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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Ha! Then again, once all the electrical is sorted :excited:

I have mine in the shop for some new front brakes and rotors. Checking out the CCT as well while it's there.
Nice. My new CCT is leaking now, so time to figure that one out :|
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
So, I rode to IMS in Long Beach yesterday which was a blast. Got home late, shut off the bike and put in garage. I just went to go start it, and just got a click like my battery was dead but then all the lights and the cluster went out too. I turned the key off and back on, tried again, same thing happened but now the bike won't do anything if I turn the key back to the on position. Checked all my fuses, battery is charged, wtf?
 

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Man, still sounds like you have some electrical gremlins left. If you do want someone to look at, R Cal in HB did all my electrical back in the day. New stator, R/R and he improved some of the wiring as well. I wonder if the latter is the problem? Maybe some bad/damaged wiring? If you recently checked the charging system, that seems like the only variable left?

I just got mine back. Fresh brakes; not cheap but now the thing STOPS! They also checked my CCT; he tightened it up a bit but no damage. Apparently there's a way to adjust it even though it's not a manual one; he explained it to me but I wasn't quite following.

I was at the IMS yesterday afternoon. On my N1K though :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Nice! I took the battery in and got a new one under warranty. Charged it last night, put it in this morning, and went for a nice ride down into Newport/Corona Del Mar, and ran a couple errands. No issues yet! Because it just epicly died at once I'm gonna chalk it up to a defective battery. When we tested the stator and R/R we also checked thw wiring and it was all good.

Brakes aren't too bad when you do them yourself! I would be happy to assist a fellow Triumph owner :)
 

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Excellent! Great to hear! And thanks for the offer; I'll keep that in mind :). I already had the brake pads but the rotors are the pricey piece; one of them was warped causing vibration when braking at high speed, so I figured now was a good time to change them. 2015 was a rough year; new clutch, overhauled the cooling system, brakes, etc. Luckily I should be done for a while. A valve adjustment and chain/sprockets are on the horizon in 2016 but that's about it.
 

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I had the same problem with the Ape CCT leaking. IIRC I left off an o-ring washer from the oem that needed to be installed on the Ape tensioner or I had put the one that came with it in the wrong spot. It was awhile ago but it was something weird and simple like that if you're certain the gasket is fine. Wish I could be more help but double check the install instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I had the same problem with the Ape CCT leaking. IIRC I left off an o-ring washer from the oem that needed to be installed on the Ape tensioner or I had put the one that came with it in the wrong spot. It was awhile ago but it was something weird and simple like that if you're certain the gasket is fine. Wish I could be more help but double check the install instructions.
Thanks for the input. I actually took care of it a little over a week ago. I did originally reuse the o-ring from the OEM tensioner, as the directions said to do. The 2006-08 D675s do not have a gasket for the CCT. This time around I replaced the o-ring with a new one, and my friend that helped me out the first time told me to put some silicone sealant on it to make a gasket, so that way I wouldn't need to mess with it again. So far, so good :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Time for an update. Went to Chuckwalla in December and had a great time! I did the 24K service myself in January. All the exhaust valves were pretty tight and far out of spec, and the intakes were on the tighter side of spec. Reshimmed them mid-spec and changed the sparks plugs and oil while I was at it. Bike was running great! Unfortunately, I dumped her at the track this past Friday :( It was a lowside in a left hander, but the bike and my body both got fairly banged up. Front and side plastics are scratched but not cracked or broken, the tank got a big dent and the paint chipped off, the rearset is bent and the peg was ground away, the stator cover got pretty scraped up, the left clip-on broke off, the tail fairing broke apart and I'm pretty sure the rear subframe is bent. Frame looks alright, but will be inspected more closely. As of now, the bike will not crank. I'm guessing either the tip-over sensor or the clutch safety switch, although I looked and it seemed like that was engaging properly. I dislocated my shoulder and ripped through my suit and slid on my arm for a little, so a bit of road rash occurred. I popped my shoulder back within a minute or two of the crash. I got checked out yesterday and they verified it was back where it should be and that nothing was fractured. Hoping 1-2 weeks recovery time at most. I don't see myself working on the bike with my shoulder in its current shape. As for the bike, I'm not sure where to start. I have been thinking about going full track bike, but I do still enjoy riding on the street and being able to get out on the bike more than once every other month. Parts are looking scarce and expensive. The tank is my biggest concern, as I have only been able to find one Tornado Red tank thus far and it is in the UK. I am curious about getting the tank repaired and repainted, and if that would be more cost effective than looking for a replacement. Also, does anyone know how close Diablo Red is to Tornado Red?
 

