idle was at about 1k while I tried the 3 heat cycles but I'll turn it up to 2k for the track and see if thats enough. I found I was closing the throttle mid corner in the slow stuff and getting bogged down - this is a mechanical way to make me ride better!!! The good thing with the adjuster is you can turn it up or down as your heart desires!!!

Will see if Juz can help with TuneECU as he has the cable and a laptop (just no spare time!!!)

Also think it's time to do the manual cam chain tensioner as there is a real tick there now. MGFChapin sent one over for me but I was just waiting till I needed to install it.... guess that time is now.

 

Downloading tune ecu this weekend. Need to take the exup off my new 675 and want to put stock tune back on the blue 675 as I have taken the TOR pipe off.

 

cool man yeah 1k is a little low stock is 1350, I have mine at 1411 verified with tuneboy it idles smoother at 1400.

 

Just hooked up Juz's tuneboy cable...

faults:
P0505 Idle speed control circuit malfunction
P1628 Fuel pump short to ground or open circuit

I 'clear faults' with tuneboy but P0505 returns. I'll need to start the bike and run it to see if I can clear it but I'll have to wait till Jr is awake - arvo nap time!!!

Maybe I've left off the plug to the stepper motor???

Any more thoughts??

BTW, she runs like normal again. I must have left an EFI plug off or something.

 

yes sounds like you may have left the Idle stepper Motor un-plugged. make sure the ISM bolt can move freely up and down when you turn the bike on.

 

The knob who did the work on the bike (ME) didn't plug the ISM back in...

Fault cleared and problem solved.

Wazza

 

The knob who did the work on the bike (ME) didn't plug the ISM back in...

:rofl: you couldn't make up better shit.

 

:thumbup: glad to hear you got it fixed up

 

I am confused at a couple things.

I don't want to clutter shit up with noob questions but what exactly am I looking at with the stepper motor? I don't see what is being taken off and then the piston taken out?

With the manual idle adjuster what is to not move or adjust it while you are riding.. IE: Bumbs, or stuff like that, is it almost like a choke where you manually adjust it each time, or you adjust it, verify via TuneECU/Tuneboy and then forget it?

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Look at post #47, on page 5, by Qweezy.

In the 2nd photo - side on shot of throttle bodies - the ISM is on the LHS, next to his little finger.

In the last photo, the ISM piston is at the very bottom of the photo, with a rubber boot behind it.

If you look at the throttle bodies from the back of the bike towards the front, the ISM is the box between the centre and right throttle openings. You will see a piston that actuates the butterfly arm, not by much mind you, but enought to slightly open then to act like a choke.

There is nothing to stop the manual idle adjuster being adjusted on the fly, however, it is fairly stiff and is unlikely to be knocked out of position. I've had a quick look at the RPM on the gauge Vs the digital readout on tuneboy, and they're pretty close. I intend to run it about 800-1000 on warm-up, then turn it up to about 2500 whilst on the track so I don't get bogged down in slow corners by shutting the throttle. An old racer's trick I was told about...

 

Let me ask this. Thank you for explaining the above.

If I set the idle to 1400... will it ALWAYS run at 1400?

I looked at tuneECU and when the bike starts it idles at 1500 rpms, then it goes to 1420, and in the next couple brackets it goes to 1350, then 1200 or so....

Will the bike idle less once it's warmed up like normal or no matter what with the manual adjust it will idle at whatever I set it to?

Sorry for the silly question.

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

Let me ask this. Thank you for explaining the above.

If I set the idle to 1400... will it ALWAYS run at 1400?

I looked at tuneECU and when the bike starts it idles at 1500 rpms, then it goes to 1420, and in the next couple brackets it goes to 1350, then 1200 or so....

Will the bike idle less once it's warmed up like normal or no matter what with the manual adjust it will idle at whatever I set it to?

Sorry for the silly question.

Thanks,
-Nigel

No it will stay where you put it the reason it goes to 1530 to 1400 to 1350 is because that's the ISM working like an auto choke........ if you put the manual idle at 1400 it will stay there all the time I think the bike idles better there anyway than 1350....... you can change it on the fly.

but different settings depend on what your doing....... track or stunt you'll put it higher as blue-daytona said.... if your on the road put it as close to 1400 as you can the closest I got was 1411 in tuneboy or 1350 if you want to keep it stock.....

 

just ran a day at Winton. Mucked around with it a bit. First started it at about 1500 then warmed the bike up after scruitineering. Then as I punted over to the dummy grid I ran it at about 2k. Once they released me, I turned it up to 3.5k. Then on the way back in the pits, turned it down to 2k again.

Awesome cheap mod for the track. With all the things I've done over winter here, I dropped 5 seconds off my best time set in May. I was stoked. The idle adjuster allowed me to close the throttle, but not get bogged down at the idle point of 1500rm, instad, it held at 3.5k with the M.I.A. so I still carried a good amount of throttle in the low speed turns.

 

5 secs!!!! Struth Waz, you should inform Mr Stoner, that's the edge they've been looking for....

