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TuneECU race ecu

4103 Views 22 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Motographer, 
C
2012 675R. It seems to connect, but it can't talk with the ECU. TuneECU should work with the race kit ECU, right? I'm trying to turn off the check engine light for the exhaust valve.

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MacBandit
I've never hear if it could. However I thought the Triumph TRACS software was free.
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MacBandit said:
I've never hear if it could. However I thought the Triumph TRACS software was free.
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Not as far as I can tell. Anyone got a link?
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-LG-
It should communicate with TnueECU. Try switching the bike off and on and restarting TuneECU. Also you shouldn't have a CEL up for the EXUP if you have plugged in the Race ECU as these ECU's don't recognise things such as EXUP valves and intake flappers etc. I'l take a wild guess and say that you have a CEL up because the Race ECU is not compatible with your dash.
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-LG- said:
It should communicate with TnueECU. Try switching the bike off and on and restarting TuneECU. Also you shouldn't have a CEL up for the EXUP if you have plugged in the Race ECU as these ECU's don't recognise things such as EXUP valves and intake flappers etc. I'l take a wild guess and say that you have a CEL up because the Race ECU is not compatible with your dash.
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I've tried restarting it. I think the previous owner said the check engine light was from the exhaust valve removal. If I'm reading the blink code correctly, it seems to be "MAP sensor pipe disconnected". I believe the MAP sensor was relocated to the intake air duct. I don't know what the MAP sensor "pipe" is.
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-LG-
cdenley said:
I've tried restarting it. I think the previous owner said the check engine light was from the exhaust valve removal. If I'm reading the blink code correctly, it seems to be "MAP sensor pipe disconnected". I believe the MAP sensor was relocated to the intake air duct. I don't know what the MAP sensor "pipe" is.
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Your MAP Sensor should be attached externally to the rear left hand side of your airbox. It is supposed to have a hose attached to the sensor that runs down to a 3-way junction which has 3 hoses leading to your throttle bodies. Don't know why this sensor would be relocated to the intake snorkel. There is a sensor the same as MAP sensor on the intake snorkel but this sensor is the barometric pressure sensor.
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-LG- said:
Your MAP Sensor should be attached externally to the rear left hand side of your airbox. It is supposed to have a hose attached to the sensor that runs down to a 3-way junction which has 3 hoses leading to your throttle bodies. Don't know why this sensor would be relocated to the intake snorkel. There is a sensor the same as MAP sensor on the intake snorkel but this sensor is the barometric pressure sensor.
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You're right, it is the barometric pressure sensor. They look the same to me, and it must have been relocated because I had to drill the holes to mount it on my new snorkel.

It looks like the MAP sensor is there, but I don't see any hose/pipe. Where is the 3-way junction?

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C
I see 2 3-way connectors, but no 4-way connector T1242929.

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Both 3-way connectors seem to go to the throttle bodies. I'm not sure why there are 2. I bought another T-connector from the auto parts store and joined the MAP sensor to the top T-connector (T-connector + T-connector = 4-way connector). I cleared the error by turning the ignition on/off a few times with the throttle open. The error doesn't come back when I start it up, but it doesn't if I disconnect the MAP sensor, either. Could there be a legitimate reason for why it was disconnected? What impact does it have exactly, besides the CEL?
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-LG-
cdenley said:
Both 3-way connectors seem to go to the throttle bodies. I'm not sure why there are 2. I bought another T-connector from the auto parts store and joined the MAP sensor to the top T-connector (T-connector + T-connector = 4-way connector). I cleared the error by turning the ignition on/off a few times with the throttle open. The error doesn't come back when I start it up, but it doesn't if I disconnect the MAP sensor, either. Could there be a legitimate reason for why it was disconnected? What impact does it have exactly, besides the CEL?
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I believe the MAP sensor is involved in altering the engines tune to suit environmental conditions at lower RPM (ECU Closed Loop mode). Closed loop mode operates at lower RPM's and idle, it uses data from various sensors to make adjustments to the engines tune on the fly. Once the engine hits a certain RPM or throttle position the ECU goes into open loop mode and its tune is based purely on the fuel tables that are stored on the ECU itself.

If your MAP sensor is not connected, the bike may run a bit rough at idle and lower RPM's while cruising and I'm thinking it may have been disconnected previously because the sensor may have been faulty. I cant think of any reason to disconnect the MAP sensor. There is really nothing to be gained by disconnecting it.

