[[FLUX]]

For those interested in obtaining a set of these plates, there's a currently open group buy for them here: *OPEN* GB #2: '06-'08 D675 Rear Suspension Correction and/or Ride Height Plates - Triumph675.Net Forums

 

[Triumph kid]

Been to the track with New Plates After a Few adjustments lap times wen,t down and the bike had good drive. Running Dunlop Slicks Race Tech Front and Ohlin,s Rear . This is way better than running the rear hard as to get the thing to turn. The rear went up 10mm when the plates were fitted i just run at that without lowering shock height so still a coupla thing to try yer so all good Cheers Flux

Installed mine today and ride height also went up, about 11mm. rider sag was at 31mm and is now at 20mm. Static sag is at about 3mm.
I double checked the plate orientation which is ok. I am running a Penske and no spacer above the upper shock mount. I will double check things tomorrow as I had a few interruptions and 2 different people taking measurements. Pushing on the seat and tank reveals a much more balanced feel between front and rear with the rear feeling considerably softer than before. Just a little confused as to why my results are not closer to Flux's. Out of curiosity I wonder how many of you are installing and playing versus taking measurements.

 

[[FLUX]]

TK, sag decreased by 11mm you say? Something very odd there. I had rider sag increase by 10mm with the stock shock, and 9mm with my aftermarket shock. Never, ever, had it decrease.

Grab a ruler and do a quick check and confirm that the swingarm to dogbone pivot distance (center to center of the bolts) is approx 79mm. That's the most important thing to get right. Also verify that the dogbone to shock pivot distance is 74mm.

 

[eden.kwok]

So finally got a chance to fit the standard plates and go for a ride.

Ride Height

After putting the plates on, i had a ride height decrease of 7mm, so i had to add half a turn of preload to bring it back to within 1mm. Dont know if this is normal or not, but the Ohlin TR602 on the back may have something to do with it

The Ride

Took the bike through some crazy bummy road around newcastle, the back is alot more compliant and i was more comfortable going faster. It was still bummy, and i could feel the rear working hard. Nothing like the stock plates however, with the massive sit lauching. I still did get tiny sit lauches going over massive bums, so i may have to play with the rebound settings a little to see how that feels. Any ideas??

Thanks [flux] for all the work you have put into these plates :thumbsup:

 

[[FLUX]]

Thanks E-K, althought they're called bumps, not bums, unless you're riding a different kind of "bike". :biggrinjester:

Yeah, they won't transform the rear suspension into dirt-bike-like bump handling, but they will make it more compliant and smooth out bumps to be less harsh than they were before, just as you found. Can still launch the rear over crazy bumps.

The 7mm ride-height decrease after installation is "normal" in the sense that it doesn't surprise me, especially with an aftermarket shock. There's simply too many variables to get it right for every user's scenario. If adding half a turn of preload to return it to normal is what was needed, then you did exactly the right thing.

If you're wanting to handle crazy bumps even better, then backing off high-speed compression damping a touch (if you have that dial on your shock) otherwise backing off rebound one click, and maybe even adding 1/4 turn of preload to keep it even further up in the softer linkage rate range may help there. It's a compromise though. Soften the rear up too far and the bike will start to pitch and push the front coming into corners. No matter how much you tweak, at the end of the day you have to accept that there simply will be bumps that cannot be dialled out without losing out in other areas of bike stability, and so you've just got to bite the bullet. If I can see big bumps coming, I just support my weight on the pegs and keep my weight off the seat,

Thanks for the feedback mate. Appreciate it.

 

[Nuff]

Eden, I've talked to Zeno and he told me that he fitted you with a spring suited to ride Easter Creek fast, which will translate in really bad ride on the road. If you have any issues he's cool with giving you free adjustments. I'm bit picky, so I go to him for free adjustments anyway :rofl: Your spring is way too rough for road riding. Now my sprink in my Elka shock is perfect for road riding, but not hard enough for track...

I think if you ride roads you should see zeno again and tell him to tweak your suspension.

So finally got a chance to fit the standard plates and go for a ride.

Ride Height

After putting the plates on, i had a ride height decrease of 7mm, so i had to add half a turn of preload to bring it back to within 1mm. Dont know if this is normal or not, but the Ohlin TR602 on the back may have something to do with it

The Ride

Took the bike through some crazy bummy road around newcastle, the back is alot more compliant and i was more comfortable going faster. It was still bummy, and i could feel the rear working hard. Nothing like the stock plates however, with the massive sit lauching. I still did get tiny sit lauches going over massive bums, so i may have to play with the rebound settings a little to see how that feels. Any ideas??

