Triumph 675 Forums banner
41 - 60 of 97 Posts
That's why I only removed the nut off the motor shaft and zip tied away the activation lever, so it doesn't do anything. Best way to go until Tuneboy comes up with a fix.

Removing the motor will only save 100g if that....
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
got a photo or a diagram...

bit dumb here!!!

Will the stepper motor over-ride the manual adjuster?
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
removed the air box again to check out the stepper motor...
I see the nut you removed - painted yellow like the idle adjuster underneath.
By removing this nut (& washer & spring), the motor would be unable to pull the piston in, thus opening the butterflies slightly... this is how it works, right?

How did you zip ties this?
Did you just slide the piston out of it's bracket?

Without anything to hold the piston (ie no nut), there is really no need to remove/move it is there?
 
Update

OK I just removed the little arm I was gonna just undo the nut an zip tie it but If you remove 3 bolts you can take the damn thing off here are pics

take off ISM nut
Image


remove these 2 bolts and your fuel rail

Image


remove the bolt holding the adjuster arm

Image


when taking off TB #3 DO NOT Lose this spring I dropped it and looked around for 30 minutes for it FUCK! :biggrinjester:

Image


the spring goes in the gap here

Image


once you have #3 TB off you can just slide the arm out and here is all the pieces taken out

Image


Here it is all cleaned up and finished

Image


I'm happy to say this did fix my rev then stutter/stall problem and no there isn't any CEL...... I have idle set to 1400 manually verify it in Tuneboy or TuneECU... I think my ISM was going out its nowhere near as loud as it used to be

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
so i've gotta take the boody throttle bodies off again...?

at least I bout some better tools other than a short allen key and a pair of pliers:laugh::whistle:

I assume the servo motor still operates but there is no arm for the piston to move now. Can the SM just be unplugged or does that throw a code??
 
so i've gotta take the boody throttle bodies off again...?

at least I bout some better tools other than a short allen key and a pair of pliers:laugh::whistle:

I assume the servo motor still operates but there is no arm for the piston to move now. Can the SM just be unplugged or does that throw a code??
it will throw a code if you just unplug it...... hope tuneboy /TuneECU makes a disable box for this
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Thanks for the photos qweesy.
Finally got around to some 'man' time in the shed. Job now done.

Now I need to get some fresh fuel and actually start the thing to set the idle level!!!
 
Thanks for the photos qweesy.
Finally got around to some 'man' time in the shed. Job now done.

Now I need to get some fresh fuel and actually start the thing to set the idle level!!!
Ordered mine on Friday so I should see it soon.
Thanks everyone :thumbup:
No problem y'all, IF you have TuneECU or Tuneboy you can watch the idle as you turn it, I got mine pretty close to 1400 I think the closest I got it to was 1411.......... stock is 1350

http://www.tomhamburg.net/TuneECU_En/index.html
 
Discussion starter · #55 · (Edited)
TIME TO TROUBLE SHOOT...

I did have it done, so I thought.
The bike has been sitting idle since the first of may (with the battery on a charger). Shouldn't be a problem... I did the idle adjuster, 520 conversion, new tyres and lock-wired everything since then but haven't started it.
Went to start it today. Knowing the idle adjudster hadn't been set, I expected things to be a little difficult but not like it was. I finally got a base idle set but the things runs like it's dropped a cylinder. The water light on the dash (RHS warning light) came on as well.
I checked that everything was connected as it should be and all seemed normal. The fuel was fresh premium, same as normal.

I've stripped it all back down again.

The little spring Queezy lost was not re-fitted, but I doubt it would make it run like a twin... it may however not idle cleanly...

I think I'll put the stepper motor arm back in and then get Juz to help me set the idle with TuneECU - that is possible, right?? This will negate the need for the manual adjuster as well probably.

Thoughts please????
 
you lost that little spring? It has to be in there because cyl 1 and 2 will open WOT and cyl 3 will only open about 85% at WOT without that spring and at idle cycl 3 TB will be closed thats why its running like that go to the dealer get that little spring..... If Triumph doesn't offer that little spring by itself take the one off in between cyl 1 and 2 go up the the hardware store and see if you can find a match if not then I would suggest ebay for a set of TB's


take off the tank again and look at the throttles when you turn the grip you will see what Im talking about.:thumbup:
 
Qweesy. You are good. I was looking at your pictures and reading your notes when I fitted my manual idle adjuster and I could not have done it with out you. Cheers.
But I did'nt even see that little spring until it dropped. I put it back where it belongs an all is good.

Thanks Smiley
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
done the spring fix and it solved the problem OR I had a lose connection or maybe both.

Still got the CEL. Did the 3 heat cycles but it's still there....
 
Qweesy. You are good. I was looking at your pictures and reading your notes when I fitted my manual idle adjuster and I could not have done it with out you. Cheers.
But I did'nt even see that little spring until it dropped. I put it back where it belongs an all is good.

Thanks Smiley
:thumbup::thumbup: no prob man

done the spring fix and it solved the problem OR I had a lose connection or maybe both.

Still got the CEL. Did the 3 heat cycles but it's still there....
cool clear CEL with TuneECU, what have you set the idle to?
 
41 - 60 of 97 Posts