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Helibars vs Speedymoto on 2015 Daytona?

10K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  i675  
#1 · (Edited)
I'm looking to raise the bar position up from stock on a 2015 Daytona (non R). After searching the interwebs and reading though all the posts I could find on the subject, it seems like the best/only options are the Helibars and the Speedymoto with omnibars.

It appears that the Helibars are the most convenient option with regard to installation. I haven't been able to find out which set would be able to create the most rise without interfering with anything, or if they the same. It looks like the speedymoto would give more rise. Can anyone confirm this? I'm more interested in higher position than ease of installation, but if they are the same I'd choose the easier/cleaner install.

Picture of bike, because why not.

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#3 · (Edited)
Thanks, but read that there were fitment issues with those on the 13+ Daytona?
From what I've read, the majority of people swapping out the stock pieces go with Helibars, I assume because they are an exact fit with no issues. The second most common swap I see is the Speedymoto, which aren't "plug and play" like the Helis, but have still been reported to work well. Both look very well made and I've pretty much arrowed it to one of those two.

For reference, here are the Helibars -
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And here are the Speedymotos -
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#4 ·
Oh - OK. I wouldn't know much about clipon fitment on a 13+ Daytona and obviously you've done your fair share of reading.


The only issue I've had with mine is that my arms are somewhat more spread out than before and I don't like it but it's not much. Actually one of the reasons I opted for a STriple is exactly because I presumed I would have more options as regards riding position, which I am a perfectionist on - I just find pleasure "wearing" a bike instead of just riding it.
 
#5 ·
You can probably put different bars on the Street triple too can't you? Lots more space to play with on the Triple compared to the Daytona for sure.

I was looking at getting a new Street Triple 675 back in 2016 when I first moved to GA, but opted for a Speed Triple (dealer leftover '15 model) instead, because my wife liked to ride with me occasionally and I had previously found my 750 and 996 were better with a passenger than the 600cc bikes I had before. After riding the Speed and Street back to back, I felt the Speed would definitely be better two-up even though I preferred the Street for myself. Turned out that we almost never ride together now and the roads near our house, being hilly and twisty, would have been much more comfortable and fun when riding solo if I had the Street instead of the Speed. Went to the dealer and rode the new 765R recently and loved it. But they offered me next to nothing on trade for the Speed I had bought from them just two years ago. Tried to sell it myself without any luck. Then a fellow who had also tried unsuccessfully to sell his '15 Daytona offered to trade me. Since they are worth the same, I figured might as well give it a try. I like everything about the Daytona except the bar position, which is just painful for me. If I can raise them up some, I think I'll be good. Otherwise I'll have to streetfighter it or just try to sell it too.


TL;DR Bought the wrong bike, then traded it for another the-wrong-bike, now trying to make it work.
 
#8 ·
You can probably put different bars on the Street triple too can't you? Lots more space to play with on the Triple compared to the Daytona for sure.

I was looking at getting a new Street Triple 675 back in 2016 when I first moved to GA, but opted for a Speed Triple (dealer leftover '15 model) instead, because my wife liked to ride with me occasionally and I had previously found my 750 and 996 were better with a passenger than the 600cc bikes I had before. After riding the Speed and Street back to back, I felt the Speed would definitely be better two-up even though I preferred the Street for myself. Turned out that we almost never ride together now and the roads near our house, being hilly and twisty, would have been much more comfortable and fun when riding solo if I had the Street instead of the Speed. Went to the dealer and rode the new 765R recently and loved it. But they offered me next to nothing on trade for the Speed I had bought from them just two years ago. Tried to sell it myself without any luck. Then a fellow who had also tried unsuccessfully to sell his '15 Daytona offered to trade me. Since they are worth the same, I figured might as well give it a try. I like everything about the Daytona except the bar position, which is just painful for me. If I can raise them up some, I think I'll be good. Otherwise I'll have to streetfighter it or just try to sell it too.

TL;DR Bought the wrong bike, then traded it for another the-wrong-bike, now trying to make it work.
I can feel the frustration. And yes, that's the reason why I opted for the S-T. I had 11 years to experiment on my SV 650 to find my perfect "do-it-all position" (and actually the SV never really provided it because there's no way to shorten the tank - at the ideal position my thumbs would be pressed between the bars and the tank at full lock) and I reckoned the ST would provide that without problem.

It's worth looking into this as sometimes even half an inch of change can bring great changes in body dynamics. Also, another thing I discovered is that footpeg position is crucial for upper body support. The footpeg leverage is crucial in determining how your legs will be able to support your upper body. The Street Triple (and the Daytona even more so) have a philosophy of having the footpegs relatively rearwards. If your clipons don't solve your problem, try to bring the pegs a bit forward (no shame in cheap chinese adapters if they solve your problem - that's what I did!) and you'll see that it takes quite a lot of weight off your wrists.

The thing is that ultimately there's no perfect position. The higher the speed then the footpegs need to go more backwards and the clipons lower.
 
#6 ·
Helibars

I was ready to sell the Daytona before I got the Helibars. They won't turn your bike into an all-day cruiser, but I'm living with the compromise because I love the bike. The bars take some of the weight off your wrists, the rest is up to the rider, supporting yourself with your core muscles, yada yada... :^)
 

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#7 ·
I was ready to sell the Daytona before I got the Helibars. They won't turn your bike into an all-day cruiser, but I'm living with the compromise because I love the bike. The bars take some of the weight off your wrists, the rest is up to the rider, supporting yourself with your core muscles, yada yada... :^)
I definitely like how everything bolt up like stock on the Helibars, but if I can get a little more rise out of the Speedymotos, I'll go with those even though they require a bit more fiddling to fit.

Yep, I grip the tank with my knees and use my abdomen and lower back to hold myself up, but at lower speeds that gets tiring real quick. Once I have a set of bars on there, I'll get some techspec pads as well to make it easier to grip the tank, which is also narrower than I'm used to. I'm also older than I was when I used to exclusively ride sport bikes and so a bit more physically beat up from work, less skilled at riding from being a bit out of practice, and lastly I suspect the stock bars on the Daytona are just more aggressive than what my previous sport bikes had.
 
#9 ·
Interesting observation, it hadn't occurred to me that the foot position could make a big difference. I don't know if there is much to be easily done to adjust the foot position on the Daytona to a more forward location. I would assume, but really don't know, that aftermarket rearsets would have more rearward adjustment than forward. Only ever installed a set once, and actually kind of like the look of the bike pretty stock. And of course if I start to imagine spending too much just making it comfortable, it begins to seem more palatable to take the loss and trade it in on a new 765.

Somewhat oddly, the only other time I was physically uncomfortable on a motorcycle was when I felt I was sitting too upright and had to add clip-ons and rearsets to be in a position I liked.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Interesting observation, it hadn't occurred to me that the foot position could make a big difference. I don't know if there is much to be easily done to adjust the foot position on the Daytona to a more forward location. I would assume, but really don't know, that aftermarket rearsets would have more rearward adjustment than forward. Only ever installed a set once, and actually kind of like the look of the bike pretty stock. And of course if I start to imagine spending too much just making it comfortable, it begins to seem more palatable to take the loss and trade it in on a new 765.
Yes it makes a great difference, at least to me.

I've got these on my bike (actually the older version which only had a couple of 25mm brackets - now they offer 20mm and 30mm brackets in a single set). They are chinese OK but they are robust enough for me to trust. They don't change the look of the bike if you get the proper color. I liked them so much that I ordered a second set to have replacements if I ever need them and the cost isn't prohibitive if you eventually decide you don't like them:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Posi...ph/272128138771?hash=item3f5c19de13:m:muyUKsW_Cr77UAEjVIi6MGA:rk:2:pf:0&vxp=mtr
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the link, that is a much cheaper option than a full set of rearsets. Didn't know something like that was made.

Though, while I imagine you wouldn't be using or recommending them if you didn't find them to be secure, that little pin holding them in position isn't very confidence inspiring. Being made in China isn't bad in and of itself, lots of high quality stuff and parts we use every day come from China. However the cheaper ebay Chinese stuff seems kind of hit or miss with variable quality control and questionable material specifications.

I think I would feel more confident in something like this -
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Seems like a more secure interlocking adjustment design. Though they are also considerably more expensive at $155. Could be worth getting the cheaper set you mentioned to see if the change in position were desirable enough to then get the more expensive set, as even those are a good bit less than a nice set of adjustable rearsets. Could also possibly find the desired position on the cheaper ones and then tig weld them permanently into that position, no longer relying on the little pin. Though the questionable material specs could come into play there.

Also found these while looking around -
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They look quite nice and are only $75. Unfortunately they seem to only be available for Ducati motorcycles and the Thruxton.

For now, I'll start with the clip-ons and see where that gets me.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Suit yourself. The ones you posted (interlocking) seem certainly very secure but the first ones protrude a lot towards the sides and I feel they might cause issues with that.

Mine have internal pins (not visible from the outside) that secure the brackets in their specified angle. I checked them all before installing and they seemed fine - good threads no cracks, not even scratches. With a bit of good thread locker in the main screws they are secure enough for me. What I found necessary to do was use a dremel & saw to cut lines across the upper faces of the brackes as if my boot finds itself putting most of its weight on that it slips like there's oil on it. A few cut lines in "X" fashion across the exposed (upper) side of the brackets solved the problem perfectly.

A nice thing is that you can also fix the pegs onto the bases themselves without the bracket - the screw is compatible. So if you have a spill and the bracket breaks or if you want to revert to stock position without removing the whole assembly then there's the easy solution.

Anyway, I'm not advertising anyone nor willing to be - I'm just sharing opinions and experiences. Good luck with your experiments. I'd be interested to know what worked best for you - might get ideas for the future.
 
#13 ·
On the 06-12 Daytona, switching from the stock rearsets to a set from a 08-12 Street Triple will give you some more leg room and slightly more forward foot position, I did this on my 2011 Daytona along with Helibars, it is no sport tourer but it makes it more comfortable to ride. I don't know if there is difference on the 13+ models, but it may be worth a try if you find used ones cheap.
 
