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1st to 2nd assistance

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2.8K views 11 replies 6 participants last post by  TwoWheeledWonder  
#1 ·
So i've gotten a couple opinions in person - but would like to the greater minds of triumph675.net to assist if possible.

1st to 2nd gear shifting normally is smooth without any issues (6-8k shift not rolling on throttle hard)..

But what I'm noticing is that when I'm in 1st and I start to roll on the throttle hard carrying the revs up to 10-11k and shifting into 2nd I normally end up shifting into neutral and the bike would just rev - in which case I throw up the revs and click it into 2nd afterwards.

It seems to take far more effort getting it into 2nd gear when I'm pressuring the bike 1st to 2nd. Even just a while ago I pretty much made sure I rolled off the throttle hard while shifting and still ended up in neutral.

Thoughts? I'm hoping this is nothing serious.
 
#3 ·
No - not preloading the shifter. I could try and see the result, but I'm not quite sure if that is the resolve.

Rode this morning, let motor warm up - took it up the road, no issues. I've also noticed this happens more at night (not that the sun going down has anything to do with it, lol) but at that point I've been riding for a great portion of the day, not sure if that helps with the diagnosis.
 
#4 ·
I don't know what bike you have, but you can install the racing dent on your bike. It is designed to stop false neutrals in a competition format.
http://www.pure-triumph.com/p-2090-triumph-daytona-675-wheel-detent-kit-a9618068.aspx

It is a quick install, but you will need to also buy a gasket for your clutch case. The job also requires the clutch service tool, as you need to remove the whole clutch basket.

I don't know how handy you are, but this job can be done at the dealer for a reasonable cost.

After the install you will never have that problem again, but finding neutral when you want it will take some time. It's a fantastic mod, and a good time to install a slipper clutch!
 
#5 ·
A lot of riders get hurried when the rpms start coming up fast and don't make a positive shift. A proper shift involves preloading the shifter this means to just apply a little pressure to the shifter first. Then pull in the clutch. As you pull in the clutch with pressure already on the shifter the shifter should start to move before the clutch is all the way in. In fact typically as soon as you let off the gas. Then and this is the important part. You hold the shifter in the direction of the shift until the power is fully re applied. You don't let off right away. The actual full engagement of the next happens as power is being applied typically. So if you let off after you feel the movement but before you apply power you aren't completing the shift. The clutch is actually optional on upshifts during this process.
 
#6 ·
@shouldnthave - seriously considering the purchase of that part - looks like a nice upgrade to put in the box. I'm handy-ish, lol.. For a job like this I would be seeking the assistance of someone. I have one of only two 675's in the Caribbean that I know of - so needless to say, there is no dealer anywhere close, dwl.

@Macbandit - this could very well be the issue as well. I normally find myself selecting second with a strong tap, but certainly don't stay on the shifter until the throttle is back on. Could you clarify the clutch being optional statement?


Another quick update as well - the clutch lever & shifter lever were adjusted over the weekend which as helped. The clutch lever engagement was very close to the grip - this has since been corrected and feels a lot better.

The quick-shifter kits are only used for full throttle shifts?
 
#7 ·
@shouldnthave - seriously considering the purchase of that part - looks like a nice upgrade to put in the box. I'm handy-ish, lol.. For a job like this I would be seeking the assistance of someone. I have one of only two 675's in the Caribbean that I know of - so needless to say, there is no dealer anywhere close, dwl.

The quick-shifter kits are only used for full throttle shifts?
I'm happy to give any help you might need if you decide to do it. Also, the QS can be used anytime you have positive throttle. EG: Consistent speed all the way to WOT, but not while decelerating. The QS is a fantastic mod.
 
#8 ·
Upshifts without pulling in the clutch can be done using method I mentioned except that when you back off the throttle you don't pull in the clutch you simply make the shift. If you already have the shifter preloaded it will start to move as soon as you back off the throttle anyways. A lot of people make shifts this way and it can be done safely but you have to make sure you complete the shift before being back on the power fully.
 
#9 ·
I also find myself occasionally catching a neutral but is definitely rider error on my part.

I have always been told that clutch-less up-shifting is bad (outside of the dirt world)...is this the case? Again, only by word of mouth but I was told that is a good way to throw 2nd gear in the tranny. Thoughts?
 
#10 ·
I also find myself occasionally catching a neutral but is definitely rider error on my part.

I have always been told that clutch-less up-shifting is bad (outside of the dirt world)...is this the case? Again, only by word of mouth but I was told that is a good way to throw 2nd gear in the tranny. Thoughts?
Racers have been up shifting, and down shifting clutch less for 50 years, maybe longer. However, the it requires an incredible skill learned over years. It's called "blipping the throttle" I'm sure a plethora of YouTube videos exist on the subject.

I was lucky enough to be taught by my father, but any old racer can give you pointers.

Also, check out the Video "twist of the wrist II". Keith Code has a section about blipping, and a wealth of knowledge on cornering skills too.

Good luck!

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#11 ·
As mentioned yes you can do it on the street. No I wouldn't try doing it going down through the gears and don't try to do it 1st to 2nd. With proper technique there is no reason it can't be done. Improper technique and/or laziness in the shift can cause gearbox damage with or without the clutch.