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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, another noob question.

Can someone explain to me exactly why the Street Triple weighs more than the Daytona 675, despite being naked and having no fairings?

Is it due to the second exhaust can that alone weighs 2kgs more than the D675's fairings + brackets? Or is there some other largish lump of added weight that the Street Triple is carrying somewhere?

Am interested, because I'm researching about severely weight stripping a 675, and am wondering if I'm better off starting from a more expensive D675 base and converting it to a Street Triple format, or whether there's some obvious lump of easily removable weight hanging around somewhere on the Street Triple that accounts for its added heft.

Cheers!
 

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flux- 4 lbs. is the difference 417 vs 421 lbs wet-(although on a BIKE review from summer the Daytona was weighed as 424 with fluids) after reading CD's 178 wire change I can't see the positives if you don't already own a D675. The stock dual Stainless steel exhaust system has got to be the biggest culprit as going with the 3-1 arrow drops a whopping 22 lbs. I've done it- the lowboy places the weight in a far better location and the bike's center of gravity is very noticiably lower. By removing the passenger pegs you can knock off another 3-4 lbs. That all puts you at less than 400lbs with a full tank of gas. Adding up silly pieces-the brake reservior in aluminum rather than a plastic cup, the "metal" headlight assembly compared to plastic beams-and although I didn't weigh them when I changed out the forks for the Daytona's maybe they cut a couple corners and didn't trim the ST's tubes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok, maybe I'm being unrealistic. I'd like to reach around 340lbs lubed but no fuel (ie. half-wet).

421lbs wet means 30lbs of fuel, so a Street Triple is starting out at 391lbs half-wet.

-22lbs for the exhaust option => 369lbs
-2lbs for replacing steel licence holder with aluminium => 367lbs
-4lbs for 520 alloy sprocket/chain option => 363lbs
-3lbs for removing pillion pegs => 360lbs
-2lbs for fitting unweighted flat & wide clipons => 358lbs
-1lb for using bar end mirrors => 357lbs
-1lb for light-weight headlight change => 356lbs
-1lb using Daytona 675 2009 magnesium engine cover => 355lbs
-2lbs using titanium bolt kit => 353lbs

-??lbs using 10 spoke forged magnesium rims => 34?lbs

Anything more that could be gutted/removed, while keeping it street legal? Obviously the goal here is featherweight.
 

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Anything more that could be gutted/removed, while keeping it street legal? Obviously the goal here is featherweight.
Make the rider do some aerobics? -20lbs of fat :rofl:
 

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When I replaced the standard rear shock on mine, with a Penske unit, I was amazed by the difference in weight.

Standard unit was about 2.4 kilos, Penske was just about half that, IIRC.

regards,CrazyCam
 

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Ok, maybe I'm being unrealistic. I'd like to reach around 340lbs lubed but no fuel (ie. half-wet).

421lbs wet means 30lbs of fuel, so a Street Triple is starting out at 391lbs half-wet.

-22lbs for the exhaust option => 369lbs
-2lbs for replacing steel licence holder with aluminium => 367lbs
-4lbs for 520 alloy sprocket/chain option => 363lbs
-3lbs for removing pillion pegs => 360lbs
-2lbs for fitting unweighted flat & wide clipons => 358lbs
-1lb for using bar end mirrors => 357lbs
-1lb for light-weight headlight change => 356lbs
-1lb using Daytona 675 2009 magnesium engine cover => 355lbs
-2lbs using titanium bolt kit => 353lbs

-??lbs using 10 spoke forged magnesium rims => 34?lbs

Anything more that could be gutted/removed, while keeping it street legal? Obviously the goal here is featherweight.
if we are talking st3 removing one or both of the headlights and replacing one or both with lightweight units would shave a few more pounds off as well
 

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340ls wet is less than an AMA 600 race bike....so i think that is an unrealistic goal. Also taking off the plastics to acheive a light race bike is also counterproductive. The nakeds are practically unrideable past 135 mph. IE...you need the fairing. I would guess that a well thought out naked with minimum lighting...aluminum bars....and light rims...would acheive about 365 to 370 pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Goal is not a race-bike. Goal is a superlight naked streeter project bike. For want of a better word, think motard, but with the street triple as a base.

Speeds above 135mph are not the goal of this bike in any way. In fact, 135mph is about where I'd be gearing the bike to top out at, at the rev limiter in 6th.

