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The shims don't wear. Just determine which shims need to be exchanged out for whatever size and exchange them with your local bike shop.

Kits are stupidly expensive if you don't adjust valves on a regular basis.
 

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When I adjusted my valve clearances I just bought the two shims I needed from my local dealer for like $10 total. Don't know about getting a kit though, sorry.
 

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I have not done it on my 675, but I did the job 3 times on my TT600. When I looked for kits, like said earlier, they were pretty expensive. You are going to be getting a lot of shims you just don't need.

I created a chart where I recorded the clearance and the thickness of the shim for each valve.

I then looked at each valve and determined the range of shims needed to make the valve in spec. I did this even if it was in spec. It was done in MS Excel, so it happened automatically.

The reason I calculated the range of shims that would make each valve in spec, even if it already was in spec was so I could shuffle the shims around. For instance, Even though I had 4 valves that I wanted to change the clearance on, moving shims from this one to that one, I ended up only needing to purchase ONE shim from my dealer. So, lets say valve A was in spec, but towards one end of the range, by putting in a shim from valve B into that location, it was now closer to the middle of the range, and the shim from Valve A now would make Valve B in spec.

Damn... I thing I might have just gotten to wordy and confused my message...

I hope that was clear... I might still have my spreadsheet that I can upload for people to use. It was formulated for a 4 Cylinder engine, but that is easy to fix.
 

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I have not done it on my 675, but I did the job 3 times on my TT600. When I looked for kits, like said earlier, they were pretty expensive. You are going to be getting a lot of shims you just don't need.

I created a chart where I recorded the clearance and the thickness of the shim for each valve.

I then looked at each valve and determined the range of shims needed to make the valve in spec. I did this even if it was in spec. It was done in MS Excel, so it happened automatically.

The reason I calculated the range of shims that would make each valve in spec, even if it already was in spec was so I could shuffle the shims around. For instance, Even though I had 4 valves that I wanted to change the clearance on, moving shims from this one to that one, I ended up only needing to purchase ONE shim from my dealer. So, lets say valve A was in spec, but towards one end of the range, by putting in a shim from valve B into that location, it was now closer to the middle of the range, and the shim from Valve A now would make Valve B in spec.

Damn... I thing I might have just gotten to wordy and confused my message...

I hope that was clear... I might still have my spreadsheet that I can upload for people to use. It was formulated for a 4 Cylinder engine, but that is easy to fix.
Definately provide your spreadsheet...that can come in good use for my next valve check/adjustment...(in the next 12,000 miles).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
yeah i can't even find the kit but i'm sure it is expensive. I'll take apart the bike and see what I need. I know my exhaust valves are to tight. I guess i'll be going on a trip to the stealership.
 

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yeah i can't even find the kit but i'm sure it is expensive. I'll take apart the bike and see what I need. I know my exhaust valves are to tight. I guess i'll be going on a trip to the stealership.
I believe the shims are 25mm. You'll have to get them through K&L Supply. However, trading them out at the dealership shouldn't cost you anything, but, time. Of course, they'll probably make you purchase them outright, even though they just exchange them in the service dept.

Most places just trade you straight across.http://www.hotcamsinc.com/

This company sells shim kits if you wanna spend the money.
I don't believe Hot Cams offers the correct size.
 

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Don't you hate it when you offer some service but cannot actually follow through? :biggrinjester:

I could not locate the spreadsheet I used on my TT600. I think it might be on the old laptop. Anyways, I was bored so I created a new one. The site will not accept an Excel format file, so I ZIP'd it.

I have protected the sheet, so you do not accidently screw up portions you should not change. I did not password protect the sheet, though. So, if you want to modify it in some way, <TOOLS>, <PROTECTION>, <UNPROTECT> will allow you to unprotect the sheet and then you can screw it up to you hearts content. I protect sheets like this frequently, just to prevent me from fat-fingering some cell I did not intend to, and then end up with a screwed up sheet that I cannot figure out how to restore.

The section in the middle highlighted yellow is the only portion you should need to mess with. You just need to enter the clearance you measured and the thickness of the shim for each valve in it's appropriate yellow block. The spreadsheet will turn that cell <RED> if it is not within the correct range.