Thanks [flux] for all the work you have put into these plates :thumbsup:

 

[eden.kwok]

Eden, I've talked to Zeno and he told me that he fitted you with a spring suited to ride Easter Creek fast, which will translate in really bad ride on the road. If you have any issues he's cool with giving you free adjustments. I'm bit picky, so I go to him for free adjustments anyway :rofl: Your spring is way too rough for road riding. Now my sprink in my Elka shock is perfect for road riding, but not hard enough for track...

I think if you ride roads you should see zeno again and tell him to tweak your suspension.

thanks mate, i do a bit of both, track and road, and if i had to pick, i would want it to handle best at the track went going for it. As for the road i am happy to, like [flux] said, support myself when my legs over those really crazy bums and these plates go along way to helping the rear end to be more compliant. Nonetheless is nice to know that the help is there when i need it, so it would be great if you could past on my gratefulness when you see him next. Eden

 

[Nuff]

thanks mate, i do a bit of both, track and road, and if i had to pick, i would want it to handle best at the track went going for it. As for the road i am happy to, like [flux] said, support myself when my legs over those really crazy bums and these plates go along way to helping the rear end to be more compliant. Nonetheless is nice to know that the help is there when i need it, so it would be great if you could past on my gratefulness when you see him next. Eden

No worries, he usually hangs out at EC and once he gets talking he never stops :smilielol5: If you go to EC you can call him ahead of time. Sometimes he will come and other times he will not, depends if he's able to wake up or not :rofl:

 

[CATSNOX900]

Installed mine today and ride height also went up, about 11mm. rider sag was at 31mm and is now at 20mm. Static sag is at about 3mm.
I double checked the plate orientation which is ok. I am running a Penske and no spacer above the upper shock mount. I will double check things tomorrow as I had a few interruptions and 2 different people taking measurements. Pushing on the seat and tank reveals a much more balanced feel between front and rear with the rear feeling considerably softer than before. Just a little confused as to why my results are not closer to Flux's. Out of curiosity I wonder how many of you are installing and playing versus taking measurements.

I thought that it was a big no no to remove the spacer above the upper shock mount and the frame. At least thats what I remember hearing Dave Moss say, and when he talks I tend to listen. Maybe someone else can chime in.

 

[kauaiian]

Ok i have a question (sorry if i may have missed the answer while skimming through this thread) has anyone who have installed FLUX's plates still have the stock shock and spring and how does it feel? Seem's like everyone here has an aftermarket shock with the plates...i would love to have an aftermarket shock but that is way down the line so the stockie is gonna have to do for now...thanks

 

[mb66l79]

Ok i have a question (sorry if i may have missed the answer while skimming through this thread) has anyone who have installed FLUX's plates still have the stock shock and spring and how does it feel? Seem's like everyone here has an aftermarket shock with the plates...i would love to have an aftermarket shock but that is way down the line so the stockie is gonna have to do for now...thanks

I have the stock shock and spring with FLUX's plates and the difference is amazing. It rides so much more smooth and handles bumps way better, I actually feel like the rear rides better than the front now. I highly recommend the plates, especially since they're so affordable.

 

[kauaiian]

I have the stock shock and spring with FLUX's plates and the difference is amazing. It rides so much more smooth and handles bumps way better, I actually feel like the rear rides better than the front now. I highly recommend the plates, especially since they're so affordable.

Thanks mb...just what i wanted to hear :thumbsup:...already got my name on the 2nd GB...can't wait!

 

[kellito]

I put them (standard) on with my stock shock, definitely makes a big difference. Great product and price, just make sure they are installed properly.

 

[usedtriumph]

Plates

Made a set of plates at work and i could not believe the difference it made on the my ride this evening.....Its like riding a new bike all together...Thanks Fluxy :threecheers:

 

[EvilSteve]

Any news on whether the '09 gets the same benefits (sorry if I missed this)?

 

[eden.kwok]

Thanks E-K, althought they're called bumps, not bums, unless you're riding a different kind of "bike". :biggrinjester:

Yeah, they won't transform the rear suspension into dirt-bike-like bump handling, but they will make it more compliant and smooth out bumps to be less harsh than they were before, just as you found. Can still launch the rear over crazy bumps.

