[Sentinel]

Where the Daytona's is, just hidden under the headlight bracket.

Thanks, that's good to know. :thumbup:

 

[Logans08Daytona675]

Looks like an expensive build. LOL

 

[Ruby Racing]

Looks like an expensive build. LOL

Hopefully not. Already got some eBay bargains and I plan to sell off the stuff I don't need anymore like yokes, bodywork, headlights, clip-ons, etc. Plus I'm doing it all myself, so saving there. The only job I wont do is the re-spray once the conversion is complete. My painting is rubbish.

 

[Ruby Racing]

Project Trixie Transformation - DAY 2

Day 2

Few jobs I got done today. First off was to ditch the air intake, the pesky flapper valve and associated vacuum canister and wiring and tubing connected to it. It all came off pretty easy. Going off what I have learnt from others on this forum I can ditch the electric box which is connected to the vacuum canister, but I have to put a 47 ohm resister in its place. That's a bit further down the road at this time, so we'll come back to that.

The tube that connects up to the throttle bodies/injector assembly needs to come off and I have again followed the advice of others on this forum and plugged the inlet to the throttle bodies. I can barely see where it connects, so no photos. But what I did was to cut a short section of the rubber tubing, about 3cm long, plugged one end with a screw, then fitted this small bit of tubing back onto the throttle body. Hopefully that will do the job. The screw is too big to get sucked into the metal hose attachment, so I figure the worst that can happen is the hose falls off. Photo of the tubing and screw below.

I have removed the radiator overflow bottle as it looks a bit nasty on show to the world. I plan to get a Street Triple overflow bottle as this sits under the seat, behind the battery. Only seen one on eBay so far and it was silly money. I could get a new one for the same amount.

An eBay bargain arrived today. I bought a brand new cam cover in black for..............get this................ £3.21! Can you believe that? I'll put that on when I change the throttle cables over.

Right. Time to start what I think will be the biggest job: re-directing the loom. Not been looking forward to this bit, but deep breath and get stuck in. I didn't realise undoing sticky tape could take so long. More fiddly than you would think. I was also being careful so I didn't damage any wires.

I got to the relays and fuse box and unwrapped them. Then my heart sunk. A few choice swear words and the shocking realisation that I may have taken on more than I can cope with. I thought, having no understanding of these things, that once I had the loom tape off I could just move the fuse box and relays to their new home under the fuel tank, on top of the air box. WRONG! They connect with other parts at the front of the bike, like the handlebar controls and speedo. This means I have to cut wires, a lot of wires!

I stared at it for a long time, hoping that it would magically fix itself. Strangely it didn't. I think I need to walk away and have a think. In fact, I'll sleep on it.

A few more choice swear words.

 

[Sentinel]

I wonder if you can fit the radiator side covers from the Street Triple?

 

[Ruby Racing]

I wonder if you can fit the radiator side covers from the Street Triple?

Already in my plans. I haven't checked it out properly yet but I will need to find a way of screwing the the cowls into the side of the rad. Can't be too big a problem: weld on some sort of brackets to the side of the rad.

The thing that will spoil things a bit is the filler neck for the rad is quite high on the Daytona. The Street Triple R is much lower and is hidden by the rad cowls. I will have to cut a hole in the top of the rad cowl in order to make it fit. Not happy about this solution. The only way I can solve it is to buy a Street Triple R radiator, but that won't be cheap, so not going down that route.

I can't really use a rad from a standard Street Triple as it has the filler neck on the right hand side CORRECTION. I AM WRONG. I WAS LOOKING AT AN ONLINE PARTS MICROFICHE AND IT SHOWED THE FILLER ON THE RIGHT OF THE BIKE. IT ISN'T IT'S THE SAME SIDE AS THE 675. SO A SECONDHAND RADIATOR MAY BE AN OPTION ALTHOUGH THE STREET TRIPLE ONE IS SLIGHTLY SMALLER, whereas the R and Daytona have it on the left. The standard Street Triple uses different hoses as well.

Probably just have to live with the exposed filler neck.

 

[Tripped1]

Probably just have to live with the exposed filler neck.

Find an aluminum bottle of some sort and just use that. The resi isn't really pressurized like the rest of the system so you can use pretty much whatever you want to.

The Streetfighter guys around here are using NOS drink bottles (long story of self-ownage).

 

[Sentinel]

Find an aluminum bottle of some sort and just use that. The resi isn't really pressurized like the rest of the system so you can use pretty much whatever you want to.

The Streetfighter guys around here are using NOS drink bottles (long story of self-ownage).

