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Wow nice
T-Drive rotors and are those GP4 calipers?
Very nice.
Question if your bike has abs will the pulser ring for on these rotors? I’m considering either these or the supersport rotors for my 14D675R.
What MC are you using?
Yes, T-Drive rotors and GP4-RX calipers with Z04 pads.
If you make sure to order the correct rotor for your model bike , then yes the ABS ring will fit. The T-Drives are overkill and weigh a fair bit more.
I am using a Brembo CNC Billet Radial Master Cylinder 19x18. The feel at the lever is like nothing I have ever experienced. Some people say it's a lot of money for a master cylinder but then they will happily spend 3-4 grand on an exhaust or suspension... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder XR01171
 

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Yes, T-Drive rotors and GP4-RX calipers with Z04 pads.
If you make sure to order the correct rotor for your model bike , then yes the ABS ring will fit. The T-Drives are overkill and weigh a fair bit more.
I am using a Brembo CNC Billet Radial Master Cylinder 19x18. The feel at the lever is like nothing I have ever experienced. Some people say it's a lot of money for a master cylinder but then they will happily spend 3-4 grand on an exhaust or suspension... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder XR01171
Awesome
You are absolutely right about the expenses.
Could not agree more

I am currently contemplating making an upgrade to the 19RCS CorsaCorta with brembo supersport rotors because I had a master cylinder failure and leak. Thank god I wasn’t riding when I noticed it. Stock brakes on tona were great to begin with and I had no complaints.

Nothing more important than brakes and suspension.


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I am currently contemplating making an upgrade to the 19RCS CorsaCorta with brembo supersport rotors because I had a master cylinder failure and leak. Thank god I wasn’t riding when I noticed it. Stock brakes on tona were great to begin with and I had no complaints.
Nothing more important than brakes and suspension.
Here you go... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder 110C74010
or here... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder RCS19CCPKB
I've tried the 19RCS before(although not the Corsa Corta) and personally I didn't like the feel. I highly recommend that if you can stretch your budget to get the CNC Billet master cylinder. It seriously is leaps and bounds ahead of RCS and you will not regret it. It's one step away from what they use in MotoGP... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder XA7G7G0
 

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Here you go... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder 110C74010
or here... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder RCS19CCPKB
I've tried the 19RCS before(although not the Corsa Corta) and personally I didn't like the feel. I highly recommend that if you can stretch your budget to get the CNC Billet master cylinder. It seriously is leaps and bounds ahead of RCS and you will not regret it. It's one step away from what they use in MotoGP... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder XA7G7G0
That would be fantastic. But Im liking the adjustability on the Corsa Corta
And also the price of that master alone would cover the price of the whole upgrade including the RCS and rotors with brake pads so it’s a bit of an overkill for me to be honest.


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That would be fantastic. But Im liking the adjustability on the Corsa Corta
And also the price of that master alone would cover the price of the whole upgrade including the RCS and rotors with brake pads so it’s a bit of an overkill for me to be honest.
Haha....I wasn't recommending you get the MotoGP one but the one I linked in my first reply. It's still CNC billet and less than 200 Euro more than the Corsa Corta. This one... Brembo Radial Brake Master Cylinder XR01171
 

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I had some IMA Triple clamps fitted today. I think they look sexy. As a bonus I was still able to use the top mount steering damper I had fitted before. It did require a bit of hand profiling and a spacer because of the extra thickness of the IMA top clamp.
Hood Automotive tire Light Automotive lighting Yellow


Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Fuel tank Automotive lighting
 

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Uh oh Far Canal, your front end is actually fancier than mine now.

Ramnakhle, I put Stylema calipers on my bike, along with direct-to-caliper brake lines, Z04 pads, T-drives and a 17 RCS Corsa Corta. It's a slightly more budget-friendly version of Far Canal's setup, but it still doesn't take much to make the rear hop into heavy braking zones. Stylemas have smaller 30mm pistons so the 17 is necessary (instead of the 19). I agree the original RCS didn't feel great.
 

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Uh oh Far Canal, your front end is actually fancier than mine now.

Ramnakhle, I put Stylema calipers on my bike, along with direct-to-caliper brake lines, Z04 pads, T-drives and a 17 RCS Corsa Corta. It's a slightly more budget-friendly version of Far Canal's setup, but it still doesn't take much to make the rear hop into heavy braking zones. Stylemas have smaller 30mm pistons so the 17 is necessary (instead of the 19). I agree the original RCS didn't feel great.
Thanks for the input.
I have looked into / dreamt of all of these combinations already
They sound amazing but I can’t justify the cost of these on a street / canyon carving bike. No track riding whatsoever. Also need to keep ABS for our shitty roads with all kinds of crappy surprises.

I’m only getting the CorsaCorta because my master cylinder seems to have tried to kill me (still can’t be sure but taking no chances). And it’s only a couple hundred more than the stock OEM so it makes sense.
Might consider a couple of rotors like I said either supersports or TDrives a few months down the line.


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Might consider a couple of rotors like I said either supersports or TDrives a few months down the line.
T-drives for the street are complete overkill. Brembo's supersport discs AKA Serie Oro would be a significant upgrade for a smaller investment.
 

