Just purchased a 2009 CBR600RR rear shock on ebay for $32.95..... shipped. Like I said, dirt cheap. This one looks quite literally brand new, i would guess it has under 1,500 miles on it. There were a couple of others equally well priced, one with around 700 and the other 900 miles, but they were 07 or 08 models and apparently in 09 they changed the spanner part of the spring collar assembly to aluminum instead of steel and the geek in me wanted that.

I'll find out soon if this will work well or not. :cool2:

 

Hi Garn, I read some good material on the CBR600 07 - 08 on the UK street triple forum, with good reviews. I'm thinking about this myself.
It goes over in detail about what mounting issues there are and basically is just a matter of using some washers as spacers on both ends top is 4mm narrower and bottom is 9mm wider.

 

Awesome, thanks for the direction there. I think I may have run across that when Googling, but stopped when I saw I had to register to view it. I should have registered!

So I did and am reading through the entire thread. I'm going to post some fitment details in the first post as I go along, so hopefully all of the information needed will be in one posting!

 

Interesting mode, if the results are as good as they seem to be then its deff worth it.

 

I finally received my OEM Honda 62mm bolts. Put the bike on a stand and loosened all of the bolts/nuts I would be removing, then used a ratchet strap from my pull up bar to suspend the rear of the bike just barely off the stand. Removed the triangle plates and old shock (making sure to note or mark the plates orientation), greased up the joints and reassembled everything with the new rear shock and needed spacers.


Everything looks good and for my weight, 165 lbs. (without gear), and a preload of 7 out of 10 on the 09+ shock, sag seemed to be just right! Wow the suggested preload I looked up was actually spot on for my weight...


Measuring from the top of the hollow axle hole to the very edge of the rear body work:


Extended position (on kickstand and pulled up) - 58.5 cm
Static sag - 57.5 cm
Rider sag - 55.5 cm


So 30mm of total sag, about where I want to be.


I'm going to go ride her for the REAL test, shortly!

 

Took it for a spin yesterday evening and from what I can tell so far, it feels less bouncy/more controlled.. like it has good damping. It still feels solid/stiff, but me coming from a supermoto type bike, that's expected. Well controlled would be the stand out word to describe it compared to the stock shock.

The springrate is clearly about where it should be for my weight, since correct sag was easily obtained based on existing recommended settings.

In my excitement to put it on, I didn't re-verify the length of the new shock, but I will get the length of the original shock shortly, just to verify what number I've looked up. When I first got back on the bike it felt like it was slightly higher in the rear, but it seemed to settle in some after some bouncing on the rear. It does "seem" to have a bit sharper steering, not nervous feeling, just more agile. This could all be placebo though and I should have been more prepared or aware, but I was just too focused on getting the new shock in once I finally got my bolts in the mail.

At most I would say the rear may be 5mm higher, which could easily be corrected by lowering the front tubes 5mm if preferred.

I haven't pushed the bike hard yet (with the old or new shock honestly) and I'm no track rider, but if I get a better feel for the new shock and its benefits, I will post my findings!

 

T......... It still feels solid/stiff, but me coming from a supermoto type bike, that's expected.

You may want to look into replacing the linkage plates.

 

First off, thanks to the OP for the all the info.

I threw a '07 CBR600RR shock in my '10 Street Triple this weekend. As many are saying, it's an incredible upgrade. And the bang for your buck is out of this world (you can thank squids for totaling all of their bikes on their first fast corner)

I took off my exhaust and removed the subframe tray so I could work in a clean and clear fashion. Didn't want to get sloppy with such a critical aspect of the bike. There's alot of info out there as to the exact measurements of shimming required for the CBR shock. I had much different results, but it's perfect and rock solid, so I advise that you do your own work instead of relying on someone else's data there. You'll need to suspend the bike to take the weight off the rear. I just used ratcheted tie downs hooked onto the subframe and hung from the support beams in the shop.

Long story short, your'e just taking up the slack with steel washers (not aluminum) and you'll have to extend the distance of the drop plate links to accommodate the wider bottom end of the Honda shock. This is where most of your time will be spent shimming. You'll want the distance at all three points to be the same so the load is being dispersed evenly (I recommend using a digital caliper), otherwise you'll opening the possibility of stressing one area more than another, leading to a failure.

Make sure the three bolts you get are the "fine" 1.25 pitch thread, which will also disperse the needed 48nm (35ft lb) of torque properly. I threw a little blue loctite on for safety's sake, which'll add approx 15ft lbs without any extra stress on the bolt threads. I couldn't find any M10 1.25 in 60 or 65mm so I just cut down and shaped 80mm's.

All that said, once you pluck the stock shock out, you really realize how much of a budget component it was. The new ride feels so much more planted and stable. Puts down power very well and absorbs all the roads imperfections wonderfully. It'll increase the ride height quite a bit in the rear from stock as well, so you'll have a sharper turn-in too. You'll also notice that the bike leans over more on the kickstand afterwards.

