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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Please let me know what you guys think this is worth. Total price you would pay. Thanks!

2011 TRIUMPH DAYTONA 675 - Dealer Demo Bike - 1,931 miles

Looks pretty mint and comes with full warranty.

ARROW EXHAUST
DOUBLE BUBBLE WINDSCREEN
CARBON FIBER AIR DUCTS
CARBON FIBER REAR HUGGER
CARBON FIBER EXHAUST HEATSHIELD
TANK PAD
GEL SEAT
PAINTED REAR SEAT COWL
BILLET RESERVOIR
FACTORY DEMO
2 YEAR/UNLIMITED WARRANTY

Thanks!
 

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Prob around $9.5k OTD if it's had all required maintenance done. It's basically a used bike with a 2 year warranty. Whenever I demo a bike though I beat the shit out of it, so you gotta figure it wasn't broken in gently. Extra parts don't matter for shit on a used bike.
 

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Prob around $9.5k OTD if it's had all required maintenance done. It's basically a used bike with a 2 year warranty. Whenever I demo a bike though I beat the shit out of it, so you gotta figure it wasn't broken in gently. Extra parts don't matter for shit on a used bike.
+1

i redline the piss out of demo bikes, so i would be very cautious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I figured as much. Just wanted to make sure. So the safe bet Is just forgetting this one then I guess.
 

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I've had good luck with demo bikes.

They are discounted price wise, you don't have to take the time to break them in, you don't have to baby them, and they have a full warranty if anything does goes wrong.
 

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They are discounted price wise, you don't have to take the time to break them in, you don't have to baby them, and they have a full warranty if anything does goes wrong.
that is a great selling point right there. you will be getting all sorts of great additions that were installed at the dealership and they will all be guaranteed as such...
 

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I figured as much. Just wanted to make sure. So the safe bet Is just forgetting this one then I guess.
are you steealing it or buying it? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
was thinking of buying it but was just curious about its reliability. it is being sold at a triumph dealer with full 2 year warranty. They want more than the suggested 9.5k out the door tho.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey ziathunder how much have you typically paid under MSRP for a demo bike? How many miles? Any mods?
 

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I would be wary about demo bike for same reasons, burnouts, scary stuff like redine for 5 mins videos; Sick fuckers out there.
At the very least it's under 2 year warranty so if your saving a lot of money you can't get too worried about it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would be wary about demo bike for same reasons, burnouts, scary stuff like redine for 5 mins videos; Sick fuckers out there.
At the very least it's under 2 year warranty so if your saving a lot of money you can't get too worried about it.
exactly why the price point is so important to me. they want ~9600 + TTT....kinda too high i think.
 

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It is nothing more than a used 675. The extra CF pieces don't mean shit on a used bike, neither on ebay nor from a dealership.

But as far as "forgetting this one" because it might have been broken in hard...why?

I have bought something like 10-11 bikes brand new and ALL of them have hit redline before they had 200 miles on the odometer. Contrary to popular belief, a hard break-in does not hurt the bike.

My R1 had a VERY hard break-in and right now it has 8,000 miles on it...5,000 of which are track/race miles.

You know that EVERY engine has been to redline on a bench before it gets installed in the bike, right?

When all of the race teams buy new bikes every year, do you think they ride them around on the street at 2-4k RPM for 600 miles? No.

I wouldnt hesitate to buy the bike if the money was right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i appreciate your reply. makes total sense.

how much is a 2000 mile 2001 worth then? how much would you pay?

I updated the list...it has a few more parts that I noticed in the pics.
 

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I've had good luck with demo bikes.
Was your SE a demo?

It is nothing more than a used 675. The extra CF pieces don't mean shit on a used bike, neither on ebay nor from a dealership.

But as far as "forgetting this one" because it might have been broken in hard...why?

I have bought something like 10-11 bikes brand new and ALL of them have hit redline before they had 200 miles on the odometer. Contrary to popular belief, a hard break-in does not hurt the bike.

My R1 had a VERY hard break-in and right now it has 8,000 miles on it...5,000 of which are track/race miles.

You know that EVERY engine has been to redline on a bench before it gets installed in the bike, right?