:biggrinjester::biggrinjester::biggrinjester:

 

why did you guys decide to remove the ism rod? i thought all this thing does is choke it while it's cold? once your hot it should not interfere with your manual idle adjustment setting as it would retract and the idle screw would be up and beyond the reach of where the rod would go (ie. stop it from falling further back in revs)?

 

The ECU will overide the idle adjuster and correct it with the ISM. You can adjust your idle values in tuneECU if you wanted however you can't do it on the fly like you can with the manual unit.

 

bump , for others lots of idle issues lately.

 

Not sure if this has been posted but what is to STOP the adjuster from backing out... IE from vibrations or things like that??

I am going to do this now since my idle is fucked up again, it's annoying because if i hold the throttle open by 2mm it idles fine as soon as it's warm it's fine, just when the bike is cold and i start it it wants to die...

-Nigel

 

Not sure if this has been posted but what is to STOP the adjuster from backing out... IE from vibrations or things like that??

I am going to do this now since my idle is fucked up again, it's annoying because if i hold the throttle open by 2mm it idles fine as soon as it's warm it's fine, just when the bike is cold and i start it it wants to die...

-Nigel

spring tension i believe. ive had mine on for 4xxx miles with no issues.

Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app

 

yep spring tension:thumbup:

 

I'm just about to fit the manual idle adjuster to my track bike and am wondering if it's ok to remove the entire ISM and uncheck the ISC in TuneECU?...or do I still need it plugged in? I thought I read a more up to date thread on this somewhere but I can't seem to find.

 

If you're gunna uncheck it in tune ECU, why remove it???

 

Fair point. Do I still need to remove the ISM rod?
The throttle bodies are proving a challenge to remove as none of the clamps are very accessible.

 

see what happens when you just disable it. If you have problems, then remove it.

 

Yes once you disable it in tune ecu you can unbolt the entire thing gets rid of a pound of weight or and it makes it easier to get to wiring and the starter if you need to I would get rid of it you have to take off the tbs anyway

 

So TuneECU will infact disable the ISM, and you can then unplug it and NO CEL will come on right?

I'm done pissing around with the idle and just ordered the manual adjuster... lol

Thanks,
-Nigel

 

So TuneECU will infact disable the ISM, and you can then unplug it and NO CEL will come on right?

I'm done pissing around with the idle and just ordered the manual adjuster... lol

Thanks,
-Nigel

Correct:thumbup:

 

Good to know then!

FINALLY got the part shipped.. came from triumph which took over 3-4 weeks.

Once I get it I will isntall it and hope the stupid ass idle problem disappears.

Probably ask a couple more questions once the time comes shortly..lol

-Nigel

 

Anyone know which of these is the same as the race kit one offered by Augusta Triumph? My guess is that it's the first one, but i can't find a description on BikeBandit.....

http://www.bikebandit.com/search?dsNav=Ntk:All|1796464|3|

http://www.bikebandit.com/search?dsNav=Ntk:All|1388386|3|

 

Anyone know which of these is the same as the race kit one offered by Augusta Triumph? My guess is that it's the first one, but i can't find a description on BikeBandit.....

http://www.bikebandit.com/search?dsNav=Ntk:All|1796464|3|

http://www.bikebandit.com/search?dsNav=Ntk:All|1388386|3|

The first one is around the price that I paid off a triumph website...

http://www.store.commoto.com/triump...umphstoredaytona675engineparts-triumphdaytona675racekitmanualidlekit-p-856.html

Personally I'd order it from the link I posted.. Know exactly what you are getting.

-Nigel

 

Dusting off an old thread, Ive fitted the manual idle adjuster to both old race bikes, 06 and 08. Didnt discon the ISM at all. I found that with the bike in neutral, or the clutch it, it idled as per factory spec, but in gear, clutch out, it idled at what i set it to manually. So after fitting the kit, warmed the bike up, kicked it into gear and set the idle to 2000rpm for the track, when I pull the clutch in it drops back to the factory 1300 or so. Has been the same both times, Hopes it the same on the 2010 in about to track. They still start nice in neutral, as its using the stepper motor for high idle and cuts back as it warms up, doesnt try and rip the tyrw warmers off when you start it as its not spinning at 2k+, but find a gear, pop the clutch and its up where you set it manually, best of both worlds. Anyone else found this?

 

Anyone know how I can fit/make a race style manual idle adjustment knob/screw?

I find that in slow turns I tend to shut the throttle fully and get bogged down in the corner. I lose that smooth transition from braking to accelleration in the process. This is really evident in the back section at Winton in the three corners near and around the 'tree'. It would probably rear it's head at Broady too.

If i were able to adjust the idle up by 1,000+ rpm then it would let the engine run a little bit helping to keep up my mid corner speed.

I just need a knob I can turn that pokes out of the fairing in an easily accessed position.

This is pretty common with race bikes and mine is basically track only now.

Cheers
Wazza

a manual idle adjuster from a honda cbrf4i will do it. or you can buy from a triumph parts dealer for $30

 

Been and done this a looong time ago...
Sold the bike going on 12 months ago as well!!

I just turned the idle up and down as required - up a bit for choke then down for warm idle, then up again 3k for the track, then back to 1.5k for the pits. No real issues...