Triumph 675 Forums banner
21 - 40 of 72 Posts
Jebus, if you want something better to haul random stuff when you need to, and commute etc, i would get a light pickup truck. i have a 2001 ford ranger 4x4 xlt. it has just shy of 200,000 miles on it, i pull a pressure washing unit thats trailer mounted pretty much everyday, i can fit my daytona in the bed of the truck, i haul plenty of other things with it as well, and its my daily driver.

I maintain the truck regularly, and i have had ZERO problems outside of regular maintenence on it. It runs perfect and looks great. I get my buddies telling me all the time they cant believe how well it runs for having as much mileage and useage as it does.

You can find a real nice one in the price range that you are looking at. :thumbup:

hope this helps.

and by the way, mines not for sale. :cool: im keepin her until the wheels fall off.
 
My opinion would be to sell your current ride.

I'd get a 1996-2002 toyota 4runner, (again). You can get a good one for about the price range that you mentioned.
These were great years for this truck. The ones before and after this generation are not as solid. My first ride was a 1996 toyota 4runner sr5. I beat the crap out of it and it never once let me down.

This truck is not bad looking. Gas is about 17mpg for the v6. The v6 has balls, enough to easily tow 2 jetskis.
You can fold the back seats down and make a large amount of flat usable space, (ie. makeshift motel).

And you can't go wrong with Toyota. I no longer have my truck but I know the person that drives it. 175K miles and still runs flawless.
 
Jeebz, sounds like it is best to sell what you got. If I read correctly it needs $1,000 in repairs or you could sell for $800? With it costing more in repairs than its worth plus the 16mpg I'd say sell it.
Get something used. Maybe check out something like a Ford Ranger although I'm not sure how much room is in the back area, since you want something with 4 doors.

Best of luck to you.
 
My opinion would be to sell your current ride.

I'd get a 1996-2002 toyota 4runner, (again). You can get a good one for about the price range that you mentioned.
These were great years for this truck. The ones before and after this generation are not as solid. My first ride was a 1996 toyota 4runner sr5. I beat the crap out of it and it never once let me down.

This truck is not bad looking. Gas is about 17mpg for the v6. The v6 has balls, enough to easily tow 2 jetskis.
You can fold the back seats down and make a large amount of flat usable space, (ie. makeshift motel).

And you can't go wrong with Toyota. I no longer have my truck but I know the person that drives it. 175K miles and still runs flawless.
+1 I have an '02 4runner. Not the absolute best thing but I'm happy with it.
 
Problem with the toyotas is they are way overpriced. Rangers typically get the best gas mileage of the small trucks (in 4cyl form), but they have some small fit and finish issues. I have a 4cyl S-10 that runs great. With a bed cover I get about 26mpg on the highway, a ranger can get 28 or 29. Get an extended cab and a stick shift though, otherwise it won't be very useful.
 
I'm going against the masses. The 929 only has 60K miles on it. It has plenty of life left in it. Get the repair/maintenance issues taken care of. The struts and rotors are fairly easy R&R with basic tools; just takes time. AutoZone loans out specialty tools (like the spring compressor you'll need). You'll need an alignment after the strut replacement. Leave the timing belt to a shop, so if they don't get it right-they pay for it. A good tune up with plugs, wires, filters, diagnostic scan, etc should allow the mileage to improve. Go to hitchfinder.com and get a hitch. Run it.

Buying something else in the $1K range is opening the door to the problems that that vehicle has. Obviously, there's no guarantee on it being square either.

Buying new is selling your life to payments. What that payment costs, each month, is money toward other stuff. Plus, your insurance will be higher. Assuming that kind of debt and trying to go to college is setting yourself up for failure. One little bump in the road and that's it.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Thanks for the advice guys. I never planned on buyer a new car, just new to me car. I'll look into all the cars you've listed. I like the toyota 4runner idea. I've always liked that car and it looks half decent. I'll check out the ranger too, but I think the interior space is too small. I have a trailer now, so I don't need a truck or a bed.
 
I have to agree with ducnut on this one. The last thing you want to have is another payment while in school. Just fix what you have and maintain it over the next few years. At least you know what this car needs, the next car you buy could need work too and you will still have to make the car payments on it while fixing it.

It sounds like you really need a tune up on the mazda. Some fluid changes are most likely in order as well. You could save a lot of money doing the work yourself since most of what you described is just remove and replace. Good luck with whatever you choose.
 
I'm going against the masses. The 929 only has 60K miles on it. It has plenty of life left in it. Get the repair/maintenance issues taken care of. The struts and rotors are fairly easy R&R with basic tools; just takes time. AutoZone loans out specialty tools (like the spring compressor you'll need). You'll need an alignment after the strut replacement. Leave the timing belt to a shop, so if they don't get it right-they pay for it. A good tune up with plugs, wires, filters, diagnostic scan, etc should allow the mileage to improve. Go to hitchfinder.com and get a hitch. Run it.

Buying something else in the $1K range is opening the door to the problems that that vehicle has. Obviously, there's no guarantee on it being square either.

