[Lucythered]

Hey guys, I am replacing my head gasket for a couple of reasons. Head gasket sweating coolant, slight overheating [after idling in around -10c in a garage for 20 min it was at 6 bars.] The thermometer area is leaking coolant. So I presume the thermometer has gone and or maybe the water pump which built up pressure lifting the head for a second. Causing sweating.

Also thinking this might be my issue^

I am by no means a mechanic, so my diagnosis might be wrong.

Is there anything I should replace when I am in my engine other than the gasket?
Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

My bike is a 2010 675 if that helps. Also sorry for the bad photos...

Thanks in advance for any replies/help.

 

[Far Canal]

You'll need to replace the head bolts as well. They are single use.
Do you understand that the motor will need to be dropped to remove the head? It's not really a job for a novice. Do you have a service manual?

Why have you posted this in the introductions section?

 

[Lucythered]

You'll need to replace the head bolts as well. They are single use.
Do you understand that the motor will need to be dropped to remove the head? It's not really a job for a novice. Do you have a service manual?

Why have you posted this in the introductions section?

Ahh ok, I will order some head bolts.

Yup, I'm aware that I need to take it out. I have already taken the bike apart to where I just need to take out the frame bolts and loosen the frame adjuster things.

I don't have a service manual but plan on getting one for torque specs and such. If you have a link to one online that would be great.

Sorry, I'm new to posting in this forum. Wasn't aware I was posting in the introductions section lol

Also, I was doing some research and found out that triumph sells race head gaskets at different thicknesses. Would it be more advantageous to use one of those over the stock one? I don't track/race my bike [Yet] just some aggressive street riding.

Cheers

 

[Far Canal]

You can find free service manuals all over the internet. Fitting the motor requires a very precise sequence for the frame adjusters. Failure to do so can result in an unbalanced motor which will stress the frame and lead to the welds cracking.
I doubt anyone still sells race head gaskets(obsolete) but stick with stock anyway.
Replace the radiator cap and thermostat while you're at it.

 

[Neanderthal]

20 minutes idling without some air movement will make it run hot, regardless of condition. Agree 100% with Far Canal, stick with OEM gasket.

 

[Far Canal]

Yes, these bikes run hot. 6 bars is normal operating temp, especially sitting idle.

 

[Lucythered]

You can find free service manuals all over the internet. Fitting the motor requires a very precise sequence for the frame adjusters. Failure to do so can result in an unbalanced motor which will stress the frame and lead to the welds cracking.
I doubt anyone still sells race head gaskets(obsolete) but stick with stock anyway.
Replace the radiator cap and thermostat while you're at it.

Ok sounds good. I ordered a stock head gasket and all the other things.

Found a service manual online, and saw what you meant with the frame adjusters. Was looking in the forums and saw a thread from 2012 in which you commented, saying instead of buying the triumph tool just make your own. Could I not just use a large flathead screwdriver, and hand tighten it seeing as 3 nm is nothing?

As he is doing in this video, skip to 1:12.

Might be the wrong way to do it, just curious.

True they do run hot, but from my experience. I would get 6 maybe 7 bars in hot-ish weather [25-30c] stop-and-go traffic/ long stoplights. Not in -10c with the garage door open, only idling.
Then again I may be wrong.

Thanks for the help guys, much appreciated.

 

[Far Canal]

As long as you're confident to reach 3nm you can use whatever tool you want to tighten the frame adjusters.