[HQ0675]

Beer hijack...
Yanks, send Sam Adams quick (it's $25 for a six pack here!).
We can exchange Gage Road or Mountain Goat and a few (interesting) others to catch up.
(I've never been able to figure the obsession with manual cam chain tensioners personally.)

 

[MGFChapin]

Beer hijack...
Yanks, send Sam Adams quick (it's $25 for a six pack here!).
We can exchange Gage Road or Mountain Goat and a few (interesting) others to catch up.
(I've never been able to figure the obsession with manual cam chain tensioners personally.)

I'd be happy to but it's illegal to ship alcohol unless you have a license. I don't have a license.

 

[Aviator]

LOVE the VB.

My favorite in Highschool...my friends did think I was a bit nuts though

 

[qweesy]

Got the idle kit to day it is pretty beefy, I'll install it in the next week or so and will let you know if this cures the idle problem

install procedure is here http://www.triumph.co.uk/images/ecards/A9900432_Daytona_675_Race_Manual_2009.pdf

 

[bluedaytona02]

Got mine too with thanks to MGFChapin.

Got the airbox assembly off and I'm now looking at the throttle boddies... I can see the screws for the brass coloured clamps on the centre and right cylinder (as you'd sit on the bike), but access to the left one is rather obscured.

According to the race manual, these need to be removed FIRST to fit the idle adjuster.

I've looked over the manual and there doesn't seem to be any hints either.

Any ideas... ANYONE????

Wazza

 

[Pict88]

Got a picture?

I'm interested to see what you are looking at.

 

[bluedaytona02]

http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=26759&highlight=remove+throttle+bodies

3rd photo down.

I did a search and this guy makes some suggestions but he is taking everything off to get the motor out. I'd like to leave as much as possible attached!!

The manual says nothing really helpful either. I should have released the fuel in the rail but didn't bother....

 

[MGFChapin]

You mean the clamps with the very small allen bolts? Did you remove the coolant overflow bottle? I'll take a look when I get to work today but I recall the left one being easiest to get to, just needed a long allen wrench to go through the frame. Is your bolt head facing to the left of the bike?

 

[bluedaytona02]

Correct with all you assertions MGF.

Haven't removed the coolant bottle yet but that sounds like the next step.
I'll probably use an allen bit on the end of a 1/4" socket set extension and hope that it's long enough!!

The interesting bit will be re-assembly!!
At least I've got a 1/4" torque wrench now for all those little bolts, especially the intake trumpets.

Wonder if I can route the idle screw to sit outside the frame... or if it will just sit under the tank...

Such trouble to fit such a small part....

 

[bluedaytona02]

OK, so the job is done. I haven't 'tested' it as I've got no fuel in the tank.

I know I should've taken photos but I just forgot.

As a basic how to:
Remove the tank - bolts near head-stem, bolt under rider seat, fuel line, two electric plugs and 2 air hoses.
Remove the top of the air box - screws around outer edge, 3 elec plugs.
Remove the base of the air box - 6 captive screws on side of air intake trumpets, losen nut at top near head-stem, remove air hoses on left and right side next to the frame, air hose and elec connector on edge near trumpets.
Remove the throttle bodies - take off overflow bottle and bracket (nut and bolt on inside of frame), injector connections, elec connection to solenoid between centre and right injectors, elec plug on right, losen the brass coloured collars around the rubber boot seals at the base of the throttle bodies
You don't need to completely remove the throttle bodies, just take them off leaving the cables and fuel rail attached. There is plenty of play to get to the screw needed.
Locate the manual idle screw - Looking at the throttle bodies in their normal position, there is a solenoid on the front between the centre and right intake. Lifting the TB's off, rotate them toward you 180 degrees. On the under-side, opposite where the solenoid is on the front, there is a little nut with a thread running through it that pushes against an arm, turning the throttle butterflies slightly. Mine was painted YELLOW. Remove the nut, and the thread comes with it.
Put in the manual idle adjuster with the spring and screw in to the same depth as the original. I added a little WD40 to lubricate.
Poke the idle screw out the RHS of the frame and test to see that it moves freely. There is an elec sensor under the TB's and a vacuum hose the the adjuster will need to be threaded between as it will end up bent when the TB's are replaced.
Replace the throttle bodies
Replace the lower air box
Replace the upper air box
Replace the tank

There are more defined procedures to remove the air box and throttle bodies in the manual. I doesn't say you need to take the overflow bottle off, but this is necessary to gain access to the collar on the left intake.

Thanks Juz for a bit of help...

 

[john_char]

Hey Waz, the hose is actually a coolant line, I found out the hard way as I popped it off removing the TBs for the second time!!!!:itsok:Not too bright!!!!

I'm leaving the airbox off so I can tune all TBs, but gotta wait for my R/R to come in....

BTW, the manual cam chain tensioner went in easy too.

John.

 

[bluedaytona02]

All is OK now John.

Glad yours is on the way to being sorted too.

Haven't decided on the CCT yet as I've not got any excess noise... yet.

 

[qweesy]

Just thought Id post pics of the install pretty straight forward. pics are a little blurry had to use phone, my digi cam died.

1.)flip over TB's take out stock idle screw and nut.

2.) put manual adjuster in about 4-5 threads showing out on the other side.

3.) route manual idle between the temp sensor and the little coolant hose out to the right side of engine.

Hope this helps others :thumbup::thumbup:

 

[MGFChapin]

Nice how to qweesy!

John and Waz, the how to for manual tensioners here isn't comprehensive. I know 2 guys now that have blown up their engines following it, one going too loose and the other too tight. Rather than screwing in until you feel contact then backing out 1/4 turn, you need to remove the cam cover. If there's no cam chain rattle, leave the old tensioner in and measure the slack in the cam chain between the 2 camshaft sprockets. Should be like 20-30mm, but rotate the engine to measure a few different spots. Remove old tensioner, install new one, tighten until the slack is the same. Rotate the engine and check multiple spots. Much more reliable than the how to's or APE's method.

 

[bluedaytona02]

thx MGF

think I'll leave the old one in till I need to change it after hearing that. All is fine atm.

 

[john_char]

Hmmm, already done mine and I must admit that it does sound smoother - I'll just have to keep an eye on it and hopefully she won't blow up......

 

[Smiley]

Just wondering if you need anything else to make the manual idle adjuster work or just bolt it on. eg, tuneboy.
I tryed to up the revs on a TT 600 at the throtle bodies and it only worked for a minute and the computer must have said, slow down, which it did.

Thanks Smiley

 

[john_char]

I actually disconnected the Idle Stepper motor, no need for it in mu opinion with the manual adjuster fitted.

 

[bluedaytona02]

where's the plug 4 that?
did u get a fault code?
any problems after?

 

[qweesy]

I actually disconnected the Idle Stepper motor, no need for it in mu opinion with the manual adjuster fitted.

no error code?

where's the plug 4 that?
did u get a fault code?
any problems after?

I would like to remove the stepper motor but I though you couldn't unless you had the race ECU..... or until tuneboy / tune ECU make it so we can disable it