[kai]

Getting ready to drop the engine and in the Haynes manual it mentioned a special tool needed for the frame. Haynes also mentioned that a large flat head screwdriver could also be used. If there is anyone who has this tool, can you measure the width for me? I have a bunch of large screwdrivers but I want be sure they are large enough.

 

[NCRider]

Getting ready to drop the engine and in the Haynes manual it mentioned a special tool needed for the frame. Haynes also mentioned that a large flat head screwdriver could also be used. If there is anyone who has this tool, can you measure the width for me? I have a bunch of large screwdrivers but I want be sure they are large enough.

I have pulled my Daytona motor twice (getting ready to do it a third time) and I didn't need any special tools for anything.

 

[kai]

Oh ok. Thanks for the heads up. The book mentioned that the sleeves in the frame have to be screwed in so that they don't extend to the inside of the frame.

 

[MacBandit]

How did you loosen the frame adjusters? They're usually freaking tight. Although they are just a crown nut so you can get a socket the right size and then grind it down so you have the four points.

 

[air_odie]

the special tool for the engine mount adjustments is about as thick as a nickel in the states here, I got it just because I thought it would be cool to have....in all honesty a large flat blade or even beeter yet a chisel with the right width would work just as good...one thing I really did notice on the tool though, it makes it SUPER easy when putting the motor back in because it doesnt slip, like the screwdriver did the first time I did a motor swap

 

[kai]

I used a large blade screw driver yesterday. Had the old motor out and the new one installed in 3 hours by myself. Lots of cursing and a couple good nicks but it's in.

 

[vendige]

the question is why are yall needing to swap motors ?

 

[kai]

Don't know about the rest of them but mine was due to the previous owner forgetting to add the oil after an oil change.

 

[MacBandit]

Race motor rebuild was the most recent reason. Most of the time though it was customer neglect.

 

[air_odie]

first engine out was for race kit install

then motor was taken out one more time for rebuild

............
motor went completly, pulled out for 2nd motor

2nd motor fully built and first still needs a few things
third motor a 2010 one sitting in crate off to engine guys soon

so motor 1 (original) blown suspect oil cavataion
motor 2 a race preped 07
motor 3 a 2010 from craigslist in NY

bike is an 06

I REALLY ride hard track or not so......

 

[NCRider]

the question is why are yall needing to swap motors ?

I have a god awful rattle. I am fairly certain a rod is bad. Most likely because I didnt keep proper tabs on the oil level - but it could have been damage done by previous owner.

 

[Karl]

A rattle? Or a Knock?
One would have me looking at the timing chain, the second may be a big end.

 

[NCRider]

A rattle? Or a Knock?
One would have me looking at the timing chain, the second may be a big end.

Have had the motor out twice. Only thing I haven't taken out is the rods. It is most def not just a knock.

 

[Karl]

Invest in a stethoscope and have a poke about around the chain area before you buy a new motor.
A cam chain will rattle more than knock.
If you have one, and if you can, to eliminate a big end knock have the bike running and plugged into a computer, now with it going tok tok tok tok, retard the timing bit by bit until the noise goes.
If the noise goes, it’s the big end, if not… Keep looking.
This is assuming you can adjust the timing with it running.
Or, get a manual chain adjuster and slowly wind it in and see if the noise goes.
If not, big end may be toast.
Or… Check the oil pressure, find what it should be and compare the two amounts.
Excessively worn bearings will drop the oil pressure by quite a lot.
I’d hate to buy another engine for no reason.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

first engine out was for race kit install

then motor was taken out one more time for rebuild

............
motor went completly, pulled out for 2nd motor

2nd motor fully built and first still needs a few things
third motor a 2010 one sitting in crate off to engine guys soon

so motor 1 (original) blown suspect oil cavataion
motor 2 a race preped 07
motor 3 a 2010 from craigslist in NY

bike is an 06

I REALLY ride hard track or not so......

Two questions:

1) Anyone have a link for this special tool? Googling "daytona motor replacement tool" is yielding less than stellar results.

2) Can first gen motors go into second gen bikes without a whole bunch of wiring/ECU changes? And/or vice versa, second gen into first gen?

Asking because I obviously have a first gen so thought I was constrained to that (from a replacement bike perspective) if I wanted a spare motor.

 

[MGFChapin]

It's a frame adjuster tool, Triumph P/N T3880103: http://triumphparts.calmoto.com/p/Triumph__/Eng-Mounting-Adjuster-Wrench/43496356/T3880103.html

Get that or make your own tool with an 8 or 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket. I forget which one fits, should be obvious once you get the big engine mount bolts out and you can see the adjusters. Don't cheap out and use a screwdriver.

06-12 engines will fit in your frame no problem. If you get an 09-12 engine though, you'll need an appropriate ECU, which means you may also have to swap out the dash and harness but don't quote me on that.

 

[JustSomeGuy]

It's a frame adjuster tool, Triumph P/N T3880103: http://triumphparts.calmoto.com/p/Triumph__/Eng-Mounting-Adjuster-Wrench/43496356/T3880103.html

Get that or make your own tool with an 8 or 10mm 1/4" drive deep socket. I forget which one fits, should be obvious once you get the big engine mount bolts out and you can see the adjusters. Don't cheap out and use a screwdriver.

06-12 engines will fit in your frame no problem. If you get an 09-12 engine though, you'll need an appropriate ECU, which means you may also have to swap out the dash and harness but don't quote me on that.

Thank you, sir - just ordered.

BTW, I would've bought your SV listed on 13x if you weren't on the other side of the country :wink3:

 

[MGFChapin]

BTW, I would've bought your SV listed on 13x if you weren't on the other side of the country :wink3:

Sold it to a guy in California, will be delivering in November. Cross-country freight is surprisingly cheap though, I bought 2 bikes out of state in the last year and I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

 

[RidersDiscount]

For the tool use a large flat blade screwdriver. We made no less than 20 engine swaps between all the bikes over the last 3 years and never used a "special" tool.

Most quality screw drivers will have a spot to put a wrench on the shaft in the event that the sleeve is very tight or corroded.

One tip: Follow the manual for installing the motor as there is a sequence for tightening the bolts and sleeves

 

[JustSomeGuy]

For the tool use a large flat blade screwdriver. We made no less than 20 engine swaps between all the bikes over the last 3 years and never used a "special" tool.

Most quality screw drivers will have a spot to put a wrench on the shaft in the event that the sleeve is very tight or corroded.

One tip: Follow the manual for installing the motor as there is a sequence for tightening the bolts and sleeves

Thanks for the tip about installing the motor - as it is, just pulling it from my wrecked track bike and hopefully will sit on my shelf for a while until I grenade the motor in my (yet to be found/purchased) replacement track bike.

And I'm a lazy SOB, so for $60 delivered just bought the tool.........can never have enough tools >