When all of the race teams buy new bikes every year, do you think they ride them around on the street at 2-4k RPM for 600 miles? No.
I agree somewhat, but don't tell me you broke your R1 in with the oil from the factory? I'm OK with a hard break-in as long as it's done right, as in change the shit with flakes right away to clean stuff, etc, and I know that dealership didn't change the oil in their demo right away. Race engines aren't broken in with flaky dino oil, not to mention they usually last a season at most.
 

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I agree somewhat, but don't tell me you broke your R1 in with the oil from the factory? I'm OK with a hard break-in as long as it's done right, as in change the shit with flakes right away to clean stuff, etc, and I know that dealership didn't change the oil in their demo right away. Race engines aren't broken in with flaky dino oil, not to mention they usually last a season at most.
I have my own break in method and i complete it in 1 day. It varies depending on the RPM's the engine is good for (size of bike) but using a 14k RPM as an example, mine would look like this....

I change it as soon as i get home from the dealership and replace with fresh dyno oil (Rotella).

I vary RPM's up and down and hit 6k RPM as i hit 50 miles on the odometer...then come home and change oil and filter.

Then i vary RPM's for another 50 miles and hit 10k on the odometer...then come home an change oil and filter.

Then i vary RPM's for another 100 miles and hit the rev limiter as i hit 200 miles on the odometer...then i change oil and filter and go with full synthetic AMSOIL.

From them on, i ride it how i choose (which basically means, "like i stole it").

Like i said, i have done this on 10-11 new bikes and have never had a problem with any of them. I even broke in my Triumph Sprint like this and it is sitting at around 20k miles (i use it for cross country trips) with no problems whatsoever.
 

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And race engines last much longer than a season. It all depends on the extent of the build.

There are MANY race bikes with 15-20k miles on the stock motor. The more aggressive the build, the more often it will have to be refreshed.
 

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I have my own break in method and i complete it in 1 day. It varies depending on the RPM's the engine is good for (size of bike) but using a 14k RPM as an example, mine would look like this....
I change it as soon as i get home from the dealership and replace with fresh dyno oil (Rotella).
I vary RPM's up and down and hit 6k RPM as i hit 50 miles on the odometer...then come home and change oil and filter.
Then i vary RPM's for another 50 miles and hit 10k on the odometer...then come home an change oil and filter.
Then i vary RPM's for another 100 miles and hit the rev limiter as i hit 200 miles on the odometer...then i change oil and filter and go with full synthetic AMSOIL.
From them on, i ride it how i choose (which basically means, "like i stole it").
Like i said, i have done this on 10-11 new bikes and have never had a problem with any of them. I even broke in my Triumph Sprint like this and it is sitting at around 20k miles (i use it for cross country trips) with no problems whatsoever.
See, that sounds great, as if you knew what you were doing and you were being methodical about it. I would probably buy a bike from you. But all break-in method arguments aside, do you really think the dealership was that meticulous about their demo? Do you think customers test riding were that meticulous? I don't. I wouldn't trust it, which is why I wouldn't pay (comparatively) very much money for it. At $9.5k I would feel I got a good enough deal to not feel so bad about buying a new engine or getting it replaced under warranty when the original grenades.
 

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OMG.... Are we really rehashing the way to break in a bike in this poor guys thread?

Just because the MSRP is 9.6K plus TTL, doesn't mean you can't barter with them. Ran a search on KBB and retail for a 2010 675 was 8.5K. Avg retail on a 2010 675 fronm NADA (Which is what most insurance companies use) is 9K. Try to barter with them and bring up all the valid points that have been made in this thread about it being a demo bike.

PS, I did a Dyno Break in on day 1 and changed the oil at 500 mi service with regular interval oil changes after that and bike has ran like a champ!!! 114HP and 51 ft lbs of tq and that was all stock.
 

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See, that sounds great, as if you knew what you were doing and you were being methodical about it. I would probably buy a bike from you. But all break-in method arguments aside, do you really think the dealership was that meticulous about their demo? Do you think customers test riding were that meticulous? I don't. I wouldn't trust it, which is why I wouldn't pay (comparatively) very much money for it. At $9.5k I would feel I got a good enough deal to not feel so bad about buying a new engine or getting it replaced under warranty when the original grenades.
No, i seriously doubt the dealership was so methodical about it. But with that being said, i doubt the bike is hurt either.

I wouldnt hesitate to buy it. But then again, if i bought it, i would turn it into a race bike and would rebuild the motor anyway.
 
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