I don't think he was talking about the reserve, but rather the filler neck itself.

 

[Bean Machine]

Ruby if you need to cut and extend loom wiring don't use insulated crimps they will be very bulky if you have a few of them. Either tiwst and solder the cables or use the the barrel out of the crimp and cover with heat shrink, much neater. When you re tape the loom don't use ordinary insulating tape as it will go all sticky and horrible with heat, try and source proper loom tape.

 

[Ruby Racing]

I don't think he was talking about the reserve, but rather the filler neck itself.

I was! But thanks for the suggestions Tripped1.

 

[Ruby Racing]

Ruby if you need to cut and extend loom wiring don't use insulated crimps they will be very bulky if you have a few of them. Either tiwst and solder the cables or use the the barrel out of the crimp and cover with heat shrink, much neater. When you re tape the loom don't use ordinary insulating tape as it will go all sticky and horrible with heat, try and source proper loom tape.

Hi Bean Machine. I will be soldering, don't worry. Had a quick lesson the other day, but it will probably take time to get good at it. I will be getting lots of practice I'm sure! Any suggestions where I can get the loom tape? Appreciate your input, thanks.

 

[Ken M1]

Ruby, I may have been misinformed...but I think the "standard" Street and the "R" use the same exact radiator (their motor and output are exactly the same). I believe only the Daytona has the larger radiator (and different fill location). At least that's what I've been informed.

 

[Ruby Racing]

Ruby, I may have been misinformed...but I think the "standard" Street and the "R" use the same exact radiator (their motor and output are exactly the same). I believe only the Daytona has the larger radiator (and different fill location). At least that's what I've been informed.

Hi Ken M1

I'm not sure about the physical size of the radiators, but the "standard" Street uses a different rad to the R. The "standard" Street has the filler cap on the right side of the bike, the R on the left side, like the Daytona.CORRECTION. I AM WRONG. I WAS LOOKING AT AN ONLINE PARTS MICROFICHE AND IT SHOWED THE FILLER ON THE RIGHT OF THE BIKE. IT ISN'T IT'S THE SAME SIDE AS THE 675. SO A SECONDHAND RADIATOR MAY BE AN OPTION ALTHOUGH THE STREET TRIPLE ONE IS SLIGHTLY SMALLER

 

[saintmole]

maybe I should have read all the way through before posting like a noob..sorry about that..

seems to be a lot more involved than first thought..so to those that may have already takled this project..kudos

 

[Ruby Racing]

seems to be a lot more involved than first thought..so to those that may have already takled this project..kudos

Tidying up the wiring is the biggest ball ache. Once that's done and she actually fires up again :afraid: it should be plain sailing. Fingers still crossed.

 

[Ruby Racing]

Day 3

Day 3

Right. Lets be positive. Had a good think and I CAN do this. All the wires are colour coded so I should be OK. I need to cut a lot of the wires to the relays and fuse box, move them to their new home and then add in some wire to connect it all back up again. As long as I label every single wire I cut, at each cut end, I should be able to wire things up again. Luckily some of the wires go from relays to fuse box, so I wont need to cut them.

OK, wire cutters in hand and I'm ready to do the first cut. I really don't want to do this. Look stupid, this is why you bought the bike, you wanted a project, so cut the damn wire! There, it's cut, no turning back now. It's a scary feeling as I'm stepping into the unknown. Electrics to me are like magic, I haven't a clue. But I systematically label each wire before cutting, so I know exactly which wire connects with which wire. This will work. The job takes a long time for something so simple, so that's all I get done today. Time to lie down.

 

[bballman01]

:laugh: have a beer its christmas:cool2:

 

[Sentinel]

So the only reason you are having to extend the wires is because of the higher handle bar setup you're going to use, right?

I wonder if you used something like the LSL 1 1/2" risers you wouldn't have to have done it at all?

 

[Ruby Racing]

So the only reason you are having to extend the wires is because of the higher handle bar setup you're going to use, right?

I wonder if you used something like the LSL 1 1/2" risers you wouldn't have to have done it at all?

I don't like those bars, they are too low. As I mentioned at the start of this thread, I can't get on with a sports bike riding position on the road.

I think we covered the question about the wires when I answered your thread (see here: http://www.triumph675.net/forum/showthread.php?t=37446). But just to recap, the relays and fuse box need to be moved out of sight from the left side of the bike. To do a proper, tidy job, wires need to be cut. Trust me, if I could have avoided it, I most certainly would have.

Happy Christmas!

 

[Sentinel]

Merry Christmas to you too! :cool2: