[camel_killer]

thanks for the post have 104 mile on the bike and have 63 mm of slack and my dealer gave me the wrong owners manual!!!! you post helped out a great deal thanks

 

[Greg]

Thanks for another great post. One question though, how do you keep forward pressure on the rear wheel for tightening it?

It looks like once you undo it, gravity is only going to make the back wheel slide one way (towards the rear, so tightening the chain). Will the force of the throttle actually force the wheel back against the adjusters at the side, or should I be using something myself (besides pushing on the back tyre with my hadn) to move the wheel forward?

 

[BEERMONSTER]

If you have taken the slack out of the chain, wheel should be flush against adjusters, I just use my hand/boot to make sure it stays that way when tightening wheel nut.

Simon

 

[JLong]

To keep the wheel tight up against the adjusters while you tighten the axle nut, I put a rag in the top run of the chain, then roll the wheel backward by hand-(I use a paddock stand)so it gets in between the chain and sprocket-pulls everything up tight against the adjusters and I find it easier than trying to push the wheel forward while cranking on the axle nut.

 

[toxidomask]

thanks for this tip

 

[ace]

thanks! i've never adjusted a chain before, but it was easy!

 

[Nobody]

How about a sticky on how to post pictures? Am I a total idiot or what? I can't even figure it out using the search feature.

 

[NitroNorry]

How about a sticky on how to post pictures? Am I a total idiot or what? I can't even figure it out using the search feature.

POSTING PICTURES
1. Get your pic hosted on a Web Server (eg photobucket.com) or this site.
2. Open the pic you want to share.
3. Right click on it
4. Click "Properties"
5. Copy the address eg (http://images.kodakgallery.com/photos1829/2/81/28/86/66/0/66862881210_0_ALB.jpg)
6. In your post put

after it - no spaces.

 

[Eclipze]

I've adjusted chains on bikes for years, so many times, but never using this sort of technique. Excellent post, most appreicated!

One question... Whne measuring the amount of deflection in the chain, how much force do you use?

 

[Will]

For what its worth, I tend to get a whole lot of mileage out of chains and don't need to adjust them very often. I run the maximum amount of slack so the chain doesn't pull on the countershaft sprocket even when the suspension is completely flexed. I also use a beam compass to check the alignment. The way that works is that I pick a spot on the back axle assembly that is the same on both sides and a spot on the swingarm pivot that is the same on both sides. Those spots are what you measure to. When they are exactly equal, you tighten the axle nut, then tighten the adjusters afterward. That way, you don't change the alignment messing with the adjusters. I do not completely trust the marks on the swingarm, even though they are pretty accurate on a Triumph. The adjustments are very small, anyway, and just a little can put your back wheel out of alignment. The nice thing about our bikes is the fact that the exhaust doesn't get in the way of this measurement like it does on every other bike I have ever had. I typically get over 15K miles out of chains, and would get more if I actually kept them clean and lubed. When they come off the bike, they usually are in their terminal stretch, but they don't have tight spots in them. For some reason, I have a tight spot developing in the 675s chain at 3K miles, so I must have fouled up the alignment when I got a new back tire. The alignment is the most important part of chain maintenance, in my opinion.

 

[Peleus]

A bit of a stupid question.

When measuring the slack for the chain, which one of these is correct.

1) do you measure it from its shortest normal sitting distance (no extra pressure) then physically lift it and there is your difference.

2) physically depress the chain to get your initial starting point (just like lifting it but in reverse), then lift it to get your second measurement.

 

[valoflyby]

Not a "stupid" question @ all.

The real short version is that the manufacturer specifies the chain slack measurement for an "at rest" bike. Meaning, the suspension isn't compressed @ all, other than the weight of the chassis on the shock.

If you were to measure slack on a chain while there's a weight on the chassis, for example if you were to sit on it... this would merely add more slack to the chain than is specfied by the manufacturer as the chain slack tightens as load is applied to the chassis.

