Oil Pressure Light Illuminating At Idle
***UPDATED*** - Still problematic - See my post below
Hello All,
I have a problem with the oil pressure light (OPL) illuminating at idle on my dash. Sorry if this is a long post. I have tried to include as much info about the problem as possible. I have searched the forums as well and found a couple of threads exhibiting the exact same problem, but the posters haven't posted back with the fix.
The Bike:
2010 Daytona 675 (2011 Model) with 3050km on the clock.
The Problem:
The bike was started after a long time of sitting around. The OPL exhibited normal startup behaviour. That is, it comes on when the ignition is turned on and extinguishes after no more than 3 seconds after the engine is fired up. All was good, the bike had oil pressure. While the bike was idling and I finished doing some checks on it with TuneEdit and letting it run and heat up, the OPL started ever so slightly flickering on and off. The flickering became worse, until it became a solid light while it was idling. It took around 8 minutes of idling for this to occur. The oil level was checked before the engine was started too. No error codes were found by TuneEdit.
After seeing the light coming on, I decided to give the engine a small rev. After revving it the the OPL extinguishes. I let it go back to idle, the OPL comes on again. I rev the bike a few more times and find out the engine only requires an increase of 100-200rpm for the OPL to extinguish. The bike idles around 1300-1400rpm as told by TuneEdit.
The engine sound while idling and revving sound completely normal. There is no tapping, squealing or any out of the ordinary sounds that I can hear.
The Research:
I called Jack Lilley in the UK and got the number to a "top" Triumph technician who I then call up and speak to. I tell him about the problem as above. First thing he asks is have you washed the bike recently. I did in fact wash it the day before. He says it is most likely a little bit of water that has gotten under the rubber boot of the Oil Pressure Switch and is causing a problem for it. He assured me that if there was oil starvation that nasty mechanical noises would exhibit themselves very quickly. He was also quite certain it would be a problem with the Oil Pressure Switch and advised me that giving it a clean up would probably fix the problem and if that doesn't work to get it replaced.
The Testing and Attempted Fix:
Today, I pull the Oil Pressure switch connector out, extensively hit both the connector and switch with non-residual evaporative contact cleaner and let them both completely dry out. I did some testing on the connector as advised by the Haynes Repair manual I have. While the connector is out the OPL doesn't come on. I placed a piece of wire on the connector and ground it on the crankcase, the OPL comes on. So the connector to the dash checks out ok and is exhibiting normal behaviour. The contacts are all a nice clean gold colour with no discolouration or corrosion.
Before I connect them back together, I also apply some Permatex dielectric silicon grease to both orifices. I have also replaced the oil and put on a brand new filter. The filter is a genuine Triumph item. I am now prepared to start the bike up again to see if it has fixed the problem.
I turn the ignition on, and all the regular dash lights are illuminated including the OPL. I hit the ignition button and fire the engine up. The OPL extinguishes after no more than 2 seconds of idling. I look up to the sky and say thank you. However after the engine starts heating up and approximately around 5-8 mins of idling the OPL starts slowly flickering again and then maintains a solid light again. I rev the engine again and also find out that it only requires around 100-200rpm increase to extinguish the OPL on the dash. Once again everything sounds clean with no adverse engine noises heard.
I top the oil up again after it circulated though the filter to the top mark on the dipstick. I fire the bike up again and the OPL is still there at idle but extinguishes with revving. Same situation.
The Background:
From February this year the bike has been off the road while I have been modding it. It has received one ride in that whole period with no OPL problems.
During the time it was off the road I have done some mods to it.
Crankcase to SAI
TwoBros M5 Slip On
Shindengen FH012AA R/R
Removed EXUP Motor
Triumph LED Indicators w/ Relay
Latest TOR Tune
I have corrected the SAI and EXUP in the ECU with TuneEdit.
The Conclusion:
The OPL exhibits normal behaviour when the bike is cold and extinguishes after 2-3 seconds of starting, but comes on when the bike heats up.
Causes:
Faulty oil pressure switch
Oil pump failing
Bypass valve sticking
Crankcase to SAI mod causing problem
If anyone could shed some light on this problem, I would greatly appreciate it. I also want to test oil pressure, so will need to acquire a pressure tester, which is easy, but most importantly the adaptor needed to fit into the crank case. Does anyone know the size of the adaptor needed? I also have a new Oil Pressure Switch already on its way and will replace it when it gets here. If that doesn't work, I can only imagine it is something more sinister.