@MacBandit might be able to correct me if I'm wrong or offer a better theory that will help?
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It sounds like it doesn't really matter on a race bike, but I don't know why he would go through the trouble of swapping the 4-way connector for a 3-way one to remove the hose going to the MAP sensor. It looks like there are 2 hoses coming from each side of the throttle bodies, each going to a different "T" connector. I just used the top one. See previously posted photo. Can someone tell me what that is like stock?
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MacBandit
You need the map sensor. The bike uses this input for a few things but the most important is to determine which cylinder is currently on its compression stroke.

There are two sets of vacuum hoses because one set was used for the charcoal canister connected to it for the fuel vapor emissions return.

Are you sure that one the tips on the 4 way isn't broken off so it looks like a 3 way?
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MacBandit said:
You need the map sensor. The bike uses this input for a few things but the most important is to determine which cylinder is currently on its compression stroke.

There are two sets of vacuum hoses because one set was used for the charcoal canister connected to it for the fuel vapor emissions return.

Are you sure that one the tips on the 4 way isn't broken off so it looks like a 3 way?
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How can the MAP sensor be used to determine which cylinder is on its compression stroke if it measures the air from all 3? Isn't the charcoal canister for the California-only evaporative loss control system? What do bikes outside of California have instead, a 3-way connector like mine?

I'm pretty sure they are both 3-way. I looked at them pretty close trying to figure out how the hose is supposed to connect.

Since neither set of hoses had a coal canister or sensor attached, I could use the MAP sensor on either, right?
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MacBandit
Sorry I read this at work when you asked and didn't have time to reply then promptly forgot about it.

Triumph uses the MAP sensor effectively as cam position sensor. Although the crank sensor can tell the when a cylinder is at top dead it can not tell when that cylinder is on the compression stroke. So every other time the ECU senses the piston at top dead one time is actually the compression and one time is the exhaust stroke. By using the MAP sensor it can detect if that piston is on the compression stroke because it will sense the negative pressure as the piston is going down on the intake stroke which occurs just before the compression stroke. This allows Triumph to have sequential spark and injection rather than sparking and injecting every time the piston is approaching TDC.

Since about 2009 or 2010 all Triumphs have been 50 state so they all came with a carbon canister regardless of state.

Yes you can connect the MAP sensor to either one as long as they only go to the throttle bodies and nothing else.
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C
Haven't had a CEL since, but I'd still like to get my OBD2 connection working. I never got TuneECU to work. I was thinking about getting a data logger, but I'm worried that wouldn't work with my OBD2 connection either, which would be a waste.

The LED indicators show the ELM 327 adapter is talking to my computer fine, but it isn't getting any data from the OBD2 port. I got the same results with the bike running as well. Are there pins by the ECU I could check continuity for? Maybe a wire is broken in the harness?

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I checked the wiring. The OBD2 ports is "2" in the top right. The black/green (data) wire has continuity to the ECU. The black wire has continuity to ground. The wiring diagram doesn't show the purple wire, but I read that should be 12V power. I couldn't figure out where that wire went, but it has a little over 13V even when the bike is off. I doubt the ODB2 adapter would use it anyway since it is powered by USB. So it seems my race kit ECU must not be sending diagnostic data and a data logger would be a waster of money? Unless TRACS can be used to enable diagnostics? Or maybe it is sending data, but the specific adapter I have just can't read it?

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I couldn't get the ODB2 cable to work in my car either, so I ordered a bluetooth adapter. Same error with TuneECU on Windows when I connect to the bluetooth serial port. It connects to the port but can't communicate to the ECU. I didn't feel like paying for the Android version. But with the Torque Lite app, I can read error codes, RPM, and TPS. So my OBD2 port is working. Maybe the reason I can't get TuneECU to work has something to do with the error code I'm getting.

P1614: ECM or tune ID Incorrect

But if Torque Lite can read the RPM and TPS, then I assume the AIM Solo DL would be able to as well.

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I bought a new cable and problem solved. I downloaded the map from my race kit ECU yesterday.
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MacBandit
Good to hear.
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I figured I would give an update in case someone else ran into the same issues. The new cable did work sometimes. But usually it would fail to connect using either my laptop or my girlfriend's (both Windows 10). I got a third cable and had the same issues. I tried the Android app on my phone, and it connected fine. I borrowed an older Windows 7 laptop, and it seemed to work fine with the same cable and driver that would not in Windows 10. I tried antivirus, firewall, power settings, but could not get Windows 10 to work. I installed Android on my laptop, and TuneECU works fine in Android.

Basically, I would suggest not using TuneECU in Windows. Windows sucks. The Android TuneECU app is supported, the Windows app is not. You can do everything with the Android app that you can with the Windows app. You need to use a USB cable to download/upload maps. They will work on phones with a USB adapter. Other than that, you can do anything with a bluetooth adapter as well. And Android can run on a PC.

http://www.android-x86.org/
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