Rider weight is irrelevant, as this is not going to be used at a race track to set fastest lap times. This is a gnarly back-road terror bike that is intended to punch from corner to corner, will wheelie at command with a crack of the throttle, and being light-weight will rail around corners like a MotoGP bike (same weight).

I've been researching a second bike, being a motard like a KTM690SMC, but I also cover a lot of miles. Long term reliability and frequency of servicing is therefore an important consideration. After looking and looking, I'm coming to the conclusion that there's not really such a thing out there as a superlight-weight reliable powerful motard.

I've ridden my Daytona over miles of dirt, and the sheer punchy gruntiness of the engine out of corners in the dirt has often made me think what a fantastic dirt-bike motor the 675 triple would be.

My solution: if the market doesn't sell me what I want, I'll make what I want. Am not really looking for understanding, but I do appreciate any advice anyone can offer about helping me to achieve my goal.

As I said, the stated goal is 340lbs half-wet. ie. road trim but with an empty tank of fuel. I do think that's achievable. If you check out my list above, I reckon 348lbs is definitely doable. It's the other 8lbs that I'm looking for, and figure that Striple owners here would have the best idea as to what's superfluous baggage on their bikes.
 

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Although it would be nice, i think your list of weight savings is on the optimistic side. I completely agree with the, construct what fits my needs approach, but it will have to be at the expense of $$$$. As the saying goes, "Nothing is impossible, it will just cost more".
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Although it would be nice, i think your list of weight savings is on the optimistic side. I completely agree with the, construct what fits my needs approach, but it will have to be at the expense of $$$$. As the saying goes, "Nothing is impossible, it will just cost more".
I understand this. Here's the clincher though. Using a Striple R as a base point, then doing all of the listed above, minus the rims, comes out at about the same price as a KTM 690SMC.

This, too, is what is driving this project. Do I want to spend $XX for a fragile and expensive to maintain KTM 690SMC that has ~63rwhp and weighs in at ~310lbs half-wet with not a whole lot left that can be stripped off. Alternately, spend $XX + $2000 (incl. rims and other bits), and end up with a reliable and cheap to maintain ~100rwhp bike that weighs in at ~340lbs half-wet.

Seems to me that ~30lbs is neither here nor there when factoring in the superior motor. Aside from the initial investment, the added cost of the "StripaRd" solution would be cheaper in the long run over the running costs of a 690SMC.

No, it's no Aprilia SXV550 (275lbs half-wet with 67rwhp), but those things have 10 hourly service intervals. ie. go for a day ride, and you need to perform a major service on it. Nice bike, but no thanks.

I've punted the D675 along bumpy gnarly tight "motard specialty" roads following a very well ridden motard (both the other rider and myself consider each other rough equals when on similar machinery), and while conceding some 30 seconds of ground over a 10 mile distance, I put that largely down to following:

- Ease of throwing the lighter weight motard around through corners. A 675 is too heavy to slide the rear in and kick out in confidence.
- Steering/handlebar position (narrow angle sportsbike clipons suck for control in bumpy 40mph corners - very hard work)
- Gearing/punch out of corners. First on the 675 is too short and peaky, second isn't punchy enough. Third and higher are useless. The D675's spins up linearly, but doesn't have a super-strong low-end kick to boot it out of slow corners. A broader spread of low-end power, coupled with 2nd gear set at midway between stock 1st & 2nd would go a long, long, way. Yes, 1st would effectively be useless except for wheelying. That's not a problem, it's in fact desirable for this project bike.

I want to keep my D675 for longer-haul sprint-touring duties, but I won't deny that for a number of the short afternoon road rides I go on, are tight, gnarly, twisty bumpy roads that while fun on the D675, could be enjoyed more with a bike more suited to that sort of thing.

Cheers.
 

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Hi [Flux].

I know this may be a rude question but how fit are you?

Assume for a moment, the answer is very, my suggestion is to fit your Street Triple with the Daytona pegs, and some wider, more dirt bike like bars.

This would allow you to move your weight further forward, which, from what I understand of what you are saying, would make the Street Triple perform more like what you want.

Yes, you wouldn't get the style of performance you want, sitting back like an elderly gentleman.... you'd have to be up on your feet most of the time, but ridden like that, I think you'd find the Street Triple a valid alternative to specialist motard beasties.

