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Awesome, Awesome project.

I was considering the possibility of adding a centrifugal supercharger to the D675, but I wondered where you could tap power from.

I have a Procharger centrifugal blower on my Mustang Cobra, and it makes a noise very similar to the engine whine on the D675.

Centrifugal blowers, make boost in direct proportion to engine RPM which is perfect for a high revving motorcycle engine. Unlike a roots or twin screw blower that makes peak boost at low RPM and holds it constant across the powerband, dropping off at higher RPM.

There was another guy who was doing a turbo build for his bike, but couldn't find higher flow injectors. But he found out that the bike takes a standard fuel pump similar to a subaru WRX, which is the same as lots of different cars, which can be easily upgraded to a higher flowing unit such as a Walbro 255 LPH pump.

Are you going to use an intercooler? Centrifugal blowers don't make quite as much heat as a turbo, so it's not as critical. But you could use meth injection instead. That's more easily packaged.

Anyways, can't wait to see more progress!

Homer
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Awesome, Awesome project.

I was considering the possibility of adding a centrifugal supercharger to the D675, but I wondered where you could tap power from.

I have a Procharger centrifugal blower on my Mustang Cobra, and it makes a noise very similar to the engine whine on the D675.

Centrifugal blowers, make boost in direct proportion to engine RPM which is perfect for a high revving motorcycle engine. Unlike a roots or twin screw blower that makes peak boost at low RPM and holds it constant across the powerband, dropping off at higher RPM.

There was another guy who was doing a turbo build for his bike, but couldn't find higher flow injectors. But he found out that the bike takes a standard fuel pump similar to a subaru WRX, which is the same as lots of different cars, which can be easily upgraded to a higher flowing unit such as a Walbro 255 LPH pump.

Are you going to use an intercooler? Centrifugal blowers don't make quite as much heat as a turbo, so it's not as critical. But you could use meth injection instead. That's more easily packaged.

Anyways, can't wait to see more progress!

Homer
Theres no room for an intercooler, the bike is to compact. If I didn't have to move the radiator forward about 2" then maybe. It'll still produce some heat but hopefully not to much . I am considering a water injection system, but I want to see how its gonna run without it first. If I do ill probably run water cuz its Free!:cheers: and it absorbs more heat than meth. I'm hoping to have the custom mounting plate for the Rotrex some time next week, so ill have some new pix up ASAP!
 
Theres no room for an intercooler, the bike is to compact. If I didn't have to move the radiator forward about 2" then maybe. It'll still produce some heat but hopefully not to much . I am considering a water injection system, but I want to see how its gonna run without it first. If I do ill probably run water cuz its Free!:cheers: and it absorbs more heat than meth. I'm hoping to have the custom mounting plate for the Rotrex some time next week, so ill have some new pix up ASAP!
Not to be a downer, but i'd be very doubtful if you can manage a reliable 180 hp without some significant cooling modifications. But i would love to see you prove me wrong. Awesome project BTW :thumbup:
 
Thanks for the suggestions!

who makes that Knock Detector and how much would it run me?
This isn't just knock detection, it is active knock control. The units are made by J&S Electronics. We have them made specifically for 3 and 4 cylinder bikes, and keep several on the shelf.

You will have to PM or email me for options and pricing.
 
Not to be a downer, but i'd be very doubtful if you can manage a reliable 180 hp without some significant cooling modifications. But i would love to see you prove me wrong. Awesome project BTW :thumbup:
I have a centri on my car that makes 450 HP to the wheels and it has a stock radiator. I know it's like comparing apples to oranges, but the only time it's gonna be in boost is when air is flowing over the radiator. It's not going to make any extra heat during normal riding.

However, they do make an add on radiator that fits below the stock rad in that triangle area.. On second thought, thats where the blower is.
 
The need for engine cooling is not as large as some would imagine. Yes, a good coolant mix will be required, but nothing special.

For instance, the Rotrex kits for the Rocket III use the stock radiator, and make considerably more power than stock. Some well over 300 hp - without an oil cooler.

Look at the radiator for the later Hayabusas. It isn't that much larger than the D675 unit. Yet is more than capable of handling considerably higher output levels.

The issue will be the temp of the intake charge -vs- the octane requirement.

Also realize that you will need to find a location to mount the drive fluid reservoir/cooler for the Rotrex unit. I have the dimensions and photos at the shop should you need them.

If you are going to add a drive pulley to the crankshaft, you will need to make sure you drill/tap the center of the crank perfectly centered. Then you will need an extension and pulley to extend out of the cover, and be well sealed.

All are issues you need to consider. I hope this helps.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I have a centri on my car that makes 450 HP to the wheels and it has a stock radiator. I know it's like comparing apples to oranges, but the only time it's gonna be in boost is when air is flowing over the radiator. It's not going to make any extra heat during normal riding.

However, they do make an add on radiator that fits below the stock rad in that triangle area.. On second thought, thats where the blower is.
Yeah i looked into that radiator theres no way it would fit.
I geared the bike to go 190mph so if heats an issue ill have to go a little faster LOL :goodvsevil:
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
The need for engine cooling is not as large as some would imagine. Yes, a good coolant mix will be required, but nothing special.

For instance, the Rotrex kits for the Rocket III use the stock radiator, and make considerably more power than stock. Some well over 300 hp - without an oil cooler.

Look at the radiator for the later Hayabusas. It isn't that much larger than the D675 unit. Yet is more than capable of handling considerably higher output levels.

The issue will be the temp of the intake charge -vs- the octane requirement.

Also realize that you will need to find a location to mount the drive fluid reservoir/cooler for the Rotrex unit. I have the dimensions and photos at the shop should you need them.

If you are going to add a drive pulley to the crankshaft, you will need to make sure you drill/tap the center of the crank perfectly centered. Then you will need an extension and pulley to extend out of the cover, and be well sealed.

All are issues you need to consider. I hope this helps.
If I ran water injection that should help with the intake charge considerably, the only issue with the Daytona is theres really not much room to mount a reservoir for the W.I.S , maybe under the rear seat next to my custom exhaust. The crank shaft comes from the factory already drilled and taped (M8) and I had a shaft made for the pulley. All im waiting for now is the billet side cover/Rotrex mount. I hope to have it running by the end of the month!
 
If I ran water injection that should help with the intake charge considerably, the only issue with the Daytona is theres really not much room to mount a reservoir for the W.I.S , maybe under the rear seat next to my custom exhaust. The crank shaft comes from the factory already drilled and taped (M8) and I had a shaft made for the pulley. All im waiting for now is the billet side cover/Rotrex mount. I hope to have it running by the end of the month!
You could repurposed the coolant overflow tank. Or fit a custom molded tank under the tail somewhere.
 
Bump.....WE DEMAND UPDATES!!!!
 
They are a lot easier to map than the turbo as you can do it straight off TPS with no need for a MAP sensor for boost control.

I fitted my Rotrex on the left side of the bike just above the front sprocket on one of my 1050 SP3 bikes.

I'm very close to doing a D675 turbo Aerocharger kit and I'm using a similar type of plenum/intercooler as the one fitted on Bling Bling my turbo Speed Triple, if you would like one of the intercoolers for your project let me know.

The fan kicks in at idle and turns of at 2000rpm and the cooler is very efficient.

Boosted bikes are great fun to ride if they are done properly either on the road or race track.
With mild boost you will have a very tractable motor with reliability, 5 PSI on STD comp and cam timing moved to reduce the overlap will open your eyes. Try that first before you go to big, fitting two head gaskets to lower the comp is not ideal and can set you backwards in performance as the squish is almost lost.

Keep up the good work. :cool2:

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