Buying new is selling your life to payments. What that payment costs, each month, is money toward other stuff. Plus, your insurance will be higher. Assuming that kind of debt and trying to go to college is setting yourself up for failure. One little bump in the road and that's it.
I have to agree with ducnut on this one. The last thing you want to have is another payment while in school. Just fix what you have and maintain it over the next few years. At least you know what this car needs, the next car you buy could need work too and you will still have to make the car payments on it while fixing it.

It sounds like you really need a tune up on the mazda. Some fluid changes are most likely in order as well. You could save a lot of money doing the work yourself since most of what you described is just remove and replace. Good luck with whatever you choose.
Paul,

I agree with what these two have said. You're car has PLENTY of life left if you take care of it. My Mustang has close to 90K miles and runs strong. The only major problem I had with it was the fuel pump going out. I replaced it with a Bosch one I got from NAPA.

I would recommend you get a Haynes or Chiltons service manual for your car. Those manuals (especially the Haynes) tell you step by step how to fix your car using common tools. The Haynes manual focuses on the DIY weekend mechanic.

All those things you listed sound like easy things to repair.

Plus, when you go to SDSU will you be living down in SD or will you be commuting from Irvine to SD everyday?

Take it from me, at your current position YOU DO NOT WANT A CAR PAYMENT WHILE IN COLLEGE. I can't tell you how many people Ive repo'd that were college students. The worst part about it? You will still have to pay for the car afterwards (well the balance left after it sells...and trust me...repo'd cars don;t sell for much)...so then you're making payments (whether voluntary or garnished) and you don;t have a car. So don't put yourself in that position.

You know what the car needs since you have history with it. At 5-8K, there are good cars out there...but many bad cars too. Do you want to take that risk? Personally I wouldn't.

Added to the fact that you're going to SDSU...if you get a new car, you're chances of it getting stolen REALLY increase. Trust me, my dad was a Police Officer for San Diego State 15+ years until he retired and stolen cars were a big problem
 
I'm going against the masses. The 929 only has 60K miles on it. It has plenty of life left in it. Get the repair/maintenance issues taken care of. The struts and rotors are fairly easy R&R with basic tools; just takes time. AutoZone loans out specialty tools (like the spring compressor you'll need). You'll need an alignment after the strut replacement. Leave the timing belt to a shop, so if they don't get it right-they pay for it. A good tune up with plugs, wires, filters, diagnostic scan, etc should allow the mileage to improve. Go to hitchfinder.com and get a hitch. Run it.

Buying something else in the $1K range is opening the door to the problems that that vehicle has. Obviously, there's no guarantee on it being square either.

Buying new is selling your life to payments. What that payment costs, each month, is money toward other stuff. Plus, your insurance will be higher. Assuming that kind of debt and trying to go to college is setting yourself up for failure. One little bump in the road and that's it.
+1

It sounds like your pretty well in debt as it is, save the money, pay off some of that debt, and enjoy your new race bike.

Also..Tooble is absolutely right about the Haynes manual. I've got one for my '98 Subaru, and it allows me to do everything on the car. I haven't had that car in the shop since I bought it.
 
Naw, we will continue to play Starcraft, and make 300k a year doing it.
He failed to mention that is 300k Yen, or about $27.50 US.

I agree with the fix it yourself side. It is almost always cheaper in the long run to fix what you already have.

I am concerned about your comment about the idle issue because of an old timing belt.
Timing belts shouldn't stretch enough to cause a notable change in timing, they typically just break, sheer off teeth, etc. Of course that is a whole new can-o-worms.
With your crappy idle and poor mileage, I would think that you either have a bad vacuum leak or possibly something like a ruptured diaphragm in your fuel pressure regulator (fairly common on mid-90's GMs).

Rock auto shows standard front rotors, cheap too. I think someone is feeding you a line.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...og/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1190225&parttype=1896&a=FRc1190225k146088-1061861
 
He failed to mention that is 300k Yen, or about $27.50 US.

I agree with the fix it yourself side. It is almost always cheaper in the long run to fix what you already have.

I am concerned about your comment about the idle issue because of an old timing belt.
Timing belts shouldn't stretch enough to cause a notable change in timing, they typically just break, sheer off teeth, etc. Of course that is a whole new can-o-worms.
With your crappy idle and poor mileage, I would think that you either have a bad vacuum leak or possibly something like a ruptured diaphragm in your fuel pressure regulator (fairly common on mid-90's GMs).

Rock auto shows standard front rotors, cheap too. I think someone is feeding you a line.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raf...og/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1190225&parttype=1896&a=FRc1190225k146088-1061861
Fail.

Yen is Chinese Son.

This is the wiki of a well known player.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lee_Yun-Yeol In 2007, NaDa signed a new 3 year contract with WeMade FOX for approximately $690,000 USD.[2]

Each tournament they win is 30K-50K USD. There are 3 major ones a year.

Owned.
 
21 - 40 of 72 Posts