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Uh oh Far Canal, your front end is actually fancier than mine now.

Ramnakhle, I put Stylema calipers on my bike, along with direct-to-caliper brake lines, Z04 pads, T-drives and a 17 RCS Corsa Corta. It's a slightly more budget-friendly version of Far Canal's setup, but it still doesn't take much to make the rear hop into heavy braking zones. Stylemas have smaller 30mm pistons so the 17 is necessary (instead of the 19). I agree the original RCS didn't feel great.
Thanks for the input.
I have looked into / dreamt of all of these combinations already
They sound amazing but I can’t justify the cost of these on a street / canyon carving bike. No track riding whatsoever. Also need to keep ABS for our shitty roads with all kinds of crappy surprises.

I’m only getting the CorsaCorta because my master cylinder seems to have tried to kill me (still can’t be sure but taking no chances). And it’s only a couple hundred more than the stock OEM so it makes sense.
Might consider a couple of rotors like I said either supersports or TDrives a few months down the line.


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Replaced fork oil and seals



Look at that old oil! 40,000km and 8 years old!


Back together!




But also….

Finally installed the Brembo 19 RCS CorsaCorta master cylinder.
What a beauty!
Haven’t test ridden it yet. Will post impressions soon.



A few key points on the install that might help people who are considering this mod ON A GEN3 D675R

1 - The MC comes with a double line banjo bolt not compatible with our bikes.
But you can use the stock banjo fitting (same orientation as stock) and banjo bolt (no problem with thread pitch or length). One crush washer either side of the banjo fitting and tighten to 25Nm. Take care and hold the line in place while tightening because it will turn with the bolt and hit the fork. An assistant can help out with that. You will need to replace the crush washers if you need to loosen to adjust so do it right first time around!

2- you can use the stock fluid reservoir and bracket. No need to get the kit from Brembo. You will need to shorten the hose by about 1 cm or so. Not a big deal. Do that on the master cylinder side and it will be a perfectly straight fit from reservoir to MC.

3- You will need to lengthen the MC brake light switch wires and make a connector to connect in place of the stock switch. An easy job and pretty standard connector.

4- bleed bleed and bleed some more. Lots of air to take out! Bleed ABS as well.

Hope this answers a few questions because these were weighing heavily on my mind before I installed.
Turned out perfect!


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Your bike is so seriously official…I love the way you built it with top shelf components.
Is it a track bike or double duty bike?
Appreciate the compliments. It's my old race bike and has been a dedicated track bike for nearly 10 years. A lot of the mods I couldn't do while it was still a race bike because of the regulations. More to come soon...;)
 

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Appreciate the compliments. It's my old race bike and has been a dedicated track bike for nearly 10 years. A lot of the mods I couldn't do while it was still a race bike because of the regulations. More to come soon...;)
Credit where it’s due! That makes sense..,you’d be running in superbike with all those goodies on that bike.


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As I was finishing up washing and drying my 2010 Daytona 675 today, I noticed the yolk nut was loose.

Can someone please help me with the tq specs and socket size so I can retighten it?

Is it 40 Nm and 38mm socket? Does the front end have to be off the ground when I retorque it?

Thanks
 

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As I was finishing up washing and drying my 2010 Daytona 675 today, I noticed the yolk nut was loose.

Can someone please help me with the tq specs and socket size so I can retighten it?

Is it 40 Nm and 38mm socket? Does the front end have to be off the ground when I retorque it?

Thanks
You are confusing the top yoke (not yolk) nut and the steering stem adjuster and lock nuts.

Top yoke nut is 38 mm and needs to be torqued to 90Nm. If that’s the one that’s loose then just torque to spec and you’re good to go regardless of where the front wheel is.

The other two nuts need more work and a special socket to readjust.
Lift and support the front of the motorcycle.
Remove the top yoke nut and ease the yoke off the forks. Then remove the lock nut and the washer. Loosen but don’t remove the adjuster nut, then tighten to 40Nm. Loosen it again and re-torque to 15Nm. Refit the washer and lock nut. Tighten the lock nut to 40Nm while holding the adjuster nut in place with a C-spanner and make sure it stays put.


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You are confusing the top yoke (not yolk) nut and the steering stem adjuster and lock nuts.

Top yoke nut is 38 mm and needs to be torqued to 90Nm. If that’s the one that’s loose then just torque to spec and you’re good to go regardless of where the front wheel is.

The other two nuts need more work and a special socket to readjust.
Lift and support the front of the motorcycle.
Remove the top yoke nut and ease the yoke off the forks. Then remove the lock nut and the washer. Loosen but don’t remove the adjuster nut, then tighten to 40Nm. Loosen it again and re-torque to 15Nm. Refit the washer and lock nut. Tighten the lock nut to 40Nm while holding the adjuster nut in place with a C-spanner and make sure it stays put.


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Thanks for the good news, as I don't have a front stand yet!

Correct, it's the top yoke nut, now all I have to find myself a 38mm or 1½" socket to get this torqued down properly.

Edit: Put some electrical tape on the yoke nut, and used a 1½" socket to torque it down to 90Nm. Job done!
 
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