All is OK now John.

Glad yours is on the way to being sorted too.

Haven't decided on the CCT yet as I've not got any excess noise... yet.

 

Just thought Id post pics of the install pretty straight forward. pics are a little blurry had to use phone, my digi cam died.

1.)flip over TB's take out stock idle screw and nut.

2.) put manual adjuster in about 4-5 threads showing out on the other side.

3.) route manual idle between the temp sensor and the little coolant hose out to the right side of engine.

Hope this helps others :thumbup::thumbup:

 

Nice how to qweesy!

John and Waz, the how to for manual tensioners here isn't comprehensive. I know 2 guys now that have blown up their engines following it, one going too loose and the other too tight. Rather than screwing in until you feel contact then backing out 1/4 turn, you need to remove the cam cover. If there's no cam chain rattle, leave the old tensioner in and measure the slack in the cam chain between the 2 camshaft sprockets. Should be like 20-30mm, but rotate the engine to measure a few different spots. Remove old tensioner, install new one, tighten until the slack is the same. Rotate the engine and check multiple spots. Much more reliable than the how to's or APE's method.

 

thx MGF

think I'll leave the old one in till I need to change it after hearing that. All is fine atm.

 

Hmmm, already done mine and I must admit that it does sound smoother - I'll just have to keep an eye on it and hopefully she won't blow up......

 

Just wondering if you need anything else to make the manual idle adjuster work or just bolt it on. eg, tuneboy.
I tryed to up the revs on a TT 600 at the throtle bodies and it only worked for a minute and the computer must have said, slow down, which it did.

Thanks Smiley

 

I actually disconnected the Idle Stepper motor, no need for it in mu opinion with the manual adjuster fitted.

 

no error code?

where's the plug 4 that?
did u get a fault code?
any problems after?

I would like to remove the stepper motor but I though you couldn't unless you had the race ECU..... or until tuneboy / tune ECU make it so we can disable it

 

where's the plug 4 that?
did u get a fault code?
any problems after?

 

That's why I only removed the nut off the motor shaft and zip tied away the activation lever, so it doesn't do anything. Best way to go until Tuneboy comes up with a fix.

Removing the motor will only save 100g if that....

 

got a photo or a diagram...

bit dumb here!!!

Will the stepper motor over-ride the manual adjuster?

 

Bugga, no photo and it's all back together.

I thought the stepper and manual idle adjust would fight each other so I removed the nut on the end of the stepper motor shaft.

No probs with hunting idling now.

 

removed the air box again to check out the stepper motor...
I see the nut you removed - painted yellow like the idle adjuster underneath.
By removing this nut (& washer & spring), the motor would be unable to pull the piston in, thus opening the butterflies slightly... this is how it works, right?

How did you zip ties this?
Did you just slide the piston out of it's bracket?

Without anything to hold the piston (ie no nut), there is really no need to remove/move it is there?

 

From memory I rotated the bracket on it's axis and tied it down there, slid it out of the bracket.

But it sounds like your on the right track.

 

Please keep us informed. If it is as easy to install I want one.

Thanks Smiley.

 

Update

OK I just removed the little arm I was gonna just undo the nut an zip tie it but If you remove 3 bolts you can take the damn thing off here are pics

take off ISM nut

remove these 2 bolts and your fuel rail

remove the bolt holding the adjuster arm

when taking off TB #3 DO NOT Lose this spring I dropped it and looked around for 30 minutes for it FUCK! :biggrinjester:

the spring goes in the gap here

once you have #3 TB off you can just slide the arm out and here is all the pieces taken out

Here it is all cleaned up and finished

I'm happy to say this did fix my rev then stutter/stall problem and no there isn't any CEL...... I have idle set to 1400 manually verify it in Tuneboy or TuneECU... I think my ISM was going out its nowhere near as loud as it used to be

:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

 

Good pics, that's basically what I did and yep, come to think of it, I can't hear the ISM at all. Doing this solved a lot of idling issues for me.

John.

 

so i've gotta take the boody throttle bodies off again...?

at least I bout some better tools other than a short allen key and a pair of pliers:laugh:

I assume the servo motor still operates but there is no arm for the piston to move now. Can the SM just be unplugged or does that throw a code??

 

it will throw a code if you just unplug it...... hope tuneboy /TuneECU makes a disable box for this

 

Don't unplug the ISM, unless you want the CEL on all the time.

 

Thanks for the photos qweesy.
Finally got around to some 'man' time in the shed. Job now done.

Now I need to get some fresh fuel and actually start the thing to set the idle level!!!

 

Ordered mine on Friday so I should see it soon.
Thanks everyone :thumbup:

No problem y'all, IF you have TuneECU or Tuneboy you can watch the idle as you turn it, I got mine pretty close to 1400 I think the closest I got it to was 1411.......... stock is 1350

http://www.tomhamburg.net/TuneECU_En/index.html

 

Ordered mine on Friday so I should see it soon.
Thanks everyone :thumbup:

 

TIME TO TROUBLE SHOOT...

I did have it done, so I thought.
The bike has been sitting idle since the first of may (with the battery on a charger). Shouldn't be a problem... I did the idle adjuster, 520 conversion, new tyres and lock-wired everything since then but haven't started it.
Went to start it today. Knowing the idle adjudster hadn't been set, I expected things to be a little difficult but not like it was. I finally got a base idle set but the things runs like it's dropped a cylinder. The water light on the dash (RHS warning light) came on as well.
I checked that everything was connected as it should be and all seemed normal. The fuel was fresh premium, same as normal.

I've stripped it all back down again.

The little spring Queezy lost was not re-fitted, but I doubt it would make it run like a twin... it may however not idle cleanly...

I think I'll put the stepper motor arm back in and then get Juz to help me set the idle with TuneECU - that is possible, right?? This will negate the need for the manual adjuster as well probably.

Thoughts please????

 

you lost that little spring? It has to be in there because cyl 1 and 2 will open WOT and cyl 3 will only open about 85% at WOT without that spring and at idle cycl 3 TB will be closed thats why its running like that go to the dealer get that little spring..... If Triumph doesn't offer that little spring by itself take the one off in between cyl 1 and 2 go up the the hardware store and see if you can find a match if not then I would suggest ebay for a set of TB's


take off the tank again and look at the throttles when you turn the grip you will see what Im talking about.:thumbup:

 

delete double post

 

Qweesy. You are good. I was looking at your pictures and reading your notes when I fitted my manual idle adjuster and I could not have done it with out you. Cheers.
But I did'nt even see that little spring until it dropped. I put it back where it belongs an all is good.

Thanks Smiley

 

Qweesy. You are good. I was looking at your pictures and reading your notes when I fitted my manual idle adjuster and I could not have done it with out you. Cheers.
But I did'nt even see that little spring until it dropped. I put it back where it belongs an all is good.

Thanks Smiley

:thumbup::thumbup: no prob man

done the spring fix and it solved the problem OR I had a lose connection or maybe both.

Still got the CEL. Did the 3 heat cycles but it's still there....

cool clear CEL with TuneECU, what have you set the idle to?

 

done the spring fix and it solved the problem OR I had a lose connection or maybe both.

Still got the CEL. Did the 3 heat cycles but it's still there....