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Man, I'm sorry to hear that :(. But glad you're ok!

Getting a tank painted and color matched should be pretty cheap, so I'd pick one up in whatever color you can find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Man, I'm sorry to hear that :(. But glad you're ok!

Getting a tank painted and color matched should be pretty cheap, so I'd pick one up in whatever color you can find.
Thanks! It's been 9 days and I'm feeling good! Looking to start physical therapy in the next couple days.

I have also ordered everything I need to fix the bike. Figured out the starting issue, it was the clutch safety switch. After fiddling with the wiring, turning it upside down and knocking on the clutch perch, she finally turned over and fired up! I also picked up some track plastics so I won't need to go through the trouble of finding OEM parts again if I dump her at the track. Since all my fairings are only scratched (aside from the tail section), I have decided I am just going to get them all repainted. A friend of a friend gave me a solid price to do everything so I think it makes more sense than to try and hunt down OEM replacements. That said, I still need an OEM tail section. I would rather find a red one, but I could just throw it in with the parts to be painted for a few dollars more. Glad things are getting rolling though. I'm shooting to head back out to Chuckwalla at the end of the month, but we'll see how realistic that is in the next week and a half. If that isn't feasible, I will certainly get out there in April.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Went out to Chuckwalla on Friday. It was 8 weeks to the day since I crashed in February. My bike is all fixed up and I scored on a matching set of front track plastics from a buddy so I got a superbike tail and had it painted to get the full racebike effect. A couple of our buddies came to Chuck for the first time with us so my regular compatriots and I sandbagged C Group with them. My buddy on the gold R6 and I diced it out session after session since it was easy to get past everyone else out there.





 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Heal up quickly! I may be up in J-Tree the weekend of 4/9. Doing some touring on the N1K.

Hope she's back on the road soon!
Thanks for the wishes! All is well now :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 · (Edited)
Thanks for the comments on the photos everyone! I've been MIA for a while on here, and I have a lot of down time right now due to another crash (more on that later).

So, recap of the last year, since my last post:
Did four track days after the ones the above photos are from. Had an issue with the bike overheating in the pits while I was at Chuckwalla for the weekend in May. Turned out my coolant temp sensor was glitching, preventing the fan from kicking on when it needed to and causing coolant to boil in the radiator. Wasn't an issue while out on the track with air moving through the radiator, just annoying to see 2 bars (<120F water temp) on the cluster while I was pinned in 4th on the back straight after already riding hard for 10 minutes. New sensor fixed that.

Everything after was pretty mellow. Had some nice summer rides on PCH, made it back out to the track in October using a 190/55 Q3 on the rear instead of the 180/55. I was told by the Dunlop guy at the track that the 190 is what they recommend for all middleweights because the tire height matches the 120/70 front better than the 180/55. Bike was much more stable and not much harder to turn in than with the 180. Head shake was reduced dramatically.

In December, I completed the New Racers School with TrackDaz at Chuckwalla and earned my amateur road racing license with CVMA. I planned on going racing at some point this year and was starting to save for another 675 to turn into a track bike.

So, that brings us to 2017.
First issue: found a decent size piece of metal while draining my oil in January (see thread here). After pulling the case covers, dropping the sump, and inspecting everything I could see, I figured it was an old piece of metal that had been in there for a while. I discovered the previous owner had a chain break on him which punctured the engine case. He repaired it with JB Weld, and it has worked this far, so.. My mechanic friend and I determined it was likely residual from that. Slapped everything back together and it no longer made this buzzing noise while WOT at low RPM. Put some miles on it without issue, figured everything was peachy.

In March, I noticed a thin trail of smoke (something burning) occasionally coming from under my gas tank while the bike was idling. Pulled tank, connector for the cables between R/R and stator have melted together and some of the wire casing had hardened and chipped off. Break the connectors, trim wires, add new connectors, still melts electrical tape, but no more smoke and less heat so I figure it's a good enough fix for the track day I have in two days.

