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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I greased my exup valve, new cable assembly.
Seemed problem was dealt with, but 2 days later, exhaust is poping/crackling if you wanna call it down from high revs; which is a sign for me that the exup is sticking and the CEL is gonna show up soon.
Took off the cover but the valve seems fine/greased movement through 360 degrees/
Could it be anything else? I've heard about the ECU studying your open closed throttle habits and applying them?
I would remove the fucker, but bike has a lot of warranty left on it, dealer is triumph and wont do it.

Bike idles like shit whenever the exup sticks. Dunno if this is limp home (No CEL nessacerily) or just shitty stuck exup mode.

Any help Thx
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
k, looking up some threads on that now.
I have a BMC/arrow pipe combo (default arrow map) which may or may not be complicating this issue.
Some post said the arrow tune/map ditches this SAI, but i dont know enough about the system yet.
It helps to know there are other issues at play, thx 4 reply
 

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Many people (alot of dealers included) think the Arrow map is made for Arrow slipons. It IS NOT. The Arrow map is for the arrow full race system with headers and all. The TOR map is the correct map for basically any slip-on where the stock Catalytic converter and Exup still exist.

If you are running the Arrow map your bike is running too rich and you're combusting that excess fuel as it hits the SAI in your headers... That means deceleration popping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Many people (alot of dealers included) think the Arrow map is made for Arrow slipons. It IS NOT. The Arrow map is for the arrow full race system with headers and all. The TOR map is the correct map for basically any slip-on where the stock Catalytic converter and Exup still exist.

If you are running the Arrow map your bike is running too rich and you're combusting that excess fuel as it hits the SAI in your headers... That means deceleration popping.
I know the 09 ecu at stock has provsisons in it for most of it's race stuff. When I said default arrow map, I think i assumed there was some sort of code to let the bike know it was running the arrow can.
If this is not the case, I doubt that a full arrow system map was loaded.

The bike has been plugged in a few times since purchase, but I honestly dont know if the ecu can tell you the bike is running rich, or is mismapped.
*Hopefully I can rule this problem out though through a third party this week.

If anyone is running a BMC race filter, arrow can or both, any experience you have with said issues would obviously be helpful, cheers
 

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I have the full Arrow sys and an aftermarket air filter. I have the full Arrow tune installed and it did at 1st crackle and pop on decel, just like you are experiencing. I have not had a chance yet to dyno tune but removing the secondary air injection sys and blocking it off has stopped the decel popping.

But there is a Arrow slip on only map, its not the TOR map. Your dealer can tell you which one you have installed and they can change it for you. If you have a Tuneboy you can change it your self. Another program everyone is using now, which is free, is Tune ECU. Lots of info on it on here somewhere.
 

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I know the 09 ecu at stock has provsisons in it for most of it's race stuff. When I said default arrow map, I think i assumed there was some sort of code to let the bike know it was running the arrow can.
If this is not the case, I doubt that a full arrow system map was loaded.

The bike has been plugged in a few times since purchase, but I honestly dont know if the ecu can tell you the bike is running rich, or is mismapped.
*Hopefully I can rule this problem out though through a third party this week.

If anyone is running a BMC race filter, arrow can or both, any experience you have with said issues would obviously be helpful, cheers
Here's the deal. There are not 'codes' to tell the ECU what can you have. You literally overwrite the fueling tables with the correct map when installing a new one. Triumph only publishes three maps for the 09+ bikes with the stock ECU: Stock Map; TOR map (slip-on); and Arrow FULL system map.

Like I said, most people know that the slip-on Arrow requires the TOR tune. There have been enough stories of people on here figuring out that their dealer had loaded the Arrow FULL tune when installing a slip-on that it's entirely worth mentioning. There is no Arrow Slip-on map - only the TOR map (from Triumph at least).

As far as running rich goes, the bike does have an O2 sensor and can detect incorrect A/F ratios but ONLY at low throttle openings. So if you're running on it anything over cruising speed, then it switches to a map that is based solely on TPS data and the MAP sensor and ignores the A/F trim data. So that's no help anyway.

I have the full Arrow sys and an aftermarket air filter. I have the full Arrow tune installed and it did at 1st crackle and pop on decel, just like you are experiencing. I have not had a chance yet to dyno tune but removing the secondary air injection sys and blocking it off has stopped the decel popping.

But there is a Arrow slip on only map, its not the TOR map. Your dealer can tell you which one you have installed and they can change it for you. If you have a Tuneboy you can change it your self. Another program everyone is using now, which is free, is Tune ECU. Lots of info on it on here somewhere.
The FULL Arrow map is by definition a little rich. It's to help with the excessive heat of a race engine by overfueling to give it a little extra cooling in the cylinder. So, BY DESIGN, it is rich. When you add in the SAI you're going to get popping until you actually block the plates off. Coincidentally, the Arrow FULL map has already told the ECU to ignore the SAI system - it's assumed that you block them off with that map.

There IS NO Arrow specific 'Slip on map', only the TOR map. If you think otherwise you're misinformed.

sassafras
 

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If anyone is running a BMC race filter, arrow can or both, any experience you have with said issues would obviously be helpful, cheers
+ to what sassafras says regarding the correct tune and what the ECU is doing.

If exhaust crackling is all you're worried about get a 50 cent bung from supa cheap and block the hose between the air box and the SAI solenoid,
the hose comes off underneath the LHS of the airfilterbox.

