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I'm just about to fit the manual idle adjuster to my track bike and am wondering if it's ok to remove the entire ISM and uncheck the ISC in TuneECU?...or do I still need it plugged in? I thought I read a more up to date thread on this somewhere but I can't seem to find.
 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
If you're gunna uncheck it in tune ECU, why remove it???
 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
see what happens when you just disable it. If you have problems, then remove it.
 
Yes once you disable it in tune ecu you can unbolt the entire thing gets rid of a pound of weight or and it makes it easier to get to wiring and the starter if you need to I would get rid of it you have to take off the tbs anyway
 
So TuneECU will infact disable the ISM, and you can then unplug it and NO CEL will come on right?

I'm done pissing around with the idle and just ordered the manual adjuster... lol

Thanks,
-Nigel
Correct:thumbup:
 
Good to know then!

FINALLY got the part shipped.. came from triumph which took over 3-4 weeks.

Once I get it I will isntall it and hope the stupid ass idle problem disappears.

Probably ask a couple more questions once the time comes shortly..lol

-Nigel
 
Anyone know which of these is the same as the race kit one offered by Augusta Triumph? My guess is that it's the first one, but i can't find a description on BikeBandit.....

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http://www.bikebandit.com/search?dsNav=Ntk:All|1796464|3|

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http://www.bikebandit.com/search?dsNav=Ntk:All|1388386|3|
The first one is around the price that I paid off a triumph website...

http://www.store.commoto.com/triump...umphstoredaytona675engineparts-triumphdaytona675racekitmanualidlekit-p-856.html

Personally I'd order it from the link I posted.. Know exactly what you are getting.

-Nigel
 
Dusting off an old thread, Ive fitted the manual idle adjuster to both old race bikes, 06 and 08. Didnt discon the ISM at all. I found that with the bike in neutral, or the clutch it, it idled as per factory spec, but in gear, clutch out, it idled at what i set it to manually. So after fitting the kit, warmed the bike up, kicked it into gear and set the idle to 2000rpm for the track, when I pull the clutch in it drops back to the factory 1300 or so. Has been the same both times, Hopes it the same on the 2010 in about to track. They still start nice in neutral, as its using the stepper motor for high idle and cuts back as it warms up, doesnt try and rip the tyrw warmers off when you start it as its not spinning at 2k+, but find a gear, pop the clutch and its up where you set it manually, best of both worlds. Anyone else found this?
 
Anyone know how I can fit/make a race style manual idle adjustment knob/screw?

I find that in slow turns I tend to shut the throttle fully and get bogged down in the corner. I lose that smooth transition from braking to accelleration in the process. This is really evident in the back section at Winton in the three corners near and around the 'tree'. It would probably rear it's head at Broady too.

If i were able to adjust the idle up by 1,000+ rpm then it would let the engine run a little bit helping to keep up my mid corner speed.

I just need a knob I can turn that pokes out of the fairing in an easily accessed position.

This is pretty common with race bikes and mine is basically track only now.

Cheers
Wazza
a manual idle adjuster from a honda cbrf4i will do it. or you can buy from a triumph parts dealer for $30
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
Been and done this a looong time ago...
Sold the bike going on 12 months ago as well!!

I just turned the idle up and down as required - up a bit for choke then down for warm idle, then up again 3k for the track, then back to 1.5k for the pits. No real issues...
 
Old thread, and I am now just getting to installing this..lol Do we know which version of TuneECU will actually disable it. I think I'm running an old version...

Any problems with fully taking this off or would I have to keep adjusting like the poster above me and constantly make adjustments?

Thanks
-Nigel
 
Huge Help and Successful

Many thanks to bluedaytona02

I installed the manual idle control tonight with a huge success. I would have spent many hours pondering and snaking tools to the screw on the underside of the throttle bodies, because I am too suborn to remove them, if it were not for bluedaytona02.

I was getting an error code for the speed sensor or something and I assumed it was because of that solenoid. So I finally decided to install the part I had laying around for months. The manual idle adjuster. I was having idle issues as well. My idle would bounce around, most of the time. I never bothered setting it in TuneECU even though I should have. I was successfully able to disable the Idle speed control solenoid in Tune ECU(v2.5.3), and remove the actual solenoid itself.

I have not ridden the bike after installing the adjuster but i was able to start, rev, adjust, clear codes, keep codes off, and run diagnostics using TuneECU. I now have all three devices disable, removed and ran/tested. By all three devices I mean SAI, o2 sensor, exhaust valve and idle speed sensor.

Huge shout out to bluedaytona02. The race manual is no help and this was a huge help in my efforts.
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
Great thread revival... and I'm glad the extra info helped!!

This forum is ever so useful with tips and tricks like that. I'm not the prolific poster that I used to be, but I still trawl through here for the 'know how' to solve my issues.

If only I could ride the damn thing more often!!
 
I have a first gen D675 with a race ecu and harness. There is no plug for the ISM. I'm getting my bike dyno tuned soon and was wondering if I should have the manual idle adjuster installed first or that doesn't affect mapping.

Also since the race ecu doesn't have a plug or recognize the ism can I just leave it in place, I rather not mess with it or that actuator arm thingy. I'm assuming it won't affect anything since its not plugged in correct?

Also, for anyone looking to buy a manual idle adjuster, the new updated part number is: A1241041
 
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