A "too loose" chain is preferable to a "too tight" chain. If you were to completely unload the swingarm... to support the bike from the pegs or similar... then make the adjustment to the specified slack... this could cause binding near full compression of the shock. This situation is "bad".

Good luck!

 

[Shinobi675]

Cheers boys, now I'm scared. I've never put this much thought into it. I just ride it, think to myself, "it's a little jumpy today" so then adjust the chain?

Am I being a fool? I've got about 15k miles under the belt (on two bikes) and adjust the chain fairly frequently, but only by pretty small amounts (I think).

Does it really make a massive difference to be this accurate? I have had times when I've adjusted it, riden it for 10 miles, then thought, not enough and readjusted it some more?

Also I'm getting a scottoiler fitted at my 6k service next month. I'm hoping this will help as I'm damn lazy with the lubing.

 

[teriyakimonkey]

Why don't Triumph say to take out the slack in the top of the chain like you have here? My last bike manual didn't either. :huh:

 

[LynxZ3r0]

Just did this today to my bike. Was at 14k on the clock (I bought it a month or so ago) and did not appear to have ever been adjusted. Was at 90mm out of spec!! Holy cow. I think I'm on the verge of needing a new chain, anyways, but I still fixed it.

Adjusted it to 38mm and the bike feels totally different. Love it :thumbupefinitely going to have to pay close attention to this in the future.

 

[Neanderthal]

Not a "stupid" question @ all.

The real short version is that the manufacturer specifies the chain slack measurement for an "at rest" bike. Meaning, the suspension isn't compressed @ all, other than the weight of the chassis on the shock.

If you were to measure slack on a chain while there's a weight on the chassis, for example if you were to sit on it... this would merely add more slack to the chain than is specfied by the manufacturer as the chain slack tightens as load is applied to the chassis.

A "too loose" chain is preferable to a "too tight" chain. If you were to completely unload the swingarm... to support the bike from the pegs or similar... then make the adjustment to the specified slack... this could cause binding near full compression of the shock. This situation is "bad".

Good luck!

valoflyby,
First, thanks for the nice write-up! While not new to motorcycles there are a couple points in your tutorial that have got me really confused. Please bear with me but I hi-lited the points in the above sentence that appear to conflict with each other, unless I am mis-interpreting.

Also, this whole tie-down business has me confused:
2. .......To facilitate this, put the bike in gear (any) and then either use a strap (as depicted in the pictures) to put tension on the wheel in a "backwards" direction (if on a stand) or position the bike uphill such that gravity will provide the needed tension.
If you strap it tight, how can you make any adjustment? How much tension backwards?

Lastly (sorry), this point:
7. Retighten the locknuts with the 13mm wrench by holding the adjuster bolts still with the 12mm wrench. Retighten the axle nut by using the 27mm socket and by PUSHING FORWARD as depicted in the picture. This ensures that the axle is snug up against the adjusters and won't "move forward" (out of adjustment) the first time you crack open the throttle. This is also the most important time to have the bike straight so that you don't tighten down the axle while there's a side load on the wheel.
I am assuming the pushing forward is only applicable if you had to remove slack, correct?

My last bike, a Kawasaki, had a center stand. The service manual had a pretty good procedural write-up on adjusting slack which had nothing about taking slack out of the top chain run or putting tension on the wheel.
Maybe I've been lucky with the Kawasaki's, but I have found that keeping the chain well lubed with DuPont Multi-Lube I never had to make any adjustments - every time I checked the slack it was the same.

Again, I'm not trying to be difficult and do greatly appreciate your help and efforts here. Just trying to make sure I understand so I don't screw something up.

Neanderthal

 

[Neanderthal]

Can anyone help me here? :help:

Neanderthal

 

[Devilfish]

I noticed a discrepancy with this How To method and the service manual...

The service manual defines the range of free play to be measured (35 to 40mm) as the total vertical movement range - both upwards and downwards...

This How To suggests measuring free play from rest and upwards only, and does not account for the amount of downward free play in the chain.