If the exhaust valve is really playing up why not disconnect the actuator cables and wire the valve in the open position.
Read up on the TuneECU threads, get a $20 cable and load the TOR tune for your VIN. (Save the oem map first ) disable the SAI and the EXBV
In case of warranty claims reload the oem map via TuneECU and replace the actuator cables, the dealer won't know any different.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
You Certainly seem like you know what your talking about, and even without a definitive answer it still makes troubleshooting a lot easier.
I was not even aware their is a SAI, or that a rich mixture is what causes backfiring, so you see how this is helps me

Outside of a powerpoint presentation, for me the steps will be
1. Find out what map is running.
2. get the right one on there, if necessary.
3. rule out the exup motor once and for all.
4. troubleshoot the "SAI system" and that the
cause of the crackling for w/e reason could be the bike running lean

thx again :thumbup:
will update you when she is running well.
 

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I'm not the biggest tech head but i always thought that exhaust pops on deceleration was completly normal! if you are fueling at high revs and then come off the throttle the fuel goes from a high rate of delivery to a lower one leaving a small amount of unburnt fuel in the cylinder which passes through the exhaust valve into the exhaust where the heat from the exhaust and air mixture causes it to pop. The louder can probably just amplifies what would be happening anyway so it sounds louder especially with no baffle and a high flow filter. This is why on certain bikes its easier to get flames pop from the exhaust simply by reving and coming of the throttle repetetively.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm not the biggest tech head but i always thought that exhaust pops on deceleration was completly normal! if you are fueling at high revs and then come off the throttle the fuel goes from a high rate of delivery to a lower one leaving a small amount of unburnt fuel in the cylinder which passes through the exhaust valve into the exhaust where the heat from the exhaust and air mixture causes it to pop. The louder can probably just amplifies what would be happening anyway so it sounds louder especially with no baffle and a high flow filter. This is why on certain bikes its easier to get flames pop from the exhaust simply by reving and coming of the throttle repetetively.
I should mention I love a bit of pop ever now and then under hard use. And you can kind ofcontrol it with an open/closed exchaust on windown when the bike is healthy but this is heavy duty stuff 'boom' boom boom stuff that at it's worst contributes to a horribly rough idle and uneven engine deceleration =(
 

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Diagnostically, you're on the right path I think. The fact that it's idling rough leads me to believe that either you've got the wrong map loaded or it could potentially be the EXUP or even the catalytic converter that has melted. If you've just fixed the EXUP that's not likely to be it, but if you race the bike and ran it with the stock map for awhile with the slip-on, it's quite possible your cat melted.

As you said, some deceleration popping is normal--especially with a slip-on can that allows for more free flow of exhaust gases. Some of that popping isn't unspent fuel but is actually sort of a mini sonic-boom (for lack of a better analogy) where the exhaust pulses sort of overlap each other. Most people who have ridden properly tuned sport bikes know what that exhaust popping and what not should sound like.

If you're only using the bike on the track, you can disable the SAI like Baba Zenetti suggested, but you will fail emissions tests (Does Australia do emissions tests?) if it's a street bike.
 

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I'm not the biggest tech head but i always thought that exhaust pops on deceleration was completly normal! if you are fueling at high revs and then come off the throttle the fuel goes from a high rate of delivery to a lower one leaving a small amount of unburnt fuel in the cylinder which passes through the exhaust valve into the exhaust where the heat from the exhaust and air mixture causes it to pop. The louder can probably just amplifies what would be happening anyway so it sounds louder especially with no baffle and a high flow filter. This is why on certain bikes its easier to get flames pop from the exhaust simply by reving and coming of the throttle repetetively.
The ecu can add fuel on the over run, apparently it aids with engine cooling via keeping EGT down.

You can also map it not to add fuel on the over run in which case it won't pop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Diagnostically, you're on the right path I think. The fact that it's idling rough leads me to believe that either you've got the wrong map loaded or it could potentially be the EXUP or even the catalytic converter that has melted. If you've just fixed the EXUP that's not likely to be it, but if you race the bike and ran it with the stock map for awhile with the slip-on, it's quite possible your cat melted.

As you said, some deceleration popping is normal--especially with a slip-on can that allows for more free flow of exhaust gases. Some of that popping isn't unspent fuel but is actually sort of a mini sonic-boom (for lack of a better analogy) where the exhaust pulses sort of overlap each other. Most people who have ridden properly tuned sport bikes know what that exhaust popping and what not should sound like.

If you're only using the bike on the track, you can disable the SAI like Baba Zenetti suggested, but you will fail emissions tests (Does Australia do emissions tests?) if it's a street bike.
I dug up this thread
http://www.triumph675.net/forum/archive/index.php/t-41443.html
which seems to collaberate with most ofwhat you said.
That there is a full arrrow race tune, and there is a tune for the arrow can/or basically any aftermarket exhaust and they are very different. i think they concluded you can run the default map with the arrrow can or the one below.
Knowing the dealer i got it off I would bet it is running the default tune so maybe this one can make some difference.

20281
Aftermarket exhaust
From VIN 381275
95 RON (85 RON MON) fue

I also noticed the same guy "Mikers" mentioned not to confuse overrun grumbling with misfire popping, so im gonna take another look at the exup (as sure as I am it was working).

Even if this is not the right "code/map" number, a certain mechanic should know which one is, so I think I'll take that route this/next week.
Cheers
 
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