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It's really hard to tell from that picture. It also depends on how many miles are on them. There are certain wear patterns you expect to see on low mileage cams that go away after after a while. If they have passed this point however and there are other signs of wear this would be due to oiling issues. I can't determine this from that phot and without mileage information.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
It looks like there might be some pitting on the lobes, but the picture really isint clear enough or zoomed in enough to tell
 
I think this is a bit of a crazy mod! If you are going to this trouble and expense I would rather spend a little time on the head, upping the compression and some mild flowing.
Then a little dyno time and you will get great results.

On the subject of the picture of the cams. The area to look for signs of wear and damage is on the journals where the bearings run not on the lobes.
 
Head work requires money and time since you have to remove the motor and pay a machine shop.

You can get these cams for under $100 install them and use an existing map and get an instant 10hp without changing the red line. This can all be done in just a colle hours. Also you see a boost to torque across the rpm range. For best results you want a full system but isn't necessary. I have about a thousand track miles on this motor so far. Runs like a champ.

I know you are questioning the durability of the rods and pistons but honeslt modern cast parts are very good and we're not spinning it taser or putting down higher numbers then many cast engines built as far back as the 80s.
 
I think this is a bit of a crazy mod! If you are going to this trouble and expense I would rather spend a little time on the head, upping the compression and some mild flowing.
Then a little dyno time and you will get great results.

.
I agree with this statement :)

For $350 or so, HordPower can do a comp valve job and deck the head all nice and what not. Probably gain back a bit of lost power from over the years, in addition to adding some. You gotta pull the motor anyway for the cams, so why not.

I also like the assurance of a new head gasket. I've had two of the go South over the years, wasn't pretty.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Yep... No need to pull the motor or head. I did mine when the valve adjustment was due so there was only about 45 minutes extra work. I got the cams,shims, and tuning done for less than what you quoted for head work which would still require a tune.

There is no way I would do head work and go back with the stock cams, at least not in a Street Triple.

BTW, it's been about 9 k miles and at least half a dozen track days since I did the swap. Everything still running great in tip top shape.
 
Does anyone have before and after dyno runs for this mod?

Attached is a map of my Street Triple & Daytona.

The red line is my 2007 Daytona with skimmed & gas flowed, full race system, race kit bell mouths, and a full race MWR filter. Bike started life as a genuine 96bhp bike so its a good healthy gain in power.

Green line is my Street Triple with full race system & MWR HE filter. On the track I can make the ST pull out of corners far better than the Daytona, its got great mid range and drive. The Daytona is all about top end and holding it longer which is no good on our heavily policed roads :-(
We know we can get more out of the ST with a Bazzaz unit or PCV to sort the fueling out (TuneECU kept falling over when we tried to map using it so we gave up) plus we can't run the bike in the race series with more than 105 or we will have to go into group A (unlimited).

Image

 
Here's my before and after. Keep in mind my before was pretty bad. When I put the cams in I found that both cams were advanced one tooth from the factory. I've seen a number of stock Street Triple dynos though and they always come in between 90 and 95hp. Also the ghetto dyno I was using did not have a tach pickup so you will have to use experience to fill in where rpms. The only downside to the cams is the 5k dip that the Daytona also has. Other then that it's strong across the board with no significant loss.
 

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Here is my bike "blue" an 09 Daytona with TOR tune and mufflers "green" and our '06 Daytona race bike with full leo system, 2 piece head gasket, and U4.4 gas among other small things in "red". You can see that my Street with Daytona cams is stronger in the mid range then all of them and much stronger across the rpm range then a relatively stock Daytona.

All my bike has going for it is a damaged Arrow 3:1 system that I got for a trade about $350 and a set of Daytona cams that I picked up for less then $100 and I have the SAI connected to the crank case vent to reduce pumping loss. So for $450 and about 4 hours of time including the exhaust installation this is what I have.
 

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Mine with Daytona cams and the horras map then tuned on the dyno is the 109 run. The dyno it was on is notoriously pessimistic but the bike has felt fantastic on the race track. I would have loved to race it last weekend but the cps failed sat morning on my way to tech.

oh squiggly line how I doth love how you make my tripple howl
 

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