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Street triple oil sump

Hey, I've been watching your progress and felt I needed to chime in. I just happened to have the fairings off my 08 Daytona and noticed that my oil sump has the bolt bosses that yours is missing. I believe your engine is pre street triple. I would guess that all 675's after the street was introduced have the same sump. Should make finding one a bit easier. Keep the updates coming!
 
Discussion starter · #62 ·
Hey, I've been watching your progress and felt I needed to chime in. I just happened to have the fairings off my 08 Daytona and noticed that my oil sump has the bolt bosses that yours is missing. I believe your engine is pre street triple. I would guess that all 675's after the street was introduced have the same sump. Should make finding one a bit easier. Keep the updates coming!
Thanks for that. Yes mine is one of the first 2006 models.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Day 11

Day 11

More work on the ignition switch block connectors. Move the wires for the flapper valve and horn. Will put a resistor onto the flapper valve later. 47 OHM I believe?

Moved the indicator relay to its new home on top of the airbox with all the others and reconnected the wires to the loom.

When I has having a look at Bean Machines Street Triple R I noticed that the cables for the lights and speedo exited the frame above the radiator and not the side of the headstock like the handlebar and ignition switches. I had missed this before when looking at a showroom model, but luckily Bean Machine had his forks off so I could see more clearly. This was great help as the exit at the side of the headstock is getting a little busy, so this makes life easier.

So I rerouted those wires. After that I got busy reconnecting a lot of wires that had to wait for other wires to be reconnected to determine how long the wires had to be where best to solder them together. Er, hope that makes sense.

Got a lot done today and I think I'm pretty close to being able to try and start her again, to see if I got it right. Scary time ahead.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
When you fit the resistor for the flapper you need one of an appropriate wattage which is almost as big as the solenoid. This one should be fine. Apparently it's 20mmx 20mm.
Thanks Teriyakimonkey
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Day 12

Day 12

Today is the day. Today I am in a position to turn the ignition key and see if what I have done is correct, or if I have completely screwed things up. The battery is going to be replaced as it doesn't hold it's charge for very long, so I take the precaution of charging the battery first.

While that's going on I do some temporary reconnection of wires (lights, indicators, flapper valve) just in case they have an impact on things. I re-check everything I have done to make sure no wires are unconnected. The charger has finished its work. I put the fuel tank back on and then connect up the clocks.

Key in the ignition.

I turn the key.........

NOTHING! NOTHING £@&%ING HAPPENS! AAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGHHH!

This is bad, this is very bad. When I say nothing happens, I mean no rev lights come on, the LCD display doesn't appear, the rev counter needle doesn't do its trendy sweep of the clocks. Nothing. I push the starter button. Still nothing.

My heart sinks.

I'm out of my depth now.

I walk away.

Sorry no photos. Unless you want one of me going nuclear.
 
Check your ignition relay voltages.

At least if nothing happens you aren't damaging anything. Rewiring a bike completely is a big job, I do this shit for a living and I don't take it lightly. Drink a beer, calm down and bust out a meter.
 
Discussion starter · #68 ·
Check your ignition relay voltages.

At least if nothing happens you aren't damaging anything. Rewiring a bike completely is a big job, I do this shit for a living and I don't take it lightly. Drink a beer, calm down and bust out a meter.
Thanks for the advice Tripped1. See the next post for the update.
 
Discussion starter · #69 · (Edited)
Day 13

Day 13

Hmmm. Day 13. My lucky numbers (my race number is 31) so perhaps I can sort it today. I had a good think about it overnight and looked at the wiring diagram, although I might as well have been reading Greek for all the good it does. Nothing was happening, so a fundamental lack of power? I charged the battery and the Optimate said all was good with the battery. I check it with a volt meter and sure enough it's producing the goods.

I check the fuse box (er no Noiseboy, I didn't take any fuses out. Should I have done when soldering?), I look at each fuse and do continuity tests on all wires going in and out and everything is fine there.

So I have power and everything I've looked at so far seems to be OK. Maybe the power from the battery is not getting "out"? I look at the big wires leaving the battery and follow them to their first connection with anything. It's not far away, about 6 inches. Hmmm. What's this then? I look at the wiring diagram again, not really expecting it to speak to me. Battery goes to "43". I look up what "43" is. It's the starter solenoid. Then a light bulb moment. It says it's fused. I know fuses blow, so could that be it? I look closely at the starter solenoid and see a 30 amp fuse on the side of it. Hang on, that's just a spare. Where does the fuse go? Aha! This plastic cover comes off and lo, another 30 amp fuse.

It takes some pulling out. I look at it closely and it looks blown to me. My despair goes from DESCON 1 to DESCON 2. Could this be the cause of my woes? If it is, how the heck did it blow? I haven't started the bike since I commenced work on the loom. Hang on, there is a big brown wire that connects with it. I had trouble soldering that and spent some time with the soldering iron on the wire. Could it have got too hot and blown? If so, why didn't the fuse in the fuse box blow as that end of the wire was much closer and the fuse smaller? Whatever!

I put the new fuse in. A small prayer to the God of motorcycling. I turn the key..............

Watch the movie to find out

 
Discussion starter · #71 ·
See

I give this advice, in reality, I would have been throwing shit around the garage.
You must be a parent: do as I say, not as I do! :laugh:
 
Well done mate.
It must have been a long night of worrying
 
Discussion starter · #76 · (Edited)
Nice one Rob, good to see that all your puzzling and hardwork has paid off. And hey, its good to hear that engine again!:nod:

R
She's never sounded sweeter!

Excellent news! What have you got left to do?
So here is my job list:

1. Fit different headlights/bikini fairing. Requires a custom made bracket.

2. Re-direct the wiring loom. DONE

3. Fit Street Triple yokes and handlebars. DONE

4. Fit Street Triple throttle & clutch cables. DONE CLUTCH

5. Lengthen wiring from handlebars. NOT NEEDED

6. Relocate the relays and fuse box that live inside left fairing panel. DONE

7. Remove all bits associated with flapper valve. DONE

8. Relocate indicator relay from behind radiator. DONE

9. Relocate flip switch from in front of speedo. DONE

10. Get rid of horrible brown engine covers and cam cover.

11. Repaint bike and wheels.

12. Fit mirrors.

13. Loads of other stuff I hadn't anticipated!!!!

13a. Make brackets to fit bellypan.

13b. Make bracket to mount speedo on bikini fairing.

13c. Fit new indicators.

13d. Tape up loom once road tested.

13e. Fit resistor to flapper valve wiring.

13f. Fit longer brake line on front brake.

13g. More stuff I hadn't anticipated!

Well done mate.
It must have been a long night of worrying
Oh, it certainly was. But having a good think about it and some advice from others helped massively.
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
Day 14

Day 14

Not much time to do anything today, so I just add a little bit of wiring. Jut for a change!

Going back to my post for Day 10 I said:

"When looking at the left handlebar switchgear block connector I found that two wires do not connect to anything on the opposite block connector! Having no electrical knowledge I didn't understand this. Surely a wire coming out of the switchgear needs to attach to something else?

Time to consult the wiring diagram in the manual. In the manual it shows that the red/yellow wire does not connect to anything! It's for the dipped beam switch on the headlight. As my bike has the dipped beam on permanently, could it be that some markets in the world can turn their lights off and in these countries that wire would connect to another wire in the loom?"

I have had a great help here from TeriyakiMonkey who pointed out that switchgear is made by a third party for use on many different bikes and the manufacturer uses those wires that it needs. As the Daytona has its dip beam on permanently it has no use for this yellow/red wire. However it is of huge benefit to my conversion and I have to thank TeriyakiMonkey for pointing this out to me.

My new lighting arrangement has a different set up and if I leave the wiring as it is I risk blowing fuses or melting wires. That's where the yellow/red wire comes in that currently does nothing. If I cut the blue/red wire going to the dip beam (on the standard Daytona the blue/red wire is located running from the blue relay to the connector to the lights) and run this back to connect with the yellow/red wire in the switchgear then when I switch from dip to main, the dip light turns off, rather than staying on at the same time as the main beam light.

Look at the photos to see the result. Also I have included the wiring change supplied to me by TeriyakiMonkey. Thanks again for that mate.
 

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Great thread this, loving the day by day updates.

As for the project itself - how could you do that to such a great looking bike?? I so can't wait to see the end result!!

Fair play to you anyway, it's a ballsy shout and I hope you get the result your hoping for.

Good luck :cool2:
 
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