For anyone interested in doing the same, I highly recommend it as the one of the first mods to do. Replacing the bike's weakest, critical component. Below is a link to the Honda's recommended stock settings from the owner's manual so you have a base point. 2007 Honda CBR600RR Rear Suspension (Owners Manual) PDF

- - - - - - - - -

Here's my settings for 170lbs w/ gear, which gave me a perfect 30mm SAG.

Preload: 4 of 7
Rebound Damping: 1/2 turn out from full stiff
Comp Damping: 6 clicks out from full stiff

- - - - - - - - -

Pic of the shock freshly mounted and torqued in.

 

I purchased a shock and bolts and I am waiting for it to arrive. I just wanted some opinions on steering turn in. Is is now extreme or only just noticeable

 

If there is a difference, it certainly isn't extreme. I feel like it has a more agile steering feel to it, but not even enough to make me completely confident that the difference I feel isn't just placebo "expected" effect..

The difference in shock length is only about ~3mm. From what I can gather this shock is the same length as the Street Triple R rear shock, which accounts for the slightly taller seat height the Street Triple R has compared to the standard model.

 

Keep in mind, any raise in seat height exasperates the nad crush phenomenon. I dialed in an extra .2" and found I was sliding into the tank quite a bit more. I think this would be acceptable for track use, but found it annoying just riding around, and returned it to OEM-spec length.

 

For me, I've found out that sitting much closer up towards the tank is more comfortable anyways, so it may not be an issue for some that like that seating location.

I find that it keeps my knees up higher on the tank where they should be (I'm 5'11" with a 32" inseam so its not because I'm very short, about average..), it seems to keep my back in a position where I can keep it steady, as apposed to always adjusting the curve of my spine to find what feels "right," and it pretty much removes any space that would allow you to slide forward.

But yea, because of the curvature of the seat, if you sit back in the seat, where it is already angled forwards, a small increase in rear end height may make itself known.

Regardless, from every measurement I can find, this shock shouldn't increase the height of the rear end or seat height any more than how the Street Triple R is out of the box.

 

Some more info from over on the street-triple.co.uk message board referenced in my first post:

I measured the ST shock at 285mm eye to eye and the CBR shock at 289mm. The ride height on a paddock stand was 540mm for the ST and 546mm for the CBR. This was measured from the bottom of the rear light to the flat on the top of the swingarm by the adjuster

I'm mostly interested in his measurement before/after of the rear height change of 6mm. This is good to see an actual measurement. Stupid me totally forgot to do this!

His measurements on the shock are strange, but as long as they are accurate in the length change, I'm not so concerned about the precision compared to the numbers I've looked up.

 

what do I need for mounting the CBR's rearshock in my 2007 Daytona?
same as Street Triple?

 

If your cbr shock comes with the linkage plate and dogbone, you may not need any spacers for the lower mount points if it comes with the 39 mm bearings. My ebay shock included the bolts as well. You'll still need the 2mm (2) spacers for the top mount.

If I install my shock this way, I'll have an extra set of four 4.5mm washers for sale at cost if anybody wants them. I also have a bunch of 2mm washers, as they came in a package of 100...or you can get them at mcmaster.com as previously mentioned. They have a great website and ship very quickly.

 

You need

3 of these, so 2 orders as they come 2 in a set
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....dll?ViewItem&item=310230591493&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1883wt_939

Need to order 1 set of these as you need 2 total washers
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI....dll?ViewItem&item=350120984183&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_1701wt_905

And you will need part number 85210491a from a ducati dealer as those are 1.5mm thick m10 washers. You will need 12 of those. 6 for each bolt on the linkage plate, 3 on each side.

Basically the top of the cbr shock is thinner then the triumph so you need to fill the 4mm of extra space with one 2mm m10 washer on each side. You can use the stock bolt and nut here.

For the bottom, the cbr shock is 9mm thicker then the triumph, so you need to make up the room with washers on the 2 bolts on the linkage plate that are not on the shock. All 3 stock bolts here need to be replaced by the ones i linked above. You can reuse the stock nuts.

I just got my shock installed, 3 weeks ago was at the track with the stock shock. I have another track day on the 30th, will test it out then and give an impression.

 

based on this thread: stock rearshock instalation - Triumph675.Net Forums the freeplay in the bottom of the rearshock is mandatory.

so, do you guys are sure about removing 100% of the freeplay?

maybe using 12 washers (2mm thick) in each bolt on linkage plate in order to create a freeplay of 3mm would be fine...

 

based on this thread: stock rearshock instalation - Triumph675.Net Forums, the freeplay in the bottom of the rearshock is mandatory.

so, do you guys are sure about removing 100% of the freeplay?

maybe using 12 washers (2mm thick), 6 in each bolt on linkage plate in order to create a freeplay of 3mm would be better...