Just wondering what anyone thought about that, as it would seem that based on this, following this How To could lead you to inaccurate measurements and actually adjusting your chain to be too loose.

The method from the Service Manual states that when you have found the tight spot on the chain, with the bike on level ground (not on a rear stand, and nobody sitting on it) measure the full range of chain's vertical free play (by pulling down and pushing up on the chain), which should be 35-40mm. (See Number 1 in picture below, what they call "Maximum Movement Position")

 

[slats]

I adjusted my chain slack for the first time this evening, measuring upward and downward chain travel along the bottom run of chain to gauge the slack, in accord with my interpretation of the Triumph service manual instructions for this job (pictured in the post above).

I used a Pitbull stand to support the bike, fully raising the rear wheel on the stand, then lowering it to the ground and keeping the Pitbull just barely engaged on the rear spindles. I did not use the strap method suggested in this thread. Instead, my right hand supported the bike, my right knee kept the Pitbull from rolling, and I had no problem holding a ruler with my left fingers and moving the chain up and down with my left thumb. The bike felt adequately supported, straight, level, and loaded with only the chassis weight throughout the measuring process. After taking measurements, I raised the rear wheel off the ground using the Pitbull, loosened, adjusted, and tightened the lock, adjusting, and spindle nuts/bolts, then lowered the rear wheel back on the ground (again with the Pitbull barely engaged on the spindles) to check the new measurement. Really, it was a cinch.

Of note, each flat on the adjusting bolts makes a bigger difference than I expected, altering chain slack on the order of +/- 4mm per flat. I went from 65+mm of slack to a perfect 38mm.

Allso in accord with the manual, I checked and found that the right and left side adjusting bolts were not equally spaced fore/aft when I finished the job, which was easy to correct using the circle detents behind the spindle on each side of the swing arm, measured with an engineering scale ruler (to 10ths and 100ths of an inch).

Thanks to Valo for the writeup, and everyone else for their real-life chain slack adjustment stories and questions . . . these threads are always very helpful, even if not entirely settled.

 

[theRipper]

Man, that sounds like a pain in the ass trying to hold the bike up, pit bull stand in place, ruler in the other hand, and moving the chain around. Don't think I could pull it off without getting super frustrated first. haha.

Anyway, as stated in the manual, I move the chain down first before pushing it up. That whole range of motion is what I use for free-play measurement. Also, I measure it not vertically, but slightly off vertical - parallel to the movement of a reference rivet as you push down and then up (which is shown in the manual illustration if you look closely). I leave the bike on a stand while i take the measurements, I'm not too worried about that. By putting weight on the swingarm, you're increasing the distance between the pivot and the rear axle so your measurement will be on the tighter side. So if you set it under the same conditions, you'll actually end up erring on the looser end. I suppose if you wanted to try and eliminate this, you could stick a brick or piece of wood under the kickstand until the bike is straight and provision something on the other side so it doesn't tip over. But it still seems to me you'd be transferring the bike's weight onto the swingarm anyway (through the tire rather than directly to the swingarm). I don't use the tie down method either.

The idea for the chain is to be loose enough to allow the suspension its full range of travel. If you don't, then as you hit bumps your suspension absorbs the force until the chain reaches its freeplay limit. The force then transfers to the chain and it takes the rest of the force. Because it's rigid, it stresses the pins and plates, and stretches your chain.

Now I've got a question about alignment. If the distance between the swingarm (where the adjuster bolt screws in) and the adjuster bolt head is equal on both sides, then your rear wheel should be aligned, correct? which is similar to the measuring the distance from the swing arm pivot to the rear axle, but perhaps not as accurate? Or is the only real way (outside of lasers and fancy do-dads) to align your tires to pull out the string and to measure off the front and rear?

check it. I've attached a Dave Moss article on wheel alignment and chain adjustment. It's from Friction Zone Magazine. (http://www.feelthetrack.com/tuning_guide.htm Set up article 2)