanner from my last bike to work the pre-load, so it is stuck on setting 2 for the moment. Can easily get to the preload with the gear side rear set unbolted. I guess the old C spanner is just poor quality....will have to get another one.

Ride hight doesnt seem to have changed at all.

I put the bike on the rear stand and then used an A frame ladder and a strap to hold the bike up whilst i did the job. I used various bits of wood to move the bolt positions around so that i could remove/install either side of the exhaust. Total job took 1hr.

I got my mate to machine up 2x2mm and 2x4.5mm M10 washers with 17mm OD out of SS316. The CBR shock had all the bolts i needed, and one of the bushes from the CBR Dogbone was used to space out the dogbone on the Triumph....So basically the only cost was a $40 shock.

Will test ride tomorrow.
 
P
#58 ·
Just snagged an '07 shock with 2800 miles off ebay for $35 shipped. I'll try to remember to post up pix when i tackle the install.

question about the longer bolts that are needed- are you guys getting bolts with only the end threaded and smooth middle section like the stock ones, or getting fully threaded bolts and just going with it? I assume the latter would be easiest to find at a hardware store but probably a bad idea huh? The Honda bolts are 62mm and cost about $3.50 on bike bandit, maybe that's the cheapest option?
 
#61 ·
Honda Shock Settings..



Start with five clicks added on the pre-load and set the rebound and compression as per the Honda manual for the shock.

Compression : Turn clockwise to stop = full hard. Now turn counter clockwise 20 turns to align dots = Standard setting.

Rebound : Turn clockwise to stop = full hard. Now turn counter clockwise 2 turns to align dots = Standard.

This is the standard setting.

You can tune the shock and settings to suit your weight and road conditions as you want.

Don't force the rebound and compression damping screws .... just a light hand on bottoming them out to start your adjustments.

HTH,

S.
 
#64 · (Edited)
Has anyone taken this set up to the track? I was thinking about getting a aftermarket shock this winter or early seasons but I'm alittle weary of spending 800 plus bucks on a shock. I mostly commute but I would like some decent performance at the track too. I know the stock shock is pretty weak sauce. My friend has an 06 CBR600RR and its great!!! I'm sure with that bike stock I would kick alot more ass. Hopefully I could get the Streety close to that... I'm aware the front needs some work as well which would be another reason to go CBR on the cheap to get the front re-done to match.
 
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#66 ·
Did you laugh back at them? If they can only laugh, without giving objective reason they are probably either ill informed or they want to sell you something.

I took one of these CBR shocks apart and compared it to my old Daytona shock. Internally, it is much better by design, with the exception of the small port piston and preload adjuster. The rebound needle has a better taper, and the comp adjuster has a taper/ orifice as opposed to the goofy non-functional springy valve hootus in the Daytona shock.
 
#67 ·
It went something like " just because a shock from a different bike may fit, it doesn't mean that it's a good match for the bike" along with I can take a look at your suspension and do a custom job for about 1700 bucks.

Dave73, your avatar looks like you ride the track a bit. Do you have the cbr shock on your track bike?
 
#68 ·
Fendy said:
It went something like " just because a shock from a different bike may fit, it doesn't mean that it's a good match for the bike" along with I can take a look at your suspension and do a custom job for about 1700 bucks.
Click to expand...
While that statement is very true, it does not mean it wont work. Its all about the valving.
Fendy said:
Dave73, your avatar looks like you ride the track a bit. Do you have the cbr shock on your track bike?
Click to expand...
No, it has an Elka triple clicker. I have a Daytona shock (with CBR spring) on the Street Triple. I got this CBR shock to try out but never got around to it. Curiosity got the best of me so I took it apart to do some comparing with my old Daytona shock.
 
#75 ·
I didn't measure but the stock rear spring from my standard feels softer than the 11Nm one i have on it now.

I say most riders need something stiffer than the stock standard shock spring because most riders (in the united States) are on the hefty side, like the rest of America
 
#78 · (Edited)
Another CBR shock swap

I just swapped in an 09 CBR600RR shock into my 2010 standard Street Triple. I know there is already a good amount of info out there on this, but more pictures never hurt.

I picked the shock up on ebay for $40 shipped with the plates, dog bone, spacers, and bolts. I recommend this to save some hassle with getting new spacers and bolts (I still needed 2 x 2mm washers for the top of the shock though).
Image


This is what I needed for the swap:
Image


Here are a couple measurements just for reference. My calipers are cheap so its not the most accurate, but you get the idea. It all matches up with the OP's post.
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


For the swap itself, I used this "HOW TO" as a reference. I didn't pull off the wheel though.

I blame the previous owner for the chicken strips cuz I be draggin' knee pulling into parking lots and shiz...
Image


The old and the relatively new:
Image


New bolts and spacers on the left and old on the right. I flipped that last bolt around to mess with people with OCD.
Image


Lastly, thanks to sp00ky's post, I knew to remove the right rear set in order to get to the preload collar. But even then, there wasn't much room with this wrench: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GZP270/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Image


Results:
I weigh 177lbs without gear and at 4/10 preload, 2-1/2 turns from full hard rebound, and 20 clicks from full hard compression, I got 25.5mm of sag (ride height increased by 14mm) and it was harsh as hell. Cornering felt better than the stock anyways because it wasn't a pogo stick, but I felt everything on the ground and my ass even became airborne a couple times from high speed bumps. ANYWHO, I'm going to have to readjust and play around with it for sure.

After reading a bunch of threads, I saw that there was a pretty big discrepancy between shock settings. I, for one, was definitely confused. Here are the shock standard setting differences between the years. I felt that this was particular important for those of us (me) who aren't experienced suspension tuner or even know how properly adjusted suspension feels like. Having a good base to work from is imperative.
Note: Most of these are from Honda Australia because I couldn't find the other versions. Can anyone confirm that these apply to other models too? For the most part, reference dots just have to line up.

2006:
PDF pg 44-47
From OP
Preload: 4/10
Rebound: 2-1/2 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 12 clicks (or 2-1/2?) CCW from full hard

2007:
PDF pg 44-46
Preload: 4/10
Rebound: 2 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 20 clicks CCW from full hard

2008:
PDF pg 45-47
Preload: 2/10
Rebound: 2-1/4 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 24 clicks CCW from full hard

2009:
PDF pg 49-51
US version?
Preload: 2/10
Rebound: 2-1/4 turns CCW from full hard
Compression: 24 clicks CCW from full hard

Figures for reference:
Weight: 177lbs w/o gear

Changing:
Shock from STOCK to CBR (Preload at 4 clicks) => +14mm ride height (measured from axle up to a point), Static sag= 5.5mm, Rider sag = 25.5mm
CBR preload at 4 to 3 => -2mm ride height, Static sag = 7.5mm, Rider sag = 27.5mm
CBR preload 3 to 2 => -3.5mm ride height, Static sag = 11mm, Rider sag = 31mm

So currently at Preload 2 on the CBR shock, I am +8.5mm in ride height from stock.

Being a bit heavier than the honda "standard", I thought that it was kind of strange that my sag is near perfect for road just with 2 clicks of preload. I'm pretty sure this can be attributed to a difference in leverage ratios between our bikes and the CBR. This is a good thing to keep in mind, especially if anyone has plans to use FLUXII plates because the ratio and possibly these other settings will change again.
 
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