***UPDATED*** - Still problematic - See my post below
Hello All,
I have a problem with the oil pressure light (OPL) illuminating at idle on my dash. Sorry if this is a long post. I have tried to include as much info about the problem as possible. I have searched the forums as well and found a couple of threads exhibiting the exact same problem, but the posters haven't posted back with the fix.
The Bike:
2010 Daytona 675 (2011 Model) with 3050km on the clock.
The Problem:
The bike was started after a long time of sitting around. The OPL exhibited normal startup behaviour. That is, it comes on when the ignition is turned on and extinguishes after no more than 3 seconds after the engine is fired up. All was good, the bike had oil pressure. While the bike was idling and I finished doing some checks on it with TuneEdit and letting it run and heat up, the OPL started ever so slightly flickering on and off. The flickering became worse, until it became a solid light while it was idling. It took around 8 minutes of idling for this to occur. The oil level was checked before the engine was started too. No error codes were found by TuneEdit.
After seeing the light coming on, I decided to give the engine a small rev. After revving it the the OPL extinguishes. I let it go back to idle, the OPL comes on again. I rev the bike a few more times and find out the engine only requires an increase of 100-200rpm for the OPL to extinguish. The bike idles around 1300-1400rpm as told by TuneEdit.
The engine sound while idling and revving sound completely normal. There is no tapping, squealing or any out of the ordinary sounds that I can hear.
The Research:
I called Jack Lilley in the UK and got the number to a "top" Triumph technician who I then call up and speak to. I tell him about the problem as above. First thing he asks is have you washed the bike recently. I did in fact wash it the day before. He says it is most likely a little bit of water that has gotten under the rubber boot of the Oil Pressure Switch and is causing a problem for it. He assured me that if there was oil starvation that nasty mechanical noises would exhibit themselves very quickly. He was also quite certain it would be a problem with the Oil Pressure Switch and advised me that giving it a clean up would probably fix the problem and if that doesn't work to get it replaced.
The Testing and Attempted Fix:
Today, I pull the Oil Pressure switch connector out, extensively hit both the connector and switch with non-residual evaporative contact cleaner and let them both completely dry out. I did some testing on the connector as advised by the Haynes Repair manual I have. While the connector is out the OPL doesn't come on. I placed a piece of wire on the connector and ground it on the crankcase, the OPL comes on. So the connector to the dash checks out ok and is exhibiting normal behaviour. The contacts are all a nice clean gold colour with no discolouration or corrosion.
Before I connect them back together, I also apply some Permatex dielectric silicon grease to both orifices. I have also replaced the oil and put on a brand new filter. The filter is a genuine Triumph item. I am now prepared to start the bike up again to see if it has fixed the problem.
I turn the ignition on, and all the regular dash lights are illuminated including the OPL. I hit the ignition button and fire the engine up. The OPL extinguishes after no more than 2 seconds of idling. I look up to the sky and say thank you. However after the engine starts heating up and approximately around 5-8 mins of idling the OPL starts slowly flickering again and then maintains a solid light again. I rev the engine again and also find out that it only requires around 100-200rpm increase to extinguish the OPL on the dash. Once again everything sounds clean with no adverse engine noises heard.
I top the oil up again after it circulated though the filter to the top mark on the dipstick. I fire the bike up again and the OPL is still there at idle but extinguishes with revving. Same situation.
The Background:
From February this year the bike has been off the road while I have been modding it. It has received one ride in that whole period with no OPL problems.
During the time it was off the road I have done some mods to it.
Crankcase to SAI
TwoBros M5 Slip On
Shindengen FH012AA R/R
Removed EXUP Motor
Triumph LED Indicators w/ Relay
Latest TOR Tune
I have corrected the SAI and EXUP in the ECU with TuneEdit.
The Conclusion:
The OPL exhibits normal behaviour when the bike is cold and extinguishes after 2-3 seconds of starting, but comes on when the bike heats up.
Causes:
Faulty oil pressure switch
Oil pump failing
Bypass valve sticking
Crankcase to SAI mod causing problem
If anyone could shed some light on this problem, I would greatly appreciate it. I also want to test oil pressure, so will need to acquire a pressure tester, which is easy, but most importantly the adaptor needed to fit into the crank case. Does anyone know the size of the adaptor needed? I also have a new Oil Pressure Switch already on its way and will replace it when it gets here. If that doesn't work, I can only imagine it is something more sinister.
