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Trouble starting after riding a bit - R/R problem?

429 Views 15 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Dirk777
2014 Street Triple R ABS

Does this sound like the typical R/R or stator issue?

To start off, the battery is brand new. The issue started with the prior battery and persists with the new one as well.

I can start the bike multiple times when it's cold. After driving around for as little as 5 minutes at low speeds (under 40 mph), it struggles to start after shutting it off. I turned it off to talk to someone and 2 minutes later, it struggled to turn on. Whereas it starts immediately when cold, now it took about 2 or 3 turns to barely start.

A week prior, I rode it for a few hours without it stalling or having any issues. As soon as I got it home, I turned it off & on, but would not start at all after turning over a few times. Check again an hour later and it starts right up.

I found the stickied thread by d'ecosse and plan to go down the troubleshooting path outlined but I have a few days before the multimeter arrives. Figured I'd post here to see if there any other diagnostics I can do to help pin down the issue while waiting for the multimeter.
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What are the CCA of the battery?
The battery might be brand new but is it fully charged?
Personally I'd be getting it load tested to test for any issues.
What are the CCA of the battery?
The battery might be brand new but is it fully charged?
Personally I'd be getting it load tested to test for any issues.
Says it's 120 CCA. Fully charged, yes. I keep it on a battery tender when not in use.
This is the battery I just put in: https://www.amazon.com/Power-Sonic-PTX9BS-FS-Maintenance-Powersport-Battery/dp/B00I1KMMLQ

It's just strange that it never has problems starting when the bike is cold. That's why I was thinking the R/R or stator.
Hi, i just came across your post . I have a 2013 model with the same problem did you find the fault on your bike, so i can narrow it down before i start investigating the problem
Hi, i just came across your post . I have a 2013 model with the same problem did you find the fault on your bike, so i can narrow it down before i start investigating the problem
No solution yet. I am waiting for a few tools needed to diagnose the regulator/rectifier that should arrive in a few days, so I'll probably have something figured out by this weekend. I will remember to come and update this thread once I'm done so it can help others with the same problem.
All you need to test the stator and reg/rec is a multimeter with a diode setting.
All you need to test the stator and reg/rec is a multimeter with a diode setting.
Yes, that's exactly what I'm missing. Ordered one on Amazon this morning, should be here in 2 days.
Yes, that's exactly what I'm missing. Ordered one on Amazon this morning, should be here in 2 days.
Ahh, I see. Very good, carry on.
2014 Street Triple R ABS

Does this sound like the typical R/R or stator issue?

To start off, the battery is brand new. The issue started with the prior battery and persists with the new one as well.

I can start the bike multiple times when it's cold. After driving around for as little as 5 minutes at low speeds (under 40 mph), it struggles to start after shutting it off. I turned it off to talk to someone and 2 minutes later, it struggled to turn on. Whereas it starts immediately when cold, now it took about 2 or 3 turns to barely start.

A week prior, I rode it for a few hours without it stalling or having any issues. As soon as I got it home, I turned it off & on, but would not start at all after turning over a few times. Check again an hour later and it starts right up.

I found the stickied thread by d'ecosse and plan to go down the troubleshooting path outlined but I have a few days before the multimeter arrives. Figured I'd post here to see if there any other diagnostics I can do to help pin down the issue while waiting for the multimeter.
The multimeter arrived and so I did a quick set of tests, here's the results:
Completely off and have not started yet: 12.6v
Ignition on, have not started: 12.5v
Started and idling: Fluctuates between 13.8v and 14.5v
Turned off: 13.4 for about 5 minutes, then back to 12.6

I'm going to start running through detailed guide by d'ecosse later today.
The battery shouldn't drop while just sitting there. Sounds more like a parasitic draw.
It's a good sign that you're seeing around 14v at idle which means the stator is putting out what it should. However it should not be bouncing around that much at idle. All my bikes at idle stay within .1v at idle (in the low 14s).

Your regulator may no longer be regulating. A much easier fix than the stator.

I find it useful at times to see what voltages I'm getting while riding. You can buy (for cheap on ebay) a voltage monitor that clips to your handlebar. Good for troubleshooting and to keep and eye on things if a problem is suspected.
I had a similar problem with my 2012 STR. Random no-start , even after a 45min ride.
I started to carry a booster battery. It was a brand x battery.
Good voltage. Just randomly, would be uncharged.
I finally gave in and bought a better quality battery.
The issue went away. You might have a different issue, but just my experience.
Could it be same problem I posted about here 2011 Daytona hard start after heat soak? Turned out to be a vacuum line was disconnected accidentally.
Hi josh, i have the same problem on my street triple 675 r, I have just got round to checking your fault procedure, The battery befoe starting it read 12.2 volts, once started it up 14.1 then settled at 13.9 volts. Going through the procedure two / three time without no difference so i let it run until the fan cut in then switched it off and tryed to restart it , the engine struggled to turn over, with the meter leads clipped to the battery and trying to turning it over the battery was reading was 9.6 - 10 volts
Hi,
had the same issue for a longer period of time. Checked every voltage and easy accessible connection but the only thing that was strange, was an occasional voltage drop under 10 Volt when the starter-motor was running. So I blamed the starter motor and decided to replace the brushes with the next service. Unfortunately things went worse, suddenly I noticed a bad smell of burned plastics on every trafic light where I had to stop. Made it to my home as fast as possible. Sniffed around and the smell came from under the gas-tank. After removing the tank I found a completely destroyed 3Pin connector and molten isolation on the three wires. This was the 2nd connection between the generator and the rectifier and it is only a scrappy 1ct part, which is badly accessible.
Then I removed the connectors that are directly on the rectifier and measurd the resistance of the 3 wires comming from the generator coils, against each other and against earth.....everything was shortcutted. A week later I fitted the new (generic)generator and the selfmade new wireloom. Everything is fine now.

An electric engineer explained me, the problem was the corroded (invisible) 3Pconnector under the tank. If only one of the 3 phases has reduced conductivity due to corrosion it will get hot, and the other 2 coils will be overpowered, because the rectifier draws more current from the two remaining phases. In my case this led to destruction of the generator coils (overheating, burned isolation laquer). So I recommend you to take the tank of and look if the wiring is in perfect condition, before you destroy the expensive generator because a 1ct part quit his work.

Best regards
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As you can see Triumph did react after thousands of 675 generators died ! The 765 has no scrappy second connector in the generator/rectifier wiring
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