I went out to Chuckwalla on March 24th and went down during the first session of the day, lap 6. Too much gas, rear started to slide progressively, so I started rolling off the throttle slowly. Rear got traction and threw me over the bike. I sprained my left wrist, both ankles, and got a compression fracture to the cuboid bone in my right foot from my 5th metatarsal being slammed into it. Saw an orthopedist and my metatarsal is 2-3mm out of place, he doesn't think he can fix it without compromising my foot's usability so he said to just let it heal and see what happens. It's been 10 days. I'm in a walking boot and am able to put some weight on it. Sprains are all 70-90% healed I would say. Bike is somehow in much better shape than I am. It just fell on the right side and my frame slider and swingarm slider saved a lot. My track fairings are rashed up, the crash mushroom on the frame slider and the mounting bolt are bent, the timing cover is rashed, and my tank got a small bit of rash, but some carbon fiber tank sliders will cover it up ;) No dents, luckily. My right handlebar tube snapped, but they are aftermarket clip ons, and my rearset step plate is bent and the footpeg is back in the dirt at Chuckwalla somewhere by Turn 15. No punctures to cases, bike fires up no problem and sounds normal at idle with light revs. Shouldn't be too bad to fix, especially compared to my crash last year. Still a bummer, though. I'm looking at 4-6 weeks total recovery time. My Laguna Seca D1 and Pista GP are write offs, unfortunately. But this is how it goes. I have learned what I can, and will do my best to avoid that mistake again. Hoping I'll be able to get back out to the track before the end of the year. I'm also planning to buy an engagement ring for my girlfriend so that is hurdle number 1, then I can think about a new race suit and a track helmet. Sorry no pictures, really don't feel like crutching out to the garage and trying to pull my bike out solo. Once I can walk I'll snap a few.
 

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Nice update! Hope you recover fully and quickly. I'm hoping to get out to Chuck later this year. Tried going April 16 but that's already sold out.

And it does suck to crash a nice helmet. After I "crash tested" my Bell Carbon last year, I went for the lower end model. Maybe a hair heavier but still Snell approved and same fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Nice update! Hope you recover fully and quickly. I'm hoping to get out to Chuck later this year. Tried going April 16 but that's already sold out.

And it does suck to crash a nice helmet. After I "crash tested" my Bell Carbon last year, I went for the lower end model. Maybe a hair heavier but still Snell approved and same fit.
Thanks for the kind wishes! Yeah, I'm probably going to buy a Corsa this time around. I had one, but crashed it last year when I did the number on my shoulder. Lucky for me, my Pista GP was actually given to me by a friend because the latch for the shield was broken. Another friend and I were able to get another latch and fix it, so, it was only like a $10 Pista GP :smile2: Still though, it would be hard to go back to another helmet on track. I still have my K4 Evo, but the difference in aerodynamics between the two is unbelievable. Definitely worth the money in my opinion.

All the events at Chuckwalla sell out like 2 months in advance. Gotta plan early! I really hope I'll be able to get back out there this year, not sure how my budget for a new suit will look though. Fingers crossed!
 

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Sorry to hear you've spanked yourself up. Get well soon.

Had to comment as your bike has experienced the same issues mine had.

Mine was also a 2006 model and I had the temp sensor fail and the temp gauge show a couple of bars when clearly it was very hot from riding on track. I had it happen twice. Once was the ambient temperature gauge in the airbox the other time the temp sensor on the back of the cylinder block. It also had the effect of telling the ECU the bike was running cold and so it made the mixture richer. Consequently under about 8,000rom it ran rough and was jerky on the throttle exiting corners. Not nice.

The radiator fluid boiling over may not be connected with the temp sensor though. I had this also, in fact it's a common problem on these bikes from what I've read on here, and the general consensus is that there is air in the coolant. I made a small discovery when replacing the temp sensor on the cylinder block. Whilst everything was apart I took out the thermostat and checked it worked ok by putting it in boiling water. All OK. However whist it was apart I ordered a new one to replace it, just in case. When I got the new one it was identical to the OE one (same manufacturer) except for one small detail. There is a small 2 to 3mm bleed hole. On the OE one there is a ball bearing in the hole, but the new one did not have this ball bearing, just the hole.

My theory is that this ball bearing sticks when you refill the coolant and traps some air. You do have to ask why the replacement had no ball bearing. Anyway if you are ever in that area again I'd suggest removing the ball bearing. Once I did this I never had issues with air in the coolant. I think I posted a thread about it some time ago.
 
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