Frankly, I wouldn't drop the gearing 'cos you'd only find that "transport" sections were too long and slow. :nod:

regards,CrazyCam
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi CrazyCam.

I presently own a Daytona 675, not a Street Triple.

I am trying to decide between purchasing a KTM 690SMC, or a Striple Triple R, and weight stripping the latter to anorexia.

Am I fit? Fit enough. I take the D675 out on >600km day rides where we never leave a tightly winding road for more than 10 minutes, largely carrying my weight on the pegs (have well developed quads), and get over the front wheel supporting my weight with the core muscles for literally hours at a time.

I could do with losing 10kgs to reach a good weight, and maybe 15kgs at which point I'd be a string bean. I go to the gym and have been working on that, so that aspect is taken care of.

I have no real desire to sit up like a gentleman. I want to fit flat and wide and slightly high-ish clip ons to a Striple, to effectively turn it into more of a cafe racer cross motard bar stance, and that'd suit me just fine.

If I want to do long distances at speed, I'll use the Daytona. I'm talking about this concept "second bike" here.
 

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Well, as I suggested, a Street Triple with the Daytona pegs, which are higher, would allow you to stand up on the pegs, leaning forward into something like an attack position. I really wouldn't go to clip-ons, but maybe a flatter wider bar than standard on the Streetie.

Getting your weight more central would, effectively, make the bike more "motard-ish" for the lack of a better term.

regards,CrazyCam
 

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Ok, maybe I'm being unrealistic. I'd like to reach around 340lbs lubed but no fuel (ie. half-wet).

421lbs wet means 30lbs of fuel, so a Street Triple is starting out at 391lbs half-wet.

-22lbs for the exhaust option => 369lbs
-2lbs for replacing steel licence holder with aluminium => 367lbs
-4lbs for 520 alloy sprocket/chain option => 363lbs
-3lbs for removing pillion pegs => 360lbs
-2lbs for fitting unweighted flat & wide clipons => 358lbs
-1lb for using bar end mirrors => 357lbs
-1lb for light-weight headlight change => 356lbs
-1lb using Daytona 675 2009 magnesium engine cover => 355lbs
-2lbs using titanium bolt kit => 353lbs

-??lbs using 10 spoke forged magnesium rims => 34?lbs

Anything more that could be gutted/removed, while keeping it street legal? Obviously the goal here is featherweight.
Also add a tail tidy, the OM one is quite a big hefty lump, could lose some weight there..

ashley
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Also add a tail tidy, the OM one is quite a big hefty lump, could lose some weight there..

ashley
Cheers Ashley. That was the second item on the list. Yeah, when I put the tail tidy on the Daytona, the stock item weighs in at 2.5lbs. The after-market item, 0.5lbs. Hence the 2lbs savings there. That stock tail unit is a solid chunk of heavy steel, and I'm frankly surprised that Triumph have opted to use such a heavy thing there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
it sounds like the your goal is unrealistic for a street-oriented, low-clearance bike. i have trouble believing you have spent extended periods riding a daytona on dirt without destroying major parts.
Like what parts?

Kicking a sports bike through dirt/gravel roads is easy/fun. Just carry your weight wholly on the pegs and let the bike move around under you. Am not riding it over rocky trails if that's what you're picturing, but yeah, I'll kick it out through 10-20miles of dirt/gravel at a time to get from one good bit of bitumen to another.

Quite frankly I get a little amazed at the number of people who are afraid of a bit of dirt/gravel on their road bikes. It's no where near as bad as some seem to think it is.

Anyway, this project bike isn't really meant to gravel/dirt at all. It's a bitumen terror. Just that the 675's motor is something that I reckon would go well in an adventure bike is all I was saying. Basically I was lending my thoughts on the concept of a Triumph Tiger Cub format. That'd rock, but that's not what this (bike that I'm building) is about at all.
 

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Would a hypermotard work for you? it's not a thumper so i'm sure it's not as sensitive to extended periods at WOT, plus it's as light as you want it to be.

It IS expensive though. I've heard that the husky sm610, in spite of the thumper, eats miles and does extended highway pretty well. at 325 lbs dry with lots of unnecessary kit, it may be an easier task than getting a stripleR to 340 wet.
 
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