It will also automatically calculate a thickest and thinnest shim that would make that valve in spec. However, according to the service manual, the shims are only available in 0.025mm increments. So, the # reported on the spread sheet may not actually be an available shim. You will just need to get an available shim that falls between the two numbers. If you get shims from some other source than Triumph, they might be available in increments OTHER than 0.025mm. Because of this possibility, I did not have the spread sheet limit the upper and lower limits to #'s that would work out to the 0.025mm increments mentioned in the manual.

Now, I did do an idiot check of my math, but I could have messed somethign up. So, please... if you see a problem with it, email me or post a message here and I will try to fix it. If anyone out there has an idea for an improvement, feel free to change the sheet, but please share your idea for the rest of us.

*Edit: See follow on message for updated spread sheet that accounts for all 12 valves...
 

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I could not locate the spreadsheet I used on my TT600. I think it might be on the old laptop. Anyways, I was bored so I created a new one. The site will not accept an Excel format file, so I ZIP'd it.
That worksheet is really cool. It definitely makes sense.
 

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My dealership was stupidly expensive. about $10 per shim. Ie... this is the reason why the Charlotte, NC dealership sucks. I called 5 other dealers and non of them stocked the stupid shims. We could make a swap forum for shims. Ie, you drop your shim in the mail to me and I'll mail you the size I have that you need. Total cost to each person... $.43.
 

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My dealership was stupidly expensive. about $10 per shim. Ie... this is the reason why the Charlotte, NC dealership sucks. I called 5 other dealers and non of them stocked the stupid shims. We could make a swap forum for shims. Ie, you drop your shim in the mail to me and I'll mail you the size I have that you need. Total cost to each person... $.43.
Great idea:

I think the how to needs pictures added on how to replace shims. I can only go so far as to measure and mine all fell within spec.
 

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My dealership was stupidly expensive. about $10 per shim. Ie... this is the reason why the Charlotte, NC dealership sucks. I called 5 other dealers and non of them stocked the stupid shims. We could make a swap forum for shims. Ie, you drop your shim in the mail to me and I'll mail you the size I have that you need. Total cost to each person... $.43.
How many shims did you need? There is a total of 12. I would assume you would only need 1 or 2. It's quite a bit of work to get to the shims, I wouldn't let $10 get in the way of putting it all back together and being able to ride again.

Hmmm... I just realized I think I forgot to put 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder on my spreadsheet.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
How many shims did you need? There is a total of 12. I would assume you would only need 1 or 2. It's quite a bit of work to get to the shims, I wouldn't let $10 get in the way of putting it all back together and being able to ride again.

Hmmm... I just realized I think I forgot to put 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder on my spreadsheet.
yeah i noticed that when i started pluging in the numbers. How am I supposed to know the shim thickness. DO need to know that?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Mine came in at

Valve intake
1. .127
2. .127
3. .152
4. .127
5. .127
6. .105

Exhaust Valves

1. .254
2. .254
3. .229
4. .203
5. .229
6. .229

All my exhaust valves are really tight. My intake valves are almost out of spec. I might as well replace them.

Maybe one of you can help me. What size shims should I get for the valves. I'm new at doing the shim adjustments.
 

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Updated spread sheet for 12 valves, not 6

OK, I updated the spread sheet to reflect the fact we have 4 valves per cylinder. :gah:

* EDIT * Newer sheet posted on page 4.
 

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How am I supposed to know the shim thickness. DO need to know that?
To measure the thickness of the shims, you need to pull the cams off. Then, remove the cam buckets (little cans under each cam lobe) and under the cam bucket, or stuck on top of the valve stem, will be the shim. Take a micrometer, and measure the thickness. The ones on my TT600 had a # printed on them that was supposed to identify the thickness of the shim. I trust my micrometer better.

For a normal valve check job, you will never need to figure out the size of the shim... cause all your valves are in spec. If you are unlucky, and have one or two out of spec, that is when you start taking about more of the motor. If you ever find your self pulling off the cam for replacing one shim, go ahead and pull the other shims just so you have the measurement in the future. Plus if you know the thickness of all your shims, then that will possibly allow you to play "musical shims" and move them around and make them all in spec without needing to buy new ones.
 
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