The 7mm ride-height decrease after installation is "normal" in the sense that it doesn't surprise me, especially with an aftermarket shock. There's simply too many variables to get it right for every user's scenario. If adding half a turn of preload to return it to normal is what was needed, then you did exactly the right thing.

If you're wanting to handle crazy bumps even better, then backing off high-speed compression damping a touch (if you have that dial on your shock) otherwise backing off rebound one click, and maybe even adding 1/4 turn of preload to keep it even further up in the softer linkage rate range may help there. It's a compromise though. Soften the rear up too far and the bike will start to pitch and push the front coming into corners. No matter how much you tweak, at the end of the day you have to accept that there simply will be bumps that cannot be dialled out without losing out in other areas of bike stability, and so you've just got to bite the bullet. If I can see big bumps coming, I just support my weight on the pegs and keep my weight off the seat,

Thanks for the feedback mate. Appreciate it.

thanks for the advice and the great work on these plates :thumbup:

 

[p0kerface]

Will putting a 20mm reduction plate on the bike mess with the bike in the same way that a lowering link would? I'd like to get the bike lower if it's not going to affect it, but I can live without it if it is. I assume it will, but don't know for sure.

i'm in the same boat. i read thru the whole thread and couldnt find the answer to this question either? there's a few 40mm links left in the GB, that's quite a difference in height so i'm wondering how it affects handling

 

[binman]

Flux, have just read this post and am very impressed with what you have done. I am setting my bike up to race this year and will start the season with the standard rear shock. I am hoping to upgrade to a performance aftermarket shock as and when I can afford it. However I would like to fit and try your plates. I work for an engineering company who could easily make these plates. If possible could you PM me the diagram with drawings and dimensions etc....(any format is fine). I only the need the drawings for the same height plates. This will purely be for me and nobody else as I can save myself money by using material from work and a machinist. Thanks Chris

 

[[FLUX]]

Hi binman,

There's an update to this. I took the new plates to the track on my bike. I push moderately quick myself (mid-pack, fast group), but am horribly out of practise as it was only my second time at the track in three years.

While the plates were perfect for road use, at the track their added rear-end top-out was causing issues for the front end when front trail-braking aggressively into corners. The rear end was coming up too much causing the front end to want to fold. Mind you, this was also exacerbated by the too-soft fork springs I had fitted (0.90kg currently fitted for road use instead of the 0.95kg that I need for track use for me).

Still rambling with this, I also have a 675 street-fighter conversion bike for road use. One of the things I did with that bike was to have 10mm of fork gold showing above the triples, and put one of my 20mm drop plates in the rear. ie. the bike sits lower than stock, and the weight is more rear biased. Bike balance on the 675 fighter is sublime, whereas on the 675 sporty it always feels top-heavy, in part due to the forks being set flush, so it sits about 10mm higher than stock.

Due to this, in my experience the practise that many do (myself included on my sporty) of having 0mm fork gold showing above the triples to gain more front-end stability is the wrong thing to do. Keeping the forks at 7-10mm gold showing, and dropping the rear (meaning rear axle-ducktail distance) down by 15-20mm works MUCH better for overall bike balance.

So, what I've done for track use is this: I've designed a set of race-plates that drop the rear down by 25mm when first installed, but you HAVE TO compensate for this by increasing the rear preload, and in doing so, we get back to a more desirable top-out range. The reason for this is that the plates add to the top-out range, which is undesirable for track use. By making them lower, and jacking up the preload, this does two things:

1) Brings the linkage rate back into the more linear portion of the range
2) Reduces the top-out to more standard/acceptable levels for track use

I reduced the linkage length in these new plates to compensate for 1) above, so the action is stiffer than what my first generation plates provide, but still more supple than the stock plates. Basically a for track-use middle-ground.

I have the first cut of these new plates in my hand as of yesterday and will be installing them and testing them out in two weeks. I need to wait that long as my sporty bike is waiting on some parts and is in pieces at the moment.

I'll update with how that goes. I don't really want to give out specs and dimensions before I've tested it, and I don't really recommend the old modified plates for track use unless you're using the 10mm or 20mm drop plates and jacking up the preload. I can provide you with the old 10/20mm drop plate specs if you like, and you're in a hurry, otherwise I will likely be making a batch of these track-plates by end-March/early-April.

 

[tasty danish]

Not to be an ass,

But what changed in the last week or so when you told me that I should get stock height plates for best cornering performance, and that you weren't making anymore so I was SOL.

^Looks like both statements were false.