 

based on this thread: stock rearshock instalation - Triumph675.Net Forums, the freeplay in the bottom of the rearshock is mandatory.

so, do you guys are sure about removing 100% of the freeplay?

maybe using 12 washers (2mm thick), 6 in each bolt on linkage plate in order to create a freeplay of 3mm would be better...

What you are seeing there is the shock mount bushing. The triangle plates mount/butt up against the shock bushing (which the mounting bolt goes through), and the bushing is part of the lower mount.

There are no spacers used here though with the CBR600RR rear shock conversion because this lower mount on the new shock is what requires bushings elsewhere in the other triangle plate mounts. The CBR600RR rear shock mount bushing is wider at 39mm vs the 30mm width of the stock Street Triple bushing. So spacers are added to the other two triangle plate mounting points to compensate.

Good question though and it is better to be cautious/safe than sorry when it comes to this stuff!

 

well, I don't know...

I look those pics @ eBay and seems there is no freeplay in the bottom mount, different from our triples:

maybe a longer bushing should be used.

anyone owns a CBR? perhaps you can check if there's any freeplay in the top mount.

 

It may look like there isn't a width difference between the bushing and the lower section of the mount (the pictures are at angles that make it hard to discern) but there is; I would say around 1mm difference on each side.

Before I put the CBR600RR shock on I measured the bushing widths with a digital caliper and remember the bushing mounting surface definately being above the rest of the mount section. I didn't measure the mount section at the time though. As long as there is no binding or contact outside of the bushing then less or more free play (to a point) won't matter.

I'll see if I can get a good picture tomorrow showing the clearance that the CBR600RR shock has with the triangle plates' surface.

 

All the clamping force should be on the sleve inside the bushings. As long as the shock body is not being squished in the plates you are good to go.

Im still curious how these compare performance wise to the stock Daytona or R shock.

 

I'm sure a 230lbs. guy like me this won't help with it at all. I know I need slightly stiffer front springs in the forks, and a different spring in the rear for mine because of my build. Still a great thread to read and learn up on. Might be able to get a spring much cheaper for that CBR shock then ours. I might look into this a little deeper.

 

well, its very hard to find around here 4.5mm thick M10 washers, so I think Ill combine M10 and M12 washers...

 

Could you please write up a DIY for the CBR shock swap when you mound it on yours? I would like to do this on my bike but not knowledge enough to do it. It will be appreciated by a lot of people. Thanks.

 

there is a how-to in the first page...

 

Settings... 2009 Shock.

To save some of you the hassle of having to remove the shock a couple of times to get the *stock* pre-load correct on the 2009 Honda CB600RR shock, here are the factory settings straight from the workshop manual.

Pre-load: Position 4. [*not 7*].

Compression damping: 20 clicks out.

Rebound: 2 turns out.

For lighter riders ...[under 160lb] pre-load position 2 or 3. For heavier riders, pre-load position 4 or 5.

I found it impossible to change the pre-load once the shock is on the bike.

There wasn't enough room to get the "C" spanner in there.

The shock with the above stock settings raises the rear end about 1/2" ...

My shock is a 2009 edition. I used the bolts and bushings from the Honda dog bone and plates which came with my eBay shock, no spacers needed except for the 2x2mm stainless washers on the top shock bolt position.

A fairly easy conversion to do, it took me about an hour the first time and half that when I had to remove it again to adjust the pre-load.

I want to dump the longer stock Honda bushings and go with the stock Triumph ones when I obtain some correct size spacers. The Honda bushings work fine except that they are too exposed to dirt and crud from the rear wheel.

Overall, a very worthy conversion and 100% better than the stock Triumph rear shock. No more kicking your arse out of the seat over high speed bumps now.:thumbup:

Handling is a little different because of the slightly raised rear end, so tip-in is easier and quicker. The best thing about this shock conversion is the damping! It's a huge improvement over the standard un-adjustable street triple and you can tune it in to suit your style of riding perfectly.

For a lousy $50 or thereabouts, you can't go wrong! :nod:

The *only* downsides are : You can't adjust the pre-load easily, and it makes the stock front end feel like crap.

S.

 

How did you change the preload with the shock out of the bike? I tried on mine, but the shaft just rotated in the shock body.

 

Place the bottom of the shock in a vice, use soft jaws in the vice, then turn the adjuster with a C spanner.

The top half will rotate with the C spanner as you turn the adjuster, but once you have the correct pre-load set...simply grab the top canister and turn the
shock until the top bolt hole lines up to the bottom....then you can re-fit it to the bike.

To make things a bit easier, give the adjuster a short squirt of chain lube first...

S.

 

can you post a few pics?

 

I found out today how to adjust the pre-load with the Honda shock *on* the bike....

I just needed to remove the footrests... :thumbup:

This gives me enough room to get the C spanner in and connected to the adjuster.

Tried positions 1 to five, settled on 3.

Everything is working just fine, the handling is much improved over the stock Triumph shock.

I rate this shock mod right up there with the 1050 throttle tube one.

Cheap, easy and effective.... :nod:


S.