#14 ·
That's another interesting option, thanks. I did some looking and it seems the 13+ Daytona stock rearsets are compatible with the 13+ stock Street Triple rearsets (except for the exhaust mount). That would keep a stock look while adjusting the foot position up and forward a bit. The trick would be finding a set cheap.

Doesn't look like anyone has direct knowledge of the helibars in comparison to the speedymotos. So I went ahead and ordered a set of the speedymoto clip-ons. If that seems like a livable improvement, I'll get some techspec tank pads as well. If those alterations don't get me quite there, I'll see what I can do about the pegs.
 
#15 ·
I just got them installed and the Speedymotos made a pretty significant difference for me personally. They sent them fairly quickly, but mixed up the size and sent me the wrong ones initially. After sending me a return label to print out, I had to box them up and drive them into town to the UPS store, which was not super convenient, but they did get the correct ones shipped to me very fast, which was nice.

They don't look much different when viewed from the riders position. the first photo is the stock clip-ons and the second photo is the Speedymoto set.
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They are adjusted to have a bit less rearward angle than the stock bars, but the bigger difference is in their height. Where the bar attaches to the clip-on, they are right about 1" higher than stock. The stock clamps have a small space between the top of the clamp and the triple, while I have the new ones pushed all the way up against the triple. At the far end of the bars where the weights are, they are over 2" higher than the stock bars were.

Couple of notes:
The Speedymoto set no longer comes with a bracket to attach the brake fluid reservoir, so you have to fab up your own.
If you drill a hole through the far ends of the bars, corresponding to the hole in the stock bars, you can install the factory bar weights.
 
#16 ·
Couple more pictures to try and better show the height difference.
I think you can see here that where the bar attaches to the clamp puts them higher up than the stock units.
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You can see under the brake fluid reservoir the simple little bracket which needs to be made.
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I used one of the original bolts to attach the bracket to the bar and then a little allen bolt and nut to attach the reservoir to the bracket, as the original bolt's head was too large to fit in that tight spot. Making the bracket any larger would have caused the top of the reservoir to hit against the inside of the fairing with the bars at the position I have them at.

And here from the other side.
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Still looks pretty much stock like this.
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We had another warm day so I was able to take it out again for another ride before the next freeze. As I said earlier, this has made a huge difference for me. I find that if I'm sitting on the bike (or on a chair, or stool, or whatever) I can bend at the waist to a certain extent where I can comfortably hold myself without using my hands, then if I lean forward just a little more it becomes difficult to hold myself up for any length of time. The stock bars put me in that latter position which became uncomfortable for me as soon as I start rolling. The new clip-ons put me back into the former position and make it like riding a completely different bike.

I think it might be possible to swivel the bars all the way around so that the bend in them faces forward rather than to the rear. Then the clamps could be rotated farther outward to counter the forward sweep and bring them back to a more neutral position. This could allow the bars to be made wider overall and I think set them slightly closer to the rider. The bars might need to be slid farther into the clamps in that position to keep them from being too wide, though that would also require getting a longer hose for the brake fluid reservoir (also, might look funny). I may try to reposition them like that just to see if it's possible.

In the current position, none of the stock lines needed to be re-routed for everything to work properly and the only change needed was the little bracket.
 
#18 ·
Thanks Plasmablaster, I'll certainly keep an eye out for a set of 13+ factory rearsets. I was thinking of going with your suggestion to get a cheap set of adjustable footpegs to see if I liked the change. However after taking a closer look at how I generally have my feet positioned, I don't think it would be comfortable for me. I set my feet right up against the rearset frame so that my feet are over the hinge portion where the footped attaches. The little step created by the adjustable set seems like it would put my feet in what would be an unusual position for me. I assume you haven't found that to be uncomfortable, or did you never have your feet right up against the frame before?
 
#19 ·
I understand perfectly well what you're saying. Fortunately, I have the bracket facing forward and perfectly parallel to the ground (I only wanted to move the pegs forward, not downwards). The feet are at a certain downward angle so actually I can step on both the pegs and the brackets themselves, as from that angle they are flush.



The only problem is that the bracket is very slippery and this needs addressing, which as I stated in a previous post, I dealt with by using a dremel saw to cut lines on the exposed surface. They don't look very-very nice but I'm very happy when riding and that's the only matter that matters for me.
 
#20 ·
I went ahead and moved the clamps out a little, spun the bars around, and moved them slightly farther into the clamps to see how that felt. To me this is even better. It looks a little odd from the cockpit, but doesn't look off otherwise. This change moved the bars closer to the tank and rider by about an inch, which decreases the overall reach. It also widened them a bit and actually provides more clearance to easily move the bars from stop to stop without getting close to the fairing.

Had to make a now little bracket for the brake fluid reservoir, but nothing else was changed or re-routed.

Below are pictures of all three positions. First is stock, second is the "regular" position of the speedymotos, and third is with them spun around.
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This last picture shows a bit of how much flatter this setup is than the stock bars.
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